Type of paint for cabinets in garage

In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:

> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I was
> thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised panels
> made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned unless
> I am in there and then only a propane heater.
>
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color would
> be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from wood to
> cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like to
> attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and a
> craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the cup
> at the bottom.
>
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and paint
> peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door
> frames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended up
> peeling badly.
>
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking about.
>
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read it is
> prone to cracking, I don't know.
>
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

I'd use a tinted opaque polyurethane. I like General Finishes products,
stay away from anything Minwax. Had a client specify their Polyshades
product, and it is the demon spawn from hell, sprayed or brushed.

djb

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 at 7:31:26 AM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I=
was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised pan=
els made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned =
unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.
>=20
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color w=
ould be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from w=
ood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>=20
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like t=
o attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and a=
craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the c=
up at the bottom.
>=20
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and paint =
peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door fr=
ames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended up=
peeling badly.
>=20
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking abou=
t.
>=20
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read it =
is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>=20
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

Would you build them out of 2x4, mdf, frame and panel or what?

I build paint grade cabinets using soft maple instead of poplar. Its more s=
table and it looks and smells better. I dosn't cost much more. 3/4" D3 mapl=
e for carcasses and shelves, 1/2" baltic birch for drw boxes, 1/4" baltic b=
irch for drw bottoms and door panels. I usually build my doors and drawer b=
oxes first, even finish them. I store them out of the way while I assemble =
and finish the carcasses last. I usually talk the client into clear lacquer=
on drawer boxes and interiors when they want painted cabinets because I fi=
nd a good lacquer finish inside is easier to achieve than a flawless paint =
finish.



On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 at 7:31:26 AM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I=
was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised pan=
els made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned =
unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.
>=20
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color w=
ould be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from w=
ood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>=20
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like t=
o attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and a=
craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the c=
up at the bottom.
>=20
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and paint =
peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door fr=
ames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended up=
peeling badly.
>=20
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking abou=
t.
>=20
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read it =
is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>=20
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

<[email protected]> wrote:


I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached
garage. I was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames
with raised panels made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not
heated/air conditioned unless I am in there and then only a propane
heater.

I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark
color would be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with
everything from wood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.

I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would
like to attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air
compressor and a craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am
not sure. It has the cup at the bottom.

What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and
paint peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my
outdoor door frames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted
with enamel ended up peeling badly.

I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking
about.

What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read
it is prone to cracking, I don't know.

I appreciate any advice you can provide!
---------------------------------------------------------------
Plywood, poplar & MDF are good choices for shop cabinets.

I would forget about spraying, IMHO, this job is better suited to a
brush.

I'd buy a dozen 2" chip brushes and trash a brush when you are done
with it.

Trying to clean one is a waste of time IMHO.

I'd use Zinisser Cover Stain primer.

It's white, oil based, and does a great job. (You won't spray, but
could roller it it)

You can even buy it in California by the quart.

I'd prime the MDF panels completely, especially the edges, prior to
ass'y.

I'd prime the interiors after ass'y. White interiors get rid of the
dark cave
experience when you are searching for something.

Helps eliminate the flashlight in the mouth experience when looking
for
something. <G>

A final coat of your favorite water based floor and deck enamel on the
exterior surfaces, and it's time for a beer.

Have fun.

Lew

<[email protected]> wrote:

> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

Would you build them out of 2x4, mdf, frame and panel or what?
--------------------------------------------------------
If I were building shop/garage wall cabinets, I'd start here for the
doors:

Use rail & stile construction.

Make rails and stiles from 3/4" x 2" poplar.

Make the panels from 3/4" plywood.

You now have a cupboard door that is strong enough that you can
mount things on the inside surface.

If the plywood is not a full 3/4", you will need to run the 3/4" x 2"
poplar
thru the planer to match the plywood thickness.

Select some good hinges and paint per previous post.

Have fun.

Lew

<[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> > > I appreciate any advice you can provide!
>> >
>> > Would you build them out of 2x4, mdf, frame and panel or what?
--------------------------------------------------------

Lew Hodgett wrote:

> If I were building shop/garage wall cabinets, I'd start here for the
> doors:
>
> Use rail & stile construction.
>
> Make rails and stiles from 3/4" x 2" poplar.
>
> Make the panels from 3/4" plywood.
>
> You now have a cupboard door that is strong enough that you can
> mount things on the inside surface.
>
> If the plywood is not a full 3/4", you will need to run the 3/4" x
> 2"
> poplar
> thru the planer to match the plywood thickness.
>
> Select some good hinges and paint per previous post.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
----------------------------------------------


"woodchucker" wrote:

> Hell no.
>
> Rail and Stile and 1/2 ply. You don't need 3/4.
> 1/2 ply will allow you to mount things, you get enough purchase in
> 1/2
> And that's good enough. it will keep the weight down which keeps the
> doors aligned better.
>
> It's a lot less weight and a lot less $$ for 1/2.
>
> For the cabinet, 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply. You don't need much there as
> it is
> an vertical structure which will be plenty stong if built tight.
------------------------------------------
"dadiOH" wrote:
> Or, one could use 1/4", ply or masonite. Still lighter and cheaper
> and things can be easily mounted to it by fastening a piece of 1x2
> to the back with screws from the front.
-------------------------------------------
Didn't realize the design goal was to go cheap.

This is a garage/shop area, not a bathroom vanity or similar soft
application.

Guess that means 2" chip brushes and the cheapest primer are also in
play.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

>> Use rail & stile construction.
>>
>> Make rails and stiles from 3/4" x 2" poplar.
>>
>> Make the panels from 3/4" plywood.
>>
>> You now have a cupboard door that is strong enough that you can
>> mount things on the inside surface.
>>
>> If the plywood is not a full 3/4", you will need to run the 3/4" x
>> 2"
>> poplar thru the planer to match the plywood thickness.
------------------------------------------------------------
"John McCoy" wrote:

> I presume your intention here is to simply rabbet the plywood
> to fit the groove in the frame - as opposed to a bevel or any
> other sort of profile on the panel?
>
> If it were me, since these are shop cabinets, I wouldn't
> worry about matching the frame thickness to the panels. It
> won't hurt if the frame is 1/8th proud of the panel. If
> you really cared, offsetting the rabbets slightly would let
> the front face be flush.
>
> Actually, I'd probably go with thinner ply for the doors,
> to make them lighter and easier on the hinges. Unless the
> panels are huge, 1/2 or even 3/8th would be stiff enough
> to hold a rack of screwdrivers or whatever mounted on the
> inside
-------------------------------------------------------
The use of 3/4" ply panels turns the 2" poplar into little
more than edge banding, so having the ply and poplar the
same thickness has some merit, especially when mounting
hinges which allows 2" wide rather than 2-1/4" wide stock.

Using rail and stile construction eliminates mitered corners.

The ply panels are glued into the poplar frame.

As far as weight is concerned, 3/4" ply weighs about 2 lbs/sq ft.

An 18" wide x 30" tall panel would weigh less than 8 lbs.

Hardly anything to get excited about.

Since the poplar serves as edge banding, think of the door
as a top that is mounted vertically.

Yes you could use thinner panels, but why bother?

These are shop cabinets, not interior kitchen cabinets.

Strong like bull works for me.


Lew

On Friday, January 9, 2015 at 2:38:00 PM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote=
:
> I build paint grade cabinets using soft maple instead of poplar. Its more=
stable and it looks and smells better. I dosn't cost much more. 3/4" D3 ma=
ple for carcasses and shelves, 1/2" baltic birch for drw boxes, 1/4" baltic=
birch for drw bottoms and door panels. I usually build my doors and drawer=
boxes first, even finish them. I store them out of the way while I assembl=
e and finish the carcasses last. I usually talk the client into clear lacqu=
er on drawer boxes and interiors when they want painted cabinets because I =
find a good lacquer finish inside is easier to achieve than a flawless pain=
t finish.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 at 7:31:26 AM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> > I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage.=
I was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised p=
anels made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditione=
d unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.
> >=20
> > I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color=
would be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from=
wood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
> >=20
> > I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like=
to attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and=
a craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the=
cup at the bottom.
> >=20
> > What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and pain=
t peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door =
frames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended =
up peeling badly.
> >=20
> > I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking ab=
out.
> >=20
> > What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read i=
t is prone to cracking, I don't know.
> >=20
> > I appreciate any advice you can provide!

(use pre-cat lacquer)

I use pre-cat lacquer from Sherwin-Williams. Never had any cracking problem=
s. Its actually quite flexible. I use this Harbor Freight Sprayer for all m=
y jobs. http://www.harborfreight.com/professional-hvlp-spray-gun-kit-93305.=
html
I have several of them, I use them for contact cement, preservatives, shell=
ac, lacquer, oil base, and water based paints. I like to tell people I can =
shoot contact cement all over something, and the next day finish a grand pi=
ano with the same gun. I have several because I clean them to varying degre=
es. Lacquer dissolves fluid hoses in time, I replace them with 1/4" fuel li=
ne which only lasts a bit longer than the original hoses. Set your main reg=
ulator at about 70 psi, have another regulator at the gun set at about 10 o=
r so, fluid pressure at the cup 7-15 depending how thick your material is. =
Always strain your paint.
Recently, I have started thinning acrylic enamels with denatured alcohol be=
cause it drys faster than water. I used to insist on oil enamels, but they =
are making good quality acrylics now. The Manor Hall Interior/Exterior I me=
ntioned can be sanded with 320 in a few hours without pilling and polished =
to a high degree after a day.
Using water base acrylic paint, a sealer is really important because the wa=
ter will keep raising the grain even after repeated sandings. White pigment=
ed shellac is still the finest base coat money can buy. Thin with denatured=
alcohol and clean up with ammonia. It is sandable in half an hour. Don't w=
orry if you can still see the grain through the sealer, you don't want a bu=
ild up of the shellac, just enough to seal and stabilize the wood fibers so=
they will stand up to being cut down leveled with sandpaper.=20
=20



n Tuesday, January 6, 2015 at 7:31:26 AM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I=
was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised pan=
els made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned =
unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.
>=20
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color w=
ould be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from w=
ood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>=20
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like t=
o attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and a=
craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the c=
up at the bottom.
>=20
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and paint =
peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door fr=
ames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended up=
peeling badly.
>=20
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking abou=
t.
>=20
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read it =
is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>=20
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 5:31:26 AM UTC-8, [email protected] wrote:
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I=
was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised pan=
els made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned =
unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.

Go with plywood or plywood panels; your humidity and temperature changes (c=
an cause
condensation) will not be kind to mdf. A washable finish is good, which m=
eans you
want gloss paint (or enamel), and it won't stick well or hide the woodgrain=
unless you
start with some primer.

Face frames with poplar are a good idea; plywood painted edges are a nuisan=
ce
to hide, and an annoyance if revealed.

Also the standard for door rails and stiles is 2 1/4". 2" would be too narr=
ow, especially if you are using european hinges.



On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 at 7:31:26 AM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I=
was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised pan=
els made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned =
unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.
>=20
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color w=
ould be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from w=
ood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>=20
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like t=
o attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and a=
craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the c=
up at the bottom.
>=20
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and paint =
peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door fr=
ames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended up=
peeling badly.
>=20
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking abou=
t.
>=20
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read it =
is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>=20
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

I'd use 1/4" plywood flat panels- no MDF. Spray with White pigmented shella=
c (BIN), clean equipment with ammonia and water. Give cabs a quick sanding =
with 150 or so. Spray 2 coats of Manor Hall Interior/Exterior 100% acrylic =
enamel minimally thinned with denatured alcohol. Done.=20


On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 7:31:26 AM UTC-6, [email protected] wrote:
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I=
was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised pan=
els made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned =
unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.
>=20
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color w=
ould be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from w=
ood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>=20
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like t=
o attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and a=
craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the c=
up at the bottom.
>=20
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and paint =
peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door fr=
ames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended up=
peeling badly.
>=20
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking abou=
t.
>=20
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read it =
is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>=20
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:54af5caf$0$11351
[email protected]:

> Use rail & stile construction.
>
> Make rails and stiles from 3/4" x 2" poplar.
>
> Make the panels from 3/4" plywood.
>
> You now have a cupboard door that is strong enough that you can
> mount things on the inside surface.
>
> If the plywood is not a full 3/4", you will need to run the 3/4" x 2"
> poplar thru the planer to match the plywood thickness.

I presume your intention here is to simply rabbet the plywood
to fit the groove in the frame - as opposed to a bevel or any
other sort of profile on the panel?

If it were me, since these are shop cabinets, I wouldn't
worry about matching the frame thickness to the panels. It
won't hurt if the frame is 1/8th proud of the panel. If
you really cared, offsetting the rabbets slightly would let
the front face be flush.

Actually, I'd probably go with thinner ply for the doors,
to make them lighter and easier on the hinges. Unless the
panels are huge, 1/2 or even 3/8th would be stiff enough
to hold a rack of screwdrivers or whatever mounted on the
inside

John

"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:54b1b26f$0$42944
[email protected]:

> The use of 3/4" ply panels turns the 2" poplar into little
> more than edge banding, so having the ply and poplar the
> same thickness has some merit, especially when mounting
> hinges which allows 2" wide rather than 2-1/4" wide stock.
>
> Using rail and stile construction eliminates mitered corners.
>
> The ply panels are glued into the poplar frame.

> Since the poplar serves as edge banding, think of the door
> as a top that is mounted vertically.

Ah, I see what you're thinking. I think, if I wasn't going
to float the panel, I would simply edge-band it with poplar
(or whatever hardwood was handy, since it'll be painted),
thick enough to hold the hinge screws but no more. I would
miter it, altho as you say since the banding isn't structural
it could just be butted.

Well, stryped should certainly have plenty of different ideas
on how to solve his problem now :-)

John

On 1/9/2015 7:48 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I appreciate any advice you can provide!
>>>>
>>>> Would you build them out of 2x4, mdf, frame and panel or what?
> --------------------------------------------------------
>
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> If I were building shop/garage wall cabinets, I'd start here for the
>> doors:
>>
>> Use rail & stile construction.
>>
>> Make rails and stiles from 3/4" x 2" poplar.
>>
>> Make the panels from 3/4" plywood.
>>
>> You now have a cupboard door that is strong enough that you can
>> mount things on the inside surface.
>>
>> If the plywood is not a full 3/4", you will need to run the 3/4" x
>> 2"
>> poplar
>> thru the planer to match the plywood thickness.
>>
>> Select some good hinges and paint per previous post.
>>
>> Have fun.
>>
>> Lew
> ----------------------------------------------
>
>
> "woodchucker" wrote:
>
>> Hell no.
>>
>> Rail and Stile and 1/2 ply. You don't need 3/4.
>> 1/2 ply will allow you to mount things, you get enough purchase in
>> 1/2
>> And that's good enough. it will keep the weight down which keeps the
>> doors aligned better.
>>
>> It's a lot less weight and a lot less $$ for 1/2.
>>
>> For the cabinet, 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply. You don't need much there as
>> it is
>> an vertical structure which will be plenty stong if built tight.
> ------------------------------------------
> "dadiOH" wrote:
>> Or, one could use 1/4", ply or masonite. Still lighter and cheaper
>> and things can be easily mounted to it by fastening a piece of 1x2
>> to the back with screws from the front.
> -------------------------------------------
> Didn't realize the design goal was to go cheap.
>
> This is a garage/shop area, not a bathroom vanity or similar soft
> application.
>
> Guess that means 2" chip brushes and the cheapest primer are also in
> play.
>
> Lew
>
>
>
Again, chip brushes are not painting brushes. They are used for removing
chips on machinery. They don't hold enough paint.

--
Jeff

On 1/6/2015 8:31 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached garage. I was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames with raised panels made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not heated/air conditioned unless I am in there and then only a propane heater.
>
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark color would be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with everything from wood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would like to attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air compressor and a craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am not sure. It has the cup at the bottom.
>
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and paint peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my outdoor door frames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted with enamel ended up peeling badly.
>
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking about.
>
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read it is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!
>

Did you prime the wood before you painted with enamel?
paint requires primer, it's what makes that really good bond.

Latex would work well,
enamel, just make sure you prime.


--
Jeff

[email protected] wrote:

>
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would
> like to attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air
> compressor and a craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am
> not sure. It has the cup at the bottom.
>
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and
> paint peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my
> outdoor door frames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted
> with enamel ended up peeling badly.
>
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking
> about.

I would probably paint them with latex, but likely you won't be able to
shoot it through your gun.

>
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read
> it is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>

Lacquer would probably work fine and it will spray through your gun, I
probably just brush on latex and wish them well.


--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Tue, 6 Jan 2015 05:31:21 -0800 (PST)
[email protected] wrote:

>
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and

I'd use whatever I have if it's enough. Then I'd go to look for
people giving away paint, then I'd buy some if all else failedd.

> I appreciate any advice you can provide!

This just what I'd do.

"woodchucker" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> On 1/8/2015 11:44 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > I appreciate any advice you can provide!
> >
> > Would you build them out of 2x4, mdf, frame and panel or what?
> > --------------------------------------------------------
> > If I were building shop/garage wall cabinets, I'd start here for the
> > doors:
> >
> > Use rail & stile construction.
> >
> > Make rails and stiles from 3/4" x 2" poplar.
> >
> > Make the panels from 3/4" plywood.
> >
> > You now have a cupboard door that is strong enough that you can
> > mount things on the inside surface.
> >
> > If the plywood is not a full 3/4", you will need to run the 3/4" x 2"
> > poplar
> > thru the planer to match the plywood thickness.
> >
> > Select some good hinges and paint per previous post.
> >
> > Have fun.
> >
> > Lew
> >
> >
>
> Hell no.
>
> Rail and Stile and 1/2 ply. You don't need 3/4.
> 1/2 ply will allow you to mount things, you get enough purchase in 1/2
> And that's good enough. it will keep the weight down which keeps the
> doors aligned better.
>
> It's a lot less weight and a lot less $$ for 1/2.
>
> For the cabinet, 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply. You don't need much there as it is
> an vertical structure which will be plenty stong if built tight.

Or, one could use 1/4", ply or masonite. Still lighter and cheaper and
things can be easily mounted to it by fastening a piece of 1x2 to the back
with screws from the front.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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On 1/8/2015 11:44 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I appreciate any advice you can provide!
>
> Would you build them out of 2x4, mdf, frame and panel or what?
> --------------------------------------------------------
> If I were building shop/garage wall cabinets, I'd start here for the
> doors:
>
> Use rail & stile construction.
>
> Make rails and stiles from 3/4" x 2" poplar.
>
> Make the panels from 3/4" plywood.
>
> You now have a cupboard door that is strong enough that you can
> mount things on the inside surface.
>
> If the plywood is not a full 3/4", you will need to run the 3/4" x 2"
> poplar
> thru the planer to match the plywood thickness.
>
> Select some good hinges and paint per previous post.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>

Hell no.

Rail and Stile and 1/2 ply. You don't need 3/4.
1/2 ply will allow you to mount things, you get enough purchase in 1/2
And that's good enough. it will keep the weight down which keeps the
doors aligned better.

It's a lot less weight and a lot less $$ for 1/2.

For the cabinet, 1/2 or 3/4 inch ply. You don't need much there as it is
an vertical structure which will be plenty stong if built tight.

Don't over build it, and don't underbuild it. Build it right.

it's not hard to put together carcasses.

--
Jeff

On 1/6/2015 6:02 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> I have been thinking of making several cabinets for my detached
> garage. I was thinking plywood carcass, but maybe poplar face frames
> with raised panels made out of mdf. The garage is insulted but not
> heated/air conditioned unless I am in there and then only a propane
> heater.
>
> I need to make several of them and I figured painting them a dark
> color would be best as they will probably get dirty. I work with
> everything from wood to cars. My shop is a 30x30.
>
> I want them to look nice, but I also want them to hold up. I would
> like to attempt to paint them with a sprayer. I have a large air
> compressor and a craftsman gun which may be siphon fed or HVLP, I am
> not sure. It has the cup at the bottom.
>
> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and
> paint peeling. When I built the house around 97, I painted all my
> outdoor door frames with enamel. Every single piece of wood I painted
> with enamel ended up peeling badly.
>
> I am not sure I can spray latex through the sort of gun I am talking
> about.
>
> What about laquer? I have never worked with it. It seems maybe I read
> it is prone to cracking, I don't know.
>
> I appreciate any advice you can provide!
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> Plywood, poplar & MDF are good choices for shop cabinets.
>
> I would forget about spraying, IMHO, this job is better suited to a
> brush.
>
> I'd buy a dozen 2" chip brushes and trash a brush when you are done
> with it.
>
> Trying to clean one is a waste of time IMHO.
>
> I'd use Zinisser Cover Stain primer.
>
> It's white, oil based, and does a great job. (You won't spray, but
> could roller it it)
>
> You can even buy it in California by the quart.
>
> I'd prime the MDF panels completely, especially the edges, prior to
> ass'y.
>
> I'd prime the interiors after ass'y. White interiors get rid of the
> dark cave
> experience when you are searching for something.
>
> Helps eliminate the flashlight in the mouth experience when looking
> for
> something. <G>
>
> A final coat of your favorite water based floor and deck enamel on the
> exterior surfaces, and it's time for a beer.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
I would never use chip brushes for painting something you want to look
good. They don't hold enough paint to wet out correctly.

Get the best quality brush, and clean it. I have my purdy for years,
it's better when it ages then when it's new. But then it falls off the
cliff and needs replacing.

--
Jeff

On 1/7/2015 1:14 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Tue, 6 Jan 2015 05:31:21 -0800 (PST)
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>>
>> What kind of paint would you use? I am concerned with humidity and
>
> I'd use whatever I have if it's enough. Then I'd go to look for
> people giving away paint, then I'd buy some if all else failedd.
>
>> I appreciate any advice you can provide!
>
> This just what I'd do.
>
>

If you have a Habitat for Humanity Restore in your area you can usually
get paint there for cheap.