I am in process of making a large sled (8' x 3') for tablesaw. There I
routed (3/4" wide and 3/8" deep) slots for 6 t-tracks. For the first two, I
did use epoxy, but the mixing was messy and it was not convinient to apply.
For the last four, I did try polyurethane - even after reading the
instructions that it will expand when curing. I was thinking that the extra
pressure would be just good for a tighter grip.
To my surprise, the tight seams started to foam after 60 minutes from gluing
and screwing. The polyurethane was easy to apply, but I am not sure how
strong the bond will be. The epoxy should be ok.
I was even considering to use Titebond II or III for that purpose. My
conceren there is that the glue needs air to cure and it is not given that
Titebond will stick in the glue grooves of the t-track.
What are your experiences with
- Epoxy
- Polyurethane
- Titebond
- Gorilla
- others
Recommendations?
Cheers, Ollie
"Ollie" <Olivili at Hot Mail dot com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kevin,
>
> There are quite a many variants of Liquid Nails and Perfect Glue. Which
> type you have been using?
>
> Do you know what are the main ingredient in the glue? Is there a tight
> bond between aluminum and plywood?
>
> Cheers, Ollie
I just found the container behind some shelves in the storage shed about two
weeks ago and threw it away because it's so old. I have to go by the borg
tomorrow, I'll find it and let you know what it was. It's in a brownish
gold tube.
As far as holding strength, the track is Liquid Nailed and screwed and I can't
really say much other than it doesn't budge. I was thinking about it after
I replied, and I might have read about the Liquid Nails for miter trace in
one of the many router books I have, they all have the obligatory "build
your own router table" chapter.
Kevin in Bakersfield
I used polyurethane on mine (Gorilla) and it seems to be holding just
fine.
On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 19:30:52 GMT, "Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Ollie" <Olivili at Hot Mail dot com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Kevin,
>>
>> There are quite a many variants of Liquid Nails and Perfect Glue. Which
>> type you have been using?
>>
>> Do you know what are the main ingredient in the glue? Is there a tight
>> bond between aluminum and plywood?
>>
>> Cheers, Ollie
>
>Ollie, I think I used the Project type:
>http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-601.html I see they have a Steel
>and Metal Frame type that is recommended for Steel and Aluminum to wood
>surfaces http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-925.html
>
>Kevin in Bakersfield
>
When gluing metal it is important to ensure the surface is clean and free of
residue. Ideally the surface has been slightly roughened to aid in the glue
adhering. Perfectly smooth aluminium can be hard to achieve a good bond.
The epoxy should work. Polyurethane is the same as Gorilla glue. The
reason this foams is the moisture in the wood. This should also work, but
you need to ensure the track is clamped down along the length, otherwise you
will find an unpleasant bow due to the expansion.
I would not expect Titebond to work for metal. It does not really bond and
when the metal contracts in cold could break free.
I expect adhesive caulk would work also fine without expansion pressures.
I have also recently purchased the new hot melt glue HiPerformer or some
similar name. Works well as long as you do not need a long working time.
It is also expensire.
Dave Paine.
"Ollie" <Olivili at Hot Mail dot com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am in process of making a large sled (8' x 3') for tablesaw. There I
> routed (3/4" wide and 3/8" deep) slots for 6 t-tracks. For the first two,
I
> did use epoxy, but the mixing was messy and it was not convinient to
apply.
> For the last four, I did try polyurethane - even after reading the
> instructions that it will expand when curing. I was thinking that the
extra
> pressure would be just good for a tighter grip.
>
> To my surprise, the tight seams started to foam after 60 minutes from
gluing
> and screwing. The polyurethane was easy to apply, but I am not sure how
> strong the bond will be. The epoxy should be ok.
>
> I was even considering to use Titebond II or III for that purpose. My
> conceren there is that the glue needs air to cure and it is not given that
> Titebond will stick in the glue grooves of the t-track.
>
> What are your experiences with
> - Epoxy
> - Polyurethane
> - Titebond
> - Gorilla
> - others
>
> Recommendations?
>
> Cheers, Ollie
>
>
"Ollie" <Olivili at Hot Mail dot com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Kevin,
>
> There are quite a many variants of Liquid Nails and Perfect Glue. Which
> type you have been using?
>
> Do you know what are the main ingredient in the glue? Is there a tight
> bond between aluminum and plywood?
>
> Cheers, Ollie
Ollie, I think I used the Project type:
http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-601.html I see they have a Steel
and Metal Frame type that is recommended for Steel and Aluminum to wood
surfaces http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-925.html
Kevin in Bakersfield
Kevin,
There are quite a many variants of Liquid Nails and Perfect Glue. Which
type you have been using?
Do you know what are the main ingredient in the glue? Is there a tight bond
between aluminum and plywood?
Cheers, Ollie
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Someone recommended Liquid nails to me and I used it on the miter track on
> my router table. It's been about 2 years I guess and it's still holding.
> I use feather boards that expand in the miter, so it does get use.
>
> Kevin in Bakersfield
>
>
>
"Ollie" <Olivili at Hot Mail dot com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am in process of making a large sled (8' x 3') for tablesaw. There I
>routed (3/4" wide and 3/8" deep) slots for 6 t-tracks. For the first two,
>I did use epoxy, but the mixing was messy and it was not convinient to
>apply. For the last four, I did try polyurethane - even after reading the
>instructions that it will expand when curing. I was thinking that the
>extra pressure would be just good for a tighter grip.
>
> To my surprise, the tight seams started to foam after 60 minutes from
> gluing and screwing. The polyurethane was easy to apply, but I am not
> sure how strong the bond will be. The epoxy should be ok.
>
> I was even considering to use Titebond II or III for that purpose. My
> conceren there is that the glue needs air to cure and it is not given that
> Titebond will stick in the glue grooves of the t-track.
>
> What are your experiences with
> - Epoxy
> - Polyurethane
> - Titebond
> - Gorilla
> - others
>
> Recommendations?
Someone recommended Liquid nails to me and I used it on the miter track on
my router table. It's been about 2 years I guess and it's still holding. I
use feather boards that expand in the miter, so it does get use.
Kevin in Bakersfield
Kevin,
Those two look like they are intended for construction projects. Perhaps I
could try them in my furniture projects based on your positive experience.
Cheers, Ollie
"Kevin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Ollie, I think I used the Project type:
> http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-601.html I see they have a Steel
> and Metal Frame type that is recommended for Steel and Aluminum to wood
> surfaces http://www.liquidnails.com/adhesives/ln-925.html
>
> Kevin in Bakersfield
>
>
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 18:43:52 -0500, "Ollie" <Olivili at Hot Mail dot
com> wrote:
>Recommendations?
Gorilla is another polyurethane.
Even though epoxy has to be mixed, I've got a lot of experience with
it (read as "I HAVE SOME IN THE SHOP" <G>), so it's what I'd probably
use.
I'd actually use screws instead of any adhesive, if possible.
I wouldn't get too worried about the Poly-U, as I've built several
giant scale model aircraft using it for dissimilar surfaces, it held
up[ very well. The planes are subject to some interesting stresses,
and vibrations, and the Poly-U never failed.
Barry
Only one real choice, epoxy. It is not the most convenient or
easiest, but is the best bond for this type application. Tape over
the screw holes and with a good tight dado you just need a THIN layer
of epoxy in the dado. Clamp securely, and I personally put the screws
in AFTER the epoxy has cured In fact, a squirt of epoxy between the
screw holes probably is all you need. If you over do the epoxy, be
sure to wipe up any squeeze out and DON'T let it get into the t-track
itself - it is a real PITA to get out and if you don't you will have
places where the bolt head will NOT traverse
Polyurethane and Gorilla are the same basic type - no real difference
other than brand names and prices. TiteBond is NOT going to do well
as to adhering to aluminum Not the worst choice for this application,
but epoxy will be stronger.
Hide glue, forget it.
John
On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 18:43:52 -0500, "Ollie" <Olivili at Hot Mail dot
com> wrote:
>I am in process of making a large sled (8' x 3') for tablesaw. There I
>routed (3/4" wide and 3/8" deep) slots for 6 t-tracks. For the first two, I
>did use epoxy, but the mixing was messy and it was not convinient to apply.
>For the last four, I did try polyurethane - even after reading the
>instructions that it will expand when curing. I was thinking that the extra
>pressure would be just good for a tighter grip.
>
>To my surprise, the tight seams started to foam after 60 minutes from gluing
>and screwing. The polyurethane was easy to apply, but I am not sure how
>strong the bond will be. The epoxy should be ok.
>
>I was even considering to use Titebond II or III for that purpose. My
>conceren there is that the glue needs air to cure and it is not given that
>Titebond will stick in the glue grooves of the t-track.
>
>What are your experiences with
>- Epoxy
>- Polyurethane
>- Titebond
>- Gorilla
>- others
>
>Recommendations?
>
>Cheers, Ollie
>