I currently have a smaller sized cordless drill (12v) but it works well
in most cases. I have had trouble with it when Im trying to drive into
harder woods. I do drill a pilot hole but I would like to look into
getting an impact driver (if necessary- if will help). I was looking at
the Makita impact driver drill (14.4v) and it seems to be stronger. Is
this even necessary for wood working? I am just wondering because
sometimes I try to force the screw in so much that my hand slips or the
screw is stripped. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
"gwoodwork" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I currently have a smaller sized cordless drill (12v) but it works well
> in most cases. I have had trouble with it when Im trying to drive into
> harder woods. I do drill a pilot hole but I would like to look into
> getting an impact driver (if necessary- if will help). I was looking at
> the Makita impact driver drill (14.4v) and it seems to be stronger. Is
> this even necessary for wood working? I am just wondering because
> sometimes I try to force the screw in so much that my hand slips or the
> screw is stripped. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
Bigger pilot holes and a lube such as wax. As for the impact driver, it
will certainly do the job but not with as much control as with the cordless
drill. I have the 12 volt Makita impact driver and it will effortlessly
drive a 3" #8 screw all the way through a 3" thick piece of maple. Way too
much potential power with potential of broken screws or going too far in.
It is how ever a great secondary tool to for the tough jobs.
A quickie. Makita makes a couple of quarter inch 14.4 volt impact
drivers. The newer model is the 6935 and has true variable speed, full
torque at all speeds. Costal is selling it, with the 14.4 volt dirll
head at $209.
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/makita/6935fdwde.htm?L+coastest+fmdk7876ff42eb42+1116469973.
On the other hand, at other places, you could pay more and get the
older 6932 model (which Makita does not claim to have "true" variable
speed). For example at McFeely's, $249.95.
Your choice. But I like the greater control full torque at low rpm's
gives with the new model.
ray
Your right. The difference is that in setting a long screw best
practice is to slow as the screw head approaches the surface. With
the newer model, each hammer blow will have full force. The better
control makes it easier to set the screw flush and makes the absence of
a clutch less noticeable.
Impact drivers have significantly greater torque than their
drill/driver cousins. At 14 volts the drill/drivers have around
300-400 inch/lbs versus the 1400 for the 6935 impact driver.
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On 18 May 2005 22:08:25 -0700, the inscrutable [email protected]
> spake:
>
> >Your right. The difference is that in setting a long screw best
> >practice is to slow as the screw head approaches the surface.
With
> >the newer model, each hammer blow will have full force. The better
> >control makes it easier to set the screw flush and makes the absence
of
> >a clutch less noticeable.
> >
> >Impact drivers have significantly greater torque than their
> >drill/driver cousins. At 14 volts the drill/drivers have around
> >300-400 inch/lbs versus the 1400 for the 6935 impact driver.
>
> And you remove the need to really bear down on the head to keep the
> screwdriver blade in the slots. I could drive a 3" screw with that
> Bosch Impactor with thumb and forefinger. I'm SOLD on that technology
> and the Bosch implementation of it.
>
>
> ------------------------------------------
> Do the voices in my head bother you?
> ------------------------------------------
> http://diversify.com Full-Service Web Development
The performance is really impressive. While standing on a ladder, with
arm fully extended above my head, I drove a 3.5 inchers into the wall.
No way I would have had the leverage with a drill/driver to have done
it.
Sometimes I think Makita is just dumping its inventory of drills by
bundling them with an impact driver. It is as if they know the market
is going to switch to impact drivers. And the market for drill/drivers
will shrink. Since getting an impact driver, my drill/driver is
virtually unused.
FWIW, what is unique about Bosch's implementation?
ray
I use the Makita 14.4V impact driver. The recommendations below are
the right way to go. Square-drive screws will make the difference.
The problems with the impact driver in this situation are:
- Yes, it is quite a bit stronger than a 12V cordless (non-impact).
- There is NO CLUTCH on the impact driver, it's ON or OFF.
- In soft woods, screw heads will simply be driven below the surface
- In harder woods, the screw shank will twist off just below the head
It's a great tool, but I would not recommend it for this application.
On Tue, 17 May 2005 01:22:35 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, "gwoodwork" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I currently have a smaller sized cordless drill (12v) but it works well
>>in most cases. I have had trouble with it when Im trying to drive into
>>harder woods. I do drill a pilot hole but I would like to look into
>>getting an impact driver (if necessary- if will help). I was looking at
>>the Makita impact driver drill (14.4v) and it seems to be stronger. Is
>>this even necessary for wood working? I am just wondering because
>>sometimes I try to force the screw in so much that my hand slips or the
>>screw is stripped. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
>
>Drill larger pilot holes in harder woods; lubricate the screws with paste wax;
>and switch to Robertson (square drive) screws.
Disclaimer: McFeely's sells Makita impact drivers, so take this advise with
a grain of salt.
I have used Makita Impact drivers extensively to drive Square Drive Screws
(Robertson Recess) in both hardwoods and softwoods. I put down a lot of IPE
decking using a 12v model, installing #10 x 3-1/2 screws in predrilled holes
(necessary in IPE). The 12v model is ideal for just about every woodworking
project except decking, and I make that that exception is due primarily to
the fact that a 12v will require battery charging too frequently for my
taste. I even used an impact driver to snug the nuts on 1/2" bolts, but then
needed to finish the job with a big wrench.
Impact drivers are generally variable speed, so even though they do not have
a clutch, you have relatively precise control over the amount of torque
applied. The biggest advantage of an impact driver is that screws require
almost no axial pressure to drive. You can practically hold the driver with
two fingers and drive screws in many instances.At the end of the day, that
is a real advantage.
Are impact drivers perfect for every application? No. I would not use one to
drive solid brass screws when installing hinges on a box, for instance. But
in circumstances requiring that you drive lots of screws, they really make
life easier.
BTW: there is a great special going on now: Buy a Makita 12v or 14.4v impact
driver and get a driver / drill of the same voltage for free! (applies to
certain models only, of course).
HTH,
Jim Ray, President
McFeely's Square Drive Screws
www.mcfeelys.com
"gwoodwork" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I currently have a smaller sized cordless drill (12v) but it works well
> in most cases. I have had trouble with it when Im trying to drive into
> harder woods. I do drill a pilot hole but I would like to look into
> getting an impact driver (if necessary- if will help). I was looking at
> the Makita impact driver drill (14.4v) and it seems to be stronger. Is
> this even necessary for wood working? I am just wondering because
> sometimes I try to force the screw in so much that my hand slips or the
> screw is stripped. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
On 18 May 2005 22:08:25 -0700, the inscrutable [email protected]
spake:
>Your right. The difference is that in setting a long screw best
>practice is to slow as the screw head approaches the surface. With
>the newer model, each hammer blow will have full force. The better
>control makes it easier to set the screw flush and makes the absence of
>a clutch less noticeable.
>
>Impact drivers have significantly greater torque than their
>drill/driver cousins. At 14 volts the drill/drivers have around
>300-400 inch/lbs versus the 1400 for the 6935 impact driver.
And you remove the need to really bear down on the head to keep the
screwdriver blade in the slots. I could drive a 3" screw with that
Bosch Impactor with thumb and forefinger. I'm SOLD on that technology
and the Bosch implementation of it.
------------------------------------------
Do the voices in my head bother you?
------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Full-Service Web Development
Thanks for pointing out the functional difference. I have the 6932
which I purchased for $10 more at Coastal than the new package. Since
my use with decks is mostly full-on, I would not have noticed the low
rpm action.
On 18 May 2005 03:00:00 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>A quickie. Makita makes a couple of quarter inch 14.4 volt impact
>drivers. The newer model is the 6935 and has true variable speed, full
>torque at all speeds. Costal is selling it, with the 14.4 volt dirll
>head at $209.
>http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/makita/6935fdwde.htm?L+coastest+fmdk7876ff42eb42+1116469973.
>
>On the other hand, at other places, you could pay more and get the
>older 6932 model (which Makita does not claim to have "true" variable
>speed). For example at McFeely's, $249.95.
>
>Your choice. But I like the greater control full torque at low rpm's
>gives with the new model.
>
>ray
On 19 May 2005 14:16:31 -0700, the inscrutable [email protected]
spake:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On 18 May 2005 22:08:25 -0700, the inscrutable [email protected]
>> spake:
>> >Impact drivers have significantly greater torque than their
>> >drill/driver cousins. At 14 volts the drill/drivers have around
>> >300-400 inch/lbs versus the 1400 for the 6935 impact driver.
>>
>> And you remove the need to really bear down on the head to keep the
>> screwdriver blade in the slots. I could drive a 3" screw with that
>> Bosch Impactor with thumb and forefinger. I'm SOLD on that technology
>> and the Bosch implementation of it.
>The performance is really impressive. While standing on a ladder, with
>arm fully extended above my head, I drove a 3.5 inchers into the wall.
>No way I would have had the leverage with a drill/driver to have done
>it.
I compared that with working bent over, assembling a framing wall on
the ground. What a difference!
>Sometimes I think Makita is just dumping its inventory of drills by
>bundling them with an impact driver. It is as if they know the market
>is going to switch to impact drivers. And the market for drill/drivers
>will shrink. Since getting an impact driver, my drill/driver is
>virtually unused.
I'm sure the bulk of new sales will be the impact drivers and suspect
you're right about Makita's scheme (and I like it, too.) There are a
lot of us screwers out here. <vbg>
>FWIW, what is unique about Bosch's implementation?
I really haven't tried any of the others but was impressed with the
full Bosch line at their tool truck a few weeks ago. I had heard of
their reputation but hadn't handled any charged tools until then;
theirs or the other expensive lines like Milwaukee/DeWalt/Panasonic.
As to uniqueness, I liked the little aimable LED illuminator in the
base. Bosch tools are more ergonomically built than most of the tools
I own, including lots of really nice user-friendly gadgets and just
a good, solid feel to them. The Bosch Impactor I tried fit my hand
better than the 18v DeWalt drill driver I had previously tried.
Looking at the array of impact drivers at www.Coastaltool.com , I feel
that the Hibachi WH12DMR is simply hideous.
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In article <[email protected]>, "gwoodwork" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I currently have a smaller sized cordless drill (12v) but it works well
>in most cases. I have had trouble with it when Im trying to drive into
>harder woods. I do drill a pilot hole but I would like to look into
>getting an impact driver (if necessary- if will help). I was looking at
>the Makita impact driver drill (14.4v) and it seems to be stronger. Is
>this even necessary for wood working? I am just wondering because
>sometimes I try to force the screw in so much that my hand slips or the
>screw is stripped. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
Drill larger pilot holes in harder woods; lubricate the screws with paste wax;
and switch to Robertson (square drive) screws.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?