On 8/1/2015 10:29 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 09:36:01 -0500
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> BTY I did not find the revo 18/36, was that a typo?
>
> no that is the new one retails $2500
I looked in the industrial section too. $2500 is approximately what I
paid for mine in 2006 IIRC. Now it is about $3600. Yikes
>
> bty by the yukon
> that is my guess
>
BTY, ;~) My keyboard does not have a "W". Oops!
I don't know why I don't use BTW
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 08:46:06 -0500
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> I bought the LT16HD Laguna and the comparison difference is like a
>> bench top table saw to a cabinet saw. With this saw you can't blame
>> the saw. ;~)
>
> more reason to buy the low-end
> gives you plausible deniability
>
> oh, that, that was the saw's fault
>
> regarding laguna the new revo looks very nice and has got good reviews
> interesting about this model is that it has steel bedways instead of cast
> iron
Yeah!
On 7/30/2015 9:31 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 18:22:06 -0500
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> Try to test one before buying. While the ceramic guides on the
>> Laguna are probably the best available they do offer about 3
>> different lines/quality of machines. I would not be surprised at all
>> of they were built in the same plant that Jet, Grizley, and other
>> tiawanese machines are built. I know how you don't like Jet.
>
> always good to try before you buy
> i am not buying one but just passing along that they had 5 for sale at 875
Well that is a good rule of thumb but not always possible. But on the
units that are in the store, testing would certainly be part of the
process. Now if you are looking for the top end consumer band saws from
Laguna you are going to probably have to go to California or a trade
show where the bands saws might be on display. I suspect because of the
price difference local store simply do not stock those saws. And I find
that a bit odd because my local Woodcraft stocks the $5000+ Powermatic
and the upper end Lagunas in similar sizes might be a bit less. Maybe
the big Powermatics are made in Taiwan vs. the Italian built Lagunas.
>
>
> it seems like a good price but if it is a cookie-cutter saw than it may not be
> a good deal
>
> looks like a nice saw
Absolutely a good price but aside from the ceramic guides the low end
Laguna might be as fussy as the other similar priced saws.
Almost 10 years ago I thought I was upgrading when I bought the 18"
Rikon for $999. Unfortunately it was still pretty comparable to my old
10" Craftsman that was 20+ years old. The Rikon got returned almost
immediately. It did have more power over the Craftsman but finding
blades that would track decently was a crap shoot and then I still had
to putz with adjustments to get them "just right" so that they would
even cut with any precision. With the Laguna perfect adjustment is not
necessary for the saw to perform well.
I bought the LT16HD Laguna and the comparison difference is like a bench
top table saw to a cabinet saw. With this saw you can't blame the saw. ;~)
On 7/30/2015 12:01 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> was looking at laguna (they finally released the revo 18/36) and I saw they
> had a great deal on the 14/12 bandsaw for $875
>
> if i had the 875 one dollar bills i would get one of these
>
> http://lagunatools.com
>
> i watched the bat master video just for fun
> that is the cnc wood lathe
>
BTY I did not find the revo 18/36, was that a typo?
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:15:10 -0500
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
> > I would say because of the length. Any particular blade is a given
> > thickness, the shorter it is the more it has to bend to coil and the
> > more resistant it is to bend. Anyway with my 150" blades it is
> > almost like uncoiling a garden hose, there is no urgency by the blade
> > to uncoil.
>
> mine are 90 something inches
> they are like a coiled snake
>
> now all this talk of blades has reminded me that bandsaws used to have
> a spot welder on them i think
>
> or at least it was common to repair them
> it seems material science has advanced to a point where the blades are
> harder to break
The welder isn't there to mend an accidentally broken blade, it's there,
generally with a cutter as well, to facilitate internal cuts--you break
the blade, pass it through a drilled hole in the part, weld it, and then
do the cut.
In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
>
> On 8/1/2015 4:50 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> > In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> > says...
> >>
> >> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:15:10 -0500
> >> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> >>
> >>> I would say because of the length. Any particular blade is a given
> >>> thickness, the shorter it is the more it has to bend to coil and the
> >>> more resistant it is to bend. Anyway with my 150" blades it is
> >>> almost like uncoiling a garden hose, there is no urgency by the blade
> >>> to uncoil.
> >>
> >> mine are 90 something inches
> >> they are like a coiled snake
> >>
> >> now all this talk of blades has reminded me that bandsaws used to have
> >> a spot welder on them i think
> >>
> >> or at least it was common to repair them
> >> it seems material science has advanced to a point where the blades are
> >> harder to break
> >
> > The welder isn't there to mend an accidentally broken blade, it's there,
> > generally with a cutter as well, to facilitate internal cuts--you break
> > the blade, pass it through a drilled hole in the part, weld it, and then
> > do the cut.
> >
> >
>
> I have never heard of that but it certainly seems reasonable. But all
> BS blades start out as a very long blade that is not a continuous loop.
> If they break that can be rewelded/repaired.
If you're a woodworker only you probably wouldn't have. That feature is
more common on metal-cutting bandsaws.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> >> > The welder isn't there to mend an accidentally broken blade, it's
> >> > there, generally with a cutter as well, to facilitate internal
> >> > cuts--you break the blade, pass it through a drilled hole in the
> >> > part, weld it, and then do the cut.
>
> > If you're a woodworker only you probably wouldn't have. That feature
> > is more common on metal-cutting bandsaws.
>
> I don't think this is common at all now-a-days. There are
> so many alternative ways to cut an interior hole now, that
> using a bandsaw isn't the preferred way.
>
> (not a metal worker, but my buddy is a serious machinest,
> so I get some insight to that world. It can be really
> useful having a machinest friend, incidently)
>
> John
Depends on the size of the hole and the material.
It is a different world though--I remember when Bosch jigsaws had an
optional blade oiler and blades rated for armor plate.
On 8/1/2015 12:53 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:21:50 -0500
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> I looked in the industrial section too. $2500 is approximately what
>> I paid for mine in 2006 IIRC. Now it is about $3600. Yikes
>
> which model is $3600
> how do you like it
LT16HD
http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws/bandsaw-lt16hd
I love the saw, never a problem with adjustments not holding and
adjustments can be relatively vague and it cuts fine.
I will warn you however, this saw comes with a 4.5 hp Baldor motor that
"you" have to mount, and you will have to add a cord, unless something
has changed. It is a 2 person job, mounting the motor, and the motor is
very heavy and large.
Other than mounting the motor every thing is pretty straight forward. I
strongly advise getting the mobility kit, the saw is about 465 lbs.
Making veneer is a simple procedure with the 1.25" Resaw King that
Laguna sells.
One other thing, not really a feature of the saw other than the size
blade it uses, 150". The longer blades are a snap to fold and unfold
compared to shorter ones I have folded. I can fold and unfold bare
handed. There is such low tension with it folded that tossing it on the
ground to let it spring open does not work. I'm totally in control when
unfolding.
>
On 8/1/2015 4:29 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:15:10 -0500
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> I would say because of the length. Any particular blade is a given
>> thickness, the shorter it is the more it has to bend to coil and the
>> more resistant it is to bend. Anyway with my 150" blades it is
>> almost like uncoiling a garden hose, there is no urgency by the blade
>> to uncoil.
>
> mine are 90 something inches
> they are like a coiled snake
LOL I remember those days with my old and much smaller Craftsman. Not
realizing the longer blades, on the Laguna, have less tension I feared
the opposite with the longer blades until I dropped the blade 5~7 times
and nothing happened. And then I was really on guard as I opened it
with my hands.
>
> now all this talk of blades has reminded me that bandsaws used to have
> a spot welder on them i think
Yes, they are welded in one spot, end to end.
>
> or at least it was common to repair them
> it seems material science has advanced to a point where the blades are
> harder to break
>
> i have tested this unwittingly and the blade i have did not break
>
I have only had one broken BS blade on the Laguna.... My wife wanted
to cut out a complicated pattern that was drawn on "cardboard". Bang!
Cardboard are you kidding me? LOL
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:mpj12e$3hi$3
@dont-email.me:
> no idea what by the way really means anyway
A "way" is a road or path. So "by the way" means something
which is beside the main path of the conversation.
> maybe some elizabethan era thing
According to the OED, you're precisely right. They date the
expression to 1556.
BTW, one of my pet peeves is people who confuse "way" as in
"under way" with weigh as in "weigh anchor". Doesn't annoy
me as much as the people who confuse break and brake, tho.
John
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>> > The welder isn't there to mend an accidentally broken blade, it's
>> > there, generally with a cutter as well, to facilitate internal
>> > cuts--you break the blade, pass it through a drilled hole in the
>> > part, weld it, and then do the cut.
> If you're a woodworker only you probably wouldn't have. That feature
> is more common on metal-cutting bandsaws.
I don't think this is common at all now-a-days. There are
so many alternative ways to cut an interior hole now, that
using a bandsaw isn't the preferred way.
(not a metal worker, but my buddy is a serious machinest,
so I get some insight to that world. It can be really
useful having a machinest friend, incidently)
John
On 8/1/2015 8:29 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
> @swbelldotnet says...
>>
>> On 8/1/2015 4:50 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
>>> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
>>> says...
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:15:10 -0500
>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I would say because of the length. Any particular blade is a given
>>>>> thickness, the shorter it is the more it has to bend to coil and the
>>>>> more resistant it is to bend. Anyway with my 150" blades it is
>>>>> almost like uncoiling a garden hose, there is no urgency by the blade
>>>>> to uncoil.
>>>>
>>>> mine are 90 something inches
>>>> they are like a coiled snake
>>>>
>>>> now all this talk of blades has reminded me that bandsaws used to have
>>>> a spot welder on them i think
>>>>
>>>> or at least it was common to repair them
>>>> it seems material science has advanced to a point where the blades are
>>>> harder to break
>>>
>>> The welder isn't there to mend an accidentally broken blade, it's there,
>>> generally with a cutter as well, to facilitate internal cuts--you break
>>> the blade, pass it through a drilled hole in the part, weld it, and then
>>> do the cut.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I have never heard of that but it certainly seems reasonable. But all
>> BS blades start out as a very long blade that is not a continuous loop.
>> If they break that can be rewelded/repaired.
>
> If you're a woodworker only you probably wouldn't have. That feature is
> more common on metal-cutting bandsaws.
>
>Yeah, that is a similar technique used by scroll sawers. Inside cuts
require the blade to be loosened on one end and threaded through a hole.
On 7/30/2015 12:01 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> was looking at laguna (they finally released the revo 18/36) and I saw they
> had a great deal on the 14/12 bandsaw for $875
>
> if i had the 875 one dollar bills i would get one of these
>
> http://lagunatools.com
>
> i watched the bat master video just for fun
> that is the cnc wood lathe
>
Try to test one before buying. While the ceramic guides on the Laguna
are probably the best available they do offer about 3 different
lines/quality of machines. I would not be surprised at all of they were
built in the same plant that Jet, Grizley, and other tiawanese machines
are built. I know how you don't like Jet.
On Thu, 30 Jul 2015 18:22:06 -0500
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> Try to test one before buying. While the ceramic guides on the
> Laguna are probably the best available they do offer about 3
> different lines/quality of machines. I would not be surprised at all
> of they were built in the same plant that Jet, Grizley, and other
> tiawanese machines are built. I know how you don't like Jet.
always good to try before you buy
i am not buying one but just passing along that they had 5 for sale at 875
it seems like a good price but if it is a cookie-cutter saw than it may not be
a good deal
looks like a nice saw
On Fri, 31 Jul 2015 08:46:06 -0500
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> I bought the LT16HD Laguna and the comparison difference is like a
> bench top table saw to a cabinet saw. With this saw you can't blame
> the saw. ;~)
more reason to buy the low-end
gives you plausible deniability
oh, that, that was the saw's fault
regarding laguna the new revo looks very nice and has got good reviews
interesting about this model is that it has steel bedways instead of cast
iron
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 12:21:50 -0500
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> I looked in the industrial section too. $2500 is approximately what
> I paid for mine in 2006 IIRC. Now it is about $3600. Yikes
which model is $3600
how do you like it
by the time i squirrel together $2500 maybe there will be some on the
used market
although maybe i need to search harder but i see very few used lathes
for sale
> BTY, ;~) My keyboard does not have a "W". Oops!
just poking a little fun
i like by the yukon better
no idea what by the way really means anyway
maybe some elizabethan era thing
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:32:40 -0500
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> LT16HD
> http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws/bandsaw-lt16hd
yep as you mentioned before and a nice saw
BTY the revo 18/36 is the new lathe not a bandsaw
> I love the saw, never a problem with adjustments not holding and
> adjustments can be relatively vague and it cuts fine.
> I will warn you however, this saw comes with a 4.5 hp Baldor motor
> that "you" have to mount, and you will have to add a cord, unless
> something has changed. It is a 2 person job, mounting the motor, and
> the motor is very heavy and large.
that or a hoist
a guy put together his big lathe (powermatic i think) with a engine hoist
while his wife looked on
> Making veneer is a simple procedure with the 1.25" Resaw King that
> Laguna sells.
you mentioned this before and i saw one in action
i never knew it was possible to do the thing that setup can do
> One other thing, not really a feature of the saw other than the size
> blade it uses, 150". The longer blades are a snap to fold and unfold
> compared to shorter ones I have folded. I can fold and unfold bare
> handed. There is such low tension with it folded that tossing it on
> the ground to let it spring open does not work. I'm totally in
> control when unfolding.
that is interesting
are you saying it is low tension because of the length of the blade
or is it a function of the material
it sounds like it is the material that is different
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:15:10 -0500
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> I would say because of the length. Any particular blade is a given
> thickness, the shorter it is the more it has to bend to coil and the
> more resistant it is to bend. Anyway with my 150" blades it is
> almost like uncoiling a garden hose, there is no urgency by the blade
> to uncoil.
mine are 90 something inches
they are like a coiled snake
now all this talk of blades has reminded me that bandsaws used to have
a spot welder on them i think
or at least it was common to repair them
it seems material science has advanced to a point where the blades are
harder to break
i have tested this unwittingly and the blade i have did not break
On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 18:46:27 +0000 (UTC)
John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> A "way" is a road or path. So "by the way" means something
> which is beside the main path of the conversation.
could say by the wayside and then it is more descriptive
> According to the OED, you're precisely right. They date the
> expression to 1556.
easy guess since so many sayings came out of that period
> BTW, one of my pet peeves is people who confuse "way" as in
> "under way" with weigh as in "weigh anchor". Doesn't annoy
> me as much as the people who confuse break and brake, tho.
not seeing that much but maybe not looking that hard
Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 18:46:27 +0000 (UTC)
> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> A "way" is a road or path. So "by the way" means something
>> which is beside the main path of the conversation.
>
> could say by the wayside and then it is more descriptive
Maybe you should just go back in time and correct those who first came up
with the term...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 8/1/2015 3:40 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 14:32:40 -0500
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> LT16HD
>> http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws/bandsaw-lt16hd
>
> yep as you mentioned before and a nice saw
>
> BTY the revo 18/36 is the new lathe not a bandsaw
>
>> I love the saw, never a problem with adjustments not holding and
>> adjustments can be relatively vague and it cuts fine.
>> I will warn you however, this saw comes with a 4.5 hp Baldor motor
>> that "you" have to mount, and you will have to add a cord, unless
>> something has changed. It is a 2 person job, mounting the motor, and
>> the motor is very heavy and large.
>
> that or a hoist
> a guy put together his big lathe (powermatic i think) with a engine hoist
> while his wife looked on
>
>
>> Making veneer is a simple procedure with the 1.25" Resaw King that
>> Laguna sells.
>
> you mentioned this before and i saw one in action
> i never knew it was possible to do the thing that setup can do
>
>> One other thing, not really a feature of the saw other than the size
>> blade it uses, 150". The longer blades are a snap to fold and unfold
>> compared to shorter ones I have folded. I can fold and unfold bare
>> handed. There is such low tension with it folded that tossing it on
>> the ground to let it spring open does not work. I'm totally in
>> control when unfolding.
>
> that is interesting
> are you saying it is low tension because of the length of the blade
> or is it a function of the material
>
> it sounds like it is the material that is different
>
.
I would say because of the length. Any particular blade is a given
thickness, the shorter it is the more it has to bend to coil and the
more resistant it is to bend. Anyway with my 150" blades it is almost
like uncoiling a garden hose, there is no urgency by the blade to uncoil.
On 8/1/2015 4:50 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
> says...
>>
>> On Sat, 1 Aug 2015 16:15:10 -0500
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> I would say because of the length. Any particular blade is a given
>>> thickness, the shorter it is the more it has to bend to coil and the
>>> more resistant it is to bend. Anyway with my 150" blades it is
>>> almost like uncoiling a garden hose, there is no urgency by the blade
>>> to uncoil.
>>
>> mine are 90 something inches
>> they are like a coiled snake
>>
>> now all this talk of blades has reminded me that bandsaws used to have
>> a spot welder on them i think
>>
>> or at least it was common to repair them
>> it seems material science has advanced to a point where the blades are
>> harder to break
>
> The welder isn't there to mend an accidentally broken blade, it's there,
> generally with a cutter as well, to facilitate internal cuts--you break
> the blade, pass it through a drilled hole in the part, weld it, and then
> do the cut.
>
>
I have never heard of that but it certainly seems reasonable. But all
BS blades start out as a very long blade that is not a continuous loop.
If they break that can be rewelded/repaired.