I have the pages up now for the new version of my drum sander. I do
have a couple of kits available for sale so I apologize for the
slightly spammy nature of this post, but the plans are up there for
free and I hope it will be of benefit to those thinking about building
one of these.
http://www.krtwood.com/ww/sander2/
-Kevin
On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:27:16 +0100, [email protected] wrote
(in article
<[email protected]>):
>> 2 How's the drum made?
>
> It may not have made it obvious enough, but there are a bunch of pages up
> there explaining everything with photos, there's an index of the links off to
> the right of the photo. But basically, it's just a bunch of MDF circles. I
> had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw them as they don't need to
> be accurate. Once it's all glued up you true it up by attaching sandpaper to
> a block of wood and just raise up the table until it's true. If you want to
> spiral wrap paper on it that's all you need to do besides figure out a way to
> clamp the paper at the edges. But I use a wedge clamping method to use
> regular sheet paper, so there's a slot cut in the drum and evenly spaced
> threaded inserts.
Ta.
I missed the links, sorry. I assumed you'd lathed them somehow.
The "no need to be accurate" but is interesting. Hadn't thought about the
centrifugal self-limiting idea but it obviously bears closer scrutiny. I've
seen the sand_flee video and that makes great capital of the ultra accurate
machining that it employs so impressively.
Hmmm.. More than one slot and make it a big flap wheel? It'd use smaller
sheets
Plenty of info now. I should be able to sit on the porch and whittle one up
from an old log :-)
On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 23:27:53 +0100, Lew Hodgett wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Good idea. You need a finished diameter around 3.5", give or take,
>> to
>> fit sheet paper wrapped the long way so a 3-3/4" hole saw is
>> probably
>> about right, maybe 4" depending on the how thick the teeth are.
>
> Trying to generate 3-1/2" slugs using a hole saw and a drill press
> will at best a slow job, not only the cutting, but especially when it
> comes to getting the slug out of the hole saw.
>
> Think I'd consider a BIG table mounted router /w/ a BIG straight bit,
> and a clamping jig that will allow moving the jig /w/ the piece into
> the cutter, then rotating to finish cut the blank.
>
> Lew
>
>
or maybe knock up a simple router lathe, running a router along an mdf track
with a "log" turned by hand between centres below it..
\
no, hang that.. you're right. Do it on a router table with a free-moving jig
- a frame with two end-screws supporting yer log/composite, turn it and slide
it along the drum axis, over the bit. Turn a bit more and make another
pass... then raise the bit a tad and repeat. Tedious but maybe bearable for
a one-off. Like a 3d version of cutting circles with a table saw jig.
OR
use drain pipe with two routed end cheeks, an end-to-end slot with an
internal backing piece to take your wedgie
stack of mis-burned CDRs ?
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote
Great looking unit. Nice work.
Building machines from wood reminds me of how you can often tell what
trade a guy is in by looking at his pickup truck. Carpenters will
often have a nice plywood and 2-b-for frame. A wood worker has spar
varnished oak rails, a plumber a rack made from pipe, etc.
This extends to other areas too. I have a neighbor, obviously a sheet
metal guy. About half of the 4x4 post and two rail fence on his corner
lot has rotted away. He is replacing it with sheetmetal studs which
after painting look pretty much like the rest of the wood fence.
==============
I know of what you speak.
I used to build gym equipment. We made most of our equipment with steel
square tubing. And we used a lot of pulleys and cable. Using those materials
and skill set, I have built a lot of things that raised some eyebrows. But
it is what I know and it is sturdy!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:49e28700-9f1b-4f78-bc34-22f9c22bf90e@j12g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
>I have the pages up now for the new version of my drum sander. I do
> have a couple of kits available for sale so I apologize for the
> slightly spammy nature of this post, but the plans are up there for
> free and I hope it will be of benefit to those thinking about building
> one of these.
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/ww/sander2/
>
>
> -Kevin
Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
This ain't spam. This is sharing some wildly creative garage engineering
with us. Aren't you the guy who makes those mad creative jewelery boxes?
This is more of the creative side of you. We love to see that sort of
thing. I read the whole thing through. To tell the truth, I would have
never thought of doing something like this. Good on ya Kevin.
I put this post right up there with the best of Swingman's posts. There are
some folks who really CONTRIBUTE when it comes to informative
websites/posts. You and swingman are in that catagory.
Again, this ain't spam. This is the good stuff. Feel free to create
anything else you desire, document it and share it with us. We will lap it
up and feel a little envious/unworthy.But that is OK. And I have to say it
again.
Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
--
On Apr 10, 4:32 pm, Tom Veatch <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 12:55:36 -0500, "Leon"
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> [email protected] wrote:
> >>> But basically, it's just a bunch
> >>> of MDF circles. I had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw
> >>> them as they don't need to be accurate. -Kevin
>
> >> Would it be easier for someone with a good lathe to make one?
>
> >I think the trick would be to have the center shaft perfectly centered. ...
>
> Since they don't need to be that accurate, a hole saw will give you
> disks with a centered hole. That's the technique I generally use when
> I need small disks with an approximate diameter and a centered hole.
Good idea. You need a finished diameter around 3.5", give or take, to
fit sheet paper wrapped the long way so a 3-3/4" hole saw is probably
about right, maybe 4" depending on the how thick the teeth are.
-Kevin
On Apr 10, 7:12 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
> > Trying to generate 3-1/2" slugs using a hole saw and a drill press
> > will at best a slow job, not only the cutting, but especially when it
> > comes to getting the slug out of the hole saw.
>
> > Think I'd consider a BIG table mounted router /w/ a BIG straight bit,
> > and a clamping jig that will allow moving the jig /w/ the piece into
> > the cutter, then rotating to finish cut the blank.
>
> > Lew
>
> Or make one with the hole saw, and the rest on the router with a pattern
> bit.
Well, if I were doing it I'd still go with the band saw. Cut a bunch
of 4" squares, drill the 5/8" holes in the center. Stack 4-5 at a
time on a dowel for the cutting. No need to use a circle cutting jig,
it doesn't have to be that accurate.
-Kevin
[email protected] wrote:
> I have the pages up now for the new version of my drum sander. I do
> have a couple of kits available for sale so I apologize for the
> slightly spammy nature of this post, but the plans are up there for
> free and I hope it will be of benefit to those thinking about building
> one of these.
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/ww/sander2/
I liked "Version I" pretty well - and I like this one even better.
Kosher spam :-)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
On Apr 10, 1:34 pm, -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > But basically, it's just a bunch
> > of MDF circles. I had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw
> > them as they don't need to be accurate.
> > -Kevin
>
> Would it be easier for someone with a good lathe to make one?
I don't think so. It really only takes a few minutes to true it, and
not only do you get it rounded but you also get it parallel to the
table at the same time. In practice it doesn't stay *perfectly*
parallel once you move it up and down a few times, but what's a few
thou between friends. The difficult part is the groove, installing
the threaded inserts, and making the wedges.
-Kevin
Great looking unit. Nice work.
Building machines from wood reminds me of how you can often tell what
trade a guy is in by looking at his pickup truck. Carpenters will
often have a nice plywood and 2-b-for frame. A wood worker has spar
varnished oak rails, a plumber a rack made from pipe, etc.
This extends to other areas too. I have a neighbor, obviously a sheet
metal guy. About half of the 4x4 post and two rail fence on his corner
lot has rotted away. He is replacing it with sheetmetal studs which
after painting look pretty much like the rest of the wood fence.
On Apr 9, 11:18=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> I have the pages up now for the new version of my drum sander. =A0I do
> have a couple of kits available for sale so I apologize for the
> slightly spammy nature of this post, but the plans are up there for
> free and I hope it will be of benefit to those thinking about building
> one of these.
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/ww/sander2/
>
> -Kevin
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Good idea. You need a finished diameter around 3.5", give or take,
> to
> fit sheet paper wrapped the long way so a 3-3/4" hole saw is
> probably
> about right, maybe 4" depending on the how thick the teeth are.
Trying to generate 3-1/2" slugs using a hole saw and a drill press
will at best a slow job, not only the cutting, but especially when it
comes to getting the slug out of the hole saw.
Think I'd consider a BIG table mounted router /w/ a BIG straight bit,
and a clamping jig that will allow moving the jig /w/ the piece into
the cutter, then rotating to finish cut the blank.
Lew
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] wrote:
>> But basically, it's just a bunch
>> of MDF circles. I had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw
>> them as they don't need to be accurate. -Kevin
>
> Would it be easier for someone with a good lathe to make one?
I think the trick would be to have the center shaft perfectly centered.
But, perhaps if you could mount the shaft with the pieces already mounted...
Maybe even tweak the drum in the machine by running a board with PSA paper
attached to sand the drum... Basically work it backwards.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Apr 9, 7:46 pm, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
>
> Baby! This is a baby:
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=825629&FamilyID=4943
No kidding, I was actually considering that one a couple of years ago, but
thought that the 16/32 would be the better choice. My wife talked me into
the 22/44. I find it adequate and am perfectly happsy with it. I shutter
to think having to do some of the things that I do with the smaller models.
Concerning yours, it appears to be a manual feed style, correct? Strictly
light pass? Have you ever considered the Sand Flee?
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149212&FamilyID=61030
Or in kit form,
http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/119
It seems that it would accomplish the same thing with an easier and less
complex build.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:49e28700-9f1b-4f78-bc34-22f9c22bf90e@j12g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
>I have the pages up now for the new version of my drum sander. I do
> have a couple of kits available for sale so I apologize for the
> slightly spammy nature of this post, but the plans are up there for
> free and I hope it will be of benefit to those thinking about building
> one of these.
>
> http://www.krtwood.com/ww/sander2/
>
>
> -Kevin
It does not even have the hint of Spam smell. ;~) Why not? Because you
contribute!
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon wrote:
>>> Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
>>
>>
>> Ok Lee, the machine is "cool" and appears to be well thought out. Cute?,
>> A baby drum sander? I immediately pictured my ND neighbor making a
>> similar comment about a 2k walnut desk I had just completed for a
>> customer. He is a little light in his loafers. ;~)
>
> Every time my wife sees a Ferrari, Lambo, Porche or other very cool
> looking European sports car, she says, "ahh, that's a cute little car."
And that is the perfect comment, she is a "girl". LOL
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:aebc930d-b071-49d0-8923-9b82cf4e77e1@s20g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>
> I don't know how the results compare to a performax. I am sure with
> the conveyor you can get more consistent results, and not get a
> workout using it. You're doing the work of that ~1/6 hp feed motor.
> Pricewise it sure beats the pants of it though, especially if you
> already have a motor.
>
> -Kevin
Thanks for the explanation Kevin. It makes more sense to me now. One thing
in particular I enjoyed using my drum sander for was making jewelry box
drawers fit with even spacing. My 12 drawer chests have 4 different height
drawers and I cut the drawers to fit the opening exactly. Then I sand the
top and bottoms of the drawer assemblies to get the perfect gap on top and
bottom.
On Apr 9, 7:46 pm, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
wrote:
> Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
Baby! This is a baby:
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=825629&FamilyID=4943
The original version I could pick up and move around. I am not sure
how much this one weighs but I sure can't pick it up.
> This ain't spam.
Yeah, I know. Just wanted to give people a heads up there was
something for sale in there.
-Kevin
On Apr 10, 9:48 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > On Apr 9, 7:46 pm, "Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >> Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
>
> > Baby! This is a baby:
>
> >http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=825629&FamilyID=4943
>
> No kidding, I was actually considering that one a couple of years ago, but
> thought that the 16/32 would be the better choice. My wife talked me into
> the 22/44. I find it adequate and am perfectly happsy with it. I shutter
> to think having to do some of the things that I do with the smaller models.
>
> Concerning yours, it appears to be a manual feed style, correct? Strictly
> light pass?
It really depends on the stock. I make a lot of dovetailed cedar
boxes for a wholesale client. I start out with rough 4/4 which is
usually about 1-1/8 to start with from my supplier. That gets resawn
in half at the band saw and then I make some pretty aggressive passes
through the drum sander with 60 grit. But try that with hard maple
and you'll just destroy the paper.
> Have you ever considered the Sand Flee?
>
> http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=149212&FamilyID=61030
>
> Or in kit form,
>
> http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/119
>
> It seems that it would accomplish the same thing with an easier and less
> complex build.
But you can't sand to a thickness with that. With the case of the
dovetail parts, I may not care what the actual final thickness ends up
being but I do care that all ~50 pieces are the same thickness. I
don't even own a planer, haven't felt the need for one. I either buy
s2s or I resaw and sand it. With figured woods, or anything with
knots, you're going to need to make several passes to get out the
tearout, and like a jointer sure you could get away with just a light
pass but start making many passes and who knows if your surfaces are
going to still be parallel.
I use it all the time in fitting parts to a groove or slot, sometimes
it makes more sense to do that than to fit the groove to the part.
For example when I make jewelry box drawer dividers, the slots in the
dividers are a saw kerf wide and they need to fit perfectly.
The other nice thing about the way the paper is attached is you can
have multiple grits on the drum at the same time, without losing any
of the drum. Apparently with the sand flee you can use multiple grits
too, but with the spiral wrapping you're going to lose an area in the
middle where the grits are overlapping each other. Typically I have
60 grit on half and 120 on the other half. As long as it's less than
9" wide I don't have to change the paper.
I don't know how the results compare to a performax. I am sure with
the conveyor you can get more consistent results, and not get a
workout using it. You're doing the work of that ~1/6 hp feed motor.
Pricewise it sure beats the pants of it though, especially if you
already have a motor.
-Kevin
On Apr 9, 4:08 pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Great looking unit. Nice work
Well it looks a lot better than the old one, that's for sure. I don't
worry about what things for the shop look like too much, just so long
as they do the job. But it's going to look pretty spiffy once I get
the table covered in stainless :)
-Kevin
On Apr 10, 11:47 am, Bored Borg <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Hell, that's pretty
>
> Not in the market yet, but long term I may get lustful.. I was considering a
> face drum sander but I can see advantages here too.
>
> 1 Howsabout considering shipping to the land of our own dear Queen?
I'm only doing a handful of these. I had visions of selling them when
I first came up with the second design a few years back and ordered a
bunch of parts, but I am not set up as an LLC and the liability issues
are more than I want to deal with. Plus I'm busy enough doing actual
woodworking now I'd rather concentrate on that. So I just want to
sell what I have on hand, and if someone else wants to run with making
the kits they're more than welcome, the plans are there for anyone to
use and improve upon.
> 2 How's the drum made?
It may not have made it obvious enough, but there are a bunch of pages
up there explaining everything with photos, there's an index of the
links off to the right of the photo. But basically, it's just a bunch
of MDF circles. I had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw
them as they don't need to be accurate. Once it's all glued up you
true it up by attaching sandpaper to a block of wood and just raise up
the table until it's true. If you want to spiral wrap paper on it
that's all you need to do besides figure out a way to clamp the paper
at the edges. But I use a wedge clamping method to use regular sheet
paper, so there's a slot cut in the drum and evenly spaced threaded
inserts.
-Kevin
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Well, if I were doing it I'd still go with the band saw. Cut a
> bunch
> of 4" squares, drill the 5/8" holes in the center. Stack 4-5 at a
> time on a dowel for the cutting. No need to use a circle cutting
> jig,
> it doesn't have to be that accurate.
Your production requirements would appear to be at best only modest
and as you indicate, accuracy is not a high priority.
Lew
On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 22:27:53 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Trying to generate 3-1/2" slugs using a hole saw and a drill press
>will at best a slow job, not only the cutting, but especially when it
>comes to getting the slug out of the hole saw.
Fly cutter
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
>
> This ain't spam. This is sharing some wildly creative garage engineering
> with us. Aren't you the guy who makes those mad creative jewelery boxes?
> This is more of the creative side of you. We love to see that sort of
> thing. I read the whole thing through. To tell the truth, I would have
> never thought of doing something like this. Good on ya Kevin.
>
> I put this post right up there with the best of Swingman's posts. There
> are some folks who really CONTRIBUTE when it comes to informative
> websites/posts. You and swingman are in that catagory.
>
> Again, this ain't spam. This is the good stuff. Feel free to create
> anything else you desire, document it and share it with us. We will lap
> it up and feel a little envious/unworthy.But that is OK. And I have to
> say it again.
>
> Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
Ok Lee, the machine is "cool" and appears to be well thought out.
Cute?, A baby drum sander? I immediately pictured my ND neighbor making a
similar comment about a 2k walnut desk I had just completed for a customer.
He is a little light in his loafers. ;~)
Leon wrote:
>> Ahhhhh...., that is so cute!! A baby drum sander.
>
>
> Ok Lee, the machine is "cool" and appears to be well thought out.
> Cute?, A baby drum sander? I immediately pictured my ND neighbor making a
> similar comment about a 2k walnut desk I had just completed for a customer.
> He is a little light in his loafers. ;~)
>
Every time my wife sees a Ferrari, Lambo, Porche or other very cool
looking European sports car, she says, "ahh, that's a cute little car."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
[email protected] wrote:
> But basically, it's just a bunch
> of MDF circles. I had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw
> them as they don't need to be accurate.
> -Kevin
Would it be easier for someone with a good lathe to make one?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
>> Would it be easier for someone with a good lathe to make one?
>
>
> I think the trick would be to have the center shaft perfectly centered.
> But, perhaps if you could mount the shaft with the pieces already mounted...
>
I was thinking, lathe, because the whole thing looks like a giant pen
kit. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Trying to generate 3-1/2" slugs using a hole saw and a drill press
> will at best a slow job, not only the cutting, but especially when it
> comes to getting the slug out of the hole saw.
>
> Think I'd consider a BIG table mounted router /w/ a BIG straight bit,
> and a clamping jig that will allow moving the jig /w/ the piece into
> the cutter, then rotating to finish cut the blank.
>
> Lew
>
Or make one with the hole saw, and the rest on the router with a pattern
bit.
(deja vu)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
: [email protected] wrote:
:> But basically, it's just a bunch
:> of MDF circles. I had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw
:> them as they don't need to be accurate.
:> -Kevin
: Would it be easier for someone with a good lathe to make one?
I think you'd need a metalworking lathe. It's actually quite hard to
turn a perfect cyclinder freehand on a wood lathe -- you ca get close, but I
end up taping sandpaper to a flat surface and using that for the final truing.
-- Andy Barss
On Fri, 10 Apr 2009 12:55:36 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>> But basically, it's just a bunch
>>> of MDF circles. I had 100 of them CNC'd, but you can just band saw
>>> them as they don't need to be accurate. -Kevin
>>
>> Would it be easier for someone with a good lathe to make one?
>
>
>I think the trick would be to have the center shaft perfectly centered. ...
Since they don't need to be that accurate, a hole saw will give you
disks with a centered hole. That's the technique I generally use when
I need small disks with an approximate diameter and a centered hole.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA