Bill,
About a year ago, you asked us to evaluate a Craigslist or estate
auction tablesaw. Did you ever find a table saw? If you are near
enough to Waverly, Ohio, there may be a saw, here, within your price
range:
http://irsauctions.com/index.asp?pg=14&ind=&view=&today=
A side note (rant): This factory is obviously huge. It sure must
have been quite a blow to the workers/community for it to shut
down.... I suspect they are/have shut down. I have purchased a few
items (woodworking tools, industrial upholstery sewing machine,
hardware items) from this auction site. When I went to pick up my
items, I spoke with the personnel at the facilities. The companies
were not retooling, they were being bought out by Chinese based
franchises.
Though I am retired, I am a certified upholsterer and many customers
want the best built furniture. They are willing to pay for it, also.
Most relatively new furniture, I've reupholstered, is foreign made and
is really poor quality (frame material, foam, construction). For any
of you looking to buy furniture, look into finding an old American
made piece and have it reupholstered, rather than settling for this
newer crap from overseas. Even the foam, in these overseas products,
is inferior. I've replace lots of inferior foam from some of these,
so called, "high end" recently purchased (overseas made) furniture
pieces.
I really dislike seeing our American furniture companies (or any
American company) disappear, this way.
Sorry for the rant, but some things just rub me the wrong way,
sometimes.
Bill, despite someone's possible/probable job loss (relative to the
link), I hope you can find a saw for yourself, if you haven't found
one, already.
Sonny
Lot 8072 is single phase:
http://irsauctions.com/popups/bidders_paddle.asp?lot=194689&auction=AOFXXB5101BSAXQHBMJQW035T4GBR6&id=14688
They haven't finished listing all the items to be sold. Lots 11000 -
11134 have yet to be listed. Might be another saw among these
listings, also.
I didn't think to check all the motor specs. On my previous link, at
the bottom of any page of listings, there is a "past featured
auctions" link. Masco had a previous sale not long ago. You can
check that past auction to see what other table saws sold for. When I
clicked onto it, a moment ago, it was being updated.
Sonny
> I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
> dust collection (do you think that is correct?). =A0What would the
> "control panel" that is attached to it be for?
> Bill
That black pipe is the over arm blade guard support (see the listed
amenities) and they are often, at least part of, the dust collection
feature, as you surmised. Many saws have that kind of blade guard
attachment, rather than the blade guard attached to the table top,
behind the blade.
I don't see a control panel on the arm guard. I see a tool rest/cage-
type thing. Other than that, I see a valve, for adjusting the dust
collection. The dust ducts, for overhead collection, have,
apparently, been detached from the saw.
Expect the price to reach $600. I doubt you will find a good used
Unisaw, anywhere, for less than that. It's a good idea to add the 10%
auctioneers fee and your travel costs, in determining the max amount
you are willing to invest in the whole affair. If the bidding reaches
$800, I would hesitate to bid further.... might as well buy a new saw
for $1200 - $1400 (?). A new saw comes with a warranty and possibly a
discounted (additional $, but w/ rebate) mobile base. *Ask if there's
supposed to be a mobile base for that saw! ...Never can tell, maybe
there's one hanging around (Not listed on the manifest, but originally
party to the saw) waiting to be remarried.
Call or email the IRS site's contact person and they can give you the
Waverly contact person, to get specific info about the item. Should
you bid and win, make copies of the posted pics, of the saw, before
going pick it up. You want to make sure everything pictured remains
intact. If you bid and win, bring tools to disassemble the saw from
the extension table and a dolly, just in case you have to load
yourself. It'll be hard to load the whole, as is. If you bid and
win, ask if they have the paperwork/invoice/instruction/users manual
for the saw (in the administrative office, somewhere). Try to get
those items, also, if available, while the getting is good. If the
saw is not too old, there may be some warrranty remaining.
That IRS link has many other sales. Every now and then a pretty good
deal, or 2, comes along. You just have to be patient. If not this
sale, I hope you can eventually find a good saw and nearer to you.
Sonny
Having worked in a hospital setting, I became aware of rolling
equipment eventually becoming damaged. One day, I checked with the
maintenace department to see if there were any casters available for
salvaging, to put on a lathe cabinet I made. Sho-nuff, half a dozen
sets of top quality casters.... soft & hard rubber tired, plastic
tires, bare metal. If convenient, call your local hospital maintenace
department to see what might be available. Besdies the lathe cabinet,
I've used some of those salvaged casters for 2 carts I made for moving
upholstered furniture, steel ones for my anvil base and 2 for the
RAS.
In the salvage mix was 2 patient gurneys. The aluminum framing was
perfect for refabbing into furniture carts, w/ soft roll wheels (no
damage rolling on customer's hardwood floors) that turn on a dime.
Those gurneys/casters are required to support very large patients!
Sonny
On 2011-06-19 01:22:25 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> said:
> You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
> Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order!
A true worrier would go inside and check the order before stepping away
from the counter.
On 2011-06-19 08:18:33 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> said:
> Nah - Murphy was just a pessimist...
No. Murphy was an optimist.
> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
-------------------------------
Based on 500 miles usage, 10 MPG,and $4/gal fuel cost, you have about
$200 total fuel cost.
Rent truck with a "Tommy Gate" mid week, allow $100/day, less than
$300 total.
Do some night time driving, you're on the clock.
Less than $500 gets the job done, if you WANT to do it.
Lew
On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Thanks for the information Jim.
>
>BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?
>
>I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.
How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?
>Along with the
>baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
>that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!
I think you meant to say "hand truck", dincha? What you built was a
dolly.
And while we're at it, one stands -on- a podium and -at/behind- a
lectern. </pet peeves>
--
Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
-- Storm Jameson
Lee Michaels wrote:
> "Bill" wrote
>>
>> I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
> I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
> dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.
>
> (Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by
> being some damn literal.)
Is this where we merge the thread "Squaring Rough Lumber" with this one, and
ask if you got blowed by your table saw?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 6/29/2011 10:51 PM, Bill wrote:
> For the saw auctioned today, I wasn't even sure how I was going to get
> it onto the liftgate by myself so I was tentatively chose the plan which
> left me with a trailer hitch.
One person can load a Unisaw, on a mobile base, easily with a pickup
truck equipped with a Tommylift tail gate.
For a box truck, where the bed is much higher off the ground, two are
ideal ... one to push the lift gate button, and one to steady the
extension table (which is hanging off the lift) for the longer trip up.
Neither person has to lift anything.
> By the way, Swingman's words weren't wasted on me--mobile bases wouldn't
> ship for 5 days--and that was too vague for my purposes now.
A mobile base is almost a necessity for most of us with a cabinet saw,
unless your shop is so big that you'll only move it once/in.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Bill" wrote
In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
(which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
your thoughtfulness!
It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and get
a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can find a
shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer lightweight.
-- Jim in NC
In article <[email protected]>, frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...
>
> On 6/29/11 8:49 PM, Leon wrote:
> > On 6/29/2011 1:46 PM, Bill wrote:
> >> Sonny wrote:
> >>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
> >>> how old that saw is.
> >>>
> >>> Sonny
> >>
> >>
> >> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
> >>
> >> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
> >> Costs:
> >>
> >> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
> >> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
> >> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
> >> $100+ for gas
> >>
> >> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
> >>
> >> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
> >> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
> >>
> >> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
> >> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank you
> >> folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
> >>
> >> Bill
> >>
> > Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
> > about $450 for 4 days.
>
> Note he said he needed the hitch first.
Why would he need a hitch to rent a truck?
In article <[email protected]>, lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...
>
> On 6/29/2011 8:09 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
> > On 6/29/11 8:49 PM, Leon wrote:
> >> On 6/29/2011 1:46 PM, Bill wrote:
> >>> Sonny wrote:
> >>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
> >>>> how old that saw is.
> >>>>
> >>>> Sonny
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
> >>>
> >>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
> >>> Costs:
> >>>
> >>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
> >>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
> >>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
> >>> $100+ for gas
> >>>
> >>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
> >>>
> >>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
> >>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
> >>>
> >>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
> >>> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank you
> >>> folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
> >>>
> >>> Bill
> >>>
> >> Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
> >> about $450 for 4 days.
> >
> > Note he said he needed the hitch first.
> >
>
> Note, you need a hitch to pull the trailer.
If he's got a 16 foot lift gate truck then why does he need a trailer?
On 6/19/2011 12:22 AM, Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
>>> to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
>>> have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure
>>> that I won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could
>>> do in a long day.
>>>
>>
>>
>> Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw and
>> likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come. You
>> worry
>> too much.
>>
>
> Thanks Mike. Those things must be make of steel! ; ) It seems like when
> people are looking at old saws that's one of the things they check.
> I guess that mainly leaves the motor to go bad..
>
> You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
> Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order! In my experience, entropy is
> NOT on my side... Murphy, too, was a victim of entropy. ; )
>
> Bill
BUt But,50 years ago Wendy's did not exist or the people working there.
On 6/19/2011 12:39 AM, Bill wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the information Jim.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>>>>> base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>>>>> finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>>>>> lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>>>>> casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for
>>>>> long?
>>
>> If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.
>
> Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100018182/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Maybe, I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels
broke.
Bill wrote:
> Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw
>> and likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come.
>> You worry too much.
>>
>
> Thanks Mike. Those things must be make of steel! ; ) It seems like
> when people are looking at old saws that's one of the things they
> check. I guess that mainly leaves the motor to go bad..
Oh sure - worth checking, but my point is only that you won't find many
arbor bearings that need replacing.
>
> You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
> Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order! In my experience, entropy
> is NOT on my side... Murphy, too, was a victim of entropy. ; )
>
Nah - Murphy was just a pessimist...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 6/29/2011 1:46 PM, Bill wrote:
> Sonny wrote:
>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>
>>
>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
>> how old that saw is.
>>
>> Sonny
>
>
> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>
> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
> Costs:
>
> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
> $100+ for gas
>
> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>
> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>
> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank you
> folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
>
> Bill
>
Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
about $450 for 4 days.
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the information Jim.
>>>
>>> BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>>> base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>>> finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>>> lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>>> casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?
If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.
>>> I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.
>>
>> How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?
>
>Morgans gets most of the credit for giving me the idea. It has four 3
>1/2" (3.75" long), 3/8" carriage bolts each of which screws into a
>threaded insert in the bottom of the frame/base. These allow the bolts
>to go 3" into the frame (twobafour). Since the bottom of the wheels
>extend about 1 1/4" below the frame, if the screws are tightened enough
>the unit stands on its wheels. If they are extended more than 1 1/4"
>then the unit will rest on the carriage bolts. I know you get the idea
>but I will post a picture after my wife "fixes" our camera.
Are the bolts long enough to double-nut and use a socket on an
electric drill to run up and down? It'll save you a lot of time and
hassle if you do it that way.
Well, looky there! They're selling mobile bases again.
http://www.harborfreight.com/300-lb-capacity-mobile-base-95288.html
Instead of the knobs, double nuts would run those stop pad bolts down
in under a minute.
>I haven't actually tried resting the unit the carriage bolts yet. I had
>no difficulty testing the DP with the unit on wheels. The force of
>gravity along with the friction of the concrete floor is enough to keep
>the unit from moving. When I was finished I just moved it 6 feet off to
>the side, with ease, swept up, and moved it back just as easy! I
>under-estimated how much I would enjoy the ease of pushing it across the
>garage floor! I am still respectful of the fact that it could easily
>harm person or property if it fell over, so I don't want to suggest that
>I push or pull it around in a lackadaisical manner. When it finds it's
>place I will slide some wooden blocks underneath the frame for insurance
>(although this may be redundant because if a leg/bolt gives, it will
>fall to a wheel). Trust me that I'll try not to under-do it!
I believe we can trust you on that. <titter>
>>> Along with the
>>> baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
>>> that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!
>>
>> I think you meant to say "hand truck", dincha? What you built was a
>> dolly.
>
>Type "appliance dolly" into a search engine and see what comes up!
>I'm sure you are correct. BTW, I like to think I built a "mobile base"!
> I forgot to try riding it down the driveway. :)
I think that might have been fun, but the traffic would be hell,
seein' as you didn't provide a hand brake on the thing.
>> And while we're at it, one stands -on- a podium and -at/behind- a
>> lectern.</pet peeves>
>
>Didn't know that either! Gosh!
It amazes me that 99% of people don't seem to know that difference or
the one between dolly and hand truck.
>I'm on Day 2 of assembling the BS now. Day 1 involved assembling it's
>Delta mobile base, unpacking, cleaning and reading the directions. The
>BS assembly work for Day 2 is about to commence. I'm going to go check
>out the current price of the TS being auctioned that Sonny referred me
>to.. What is your summer project?
DECLUTTERING the house and shop. I'm knee deep in paperwork and
packratted items, so anything after that is gravy. <sigh>
--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck
On Jun 16, 10:30=A0am, Sonny <[email protected]> wrote:
> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>
You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
how old that saw is.
Sonny
Bill wrote:
>
> I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
> to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
> have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure
> that I won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could
> do in a long day.
>
Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw and
likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come. You worry
too much.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 6/19/2011 10:11 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 07:10:12 -0500, Leon<lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 6/19/2011 12:39 AM, Bill wrote:
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>>>> On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks for the information Jim.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>>>>>>> base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>>>>>>> finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>>>>>>> lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>>>>>>> casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for
>>>>>>> long?
>>>>
>>>> If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.
>>>
>>> Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
>>> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100018182/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
>>
>> Maybe, I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels
>> broke.
>
> I've had these http://goo.gl/EySsk for years without problems, but
> usually on lighter-weight stuff, under #100 load on each wheel.
>
> --
> Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
> -- Margaret Lee Runbeck
I had less than 50lbs on each wheel. Axle pushed right through the
wheel center and broke it.
I find the harder plastic wheels hold up much better.
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 21:43:09 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>
>>>> There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
>>>> around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
>>>> that Brad point bits are great!
>>>
>>> I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they?
>>> No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners
>>> are another treat.
>>
>> Since we're talking about this. I noticed all of my exit holes came out
>> without splintering, but I had some splintering where where the (1/2")
>> bit entered. I was using a variable-speed hand drill. I was wondering
>> whether to blame this on the drill not being up-to-speed before contact?
>> Is this the likely culprit?
Slow RPM usually _isn't_ a problem when drilling wood.
>Hmmm.. another variable. In the case where I got splintering I had
>already pre-drilled with 3/16" bit. Is that, more likely, the source of
>the splintering.
With a brad point, yes, likely the culprit. The guide tit (we'll call
him Brad for good measure) didn't have anything to grab onto, so when
the first flute hit (if it weren't exactly vertical) it tried to drill
an oblong or oversized hole. Try to avoid pilot holes in wood unless
you're using a twist drill in the center of a hole saw and the pilot
is the same or smaller size than the pilot bit in the saw.
--
The more passions and desires one has,
the more ways one has of being happy.
-- Charlotte-Catherine
On 6/29/2011 10:51 PM, Bill wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>
>> Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
>> about $450 for 4 days.
>
>
> Thanks for reminding me about that Leon. I WAS able to locate 22' lift
> gate trucks (Penske), but they were not available for "one-way" rental.
> The rental price was some nominal amout + .79cents/mile. Of course, at
> almost 500 miles, the latter, along with gas, might be significant. As
> you may have read, Swingman described your efforts at moving a saw on a
> mobile base using a lift gate truck as practically effortless! One thing
> is certain, next time I see a saw, I will not have to search for the
> answer to the question, as I have done more than once before, "HOW can I
> move that saw by tomorrow?"!
>
> For the saw auctioned today, I wasn't even sure how I was going to get
> it onto the liftgate by myself so I was tentatively chose the plan which
> left me with a trailer hitch.
>
> By the way, Swingman's words weren't wasted on me--mobile bases wouldn't
> ship for 5 days--and that was too vague for my purposes now.
>
> Bill
Damn Bill, you did not tell them you were coming did you? LOL
t might be cheaper for you to fly to Houston, rent the PV rental truck
and go from here, deliver the saw to your home and fly the PZ rental
people up to your house to return their truck! IIRC I had to pay 15~25
cents per mile, still high but 79 cents per mile is robbery!
Sonny wrote:
> Bill,
> About a year ago, you asked us to evaluate a Craigslist or estate
> auction tablesaw. Did you ever find a table saw? If you are near
> enough to Waverly, Ohio, there may be a saw, here, within your price
> range:
>
> http://irsauctions.com/index.asp?pg=14&ind=&view=&today=
Hi, Thank you Very Much for the heads-up! I AM still keeping my eyes
open for a TS and it is very kind of you to remember my interest in one.
I might have bought one by by now if I was caught-up with my shop
renovations.
Like you, I too am saddened when I hear about factories closing as in
this case. The people, the community, ... :(
In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
(which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
your thoughtfulness! I will keep your suggestions regarding
upholstering in mind too as I have a "favorite couch" : )
Bill
>
> A side note (rant): This factory is obviously huge. It sure must
> have been quite a blow to the workers/community for it to shut
> down.... I suspect they are/have shut down. I have purchased a few
> items (woodworking tools, industrial upholstery sewing machine,
> hardware items) from this auction site. When I went to pick up my
> items, I spoke with the personnel at the facilities. The companies
> were not retooling, they were being bought out by Chinese based
> franchises.
>
> Though I am retired, I am a certified upholsterer and many customers
> want the best built furniture. They are willing to pay for it, also.
> Most relatively new furniture, I've reupholstered, is foreign made and
> is really poor quality (frame material, foam, construction). For any
> of you looking to buy furniture, look into finding an old American
> made piece and have it reupholstered, rather than settling for this
> newer crap from overseas. Even the foam, in these overseas products,
> is inferior. I've replace lots of inferior foam from some of these,
> so called, "high end" recently purchased (overseas made) furniture
> pieces.
>
> I really dislike seeing our American furniture companies (or any
> American company) disappear, this way.
>
> Sorry for the rant, but some things just rub me the wrong way,
> sometimes.
>
> Bill, despite someone's possible/probable job loss (relative to the
> link), I hope you can find a saw for yourself, if you haven't found
> one, already.
>
> Sonny
Sonny wrote:
> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>
>
> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
> how old that saw is.
>
> Sonny
Thanks for the tips. I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday
using online resources, and failed.
The saw in your previous post looks great. I'll be watching! :)
It's just 211 miles away.
Bill
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Lee Michaels wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote
>>>
>>> I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
>> I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
>> dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.
I sort of smirked when I wrote that, but then I thought these guys will
know exactly what I mean and won't think anything of it. Next time I'll
know better...lol :)
>>
>> (Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by
>> being some damn literal.)
>
> Is this where we merge the thread "Squaring Rough Lumber" with this one, and
> ask if you got blowed by your table saw?
>
Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
> "Bill" wrote
>>
>> I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
> I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
> dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.
I've known plenty of woman that ran like SawStops... ; )
>
> (Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by being
> some damn literal.)
>
>
>
Sonny wrote:
> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>
>
> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
> how old that saw is.
>
> Sonny
I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
dust collection (do you think that is correct?). What would the
"control panel" that is attached to it be for?
BTW, the price went to $400 since yesterday (without any help from me),
and thee is still about 9 days to go... Spent several hours trying to
learn more about the saw--the saw part is 456 pounds (lol) ; )
Bill
Sonny wrote:
>
>> I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
>> dust collection (do you think that is correct?). What would the
>> "control panel" that is attached to it be for?
>> Bill
>
> That black pipe is the over arm blade guard support (see the listed
> amenities) and they are often, at least part of, the dust collection
> feature, as you surmised. Many saws have that kind of blade guard
> attachment, rather than the blade guard attached to the table top,
> behind the blade.
>
> I don't see a control panel on the arm guard. I see a tool rest/cage-
> type thing. Other than that, I see a valve, for adjusting the dust
> collection. The dust ducts, for overhead collection, have,
> apparently, been detached from the saw.
>
> Expect the price to reach $600. I doubt you will find a good used
> Unisaw, anywhere, for less than that. It's a good idea to add the 10%
> auctioneers fee and your travel costs, in determining the max amount
> you are willing to invest in the whole affair. If the bidding reaches
> $800, I would hesitate to bid further.... might as well buy a new saw
> for $1200 - $1400 (?). A new saw comes with a warranty and possibly a
> discounted (additional $, but w/ rebate) mobile base. *Ask if there's
> supposed to be a mobile base for that saw! ...Never can tell, maybe
> there's one hanging around (Not listed on the manifest, but originally
> party to the saw) waiting to be remarried.
>
> Call or email the IRS site's contact person and they can give you the
> Waverly contact person, to get specific info about the item. Should
> you bid and win, make copies of the posted pics, of the saw, before
> going pick it up. You want to make sure everything pictured remains
> intact. If you bid and win, bring tools to disassemble the saw from
> the extension table and a dolly, just in case you have to load
> yourself. It'll be hard to load the whole, as is. If you bid and
> win, ask if they have the paperwork/invoice/instruction/users manual
> for the saw (in the administrative office, somewhere). Try to get
> those items, also, if available, while the getting is good. If the
> saw is not too old, there may be some warrranty remaining.
>
> That IRS link has many other sales. Every now and then a pretty good
> deal, or 2, comes along. You just have to be patient. If not this
> sale, I hope you can eventually find a good saw and nearer to you.
>
> Sonny
>
Thank you, there is a lot of good information in your post! You
answered some of the questions I had, and then some!
I assume a dolly and a rental truck w/a lift gate is the right mechanism
to move and transport a saw like this. Never having used a lift gate
before, I wasn't sure how big of a support area a lift gate had.
Hopefully the transportation costs won't be truly excessive--I'll
investigate that next.
Thank you for giving your perspective on price estimates too. Your
estimate of a new saw at about $1400 was not far off since I was
considering the Grizzly G691.
I finished putting my DP together last night (the time consuming part of
that was "over-building" a baseboard with wheels and legs and taking it
as an opportunity to practice with my router). I found a good deal on a
14" Delta band saw on clearance a number of months ago. I'll start
assembling that today. With these big boxes off of the ground it will
be a lot easier to move a TS in. Your timing in making the Wreck readers
aware of this auction worked out perfect for me!
I need to go check to see if anyone else has bid on the saw since
yesterday...
Bill
Morgans wrote:
> "Bill" wrote
>
> In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
> Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
> (which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
> that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
> your thoughtfulness!
>
> It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and
> get a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can
> find a shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer
> lightweight.
>
> -- Jim in NC
Thanks for the information Jim.
BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?
I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand. Along with the
baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!
Bill
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the information Jim.
>>
>> BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>> base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>> finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>> lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>> casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?
>>
>> I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.
>
> How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?
Morgans gets most of the credit for giving me the idea. It has four 3
1/2" (3.75" long), 3/8" carriage bolts each of which screws into a
threaded insert in the bottom of the frame/base. These allow the bolts
to go 3" into the frame (twobafour). Since the bottom of the wheels
extend about 1 1/4" below the frame, if the screws are tightened enough
the unit stands on its wheels. If they are extended more than 1 1/4"
then the unit will rest on the carriage bolts. I know you get the idea
but I will post a picture after my wife "fixes" our camera.
I haven't actually tried resting the unit the carriage bolts yet. I had
no difficulty testing the DP with the unit on wheels. The force of
gravity along with the friction of the concrete floor is enough to keep
the unit from moving. When I was finished I just moved it 6 feet off to
the side, with ease, swept up, and moved it back just as easy! I
under-estimated how much I would enjoy the ease of pushing it across the
garage floor! I am still respectful of the fact that it could easily
harm person or property if it fell over, so I don't want to suggest that
I push or pull it around in a lackadaisical manner. When it finds it's
place I will slide some wooden blocks underneath the frame for insurance
(although this may be redundant because if a leg/bolt gives, it will
fall to a wheel). Trust me that I'll try not to under-do it!
>
>
>> Along with the
>> baseboard I'm sure it is close to 300#. If it were to tip it is unlikely
>> that I could catch it so I'm glad I don't have to move the DP with a dolly!
>
> I think you meant to say "hand truck", dincha? What you built was a
> dolly.
Type "appliance dolly" into a search engine and see what comes up!
I'm sure you are correct. BTW, I like to think I built a "mobile base"!
I forgot to try riding it down the driveway. :)
>
> And while we're at it, one stands -on- a podium and -at/behind- a
> lectern.</pet peeves>
Didn't know that either! Gosh!
I'm on Day 2 of assembling the BS now. Day 1 involved assembling it's
Delta mobile base, unpacking, cleaning and reading the directions. The
BS assembly work for Day 2 is about to commence. I'm going to go check
out the current price of the TS being auctioned that Sonny referred me
to.. What is your summer project?
Bill
>
> --
> Happiness comes of the capacity to feel deeply, to enjoy
> simply, to think freely, to risk life, to be needed.
> -- Storm Jameson
basilisk wrote:
> On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 23:16:41 -0700, Morgans wrote:
>
>> "Bill" wrote
>>
>> In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
>> Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
>> (which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
>> that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
>> your thoughtfulness!
>>
>> It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and get
>> a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can find a
>> shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer lightweight.
>>
>> -- Jim in NC
>
> I worked in a furniture plant back in an earlier life, most of the table
> saws were set up to do a particular job and even though they may have
> sawn more lumber in a day than a cabinet shop or home user would put
> through it in a lifetime, the trunnions and gear drives on the adjustments
> would be like new even after many years of hard use.
>
> basilisk
I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure that I
won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could do in a
long day.
Bill
Mike Marlow wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>
>>
>> I surprised but pleased to learn that the wear from hard use is likely
>> to be so minimal. Are arbor bearings likely to be in good shape too (I
>> have no idea what's involved in replacing them)? I'm pretty sure
>> that I won't do as much sawing in my lifetime as a factory saw could
>> do in a long day.
>>
>
>
> Bill - you could pay $100 for a 50 year old Craftsman 10" table saw and
> likely, the arbor bearings would be just fine for years to come. You worry
> too much.
>
Thanks Mike. Those things must be make of steel! ; ) It seems like
when people are looking at old saws that's one of the things they check.
I guess that mainly leaves the motor to go bad..
You say I worry too much, but almost half of the time I go through the
Wendy's drive-thru they screw up my order! In my experience, entropy
is NOT on my side... Murphy, too, was a victim of entropy. ; )
Bill
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for the information Jim.
>>>>
>>>> BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>>>> base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>>>> finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>>>> lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>>>> casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?
>
> If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.
Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100018182/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
>
>
>>>> I enjoy that I can move it effortlessly with one hand.
>>>
>>> How do you secure it once you get it situated, Bill?
>>
>> Morgans gets most of the credit for giving me the idea. It has four 3
>> 1/2" (3.75" long), 3/8" carriage bolts each of which screws into a
>> threaded insert in the bottom of the frame/base. These allow the bolts
>> to go 3" into the frame (twobafour). Since the bottom of the wheels
>> extend about 1 1/4" below the frame, if the screws are tightened enough
>> the unit stands on its wheels. If they are extended more than 1 1/4"
>> then the unit will rest on the carriage bolts. I know you get the idea
>> but I will post a picture after my wife "fixes" our camera.
>
> Are the bolts long enough to double-nut and use a socket on an
> electric drill to run up and down? It'll save you a lot of time and
> hassle if you do it that way.
There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
that Brad point bits are great!
<snip>
Bill
Larry Jaques wrote:
>> There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
>> around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
>> that Brad point bits are great!
>
> I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they?
> No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners
> are another treat.
Since we're talking about this. I noticed all of my exit holes came out
without splintering, but I had some splintering where where the (1/2")
bit entered. I was using a variable-speed hand drill. I was wondering
whether to blame this on the drill not being up-to-speed before contact?
Is this the likely culprit?
BTW, same bit on my new DP, speed set to 1500 RPM as per DP guidelines.
No splintering.
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>>> There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
>>> around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
>>> that Brad point bits are great!
>>
>> I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they?
>> No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners
>> are another treat.
>
> Since we're talking about this. I noticed all of my exit holes came out
> without splintering, but I had some splintering where where the (1/2")
> bit entered. I was using a variable-speed hand drill. I was wondering
> whether to blame this on the drill not being up-to-speed before contact?
> Is this the likely culprit?
Hmmm.. another variable. In the case where I got splintering I had
already pre-drilled with 3/16" bit. Is that, more likely, the source of
the splintering.
Bill
Sonny wrote:
> Brad point bit or metal cutting bit?
>
> .... 3) Dull/nicked drill bit, 4) soft or weak wood, 5) ....,
> 6) .....
>
> Sonny
I was using 1/2" Brad point bit. I'm thinking that it was the 3/16"
pre-drilling,or my starting at slow speed. The bits came out cleaner
than they went in. Those 4 holes were for my 1/2" bolts for the metal
DP base. Naturally they didn't quite line up well enough with the 1/2"
holes in the base so I ended up re-drilling them with a 5/8" bit. One
important lesson in the project was "don't make yer tolerances too
tight, or you'll spend a lot of time working around them!"! ;)
Bill
Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Hmmm.. another variable. In the case where I got splintering I had
>> already pre-drilled with 3/16" bit. Is that, more likely, the source of
>> the splintering.
>
> With a brad point, yes, likely the culprit. The guide tit (we'll call
> him Brad for good measure) didn't have anything to grab onto, so when
> the first flute hit (if it weren't exactly vertical) it tried to drill
> an oblong or oversized hole.
Thanks, that makes sense.
> Try to avoid pilot holes in wood unless
> you're using a twist drill in the center of a hole saw and the pilot
> is the same or smaller size than the pilot bit in the saw.
Okay... My technique hasn't caught up with the technology (never used BP
bits before...). I like the BP bits just fine now though. It's great to
be able to bore holes right where you want two!
Bill
>
> --
> The more passions and desires one has,
> the more ways one has of being happy.
> -- Charlotte-Catherine
Thanks again. There is a lot of very good information in your post!
Bill
Sonny wrote:
>
>> I think that black tube that runs behind the saw is part of overhead
>> dust collection (do you think that is correct?). What would the
>> "control panel" that is attached to it be for?
>> Bill
>
> That black pipe is the over arm blade guard support (see the listed
> amenities) and they are often, at least part of, the dust collection
> feature, as you surmised. Many saws have that kind of blade guard
> attachment, rather than the blade guard attached to the table top,
> behind the blade.
>
> I don't see a control panel on the arm guard. I see a tool rest/cage-
> type thing. Other than that, I see a valve, for adjusting the dust
> collection. The dust ducts, for overhead collection, have,
> apparently, been detached from the saw.
>
> Expect the price to reach $600. I doubt you will find a good used
> Unisaw, anywhere, for less than that. It's a good idea to add the 10%
> auctioneers fee and your travel costs, in determining the max amount
> you are willing to invest in the whole affair. If the bidding reaches
> $800, I would hesitate to bid further.... might as well buy a new saw
> for $1200 - $1400 (?). A new saw comes with a warranty and possibly a
> discounted (additional $, but w/ rebate) mobile base. *Ask if there's
> supposed to be a mobile base for that saw! ...Never can tell, maybe
> there's one hanging around (Not listed on the manifest, but originally
> party to the saw) waiting to be remarried.
>
> Call or email the IRS site's contact person and they can give you the
> Waverly contact person, to get specific info about the item. Should
> you bid and win, make copies of the posted pics, of the saw, before
> going pick it up. You want to make sure everything pictured remains
> intact. If you bid and win, bring tools to disassemble the saw from
> the extension table and a dolly, just in case you have to load
> yourself. It'll be hard to load the whole, as is. If you bid and
> win, ask if they have the paperwork/invoice/instruction/users manual
> for the saw (in the administrative office, somewhere). Try to get
> those items, also, if available, while the getting is good. If the
> saw is not too old, there may be some warrranty remaining.
>
> That IRS link has many other sales. Every now and then a pretty good
> deal, or 2, comes along. You just have to be patient. If not this
> sale, I hope you can eventually find a good saw and nearer to you.
>
> Sonny
>
Sonny wrote:
> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>
>
> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
> how old that saw is.
>
> Sonny
Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
Costs:
About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
$140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
$150 to load (estimate was provided)
$100+ for gas
which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
$850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank
you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
Bill
Bill wrote:
> Sonny wrote:
>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>
>>
>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
>> how old that saw is.
>>
>> Sonny
>
>
> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>
> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
> Costs:
>
> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
> $100+ for gas
>
> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>
> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>
> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank
> you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
>
> Bill
do you know anyone with a pickup truck that would help you out? you can rent
a box truck for <50 from uhaul for the day.
chaniarts wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> Sonny wrote:
>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>>
>>>
>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
>>> how old that saw is.
>>>
>>> Sonny
>>
>>
>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>>
>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
>> Costs:
>>
>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
>> $100+ for gas
>>
>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>>
>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>>
>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
>> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank
>> you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
>>
>> Bill
>
> do you know anyone with a pickup truck that would help you out? you can rent
> a box truck for<50 from uhaul for the day.
My neighbor, who has a pickup, would be willing to drive me across
town, but I wouldn't ask him to spend a whole day driving out of state
with me. Not only that, using a pick up may require taking apart the saw
(which Swingman, smartly I think, discouraged).
For those that are interested: Final auction price on the 1999 Unisaw
(36-816), with unifence and overhead guard and fold-down outfeed table,
located in Mid-Ohio, was $1135 + 10% = $1249, plus sales tax of course.
Bill
Bill wrote:
> chaniarts wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> Sonny wrote:
>>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell
>>>> you how old that saw is.
>>>>
>>>> Sonny
>>>
>>>
>>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>>>
>>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
>>> Costs:
>>>
>>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
>>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
>>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
>>> $100+ for gas
>>>
>>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>>>
>>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
>>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>>>
>>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even
>>> buy something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank
>>> you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it!
>>> LOL :) Bill
>>
>> do you know anyone with a pickup truck that would help you out? you
>> can rent a box truck for<50 from uhaul for the day.
>
> My neighbor, who has a pickup, would be willing to drive me across
> town, but I wouldn't ask him to spend a whole day driving out of state
> with me. Not only that, using a pick up may require taking apart the
> saw (which Swingman, smartly I think, discouraged).
the pickup may already have a hitch, saving you the $300, although if you
installed it on your vehicle, then your wife could buy that piano that she's
been wanting.
> For those that are interested: Final auction price on the 1999 Unisaw
> (36-816), with unifence and overhead guard and fold-down outfeed
> table, located in Mid-Ohio, was $1135 + 10% = $1249, plus sales tax
> of course.
> Bill
chaniarts wrote:
> Bill wrote:
>> chaniarts wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> Sonny wrote:
>>>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell
>>>>> you how old that saw is.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sonny
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>>>>
>>>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
>>>> Costs:
>>>>
>>>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
>>>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
>>>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
>>>> $100+ for gas
>>>>
>>>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>>>>
>>>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
>>>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>>>>
>>>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even
>>>> buy something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank
>>>> you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it!
>>>> LOL :) Bill
>>>
>>> do you know anyone with a pickup truck that would help you out? you
>>> can rent a box truck for<50 from uhaul for the day.
>>
>> My neighbor, who has a pickup, would be willing to drive me across
>> town, but I wouldn't ask him to spend a whole day driving out of state
>> with me. Not only that, using a pick up may require taking apart the
>> saw (which Swingman, smartly I think, discouraged).
>
> the pickup may already have a hitch, saving you the $300,
Yes, it does. But I am not willing to drive another man's truck 500
miles. None of the car rental companies are willing to rent a vehicle I
could use for towing. This Unisaw was going to cost north of $2000
after expenses, plus time and effort, and with possible risk during
transport, and no warranty. For $2750 Amazon will deliver a new one to
your door. At least, that was the deal until about 3 weeks ago. Current
3rd party seller wants $3299.
I really did learn alot through this process that will ready me the next
time around. It was actually "over-stimulating". Like I said, next time
I will be ALOT more prepared.
Thanks,
Bill
although if you
> installed it on your vehicle, then your wife could buy that piano that she's
> been wanting.
>
>> For those that are interested: Final auction price on the 1999 Unisaw
>> (36-816), with unifence and overhead guard and fold-down outfeed
>> table, located in Mid-Ohio, was $1135 + 10% = $1249, plus sales tax
>> of course.
>> Bill
>
>
On 6/29/11 8:49 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 6/29/2011 1:46 PM, Bill wrote:
>> Sonny wrote:
>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>>
>>>
>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
>>> how old that saw is.
>>>
>>> Sonny
>>
>>
>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>>
>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
>> Costs:
>>
>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
>> $100+ for gas
>>
>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>>
>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>>
>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
>> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank you
>> folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
>>
>> Bill
>>
> Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
> about $450 for 4 days.
Note he said he needed the hitch first.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 6/29/11 10:19 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, frozenNorth123
> @gm.nospam.ail.com says...
>>
>> On 6/29/11 8:49 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 6/29/2011 1:46 PM, Bill wrote:
>>>> Sonny wrote:
>>>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
>>>>> how old that saw is.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sonny
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>>>>
>>>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
>>>> Costs:
>>>>
>>>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
>>>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
>>>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
>>>> $100+ for gas
>>>>
>>>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>>>>
>>>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
>>>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>>>>
>>>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
>>>> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank you
>>>> folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
>>>>
>>>> Bill
>>>>
>>> Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
>>> about $450 for 4 days.
>>
>> Note he said he needed the hitch first.
>
> Why would he need a hitch to rent a truck?
>
It is listed above as part of the cost of getting a trailer.
Not making excuses for Bill's over thinking of everything.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
Leon wrote:
> Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
> about $450 for 4 days.
Thanks for reminding me about that Leon. I WAS able to locate 22' lift
gate trucks (Penske), but they were not available for "one-way" rental.
The rental price was some nominal amout + .79cents/mile. Of course, at
almost 500 miles, the latter, along with gas, might be significant. As
you may have read, Swingman described your efforts at moving a saw on a
mobile base using a lift gate truck as practically effortless! One thing
is certain, next time I see a saw, I will not have to search for the
answer to the question, as I have done more than once before, "HOW can I
move that saw by tomorrow?"!
For the saw auctioned today, I wasn't even sure how I was going to get
it onto the liftgate by myself so I was tentatively chose the plan which
left me with a trailer hitch.
By the way, Swingman's words weren't wasted on me--mobile bases wouldn't
ship for 5 days--and that was too vague for my purposes now.
Bill
Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
> -------------------------------
> Based on 500 miles usage, 10 MPG,and $4/gal fuel cost, you have about
> $200 total fuel cost.
>
> Rent truck with a "Tommy Gate" mid week, allow $100/day, less than
> $300 total.
Was quoted $49 + .79/mile.
>
> Do some night time driving, you're on the clock.
>
> Less than $500 gets the job done, if you WANT to do it.
>
> Lew
"WANT" is relative. I will want it more when I am more ready to use it.
I built my DP baseboard and assembled my DP and BS this summer. I'm
ready to get going on my lights and painting. Admittedly I got a bit
neglectful while I worried about this TS which I never touched or heard.
I just dated it...and things didn't work out. Maybe if I had touched
her outfeed table things mitre be different... I'll miss her, she had a
nice looking fence.
Bill
Leon wrote:
IIRC I had to pay 15~25
> cents per mile, still high but 79 cents per mile is robbery!
The difference in price may reflect a business versus a non-business
rental. Of course, I am in the later category.
The trucks with lift gates are owned by the local units--at least at
Penske. For just driving a truck back and forth across, 79 cents a mile
is reasonable enough. Clearly it is not as suitable for a long trip.
Next time I ask I will appear more shocked when I am quoted a .79 mile
rate, and I'll tell 'em Leon sent me! : )
Thanks,
Bill
Swingman wrote:
> One person can load a Unisaw, on a mobile base, easily with a pickup
> truck equipped with a Tommylift tail gate.
>
> For a box truck, where the bed is much higher off the ground, two are
> ideal ... one to push the lift gate button, and one to steady the
> extension table (which is hanging off the lift) for the longer trip up.
>
> Neither person has to lift anything.
Thanks for mentioning that part of the process. I had wondered about it.
In a pinch, I could probably find someone to push the button for me! ;)
>
>> By the way, Swingman's words weren't wasted on me--mobile bases wouldn't
>> ship for 5 days--and that was too vague for my purposes now.
>
> A mobile base is almost a necessity for most of us with a cabinet saw,
> unless your shop is so big that you'll only move it once/in.
I will be sure to have a mobile base.
Bill
On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 23:16:41 -0700, Morgans wrote:
> "Bill" wrote
>
> In visiting the site you sent, I started getting exciting over the Delta
> Unisaws...then I noticed that they all appear to use 3-phase power
> (which in retrospect makes sense...). All things considered, I think
> that stops my further consideration of them. Still, thanks again for
> your thoughtfulness!
>
> It could be worth getting one, if you were to sell the motor on it, and get
> a new single phase motor, or have a shop rewind yours, if you can find a
> shop. Saws like these are worth a good bit more than a newer lightweight.
>
> -- Jim in NC
I worked in a furniture plant back in an earlier life, most of the table
saws were set up to do a particular job and even though they may have
sawn more lumber in a day than a cabinet shop or home user would put
through it in a lifetime, the trunnions and gear drives on the adjustments
would be like new even after many years of hard use.
basilisk
On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:12:20 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net> wrote:
>
>
>"Bill" wrote
>>
>> I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
>I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never dated a
>table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.
>
>(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by being
>some damn literal.)
Just turn it on and stick it in, Mr. Liberal. It'll show you a good
time. No formal date is necessary for it to ravish you.
--
Happiness is when what you think, what
you say, and what you do are in harmony.
-- Mahatma Gandhi
On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 17:59:21 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>chaniarts wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>> chaniarts wrote:
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> Sonny wrote:
>>>>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell
>>>>>> you how old that saw is.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sonny
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>>>>>
>>>>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
>>>>> Costs:
>>>>>
>>>>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
>>>>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
>>>>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
>>>>> $100+ for gas
>>>>>
>>>>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>>>>>
>>>>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
>>>>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>>>>>
>>>>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even
>>>>> buy something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank
>>>>> you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it!
>>>>> LOL :) Bill
>>>>
>>>> do you know anyone with a pickup truck that would help you out? you
>>>> can rent a box truck for<50 from uhaul for the day.
>>>
>>> My neighbor, who has a pickup, would be willing to drive me across
>>> town, but I wouldn't ask him to spend a whole day driving out of state
>>> with me. Not only that, using a pick up may require taking apart the
>>> saw (which Swingman, smartly I think, discouraged).
>>
>> the pickup may already have a hitch, saving you the $300,
>
>Yes, it does. But I am not willing to drive another man's truck 500
>miles. None of the car rental companies are willing to rent a vehicle I
>could use for towing. This Unisaw was going to cost north of $2000
>after expenses, plus time and effort, and with possible risk during
>transport, and no warranty. For $2750 Amazon will deliver a new one to
>your door. At least, that was the deal until about 3 weeks ago. Current
>3rd party seller wants $3299.
Yikes! They've gone up! I paid $1600 for my 36-L31X-BC50 two years ago, from
Amazon. I'm looking for a bandsaw now, but I'm not in a hurry.
>I really did learn alot through this process that will ready me the next
>time around. It was actually "over-stimulating". Like I said, next time
>I will be ALOT more prepared.
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 07:10:12 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 6/19/2011 12:39 AM, Bill wrote:
>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>> On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>>> On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for the information Jim.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>>>>>> base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>>>>>> finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>>>>>> lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>>>>>> casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for
>>>>>> long?
>>>
>>> If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.
>>
>> Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
>> http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100018182/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
>
>Maybe, I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels
>broke.
I've had these http://goo.gl/EySsk for years without problems, but
usually on lighter-weight stuff, under #100 load on each wheel.
--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck
On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 01:39:36 -0400, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Sun, 19 Jun 2011 00:24:24 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Larry Jaques wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 18 Jun 2011 04:22:07 -0400, Bill<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the information Jim.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW, you were the person who "sold me" on the idea of building the DP
>>>>> base board with four 4" casters and legs a few months ago. It got
>>>>> finished this week and has a DP sitting on it. Building it taught me a
>>>>> lot of lessons and gave me some practice with my router. Are the
>>>>> casters likely to get a flat side if I let the DP rest on them for long?
>>
>> If you chose wisely, they won't get flats. The softer the worse.
>
>Here's mine: I think I'll be ok.
>http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100018182/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
Yeah, those are hard rubber and should be OK.
>There are probably a few things I would do differently the next time
>around. I learned a lot by doing the project. For instance, I learned
>that Brad point bits are great!
I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they?
No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners
are another treat.
--
Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling.
-- Margaret Lee Runbeck
In article <[email protected]>, Bill <[email protected]> wrote:
>Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Lee Michaels wrote:
>>> "Bill" wrote
>>>>
>>>> I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
>
>>> I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never
>>> dated a table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.
>
>
>I sort of smirked when I wrote that, but then I thought these guys will
>know exactly what I mean and won't think anything of it. Next time I'll
>know better...lol :)
Have you ever made ....
a deck of cards?
Or, when installing a floor-mount mobile two-way rig,
humped a radio?
On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 22:36:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:12:20 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
><leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>"Bill" wrote
>>>
>>> I tried dating one of the table saws yesterday....
>>I consider myself be to fairly sophisticated. But even I have never dated a
>>table saw. I have fondled a few, but never a formal date.
>>
>>(Just goes to show what kind of trouble I get into all the time by being
>>some damn literal.)
>
>Just turn it on and stick it in, Mr. Liberal. It'll show you a good
>time. No formal date is necessary for it to ravish you.
Oh, "liTeral". Never mind.
--
Happiness is when what you think, what
you say, and what you do are in harmony.
-- Mahatma Gandhi
On 6/29/2011 8:09 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
> On 6/29/11 8:49 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 6/29/2011 1:46 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> Sonny wrote:
>>>> On Jun 16, 10:30 am, Sonny<[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> Lot 8072 is single phase:
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You can call Delta, give them the serial number and they can tell you
>>>> how old that saw is.
>>>>
>>>> Sonny
>>>
>>>
>>> Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.
>>>
>>> Issue is transportation (220 miles each way):
>>> Costs:
>>>
>>> About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation
>>> $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental)
>>> $150 to load (estimate was provided)
>>> $100+ for gas
>>>
>>> which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.
>>>
>>> This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw--
>>> $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.
>>>
>>> It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy
>>> something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank you
>>> folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>> Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me
>> about $450 for 4 days.
>
> Note he said he needed the hitch first.
>
Note, you need a hitch to pull the trailer.