Hi,
I want to make small models of trains (passenger cars, cabooses, tanks
etc.) from wood. I am very new in this and would like to know the
following basic questions:
- How the scaling/measurement would be done
- What type of wood would be needed for this
- What type of hand tools/other tools would be required
- What type of paint shall be used
I would be grateful if anyone could help me on this.
Thanking you in anticipation.
Regards,
Riz Abbasi
"Riz" wrote in message
> I would be grateful if anyone could help me on this.
In case you're not acquainted with some of the often useless, Google
centric, replies you see on these forums, Bruce took the time to do a
remarkably thorough job of answering all your questions.
... he didn't leave much left to add, except to appreciate his advice and
take it to heart.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/05
Hi Riz,
An answer to one of your questions is a scaling wheel. It converts
various scales. For example if you want 1 inch = 3 feet, you turn the
inner wheel to a setting on the outer wheel and the proper conversions are
shown on the reverse side. This saves a lot of calculating. Available at
art/drafting supply stores. JG
Riz wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I want to make small models of trains (passenger cars, cabooses, tanks
> etc.) from wood. I am very new in this and would like to know the
> following basic questions:
>
> - How the scaling/measurement would be done
> - What type of wood would be needed for this
> - What type of hand tools/other tools would be required
> - What type of paint shall be used
>
> I would be grateful if anyone could help me on this.
>
> Thanking you in anticipation.
>
> Regards,
>
> Riz Abbasi
Although not for trains, the ship model FAQ
(http://home.att.net/~ShipModelFAQ/) has a number of items you might
find of use (e.g., scale calculators, etc.)
John Kopf
Riz wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I want to make small models of trains (passenger cars, cabooses, tanks
> etc.) from wood. I am very new in this and would like to know the
> following basic questions:
>
> - How the scaling/measurement would be done
> - What type of wood would be needed for this
> - What type of hand tools/other tools would be required
> - What type of paint shall be used
>
> I would be grateful if anyone could help me on this.
>
> Thanking you in anticipation.
>
> Regards,
>
> Riz Abbasi
Riz wrote:
> Thanks a lot for the detailed information.
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
> Riz Abbasi
>=20
A couple of addons - I find a scroll saw much more useful for model=20
parts. Go here and look at the Olson Scroll saw Blade collection -- that =
should tell you why...
http://tufftooth.com/
A knife for carving parts -- see Lee Valley I like the Veritas knife.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/Search.aspx?c=3D2&action=3Dn
I got some flexcut knives for carving -- I also used them for making toy =
train cars and carving jewel box detail...
www.woodcarve.netfirms.com
http://www.woodcarve.netfirms.com/flex_cut_tool_introduction.htm
I got the palm tools that plug into a handle.
Architectural/engineering scale rulers are in my collection for drawing=20
-- easy to use -- no conversion required as in the wheel idea.
And of course accurate drawing tools (compass, rulers, protractor) --=20
Staedler Mars or better... See Currys drafting tools. Proper selection=20
of harder lead pencils etc...
http://www.currys.com/indexeg.asp
Balsa may be light -- but it is stable and strong. Bass wood does deform =
with moisture -- at least on large parts -- as does white pine --=20
another relatively stable material in small pieces.
For carved parts Bass wood carves like cheese...
For colours look at acrylic paints -- see Curry's.
Lee valley also carries kits of the hard to find parts for cars, and=20
trains and planes -- then you can supply the rest of the wood.
Look up kits, wheels, mechanical and mechanical book at Lee valley...
Kidder has model parts... good to deal with.
http://www.kidder.ca/
See atlas Machinery on my web page for metal lathes, Taige lathes etc...
We have a King rotary tool -- but they don't have a router base -- so we =
got the dremel version with fences etc.
Someone here published a web link to model building site -- I have not=20
seen him post in a while. Perhaps someone recalls the link..
Last but not least -- go to my links page -- I will be surprised if some =
of the other links don't pan out on something you need.
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
"Riz" <[email protected]> writes:
> I want to make small models of trains (passenger cars, cabooses, tanks
> etc.) from wood. I am very new in this and would like to know the
> following basic questions:
I'm not a miniaturist, so I can't give you experienced advice.
Having said that - Get the Micro-Mark catalog. http://www.micromark.com/
They specialize in tools for miniatures and model builders.
>- How the scaling/measurement would be done
There are standard scales used. Perhaps 1 inch == 1 foot (1:12 scale).
This makes it easier to convert (6 feet = 6 inches).
But decide on the scale early on. You need to be consistent, and you
need to find matching items. People, building, trees, barrels, etc.
All are available at hobby shops if you pick the right scale.
>- What type of wood would be needed for this
Generally basswood. Balsa is too soft to work with. You can also get thin
pieces of mahogany. But basswood is strong, light colored, and
generally free of knots and imperfections.
>- What type of hand tools/other tools would be required
A Dremel (or Foredom) tool can be very versatile. It can be a router,
a drill press, a cut-off saw, etc.
For detail cutting, you can use a coping saw or jeweler's saw.
There is a bench V block that is important. You clamp it onto your bench and
it allows you to make fine cuts in thin wood.
One picture of such a device is http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Sawclamp.jpg
Here's the one on Micro-mark:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=20127
I have never used them, but I would imagine a quality miniature table
saw would be very useful. You can use a hand saw, but cutting a dozen
pieces the same size would be difficult unless you had a jig to ensure
the same dimensions. (i.e. a cross-cut table with stop blocks).
Micro-Mark has miniature table saws for small pieces. I've seen other
saws at Woodcraft. Brand names are Microlux and Proxxon.
Here is another one site I googled: http://www.preac.com/
They make miniature saws, sanders, etc.
I would imagine the small lathes for pens would be suitable for
miniatures. They go for about $50-$250.
I would guess the first power tool you get in a dremel/foredom.
Next, a table saw. I don't know your budget.
>- What type of paint shall be used
Check the Micro-mark catalog. I think they have videos. Some of the
results they get are amazing. I love how they add weathering to the
models - to make them look older.
There are special magazines and forums for scale model builders. Good luck.
It looks like fun.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
Riz wrote:
> Thanks for the detailed answer.=20
>=20
> Good day!
>=20
> Riz
>=20
Just make sure you post pictures when you build stuff...
:-)
--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw
--WebTV-Mail-3752-167
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
riz I would definately recomend the dremel,
as was stated , lots of options and sanding attachments cutting and
polishing etc, a scroll saw would be great too, if you have the cash
to play with, I would also say LOOK at Xacto
which has a full line of various types and sizes and blade
combinations for knives for detailing as well as minnie mitre type hand
saws and other stuff you would be interested in you might consider
a minne vise to hole small parts and even some of those small spring
clip clamps for glueing some partsnaturally with experiance and time
you will coe up with other tools and inovations for your self...
hopefully, you will look into finding some modelrairoading issues
which usually features some scratch built items either rolling stock
or
stuff to make it look real, but its a great place to give you ideas or
even compare your ideas to others :) along with all the working tools
be sure you have great seating and bench to work on and great lighting
it can make all the differance in the world.. as far as paint goes
you can use anything from model paint to an airbrush and even spray
rustoleum if you play around and experiment (think outsode the spray
paint box a little ) and use stuff around the house to age or detail
.. etc paint say a tank car with red primer lightly dont try to
cover it totally, and then overspray with the "car color" leaving
areas of rust colored primer showing through once that drys use like
some charcol , some ash tray ashes or fireplace ashes to tone down
the newness of the paints
think artistictly a tanker might have spill streaks around the dome
with years of spills of nasty chemicals the paint might be attacked and
paintless metal rusts in streaks ... that is the finer art of
modeling , making them look real..!! make sure you have lots of fun
doing them .. and yes take some pics and post em!!!
Justin
--WebTV-Mail-3752-167
Content-Description: signature
Content-Disposition: Inline
Content-Type: Text/HTML; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit
<html>
<body>
<body
bgcolor="black"
text="coral" link="black" vlink="white"
</body>
</html>
--WebTV-Mail-3752-167--
WillR <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
> Balsa may be light -- but it is stable and strong. Bass wood does deform with moisture -- at least on large parts -- as does white pine --
> another relatively stable material in small pieces.
Very good stability and workability for "sheet goods" you get from
birch plywood, for model building you get from 3 plys and 0.8mm
thichness upward in small (sheet of paper) sizes very stable stuff.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23