"MaxD" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
plywood?(Baltic Birch)
I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
TIA.
----------------------------------------------------
3M 5200
HD should have it.
Lew
On 2/27/2013 7:48 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:512ea628$0$59602$c3e8da3
> [email protected]:
>
>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>
> Screws.
>
> What's the application, specifically?
>
I am making a dust "shroud", "blade enclosure", whatever the appropriate
terminology might be to describe a device to collect dust over a table
saw blade.
I'm making the sides out of Birch ply and the top out of 1/4" acrylic.
Similar to this:
http://tinyurl.com/d8lsjgz
Max
On 2/28/2013 7:34 AM, chaniarts wrote:
> On 2/27/2013 5:34 PM, MaxD wrote:
>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>> TIA.
>>
>> Max
>
> silicone.
Well, I was planning on using silicone to seal any openings that need
it. So...
On 02/28/2013 07:21 PM, MaxD wrote:
> On 2/28/2013 7:34 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>> On 2/27/2013 5:34 PM, MaxD wrote:
>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>>> TIA.
>>>
>>> Max
>>
>> silicone.
>
> Well, I was planning on using silicone to seal any openings that need
> it. So...
Looks like simple screws through the plexi/acrylic into the wood. If
the plexi/acrylic is shaped properly to match the curvature of the wood
sides, screws should be all that is required. There wouldn't be enough
air leakage to make a difference. Most of the leakage will come through
the bottom which rides on the work piece.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
On 3/1/2013 5:32 AM, Ken Moffett wrote:
> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> On 2/27/2013 6:17 PM, G.W.Ross wrote:
>>> On 2/27/2013 7:34 PM, MaxD wrote:
>>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic)
>>>> to plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it
>>>> so...anything else? TIA.
>>>>
>>>> Max
>>>
>>> http://www.thistothat.com
>>>
>>
>> Cool web site, thanks
>
> I'd recommend polycarbonate (Lexan) over acrylic (Plexiglas). If
> struck, acrylic will shatter into sharp bits. Lexan is the
> prefered plastic for guards.
>
> Ken
>
I already had the acrylic but I agree with you on the poly.
In the particular application I intend I would "hope" the plastic
doesn't get struck. ;-)
Max
On 3/1/2013 6:28 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:5130102b$0$64368$c3e8da3
> [email protected]:
>
>> On 2/27/2013 7:48 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>>> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:512ea628$0$59602$c3e8da3
>>> [email protected]:
>>>
>>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>>>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>>>
>>> Screws.
>>>
>>> What's the application, specifically?
>>>
>>
>> I am making a dust "shroud", "blade enclosure", whatever the appropriate
>> terminology might be to describe a device to collect dust over a table
>> saw blade.
>> I'm making the sides out of Birch ply and the top out of 1/4" acrylic.
>
> NO!!
>
> Don't use acrylic for this application, it's not impact-resistant. Use polycarbonate instead.
>
> And why make the sides out of wood? Why not make the whole thing out of polycarbonate?
>
Since this project is a "prototype" I will very likely build a Lexan
model. I'm primarily interested in determining how well the device
collects dust from the table top and establishing a method of mounting
the rest of the "system". I will have photos when I try it out.
On 2/28/2013 11:08 PM, Richard wrote:
> On 2/28/2013 8:21 PM, MaxD wrote:
>> On 2/28/2013 7:34 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>>> On 2/27/2013 5:34 PM, MaxD wrote:
>>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>>>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>>>> TIA.
>>>>
>>>> Max
>>>
>>> silicone.
>>
>> Well, I was planning on using silicone to seal any openings that need
>> it. So...
>
> May I try to talk you out of that?
>
> Silicone tends to "poison" the surface of anything that it is used on.
> Nothing else will ever stick to it again.
> If repairs are ever needed that could cause all manner of problems.
>
>
> Use 5200 as the adhesive, and as the seal.
>
> Good stuff, Maynard.
Thanks, Richard. I'm getting more votes for the 5200. ;-)
Max
On 3/1/2013 8:56 AM, Han wrote:
> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in
>> Since this project is a "prototype" I will very likely build a Lexan
>> model. I'm primarily interested in determining how well the device
>> collects dust from the table top and establishing a method of mounting
>> the rest of the "system". I will have photos when I try it out.
>
> Keep us abreast of your findings! I have an old Craftsman tablesaw with
> a blade-shroud, but no suction. I think it is acrylic, but am not sure.
> Finding a really good way to add suction there would be good ...
>
Will do.
Max
"MaxD" wrote:
>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>>
>> Screws.
>>
>> What's the application, specifically?
>>
>
> I am making a dust "shroud", "blade enclosure", whatever the
> appropriate terminology might be to describe a device to collect
> dust over a table saw blade.
> I'm making the sides out of Birch ply and the top out of 1/4"
> acrylic.
> Similar to this:
> http://tinyurl.com/d8lsjgz
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Based on the tinyurl above, there is absolutely nothing to be gained
using 3M-5200.
Avoid acrylic like it was the plague because it will shatter from
almost
any contact by a chip thrown from the saw blade.
Use 1/4" polycarbonate (Lexan) and attach with some #10, pan head,
S/S, coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws.
Drill 7/32" clearance holes in the Lexan and 9/64" pilot drill in the
wood.
You need to provide some clearance between Lexan and fastener to
accommodate the difference in thermal expansion.
You can also make use of a 1,500 W heat gun to aid the Lexan
conforming to the shape of the wood.
Shoot a couple of coats of shellac to finish the job.
Have fun.
Lew
coarse thread
On 3/1/2013 1:32 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:5130c0cf$0$64340$c3e8da3
> [email protected]:
>
>>
>> Since this project is a "prototype" I will very likely build a Lexan
>> model. I'm primarily interested in determining how well the device
>> collects dust from the table top and establishing a method of mounting
>> the rest of the "system". I will have photos when I try it out.
>
> In that case... make the entire prototype out of wood. Why bother using plastic for *any* of it?
>
'Cause I have the plastic (several scraps) and I thought it would be
nice to see what's happening under the device. (what should I call this
thing anyway)
I put it together with epoxy and it seems sufficiently sturdy for
experimenting.
I'm taking the advice of those who recommend
1. Lexan
2. Making it all plastic. (I can get the adhesive the same place I get
the Lexan) (Baker Glass & Plastics, El Paso)
Meanwhile I'm figgerin' out the rest of the apparatus and how to mount
the "thing".
On 3/1/2013 2:42 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "MaxD" wrote:
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> Based on the tinyurl above, there is absolutely nothing to be gained
> using 3M-5200.
>
> Avoid acrylic like it was the plague because it will shatter from
> almost
> any contact by a chip thrown from the saw blade.
The working model will be all Lexan.
>
> Use 1/4" polycarbonate (Lexan) and attach with some #10, pan head,
> S/S, coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws.
I will use the adhesive for polycarbonate.
> Drill 7/32" clearance holes in the Lexan and 9/64" pilot drill in the
> wood.
> You need to provide some clearance between Lexan and fastener to
> accommodate the difference in thermal expansion.
Thanks for that tip!
>
> You can also make use of a 1,500 W heat gun to aid the Lexan
> conforming to the shape of the wood.
I have a good heat gun but I think I'll avoid trying to create any
curved surfaces.
> Shoot a couple of coats of shellac to finish the job.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
> coarse thread
>
Many Thanks Lew.
Max
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>
> "MaxD" wrote:
>> The working model will be all Lexan.
> --------------------------------------------------
> In that case, stop by a hobby shop and get a tube of
> plastic model airplane glue.
>
Hobby shop??
They were quite common years ago. The last hobby shop around here died 5
years ago. I don't even know if there are any around here any more. I
understand on of the reasons is that all the manufacturers of various
military gear, trucks, etc insisted on big buck royalties for making models
of their products. Congress was supposed to change that, but they never
did. Guess they were too busy playing fiscal chicken.
Anyway, because of that, there is almost no more models any more. Unless
there has been a development lately that I never heard of. Doncha feel old?
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>>
>> "MaxD" wrote:
>>> The working model will be all Lexan.
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> In that case, stop by a hobby shop and get a tube of
>> plastic model airplane glue.
>>
"Lee Michaels" wrote:
> Hobby shop??
>
> They were quite common years ago. The last hobby shop around here
> died 5 years ago. I don't even know if there are any around here
> any more. I understand on of the reasons is that all the
> manufacturers of various military gear, trucks, etc insisted on big
> buck royalties for making models of their products. Congress was
> supposed to change that, but they never did. Guess they were too
> busy playing fiscal chicken.
>
> Anyway, because of that, there is almost no more models any more.
> Unless there has been a development lately that I never heard of.
> Doncha feel old?
-------------------------------------------
Yep.
Oh well google "testors plastic cement".
Somebody still sells it.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in news:5131a522$0$38949
[email protected]:
>
> Yep.
>
> Oh well google "testors plastic cement".
>
> Somebody still sells it.
>
> Lew
Check walthers.com They not only have a hobby shop locator, but a huge
catalog their dealers can order from. There's usually no extra charge for
shipping, but it does take a few days depending on the shop.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On 3/1/2013 10:48 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>>
>> "MaxD" wrote:
>>> The working model will be all Lexan.
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> In that case, stop by a hobby shop and get a tube of
>> plastic model airplane glue.
>>
> Hobby shop??
>
> They were quite common years ago. The last hobby shop around here died
> 5 years ago. I don't even know if there are any around here any more.
> I understand on of the reasons is that all the manufacturers of various
> military gear, trucks, etc insisted on big buck royalties for making
> models of their products. Congress was supposed to change that, but
> they never did. Guess they were too busy playing fiscal chicken.
>
> Anyway, because of that, there is almost no more models any more.
> Unless there has been a development lately that I never heard of.
> Doncha feel old?
>
towerhobbies.com
Been doing business with them for many years.
http://tinyurl.com/becy5oo
Max
"MaxD" wrote:
> towerhobbies.com
>
> Been doing business with them for many years.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/becy5oo
------------------------------------------------
Looks like an RC unit.
RC was just starting when I got out.
During those years it was either U-Control or
free flight, 1/2 A (0.049 cubic inch) max for power.
Didn't have to chase it so far to retrieve it.
Used a fuse to activate de-thermalizer.
What engine do you have in it?
Lew
"Richard" wrote:
>
> Ask around for fuse these days and see who comes to visit!
----------------------------------------------------------------
Back then, you made your own fuses.
As a pimple faced kid, got some funny looks when I asked the
druggest for salt-peter the first time.<G>
Druggist knew my dad.
No problem getting mason's twine.<G>
Lsw
On 3/2/2013 3:58 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "MaxD" wrote:
>
>> towerhobbies.com
>>
>> Been doing business with them for many years.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/becy5oo
>
> ------------------------------------------------
> Looks like an RC unit.
>
> RC was just starting when I got out.
>
> During those years it was either U-Control or
> free flight, 1/2 A (0.049 cubic inch) max for power.
>
> Didn't have to chase it so far to retrieve it.
>
> Used a fuse to activate de-thermalizer.
>
> What engine do you have in it?
>
> Lew
>
Had to think about that for awhile. It's been quite a few years. I
believe that plane had a K&B .40
Futaba radio.
"MaxD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 3/2/2013 3:58 PM, >>
>>> towerhobbies.com
>>>
>>> Been doing business with them for many years.
>>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/becy5oo
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> What engine do you have in it?
------------------------------------------------------
"MaxD" wrote:
> Had to think about that for awhile. It's been quite a few years. I
> believe that plane had a K&B .40
> Futaba radio.
------------------------------------------------------
Looks like some things have stood the test of time.
K&B was a major engine supplier after WWII.
How many channels on the radio?
Lew
On 3/3/2013 8:30 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "MaxD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 3/2/2013 3:58 PM, >>
>>>> towerhobbies.com
>>>>
>>>> Been doing business with them for many years.
>>>>
>>>> http://tinyurl.com/becy5oo
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------------------
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> What engine do you have in it?
> ------------------------------------------------------
> "MaxD" wrote:
>
>> Had to think about that for awhile. It's been quite a few years. I
>> believe that plane had a K&B .40
>> Futaba radio.
> ------------------------------------------------------
> Looks like some things have stood the test of time.
>
> K&B was a major engine supplier after WWII.
>
> How many channels on the radio?
>
> Lew
>
Six.
We have an RC group here, "EL Paso Radio Controllers".
Several of the members were ex RCAT fliers for target practice at Fort
Bliss. They were really good.
There was a guy who used to stop by every now and then whose name You
might remember, Frank Borman. He owns a big auto dealership in Las
Cruces, NM
(35 miles N. of El Paso)
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> How many channels on the radio?
---------------------------------------
"MaxD" wrote:
> Six.
> We have an RC group here, "EL Paso Radio Controllers".
> Several of the members were ex RCAT fliers for target practice at
> Fort Bliss. They were really good.
> There was a guy who used to stop by every now and then whose name
> You might remember, Frank Borman. He owns a big auto dealership in
> Las Cruces, NM
> (35 miles N. of El Paso)
----------------------------------------------------------
Back in the dark ages, 2 channels (elevator & rudder) was about it.
Engine and wheel control was still a wet dream.
RE: Frank Borman.
Same guy who was president of Eastern Airlines after being a space
jockey?
Lew
On 3/4/2013 8:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
>> How many channels on the radio?
> ---------------------------------------
>
> "MaxD" wrote:
>
>> Six.
>> We have an RC group here, "EL Paso Radio Controllers".
>> Several of the members were ex RCAT fliers for target practice at
>> Fort Bliss. They were really good.
>> There was a guy who used to stop by every now and then whose name
>> You might remember, Frank Borman. He owns a big auto dealership in
>> Las Cruces, NM
>> (35 miles N. of El Paso)
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Back in the dark ages, 2 channels (elevator & rudder) was about it.
>
> Engine and wheel control was still a wet dream.
>
> RE: Frank Borman.
>
> Same guy who was president of Eastern Airlines after being a space
> jockey?
>
> Lew
>
Last time I dropped by the RC flying field I was stunned by the advances
in Radio Control. I didn't have my camera but I will the next chance I get.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aV7beyFqE3g
That's the man. Interesting person.
http://www.bormanautoplex.com/
On Sat, 02 Mar 2013 00:24:06 -0600, Richard <[email protected]>
>BIG on-line model forum.
>Lot's of plans, tips, builders,projects, etc
>http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php
And, here's another large hobby shop.
http://www.micromark.com/
On 3/2/2013 4:58 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "MaxD" wrote:
>
>> towerhobbies.com
>>
>> Been doing business with them for many years.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/becy5oo
>
> ------------------------------------------------
> Looks like an RC unit.
>
> RC was just starting when I got out.
>
> During those years it was either U-Control or
> free flight, 1/2 A (0.049 cubic inch) max for power.
>
> Didn't have to chase it so far to retrieve it.
>
> Used a fuse to activate de-thermalizer.
>
> What engine do you have in it?
>
> Lew
>
>
>
Ask around for fuse these days and see who comes to visit!
MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:512ea628$0$59602$c3e8da3
[email protected]:
> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
Screws.
What's the application, specifically?
MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 2/27/2013 6:17 PM, G.W.Ross wrote:
>> On 2/27/2013 7:34 PM, MaxD wrote:
>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic)
>>> to plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it
>>> so...anything else? TIA.
>>>
>>> Max
>>
>> http://www.thistothat.com
>>
>
> Cool web site, thanks
I'd recommend polycarbonate (Lexan) over acrylic (Plexiglas). If
struck, acrylic will shatter into sharp bits. Lexan is the
prefered plastic for guards.
Ken
MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:5130102b$0$64368$c3e8da3
[email protected]:
> On 2/27/2013 7:48 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:512ea628$0$59602$c3e8da3
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>>
>> Screws.
>>
>> What's the application, specifically?
>>
>
> I am making a dust "shroud", "blade enclosure", whatever the appropriate
> terminology might be to describe a device to collect dust over a table
> saw blade.
> I'm making the sides out of Birch ply and the top out of 1/4" acrylic.
NO!!
Don't use acrylic for this application, it's not impact-resistant. Use polycarbonate instead.
And why make the sides out of wood? Why not make the whole thing out of polycarbonate?
MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 3/1/2013 6:28 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:5130102b$0$64368$c3e8da3
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>> On 2/27/2013 7:48 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>>>> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:512ea628$0$59602$c3e8da3
>>>> [email protected]:
>>>>
>>>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>>>>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>>>>
>>>> Screws.
>>>>
>>>> What's the application, specifically?
>>>>
>>>
>>> I am making a dust "shroud", "blade enclosure", whatever the
>>> appropriate terminology might be to describe a device to collect
>>> dust over a table saw blade.
>>> I'm making the sides out of Birch ply and the top out of 1/4"
>>> acrylic.
>>
>> NO!!
>>
>> Don't use acrylic for this application, it's not impact-resistant.
>> Use polycarbonate instead.
>>
>> And why make the sides out of wood? Why not make the whole thing out
>> of polycarbonate?
>>
>
> Since this project is a "prototype" I will very likely build a Lexan
> model. I'm primarily interested in determining how well the device
> collects dust from the table top and establishing a method of mounting
> the rest of the "system". I will have photos when I try it out.
Keep us abreast of your findings! I have an old Craftsman tablesaw with
a blade-shroud, but no suction. I think it is acrylic, but am not sure.
Finding a really good way to add suction there would be good ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:5130c0cf$0$64340$c3e8da3
[email protected]:
>
> Since this project is a "prototype" I will very likely build a Lexan
> model. I'm primarily interested in determining how well the device
> collects dust from the table top and establishing a method of mounting
> the rest of the "system". I will have photos when I try it out.
In that case... make the entire prototype out of wood. Why bother using plastic for *any* of it?
MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 3/1/2013 1:32 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
>> MaxD <[email protected]> wrote in news:5130c0cf$0$64340$c3e8da3
>> [email protected]:
>>
>>>
>>> Since this project is a "prototype" I will very likely build a
>>> Lexan model. I'm primarily interested in determining how well
>>> the device collects dust from the table top and establishing a
>>> method of mounting the rest of the "system". I will have
>>> photos when I try it out.
>>
>> In that case... make the entire prototype out of wood. Why
>> bother using plastic for *any* of it?
>>
>
> 'Cause I have the plastic (several scraps) and I thought it
> would be nice to see what's happening under the device. (what
> should I call this thing anyway)
> I put it together with epoxy and it seems sufficiently sturdy
> for experimenting.
> I'm taking the advice of those who recommend
> 1. Lexan
> 2. Making it all plastic. (I can get the adhesive the same place
> I get the Lexan) (Baker Glass & Plastics, El Paso)
>
> Meanwhile I'm figgerin' out the rest of the apparatus and how to
> mount the "thing".
>
Good luck with it! Post photos when it's done, and let us know how
well it collects the dust.
On 2/28/2013 8:21 PM, MaxD wrote:
> On 2/28/2013 7:34 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>> On 2/27/2013 5:34 PM, MaxD wrote:
>>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
>>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
>>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
>>> TIA.
>>>
>>> Max
>>
>> silicone.
>
> Well, I was planning on using silicone to seal any openings that need
> it. So...
May I try to talk you out of that?
Silicone tends to "poison" the surface of anything that it is used on.
Nothing else will ever stick to it again.
If repairs are ever needed that could cause all manner of problems.
Use 5200 as the adhesive, and as the seal.
Good stuff, Maynard.
On Feb 28, 9:31=A0pm, Doug Winterburn <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 02/28/2013 07:21 PM, MaxD wrote:
>
> > On 2/28/2013 7:34 AM, chaniarts wrote:
> >> On 2/27/2013 5:34 PM, MaxD wrote:
> >>> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to
> >>> plywood?(Baltic Birch)
> >>> I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else?
> >>> TIA.
>
> >>> Max
>
> >> silicone.
>
> > Well, I was planning on using silicone to seal any openings that need
> > it. So...
>
> Looks like simple screws through the plexi/acrylic into the wood. =A0If
> the plexi/acrylic is shaped properly to match the curvature of the wood
> sides, screws should be all that is required. =A0There wouldn't be enough
> air leakage to make a difference. =A0Most of the leakage will come throug=
h
> the bottom which rides on the work piece.
Pan head screws. Flat heads will split acrylic like wedges.
On 3/1/2013 11:48 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote ...
>>
>> "MaxD" wrote:
>>> The working model will be all Lexan.
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> In that case, stop by a hobby shop and get a tube of
>> plastic model airplane glue.
>>
> Hobby shop??
>
> They were quite common years ago. The last hobby shop around here died 5
> years ago. I don't even know if there are any around here any more. I
> understand on of the reasons is that all the manufacturers of various
> military gear, trucks, etc insisted on big buck royalties for making
> models of their products. Congress was supposed to change that, but they
> never did. Guess they were too busy playing fiscal chicken.
>
> Anyway, because of that, there is almost no more models any more. Unless
> there has been a development lately that I never heard of. Doncha feel old?
>
>
>
BIG on-line model forum.
Lot's of plans, tips, builders,projects, etc
http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php