Hi,
Novice woodworker here, please help!
I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or metal
stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
secure it all together.
I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
shelves = 24 dowels).
I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked it.
I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks to all!
Marc
steel washers are sold by size. The size is the internal diameter x the
external diameter. The sizes are common, like 1/2 x 1/4. 1x3/8", etc.
Therefore, there aren't that many really. There are diff. types, and a few
thicknesses, heavy duty thickness,etc. Its often not hard to match the ID
to thedrill you are using. You could clamp a washer(s) to the end of the
dowel and use it as a guide bushing, or buy a guide bushing, or cut a pipe
of tube/pipe to do same. You could go from both ends. Then wriggle through
with a long bit, maybe auger.
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anohter thing that comes about by knowing this is that you can take a 1/2 x
1/4" washer and use it as an offset to scribe a line along a straight edge,
or profile to get an exact 1/8" offset line. Just put a pencil in the
center and swirl away. The offset is limited only by the eqn: 1/2(OD- ID)
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M C wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Novice woodworker here, please help!
>
> I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
> vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or metal
> stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
> secure it all together.
>
> I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
> complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
> shelves = 24 dowels).
>
> I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
> successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked it.
> I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>
> I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
> stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>
> How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>
> Any help would be much appreciated!
>
> Thanks to all!
>
> Marc
I think your design is questionable. Running a steel rod through the
middle of the dowels probably won't add THAT much extra rigidity to the
whole piece. You will still need to brace the unit (probably at the
back) in some fashion. You would be better off using a 35 mm spade or
forstner bit and drilling "through holes" in each corner of the shelves
and then sliding one whole-length dowel through all the holes in each
corner. Secure the dowels to each shelf with glue and one chunky screw
entering the dowel from the front and one from the side with a
countersink that you can plug or fill. Make sure the fit of the dowels
through the shelves is snug.
FoggyTown
"M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi,
>
> Novice woodworker here, please help!
>
> I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
> vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or
> metal stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as
> to secure it all together.
>
> I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
> complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x
> 6 shelves = 24 dowels).
>
> I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
> successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked
> it. I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>
> I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
> stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>
> How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>
> Any help would be much appreciated!
>
> Thanks to all!
>
> Marc
How long are the dowels?
Howdy!
In article <[email protected]>,
M C <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Novice woodworker here, please help!
>
>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or metal
>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
>secure it all together.
>
>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
>shelves = 24 dowels).
>
>I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
>successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked it.
>I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>
>I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
>stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>
>How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>
You have bit off a "hard" problem. Even with a drill press, getting
the holes to be perfectly centered at both ends is going to be
a chore. Be prepared to toss as many rejects as clean ones.
I don't see how you can get where you want to go with the tools you
have.
One approach would be to take pieces of wood 35mm x 18mm. Use a router
to scoop out an 8mm groove (semi-circular) down the middle. Glue two
pieces of this together. You now have an 8mm hole straight and centered.
Cut pieces to length, and run that 8mm drill down the hole to clean
out glue squeeze-out and any irregularities. Now you need a lathe to
make the outside cylindrical
No, I didn't say it would be simple.
yours,
Michael
--
Michael and MJ Houghton | Herveus d'Ormonde and Megan O'Donnelly
[email protected] | White Wolf and the Phoenix narrowwares
Bowie, MD, USA | http://whitewolfandphoenix.com
Proud member of the SCA Internet Whitewash Squad
"M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The dowels will be cut down to something between 14 to 16cm in length,
> which will then obviously equal the spacing between a pair of shelves.
>
> Marc
>
This is what I would do.
Make a box that surrounds the dowel snugly. Make it out of ply, 1x's,
whatever, but make sure to use the same material for all sides so the sides
are of consistent thickness.
[O]
cut a piece of 3/4" ply and affix it to the top of the box. Make sure the
edges meet up with the sides of your box. Drill a hole in the center of the
top piece, this should also be the center of your dowel. the 3/4 top board
will guide your hand held drill bit to keep it straight. After drilling as
far as you can (you should use a fairly long bit), take the dowel out and
turn it over, drill into the other side.
viola.
In article <[email protected]>, M C
<mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote:
> How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ?
Short answer: You can't. Find another solution.
djb
On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:28:59 GMT, "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com>
wrote:
>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
>shelves = 24 dowels).
Gouge out with a router round-end, using table and guiding jig, the
length of some squared wood. Cut in half and clamp/glue halves
together [carefully, of course.] Cut/shape the finished product. I'd
leave square.
Sorry, should have mentioned that. The dowels and therefore the spacing
between the shelves will be approx 14 - 16cm each. Each set may vary so as
to give greater shelf height but not significantly. The plan is my own
design but part based on the Quadraspire unit that can be bought for a lot
of money. The Quadraspire is modular and uses metal supports. Have a look
at their website if you're interested. I thought dowels would be easier for
me to fabricate as an alternative, larger seemed better to drill and more
chunky so that's why I went for the 35mm dia.
Thanks again for all your help!
Marc
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:28:59 GMT, "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com>
> wrote:
>
> Perfect?
> A laser in the correct laboratory environment might be able to do it...
>
> As others have said, your design seems to far exceed your tools... most of
> us
> use that as an excuse to buy more tools.. *g*
>
> Are you working from a set of plans, or is this your own design?
> If you could provide some dimensions, such as the length of the dowels or
> the
> space between shelves, that would make helping you easier....
>
> EXAMPLE: a 30 mm long dowel has much less complications and room for error
> that
> a 300mm long dowel..
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>Novice woodworker here, please help!
>>
>>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
>>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or
>>metal
>>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
>>secure it all together.
>>
>>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x
>>6
>>shelves = 24 dowels).
>>
>>I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
>>successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked
>>it.
>>I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>>
>>I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
>>stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>>
>>How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>>
>>Any help would be much appreciated!
>>
>>Thanks to all!
>>
>>Marc
>>
>
> Mac
>
> https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
> https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
Hi,
There has been a whole lot of good suggestions given as methods to
complete your project. And I personally would use one or more of those
suggestions.
However, If you are determined to center drill dowels, then you need two
things, 1) a jig to hold the dowel perfectly straight in line with the
drill bit,with the dowel centered under the drill bit, this you would
have to build yourself. 2) What not one of these fine gentlemen has
said yet, and that is that you would need a "D" drill, or as they are
sometimes called a "Gun Drill" as this is the only type of drill that
will drill a perfectly straight hole without following the grain of the
wood. A twist drill will never drill a straight hole through a dowel
length.
I usually make my own "D" drills when I need to drill center holes in
dowels, like when I have to have one dowel turning inside of a larger
dowel, in a clock movement. Since you will only be drilling a relative
few, so you will not need high quality metal for the drill. any rod of
the right diameter will work. I have even used a piece of wire.
==============================
From Google grouprec_crafts_woodturning.htm
My favorite long drill bit is the D bit. This is an easy grind, no
more complicated than "fixing" the horrible shape on most roughing
gouges.
Here's some basic grinding instructions from Michael T Averill
<[email protected]>. This has to be viewed in a fixed width
font.
---------- begin quote
---------------------------------------------------
The profile is as follows ( best I can do in a text document).
|--------------------
|
\------------------ Side View
\______________________________________
Exactly half the diameter is removed for a distance of about 1 inch.
/--------------|------------------
/ |
/ | Top View
\________________|__________________
The point is one quarter of the diameter in from side. Angles used are
similar to those shown.
In use withdraw the bit frequently to clear chips and when it gets hot
stop and let it cool down. Finally don't force it, let it cut at it's
own rate. With care a hole 1/8" diameter hole 18" long can be bored
without an noticeable wander. The finnish on the bores is excellent.
===============================
If that will help anyone.
Jack
M C wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Novice woodworker here, please help!
>
> I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
> vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or metal
> stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
> secure it all together.
>
> I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
> complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
> shelves = 24 dowels).
>
> I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
> successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked it.
> I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>
> I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
> stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>
> How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>
> Any help would be much appreciated!
>
> Thanks to all!
>
> Marc
>
>
I know this is a woodworking group, but how about using metal tubing instead
of dowels? You can get nice looking metal tubing at the home stores over
with the ceiling fans. Cut it so size with a pipe cutter, run a length of
threaded rod through the tubes and shelves in each corner and you're done. I
have a bookshelf made like this and it's held together fine for almost 15
years so far.
In article <[email protected]>, mcarney@*NO-
SPAM*mail15.com says...
> Sorry, should have mentioned that. The dowels and therefore the spacing
> between the shelves will be approx 14 - 16cm each. Each set may vary so as
> to give greater shelf height but not significantly. The plan is my own
> design but part based on the Quadraspire unit that can be bought for a lot
> of money. The Quadraspire is modular and uses metal supports. Have a look
> at their website if you're interested. I thought dowels would be easier for
> me to fabricate as an alternative, larger seemed better to drill and more
> chunky so that's why I went for the 35mm dia.
>
> Thanks again for all your help!
>
> Marc
>
>
>
>
>
> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:28:59 GMT, "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > Perfect?
> > A laser in the correct laboratory environment might be able to do it...
> >
> > As others have said, your design seems to far exceed your tools... most of
> > us
> > use that as an excuse to buy more tools.. *g*
> >
> > Are you working from a set of plans, or is this your own design?
> > If you could provide some dimensions, such as the length of the dowels or
> > the
> > space between shelves, that would make helping you easier....
> >
> > EXAMPLE: a 30 mm long dowel has much less complications and room for error
> > that
> > a 300mm long dowel..
> >
> >>Hi,
> >>
> >>Novice woodworker here, please help!
> >>
> >>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
> >>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or
> >>metal
> >>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
> >>secure it all together.
> >>
> >>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
> >>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x
The bookcase I have has shallow holes drilled top and bottom in each corner
of each shelf. they are the same diameter as the outside of the pipe and
about 1/8 inch deep. In the center of this depression, a hole the diameter
of the threaded rod is drilled that goes all the way through the shelf. The
shallow holes keep the tubing in place, and the holes through the shelves
keep the threaded rod centered.
In article <[email protected]>, mcarney@*NO-
SPAM*mail15.com says...
> Thanks for the feedback. I can understand what you say and I will
> investigate your idea.
>
> I am thinking of what you said, with washers and bolts inside to keep the
> outer pip equidistant from the threaded rod inside. I've not got a pipe
> cutter so will need to price one up.
>
> Thanks
>
> Marc
>
>
>
> "justme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I know this is a woodworking group, but how about using metal tubing
> >instead
> > of dowels? You can get nice looking metal tubing at the home stores over
> > with the ceiling fans. Cut it so size with a pipe cutter, run a length of
> > threaded rod through the tubes and shelves in each corner and you're done.
> > I
> > have a bookshelf made like this and it's held together fine for almost 15
> > years so far.
> >
> > In article <[email protected]>, mcarney@*NO-
> > SPAM*mail15.com says...
> >> Sorry, should have mentioned that. The dowels and therefore the spacing
> >> between the shelves will be approx 14 - 16cm each. Each set may vary so
> >> as
> >> to give greater shelf height but not significantly. The plan is my own
> >> design but part based on the Quadraspire unit that can be bought for a
> >> lot
> >> of money. The Quadraspire is modular and uses metal supports. Have a
> >> look
> >> at their website if you're interested. I thought dowels would be easier
> >> for
> >> me to fabricate as an alternative, larger seemed better to drill and more
> >> chunky so that's why I went for the 35mm dia.
> >>
> >> Thanks again for all your help!
> >>
> >> Marc
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >> > On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:28:59 GMT, "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com>
The dowels will be cut down to something between 14 to 16cm in length, which
will then obviously equal the spacing between a pair of shelves.
Marc
"Locutus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi,
>>
>> Novice woodworker here, please help!
>>
>> I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as
>> the vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels
>> (or metal stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner
>> so as to secure it all together.
>>
>> I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>> complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x
>> 6 shelves = 24 dowels).
>>
>> I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
>> successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked
>> it. I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>>
>> I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
>> stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>>
>> How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>>
>> Any help would be much appreciated!
>>
>> Thanks to all!
>>
>> Marc
>
> How long are the dowels?
>
Thanks for the feedback. I can understand what you say and I will
investigate your idea.
I am thinking of what you said, with washers and bolts inside to keep the
outer pip equidistant from the threaded rod inside. I've not got a pipe
cutter so will need to price one up.
Thanks
Marc
"justme" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I know this is a woodworking group, but how about using metal tubing
>instead
> of dowels? You can get nice looking metal tubing at the home stores over
> with the ceiling fans. Cut it so size with a pipe cutter, run a length of
> threaded rod through the tubes and shelves in each corner and you're done.
> I
> have a bookshelf made like this and it's held together fine for almost 15
> years so far.
>
> In article <[email protected]>, mcarney@*NO-
> SPAM*mail15.com says...
>> Sorry, should have mentioned that. The dowels and therefore the spacing
>> between the shelves will be approx 14 - 16cm each. Each set may vary so
>> as
>> to give greater shelf height but not significantly. The plan is my own
>> design but part based on the Quadraspire unit that can be bought for a
>> lot
>> of money. The Quadraspire is modular and uses metal supports. Have a
>> look
>> at their website if you're interested. I thought dowels would be easier
>> for
>> me to fabricate as an alternative, larger seemed better to drill and more
>> chunky so that's why I went for the 35mm dia.
>>
>> Thanks again for all your help!
>>
>> Marc
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:28:59 GMT, "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > Perfect?
>> > A laser in the correct laboratory environment might be able to do it...
>> >
>> > As others have said, your design seems to far exceed your tools... most
>> > of
>> > us
>> > use that as an excuse to buy more tools.. *g*
>> >
>> > Are you working from a set of plans, or is this your own design?
>> > If you could provide some dimensions, such as the length of the dowels
>> > or
>> > the
>> > space between shelves, that would make helping you easier....
>> >
>> > EXAMPLE: a 30 mm long dowel has much less complications and room for
>> > error
>> > that
>> > a 300mm long dowel..
>> >
>> >>Hi,
>> >>
>> >>Novice woodworker here, please help!
>> >>
>> >>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as
>> >>the
>> >>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or
>> >>metal
>> >>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
>> >>secure it all together.
>> >>
>> >>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through
>> >>their
>> >>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners
>> >>x
Many thanks Alexy. That idea seems the most understandable and high quality
solution I've read so far in this thread, that may be a winner but I'll read
on.
Much appreciation to all who are helping with these ideas!
Marc (OP)
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>Novice woodworker here, please help!
>>
>>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
>>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or
>>metal
>>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
>>secure it all together.
>>
>>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x
>>6
>>shelves = 24 dowels).
>>
>>I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
>>successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked
>>it.
>>I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>>
>>I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
>>stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>>
>>How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>>
>>Any help would be much appreciated!
>>
> First a nit-pick. You will not get a perfect hole, no matter what
> equipment you have available. You can get a plenty-godd-enough hole
> for your purposes, but it will take more equipment or time (and
> expense for practice material and waste) than you'd want to spend.
>
> I strongly second the suggestion made here for drilling just a little
> way into each end, then connecting the larger dowels that way. If you
> want the shelves to be able to be knocked down for moving, get some
> hanger bolts
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40988&cat=3,41306,41311
> and threaded inserts http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?sid=224. Drill
> your shelves just a little larger than the hanger bolt, so it passes
> through, but without a lot of slop. In the top of each 35mm dowel,
> drill a pilot hole for the wood thread portion of the hanger bolt. In
> the bottom or each, drill a hole that will let the machine screw
> portion of the hanger bolt be inserted freely, then drill the proper
> sized pilot hole for a threaded insert.
>
> The hardware is probably available at a local HW store or a borg--I'm
> just showing the lee valley and mcfeely's links since they are easy to
> find online, and you know they will have things like this.
> --
> Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked
> infrequently.
M C (in [email protected]) said:
| Hi,
|
| Novice woodworker here, please help!
|
| I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels
| as the vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm
| dowels (or metal stud) going through the full height of the unit on
| each corner so as to secure it all together.
|
| I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through
| their complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels.
| (4 corners x 6 shelves = 24 dowels).
|
| I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
| successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have
| liked it. I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
|
| I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a
| drill stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
|
| How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
|
| Any help would be much appreciated!
Marc...
You'll need help from someone with a lathe big enough to turn your
spindles (no huhu, we all need help from time to time.)
Drill your 8mm holes through round, square, or whatever spindle stock
that's bigger than 35mm. Take these to the 'someone with a lathe' and
have them turn 'em down to 35mm with your hole in the center.
Reward them appropriately (cash, beer, or something gee-whiz that
you've made) to make you both feel good about the help given/received.
Take the spindles home and finish your project. Think about how neat
it'd be to have your own lathe.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:28:59 GMT, "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote:
>
>Perfect?
>A laser in the correct laboratory environment might be able to do it...
Or, at least so close to perfect that you will not be able to prove
with any woodworking measuring tools (or maybe any lab measuring
tools) that it is imperfect. <g>
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Assuming you have a long bit, which is cheap at the Borg:
Cut 2-3 1" pieces of dowel
Mark centers and drill holes through
Thread two of the sections on the bit
Clamp the sections in line with a section of the dowel to use in the corner
of your TS fence, or other straight right angle corner
Drill the hole
If the short guides are a few inches apart they will align the bit pretty
well.
Make the holes a bit oversize, to allow moving the dowel a bit if necessary.
Think you have troubles? Imagine drilling a rifle barrel in the 1700s!
Wilson
"M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Many thanks Alexy. That idea seems the most understandable and high
> quality solution I've read so far in this thread, that may be a winner but
> I'll read on.
>
> Much appreciation to all who are helping with these ideas!
>
> Marc (OP)
>
>
>
>
> "alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>>Novice woodworker here, please help!
>>>
>>>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as
>>>the
>>>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or
>>>metal
>>>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
>>>secure it all together.
>>>
>>>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>>>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x
>>>6
>>>shelves = 24 dowels).
>>>
>>>I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
>>>successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked
>>>it.
>>>I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>>>
>>>I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
>>>stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>>>
>>>How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>>>
>>>Any help would be much appreciated!
>>>
>> First a nit-pick. You will not get a perfect hole, no matter what
>> equipment you have available. You can get a plenty-godd-enough hole
>> for your purposes, but it will take more equipment or time (and
>> expense for practice material and waste) than you'd want to spend.
>>
>> I strongly second the suggestion made here for drilling just a little
>> way into each end, then connecting the larger dowels that way. If you
>> want the shelves to be able to be knocked down for moving, get some
>> hanger bolts
>> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40988&cat=3,41306,41311
>> and threaded inserts http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?sid=224. Drill
>> your shelves just a little larger than the hanger bolt, so it passes
>> through, but without a lot of slop. In the top of each 35mm dowel,
>> drill a pilot hole for the wood thread portion of the hanger bolt. In
>> the bottom or each, drill a hole that will let the machine screw
>> portion of the hanger bolt be inserted freely, then drill the proper
>> sized pilot hole for a threaded insert.
>>
>> The hardware is probably available at a local HW store or a borg--I'm
>> just showing the lee valley and mcfeely's links since they are easy to
>> find online, and you know they will have things like this.
>> --
>> Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked
>> infrequently.
>
>
M C wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Novice woodworker here, please help!
>
> I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
> vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or metal
> stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
> secure it all together.
>
> I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
> complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
> shelves = 24 dowels).
>
> I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
> successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked it.
> I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>
> I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
> stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>
> How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>
> Any help would be much appreciated!
>
> Thanks to all!
>
> Marc
>
>
How about using tubing that will accommodate the rod diameter? Then all
you have to do is cut the tubing to length and apply a suitable finish.
Dave
On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 16:28:59 GMT, "M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote:
Perfect?
A laser in the correct laboratory environment might be able to do it...
As others have said, your design seems to far exceed your tools... most of us
use that as an excuse to buy more tools.. *g*
Are you working from a set of plans, or is this your own design?
If you could provide some dimensions, such as the length of the dowels or the
space between shelves, that would make helping you easier....
EXAMPLE: a 30 mm long dowel has much less complications and room for error that
a 300mm long dowel..
>Hi,
>
>Novice woodworker here, please help!
>
>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or metal
>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
>secure it all together.
>
>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
>shelves = 24 dowels).
>
>I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
>successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked it.
>I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>
>I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
>stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>
>How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>
>Any help would be much appreciated!
>
>Thanks to all!
>
>Marc
>
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
M C (in [email protected]) said:
| Novice woodworker here, please help!
|
| I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels
| as the vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm
| dowels (or metal stud) going through the full height of the unit on
| each corner so as to secure it all together.
|
| I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through
| their complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels.
| (4 corners x 6 shelves = 24 dowels).
|
| I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
| successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have
| liked it. I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
|
| I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a
| drill stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
|
| How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
Marc...
You'll need help from someone with a lathe big enough to turn your
spindles (no huhu, we all need help from time to time.)
Drill your 8mm holes through round, square, or whatever spindle stock
that's bigger than 35mm. Take these to the 'someone with a lathe' and
have them turn 'em down to 35mm with your hole in the center.
Reward them appropriately (cash, beer, or something gee-whiz that
you've made) to make you both feel good about the help given/received.
Take the spindles home and finish your project. Think about how neat
it'd be to have your own lathe. :-)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
"M C" <mcarney@*NO-SPAM*mail15.com> wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Novice woodworker here, please help!
>
>I am making a freestanding hi-fi rack unit using 35mm (dia.) dowels as the
>vertical spacers between the 6 MDF shelves. I am using 8mm dowels (or metal
>stud) going through the full height of the unit on each corner so as to
>secure it all together.
>
>I need each of the dowels to have perfect 8mm drilled holes through their
>complete lengths. I have a need to make 24 of these dowels. (4 corners x 6
>shelves = 24 dowels).
>
>I've already done a trial (by eye) and it did not work out very
>successfully. The hole was not perfectly straight as I would have liked it.
>I don't want my finished unit to be wonky!
>
>I have a drill with bits and a basic bench vice. I don't have a drill
>stand, lathe or any other big woodworking tools available.
>
>How can I best drill these perfect holes through the dowels ???
>
>Any help would be much appreciated!
>
First a nit-pick. You will not get a perfect hole, no matter what
equipment you have available. You can get a plenty-godd-enough hole
for your purposes, but it will take more equipment or time (and
expense for practice material and waste) than you'd want to spend.
I strongly second the suggestion made here for drilling just a little
way into each end, then connecting the larger dowels that way. If you
want the shelves to be able to be knocked down for moving, get some
hanger bolts
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40988&cat=3,41306,41311
and threaded inserts http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?sid=224. Drill
your shelves just a little larger than the hanger bolt, so it passes
through, but without a lot of slop. In the top of each 35mm dowel,
drill a pilot hole for the wood thread portion of the hanger bolt. In
the bottom or each, drill a hole that will let the machine screw
portion of the hanger bolt be inserted freely, then drill the proper
sized pilot hole for a threaded insert.
The hardware is probably available at a local HW store or a borg--I'm
just showing the lee valley and mcfeely's links since they are easy to
find online, and you know they will have things like this.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.