"Stainable" wood fillers are really tough to make work right. The
stainm is always a different color in the filler. I only use them on
projects where I care very little about the look. They best practice is
to fill the holes with colored filler just before you apply the last
coat of finish. This way you can select a color that matches best at
each location you have a hole. You may want various colors depending on
the variable color of the wood.
Sometimes fillers have a tendency to repel the finish so do you first
few coats, then fill the holes carefully, the apply that last coat. Of
course this requires that you pretty much use your fingers as opposed
to a putty knife.
In some cases a "burn in" type filler is best but I reccomend you do
this before the finish coats and you have to be pretty good. You melt
the burn stick to put some drops into the hole and then smooth it with
a heated putty knife. If it's not to hot you won't blister a film
finish but I find it easier to do it on un-filmed material (ie no
lacquer/poly, etc yet). I only use this stuff when I have big mistakes,
ie gouges.
Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based
Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to
be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I wouldn't
mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very good
cartridge based mask.
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Solvent based Famowood.
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
> "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
>> Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
>> with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>> particularly like?
>>
>> TIA.
>>
>> Dick Snyder
>>
>>
>
>
Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue.
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
>Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
>with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>particularly like?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
stoutman wrote:
> Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue.
>
I do a similar thing, but use sawdust and a few drops of blond shellac.
I always shellac the piece first before staining (as a stain
control) so this blends in very well, and seems to take a stain
consistantly. It only works for fairly small cracks however.
What kind of glue do you use, and does it stain ok?
Rob
OK - thanks. I will give the solvent based Famowood a try. I take it "fir"
is a color of Famowood??
I don't see who their retail suppliers are on their website. Can you tell me
where you buy it? (I live in Massachusetts but if you buy from a chain like
ACE or something, I can probably find them out here.
Dick Snyder
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have no experience with the "water based" Famowood. I have years
> experience with the solvent based product and it stains well. "Fir"
> Famowood is great on oak.
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
> "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based
>> Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want
>> to
>> be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I
> wouldn't
>> mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very
> good
>> cartridge based mask.
>>
>>
>> "Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Solvent based Famowood.
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > Rumpty
>> >
>> > Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>> >
>> > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>> >
>> >
>> > "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >> I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using
> a
>> >> Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few
> places
>> >> with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>> >> particularly like?
>> >>
>> >> TIA.
>> >>
>> >> Dick Snyder
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Dick Snyder wrote:
> Tomorrow I am going to try to find some stainable wood glue (someone
> in this thread suggested Elmers) to use for the patchup work. Does
> anyone have any further advice for me? I have greatly appreciated the
> help so far but I am still not where I want to be vis a vis lack of
> visibility of the filling.
Wax. Colored wax. Like the "putty sticks".
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Solvent based Famowood.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
> Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
> with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
> particularly like?
>
> TIA.
>
> Dick Snyder
>
>
Rob Mitchell <[email protected]> wrote in news:L%vTd.25504
[email protected]:
> stoutman wrote:
>> Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue.
>>
>
> I do a similar thing, but use sawdust and a few drops of blond shellac.
> I always shellac the piece first before staining (as a stain
> control) so this blends in very well, and seems to take a stain
> consistantly. It only works for fairly small cracks however.
>
> What kind of glue do you use, and does it stain ok?
>
> Rob
>
I'd be sure to test this method on scrap, as it will change the performance
of most stains over red oak.
You may like the changes. Or not. So test.
PVA (yellow or white) glues and stains are generally speaking, on red oak,
not such good friends.
Patriarch
I am using Probond interior glue on this project. I have not used it before
so I don't know about staining. I usually slice any squeeze out off with a
chisel once the glue is set up but before it gets too hard.
"Rob Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:L%[email protected]...
> stoutman wrote:
>> Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue.
>>
>
> I do a similar thing, but use sawdust and a few drops of blond shellac. I
> always shellac the piece first before staining (as a stain control) so
> this blends in very well, and seems to take a stain consistantly. It only
> works for fairly small cracks however.
>
> What kind of glue do you use, and does it stain ok?
>
> Rob
>
On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 12:20:17 GMT, B a r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> Yes, Famwood. I didn't answer that portion in my first post.
>>
>
>Famowood here, except if the wood is knotty or has many pitch pockets.
>In the latter case, I'll tint epoxy, let it cure, smooth it with a
>chisel or plane, and not worry about the "feature" taking stain.
>
>Barry
so, you're kinda making your own oak Bondo.. *g*
good idea!
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the
stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something much
bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish to
seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into a few
samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick the
one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with a
damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will
prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when dry.
It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of finish
can be applied.
As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding and
sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes.
GerryG
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
>Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
>with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>particularly like?
>
>TIA.
>
>Dick Snyder
>
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 20:20:19 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
don't know about that brand, but I tried some tests with a few brands of water
based fillers, thinking that you'd use them with water based stains, but the
solvent based fillers worked much better for both oil and water based stains..
YMMV
>Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based
>Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to
>be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I wouldn't
>mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very good
>cartridge based mask.
>
>
>"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Solvent based Famowood.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Rumpty
>>
>> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>>
>> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>>
>>
>> "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
>>> Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
>>> with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>>> particularly like?
>>>
>>> TIA.
>>>
>>> Dick Snyder
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
>While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept
the
stain the same as the wood.
Famowood does.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept
the
> stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something
much
> bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish
to
> seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into a
few
> samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick
the
> one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with a
> damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will
> prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when
dry.
> It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of
finish
> can be applied.
>
> As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding
and
> sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes.
> GerryG
>
>
> On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
> >Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
> >with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
> >particularly like?
> >
> >TIA.
> >
> >Dick Snyder
> >
On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
>Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
>with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>particularly like?
This is not really a testimonial but a professional painter recently
told me that the Leech Real Wood Filler from the squeeze tube works
very well with oak. He said the stuff in the tube is not as thick (as
in the can) and seems to take stain better.
I don't finish anything that I don't build for myself so I can't
really give you any first hand info.
Mike O.
I have no experience with the "water based" Famowood. I have years
experience with the solvent based product and it stains well. "Fir"
Famowood is great on oak.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
"Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based
> Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to
> be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I
wouldn't
> mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very
good
> cartridge based mask.
>
>
> "Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Solvent based Famowood.
> >
> > --
> >
> > Rumpty
> >
> > Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
> >
> > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> >
> >
> > "Dick Snyder" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >> I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using
a
> >> Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few
places
> >> with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
> >> particularly like?
> >>
> >> TIA.
> >>
> >> Dick Snyder
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Depending on the wood and stain, even the glue/dust/stain may not look too
natural. If you're careful, you can match the color, but any large areas will
be missing the grain. For large areas, leave the mix as light as the lightest
part of the wood. Before the final coat of finish (or after, if you miss
something) make up a toner with some finish and stain. Use a fine artists
brush to draw or connect the grain. Best to leave it light enough so it takes
a few coats, so you can blend it in. That can be done with any filler method,
as long as the filler is lighter. Pure stain is not good to use, as it doesn't
have enough binder.
GerryG
On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 22:03:13 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have purchased Famowood fir and Famowood red oak as well as small
>containers of three other kinds of fillers. When I apply the stain (Minwax
>Golden Oak) all of the fillers are significantly darker than the rest of the
>oak.
>
>I think I am going to have to try some methods AFTER applying stain and
>urethane to the project such as have been suggested in this thread
>(stainable wood glue and oak saw dust seems to be the best one for me to
>try). I have some miters that are showing more joint than I want. I want to
>fill those joints so that they are less visible.
>
>Tomorrow I am going to try to find some stainable wood glue (someone in this
>thread suggested Elmers) to use for the patchup work. Does anyone have any
>further advice for me? I have greatly appreciated the help so far but I am
>still not where I want to be vis a vis lack of visibility of the filling.
>
>
>"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> >While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely
>> >accept
>> the
>> stain the same as the wood.
>>
>> Famowood does.
>>
>> --
>>
>> Rumpty
>>
>> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>>
>> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>>
>>
>> "GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely
>>> accept
>> the
>>> stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something
>> much
>>> bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish
>> to
>>> seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into
>>> a
>> few
>>> samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick
>> the
>>> one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with
>>> a
>>> damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will
>>> prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when
>> dry.
>>> It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of
>> finish
>>> can be applied.
>>>
>>> As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding
>> and
>>> sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes.
>>> GerryG
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> >I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
>>> >Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
>>> >with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>>> >particularly like?
>>> >
>>> >TIA.
>>> >
>>> >Dick Snyder
>>> >
>>
>>
>
I have purchased Famowood fir and Famowood red oak as well as small
containers of three other kinds of fillers. When I apply the stain (Minwax
Golden Oak) all of the fillers are significantly darker than the rest of the
oak.
I think I am going to have to try some methods AFTER applying stain and
urethane to the project such as have been suggested in this thread
(stainable wood glue and oak saw dust seems to be the best one for me to
try). I have some miters that are showing more joint than I want. I want to
fill those joints so that they are less visible.
Tomorrow I am going to try to find some stainable wood glue (someone in this
thread suggested Elmers) to use for the patchup work. Does anyone have any
further advice for me? I have greatly appreciated the help so far but I am
still not where I want to be vis a vis lack of visibility of the filling.
"Rumpty" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely
> >accept
> the
> stain the same as the wood.
>
> Famowood does.
>
> --
>
> Rumpty
>
> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
>
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
> "GerryG" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely
>> accept
> the
>> stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something
> much
>> bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish
> to
>> seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into
>> a
> few
>> samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick
> the
>> one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with
>> a
>> damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will
>> prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when
> dry.
>> It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of
> finish
>> can be applied.
>>
>> As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding
> and
>> sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes.
>> GerryG
>>
>>
>> On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
>> >Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places
>> >with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they
>> >particularly like?
>> >
>> >TIA.
>> >
>> >Dick Snyder
>> >
>
>