A rather simple question. I am wondering how people go about applying
paste wax to already oiled pieces?
I have always simply used a rag dipped into the paste wax, rub it into
the grain, wait 15min or so and buff with a clean rag. It works great,
but sometimes it seems to me like there might be a better way. I also
recall reading someone mention using 0000 Steel wool for applying wax,
and was wondering about the pros of that approach.
Alright,
thanks for any advice and hope this isn't too simple of a question
Andrew
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 22:47:56 GMT, the opaque Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>RE: Subject
>
>Several folks have suggested using steel wool.
>
>SFWIW, since steel rusts, if you don't get rid of 110% of the residue,
>you have a problem.
>
>I use either bronze wool or any of a number of 3M pads as an alternate
>to steel wool.
I picked up a box of 20 gray (ultra fine) ScotchBrite pads from Enco
for $12 last month when they were on sale. Those and a box of maroon
(fine) 7447s I bought last year ought to last me awhile.
505-6134 7448 6X9 LIGHT GREY 3M SCOTCH-BRITE PADS 20 $.59 $11.80
- Ever wonder what the speed of lightning would be if it didn't zigzag? -
http://diversify.com Full Service Web Application Programming
On 11 Jul 2005 16:54:08 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A rather simple question. I am wondering how people go about applying
>paste wax to already oiled pieces?
>
>I have always simply used a rag dipped into the paste wax, rub it into
>the grain, wait 15min or so and buff with a clean rag. It works great,
>but sometimes it seems to me like there might be a better way. I also
>recall reading someone mention using 0000 Steel wool for applying wax,
>and was wondering about the pros of that approach.
I have used 0000 steel wool for years like this. It does give a soft
sheen to the wood finish that most find appealing. You do get a few
little "hairs" of the steel wool stuck in corners and edges, so go
over it with a soft rag afterwards. If that fails, I also use an old
magnetron magnet (wrapped in a soft cloth) to "suck out" these little
bits.
On 11 Jul 2005 16:54:08 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A rather simple question. I am wondering how people go about applying
>paste wax to already oiled pieces?
>
>I have always simply used a rag dipped into the paste wax, rub it into
>the grain, wait 15min or so and buff with a clean rag. It works great,
>but sometimes it seems to me like there might be a better way. I also
>recall reading someone mention using 0000 Steel wool for applying wax,
>and was wondering about the pros of that approach.
>
>Alright,
>thanks for any advice and hope this isn't too simple of a question
>
>Andrew
I like to put a lump of wax onto a square of T-shirt material (always
white) and fold it, allowing the wax to exude through the material, so
as to apply thin controlled coats.
There are those who like to glob it on and take off the excess, but my
take on a wax finish is that it is best applied in thin coats and
rubbed in, in stages, so as to control the look of the color and
reflectivity.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
John Thomas wrote:
>
> Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> >>How so? (grain related? or chemical related?)
> >
> > Steel wool remnants + moisture = rust/black stains on the oak.
> >
> >
>
> Ok, that makes sense .. but why oak moreso than other woods?
>
High concentration of tannic acid...
CW wrote:
>
> I live in Seattle.
>
> "Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > CW wrote:
> > >
> > > Steel+oak=black stains. Guess how I know.
> >
> > Requires moisture, too...
Guess you got it, then.... :)
"John Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Steel wool and oak offer potential problems...
> >
> >
>
> How so? (grain related? or chemical related?)
>
> Curiously,
Chemical. Tannin and steel don't get along. Add a bit of damp, and you get
black spots - ferric (?) tannate.
For that matter, why steel wool? Dreadful stuff that gets dust everywhere.
If you want to scratch a surface, use 400 SiC. Or use satin varnish.
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 15:04:04 +0000 (UTC), the opaque John Thomas
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Steel wool and oak offer potential problems...
>How so? (grain related? or chemical related?)
Steel wool remnants + moisture = rust/black stains on the oak.
---------------------------------------------------
I drive way too fast to worry about my cholesterol.
---------------------------------------------------
http://www.diversify.com Refreshing Graphic Design
I live in Seattle.
"Duane Bozarth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> CW wrote:
> >
> > Steel+oak=black stains. Guess how I know.
>
> Requires moisture, too...
"Tattooed and Dusty" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> A rather simple question. I am wondering how people go about applying
> paste wax to already oiled pieces?
>
> I have always simply used a rag dipped into the paste wax, rub it into
> the grain, wait 15min or so and buff with a clean rag. It works great,
> but sometimes it seems to me like there might be a better way. I also
> recall reading someone mention using 0000 Steel wool for applying wax,
> and was wondering about the pros of that approach.
>
> Alright,
> thanks for any advice and hope this isn't too simple of a question
>
> Andrew
>
0000 and wax imparts a fine scratch pattern to the finish, yielding,
hopefully, a soft satin low gloss finish, with a velvety touch.
I use synthetic pads, for the reason that I have some, and have often used
oak in my projects. Steel wool and oak offer potential problems...
But recycled terry towels, t-shirts, and well washed old cloth baby diapers
also are favorites.
Patriarch
"Tattooed and Dusty" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Patriarch,
> As always thanks for the comments. Makes sense, maybe I will try the
> steel wool on this project
>
> A
>
You're welcome.
Patriarch
Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Steel wool and oak offer potential problems...
>
>
How so? (grain related? or chemical related?)
Curiously,
JT
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>>How so? (grain related? or chemical related?)
>
> Steel wool remnants + moisture = rust/black stains on the oak.
>
>
Ok, that makes sense .. but why oak moreso than other woods?
Being dense today,
JT
"George" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> Chemical. Tannin and steel don't get along. Add a bit of damp, and
> you get black spots - ferric (?) tannate.
>
> For that matter, why steel wool? Dreadful stuff that gets dust
> everywhere. If you want to scratch a surface, use 400 SiC. Or use
> satin varnish.
>
>
George,
Thanks -- between your post and Larry's -- I got it.
Regards,
JT
"Knothead" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:1121181440.0098105a3552499ffd6cedb30b062857@teranews:
> Back in my lurking days I gave 0000 and the synthetic version a try
> based on Patriarch's recommendations and can heartily say it is worth
> a go!
>
Just to be clear, this method predates ME by a very, very long time.
Patriarch,
puzzling the wisdom of the ancients daily...
On 11 Jul 2005 16:54:08 -0700, "Tattooed and Dusty"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A rather simple question. I am wondering how people go about applying
>paste wax to already oiled pieces?
Always a brush. Fairly stiff, so it buffs out well. Not a rag, as that
pulls tight over the edges and rub the wax off (if not the oil and the
shape of the corner too).
I also use rotary plastic "wire brushes" in a small corded drill. These
are nominally abrasive (grit filled plastic) and are what I use to
polish copper, they'll even brush-finish steel. On wood though, they
have no visible effect at all, they're just a good wax burnisher.
Minimal wax over plain oak and very heavy power brushing
http://codesmiths.com/shed/things/boxes/ark/
Oil and wax, with lots of fine sanding and hand-polishing between coats.
http://codesmiths.com/shed/things/boxes/purple_peril/
> For that matter, why steel wool? Dreadful stuff that gets dust
everywhere.
> If you want to scratch a surface, use 400 SiC. Or use satin varnish.
To remove the dust nibs in your satin varnish. I find a finish to be much
more "Touchable" after wax/wool. Although I have never tried it, I suspect
SiC would not hold the was as well.
If I were just applying a wax on raw wood, I would just use a cloth.
-Steve
On Tue, 12 Jul 2005 17:06:34 +0000 (UTC), the opaque John Thomas
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>>>How so? (grain related? or chemical related?)
>>
>> Steel wool remnants + moisture = rust/black stains on the oak.
>
>Ok, that makes sense .. but why oak moreso than other woods?
It may be the density of tannic acid in oaks, but don't quote me on
it. SWAG.
- Ever wonder what the speed of lightning would be if it didn't zigzag? -
http://diversify.com Full Service Web Application Programming
Steel+oak=black stains. Guess how I know.
"John Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Patriarch <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> > Steel wool and oak offer potential problems...
> >
> >
>
> How so? (grain related? or chemical related?)
>
> Curiously,
>
> JT