If you want to use a hard finish on top of the oil ,you will only need 1
coat of the oil the get the irradiance affect wait a week or two light sand
with 300 or so then apply top coat .I use Poly top coat .
Rusty
"Leonard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I just finished a cherry piece, have put watco Danish oil on (several
>coats) what top coat would you guys recommend?
>
> Len
>
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 18:59:16 -0400, "Leonard"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I just finished a cherry piece, have put watco Danish oil on (several
>>coats)
>>what top coat would you guys recommend?
>>
>>Len
>>
>
>
> Let the Danish oil completely cure, and then wait 2 more weeks. Use
> #0000 steel wool and Johnsons Paste wax, wait 10 minutes, and buff.
> Reapply wax every 6 months and buff.
The reason being that a hard, film finish over the softer oil finish will
crack, split, and lift. A wax finish will finish it nicely for a satin
finish.
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 18:59:16 -0400, "Leonard"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just finished a cherry piece, have put watco Danish oil on (several coats)
>what top coat would you guys recommend?
>
>Len
>
Let the Danish oil completely cure, and then wait 2 more weeks. Use
#0000 steel wool and Johnsons Paste wax, wait 10 minutes, and buff.
Reapply wax every 6 months and buff.
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 18:59:16 -0400, "Leonard" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I just finished a cherry piece, have put watco Danish oil on (several coats)
>what top coat would you guys recommend?
>
>Len
>
Can't speak for flat work, but on my turnings, I let the Watco cure for 3 or 4
days and then buff with the Beall system..
In 3 or 4 years, I haven't had bad results yet, IF I let the oil cure..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
On Sat, 25 Oct 2008 18:59:16 -0400, "Leonard"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I just finished a cherry piece, have put watco Danish oil on (several coats)
>what top coat would you guys recommend?
>
>Len
>
What factors normally guide your selection of a topcoat? Appearance,
durability, protection, etc? You should be taking those into account.
As noted by others, Danish oil is used as a complete finish and can
look quite good. It doesn't offer much protection, but some pieces
don't need more.
If you wait for the Danish oil to completely cure, then apply a
washcoat of dewaxed shellac (blond if you don't want to change the
color), you can use whatever topcoat you wish. I use shellac as a
finish coat on anything that I can get away with, since it is easy to
apply (I typically pad it on) and easy to repair and looks good and is
pretty inexpensive (I mix fresh from flakes).
I probably wouldn't use shellac as a topcoat on a table top but I have
used it on a dresser, chairs, etc. and it seems to be holding up
pretty well.
>> Jim
Leonard wrote:
> I just finished a cherry piece, have put watco Danish oil on (several
> coats) what top coat would you guys recommend?
>
> Len
I've had good luck with Watco Wipe-on poly over Danish oil. Don't know
about Watco Danish, I've always used Mosers (from Woodworkers Supply of NM)
--
If you're going to be dumb, you better be tough