I juat received a Yorkcraft 8" jointer and have gotten through most of the
assembly. So far so good, but Ipost a review when everything is tuned. The
drive belt was packaged twisted in a small box and consequently it has
"remembered" this shape. When I fire up the jointer, the belt vibrates
violently. There is so much mass to the machine that not much vabration is
transmitted to the machine, but it is clearly not right.
Should I:
1. Harass Wilke for a replacement (there was bolt missing so I have to bug
them anyway)
2. Use the belt for a while and it will "Learn" a more natural appropriate
shape
3. Increase the belt tension to pull the twist out of it.
4. Accept the fact that fact that Chiwanese machines ship with sh*t-quality
belts and go guy a link belt. (If so what type (are there different
width/profiles?) should I get?
Thanks,
Steve
C & S wrote:
> I juat received a Yorkcraft 8" jointer and have gotten through most
of the
> assembly. So far so good, but Ipost a review when everything is
tuned. The
> drive belt was packaged twisted in a small box and consequently it
has
> "remembered" this shape. When I fire up the jointer, the belt
vibrates
> violently. There is so much mass to the machine that not much
vabration is
> transmitted to the machine, but it is clearly not right.
>
> Should I:
>
> 1. Harass Wilke for a replacement (there was bolt missing so I have
to bug
> them anyway)
> 2. Use the belt for a while and it will "Learn" a more natural
appropriate
> shape
> 3. Increase the belt tension to pull the twist out of it.
> 4. Accept the fact that fact that Chiwanese machines ship with
sh*t-quality
> belts and go guy a link belt. (If so what type (are there different
> width/profiles?) should I get?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
I would (since they are on your call list anyway) try to get them to
send you another belt, but you might get the same thing you already
have. An alternative, albeit more expensive is to take the old belt to
your local auto parts store-- They can measure it for you & sell you an
uncrimped belt-- If you have a tractor supply in your area, their
prices are also competitive, but you won't get the service or knowledge
you will get at the parts store
C & S wrote:
>
...about initial twist in a V-belt...
Just tighten it to normal tension and use it...it will fit in shortly.
It'll stretch out a little after a few weeks, so recheck tension. If
it's a really cheap pos, just replace it w/ a better quality belt of the
same size/type.
I've ogled a lot of Yorkcraft stuff in the catalogs but never seen any
in person. One FWW review I believe indicates at least some of their
jointers are produced in the same Chines factory as the Delta's. Other
than the castings, I'd look at the quality of the pulleys as a factor as
well--that could be one place to save a few pennies on initial
cost/price point.
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I juat received a Yorkcraft 8" jointer and have gotten through most of the
> assembly. So far so good, but Ipost a review when everything is tuned. The
> drive belt was packaged twisted in a small box and consequently it has
> "remembered" this shape. When I fire up the jointer, the belt vibrates
> violently. There is so much mass to the machine that not much vabration is
> transmitted to the machine, but it is clearly not right.
>
> Should I:
>
> 1. Harass Wilke for a replacement (there was bolt missing so I have to bug
> them anyway)
> 2. Use the belt for a while and it will "Learn" a more natural appropriate
> shape
> 3. Increase the belt tension to pull the twist out of it.
> 4. Accept the fact that fact that Chiwanese machines ship with
sh*t-quality
> belts and go guy a link belt. (If so what type (are there different
> width/profiles?) should I get?
>
Chuck it and put the link belt on. You'll be glad you did.
In article <[email protected]>,
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Phil at small (vs at large)" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > -- If you have a tractor supply in your area, their
> > prices are also competitive, but you won't get the service or knowledge
> > you will get at the parts store
>
> The problem with generalities is that they are so easily proven wrong.
Took the words right out of my mouth.There is a farm supply nearby
(Webster's in Wyoming, Ontario) and some of those guys have been there
since Noah planted the seeds which grew the trees which he used to build
the ark... Those guys know everything.
Quite a difference from the guys at the auto parts stores which look at
me as if I have two heads.... I can see the backs of their heads from
the front.. through their eyes. Without the computer.. they'd be dead in
the water.
The guys at Webster know how to fit that kanutin' iron to the
giggle-pin's thingamajig every time. Besides, I get to look at baby
pictures which mysteriously appear from their wallets when I go there...
They know I take mine black.. no sugar, no cream... the only place and
time I will drink coffee.
0¿0
Rob
"Phil at small (vs at large)" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> -- If you have a tractor supply in your area, their
> prices are also competitive, but you won't get the service or knowledge
> you will get at the parts store
The problem with generalities is that they are so easily proven wrong. If I
need a belt, I'll go to the local tractor supply because they give better
service and know 10X what anyone at the counter of our local auto parts
store. They are also more likely to have some tips on installation too.
Some good hardware stores that do service on power tools, mowers, etc, will
have a good selection as do some industrial supply houses. In any case, the
quality of the belt is going to be equal and probably better than the OEM
that you have.
"C & S" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I juat received a Yorkcraft 8" jointer and have gotten through most of the
> assembly. So far so good, but Ipost a review when everything is tuned. The
> drive belt was packaged twisted in a small box and consequently it has
> "remembered" this shape. When I fire up the jointer, the belt vibrates
> violently. There is so much mass to the machine that not much vabration is
> transmitted to the machine, but it is clearly not right.
>
> Should I:
>
> 1. Harass Wilke for a replacement (there was bolt missing so I have to bug
> them anyway)
> 2. Use the belt for a while and it will "Learn" a more natural appropriate
> shape
> 3. Increase the belt tension to pull the twist out of it.
> 4. Accept the fact that fact that Chiwanese machines ship with
sh*t-quality
> belts and go guy a link belt. (If so what type (are there different
> width/profiles?) should I get?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
I'm UK so usual disclaimers.
Check your belt, there should be a number on it. Record this for reference.
Try the supplier, you've got nothing to loose.
If that fails, take the old belt to a power transmission specialist. We have
many. their main sales are bearings. Try bearing sales in Yellow Pages.
They will be able to identify the belt for you in US references which may be
different to that on the belt. They can also supply the replacement in good
quality. Even if the supplier comes up with a new belt, keep the old one for
reference when you need a routine replacement.
John