There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that usually
cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that cuts on
the pull stroke.
The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed saws
I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull stroke
like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find one
to buy?
John Martin <[email protected]> wrote in
news:24bfd575-9938-473f-ad92-a47cf3e37f2a@x16g2000prn.googlegroups.com:
>
> You can't seem to find one to buy because you wouldn't like it after
> you bought it. It wouldn't work very well.
>
> You need downward pressure on the teeth to get them to cut. With a
> normal Disston-type handsaw, having the handle well above the line of
> the teeth gives you quite a bit of downward pressure - on the push
> stroke. On the pull stroke, though, it tends to lift the teeth out of
> the cut.
>
> If you look at a typical crosscut tooth, you'll find that the rake
> angle is not that much different on the front and back of the tooth.
> I've seen saws filed with equal angles front and back. A Disston-type
> handsaw will cut on the backstroke, but only if you add downward
> pressure to the cut. That's awkward to do with that style handle.
>
> A good saw shop can easily wipe out the teeth on your handsaw and re-
> cut them so that they are facing backwards. Try it. Don't use a good
> saw, though - I don't think you'll like it.
>
> John Martin
Is there any reason to sharpen the back of the tooth on a hand saw, then?
Other than being part of the tips, it would seem that the back of the
tooth's main job is cleaning out saw dust.
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
John Martin <[email protected]> wrote in
news:00637f46-d937-428a-81d0-c2eca630a3f4@b31g2000prf.googlegroups.com:
>
> You do get a small bit of cutting action on the backstroke. It's
> probably the best way to start the cut accurately.
>
> If you've ever sharpened a handsaw, though, you already know the
> reason. Traditional crosscut and rip saws are sharpened with
> triangular (three-corner) files. To get the angles right, the file is
> laid into the gullet so that it bears against the front side of one
> tooth and the back of another. When you stroke it, both sides are
> sharpened. It would be difficult to sharpen the fronts without
> sharpening the backs.
>
> Cleaning out the sawdust is done on the cutting stroke - it is carried
> forward in the gullets. You get a little on the top side of the
> board, but the great majority of it is on the bottom side. If it's
> not, then you're loading up the saw by cutting too thick a piece with
> teeth too fine.
>
> John Martin
>
Triagular file? Hm... looks like that tool will reduce the work of
sharpening by half. I'll have to get one.
I did mine with a flat file, so I had to sharpen both sides of the tooth.
Puckdropper
--
If you're quiet, your teeth never touch your ankles.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
On Nov 3, 1:53=A0am, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>
> Is there any reason to sharpen the back of the tooth on a hand saw, then?=
=A0
> Other than being part of the tips, it would seem that the back of the
> tooth's main job is cleaning out saw dust.
>
> Puckdropper
> --
You do get a small bit of cutting action on the backstroke. It's
probably the best way to start the cut accurately.
If you've ever sharpened a handsaw, though, you already know the
reason. Traditional crosscut and rip saws are sharpened with
triangular (three-corner) files. To get the angles right, the file is
laid into the gullet so that it bears against the front side of one
tooth and the back of another. When you stroke it, both sides are
sharpened. It would be difficult to sharpen the fronts without
sharpening the backs.
Cleaning out the sawdust is done on the cutting stroke - it is carried
forward in the gullets. You get a little on the top side of the
board, but the great majority of it is on the bottom side. If it's
not, then you're loading up the saw by cutting too thick a piece with
teeth too fine.
John Martin
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> under 20 bucks. If that's not big enough he can find a 15" and an 18"
> from the same company--Sears doesn't stock them though--googling
> 10-2315 and 10-2318 will find a wealth of suppliers for those--Amazon
Wrong style. I'm looking for a full sized (22"+ blade, style below) European
type saw that cuts on the pull stroke. Similar as below, same type of
handle, similar blade, only teeth cut on the pull stroke.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=46886&cat=1,42884
"Phil Again" <notwantspam_@_1-2-3-4.nospam> wrote in message
> Aside: did you also look at Lee Valley for Japanese hand saws? That
> place is rated as a 'Tool Porn' site as it has so-o-o many *must* have
Yes, I've been through all of LV's push to cut saws. They're all the little
Japanese type models. I wonder if Veritas might consider designing what I'm
looking for? The reason I'm asking is that I bought an Irwin tool box sized
saw about a year ago from LV. I didn't even realize that it cut on the push
stroke until I got it home and used it. I liked it immensely. So, that's why
I'm inquiring.
> prevent the blade from buckling on the cut stroke which is why American
> and European saws are so thick, or have bent metal on the back side.
Such a saw as I'm looking for wouldn't have to be as thick or as heavy as
European saws. To me anyway, that transfers to easier use and not as much
effort by hand muscles to grasp a handle as one might think.
> your hand getting muscle cramps gripping the handle for the pull stroke is
> another topic.
Funny you mention that. I use a wheelchair, so the height and angle I'd cut
from is largely hand muscle controlling the cut over that of arm strength. ~
another reason why I'm inquiring about this.
On Nov 1, 9:55=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that usual=
ly
> cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that cuts o=
n
> the pull stroke.
>
> The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed s=
aws
> I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
>
> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull strok=
e
> like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find o=
ne
> to buy?
You can't seem to find one to buy because you wouldn't like it after
you bought it. It wouldn't work very well.
You need downward pressure on the teeth to get them to cut. With a
normal Disston-type handsaw, having the handle well above the line of
the teeth gives you quite a bit of downward pressure - on the push
stroke. On the pull stroke, though, it tends to lift the teeth out of
the cut.
If you look at a typical crosscut tooth, you'll find that the rake
angle is not that much different on the front and back of the tooth.
I've seen saws filed with equal angles front and back. A Disston-type
handsaw will cut on the backstroke, but only if you add downward
pressure to the cut. That's awkward to do with that style handle.
A good saw shop can easily wipe out the teeth on your handsaw and re-
cut them so that they are facing backwards. Try it. Don't use a good
saw, though - I don't think you'll like it.
John Martin
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> Is there any reason to sharpen the back of the tooth on a hand saw, then?
> Other than being part of the tips, it would seem that the back of the
> tooth's main job is cleaning out saw dust.
I'd guess that the weight of the saw and the sharpness of the teeth would
contribute to cutting too, just not as much with a normal push stroke.
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Amazon has a 26" push pull hand saw that may interest you. It is a bit
> pricey.
I found the Stiletto 26" saw at Magnum tools. It's $20 cheaper than the 22".
There's an excellent change I'll buy one and let you know how I like it if I
do. Thanks.
"John Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> You can't seem to find one to buy because you wouldn't
> like it after you bought it. It wouldn't work very well.
> You need downward pressure on the teeth to get them to cut. With a
> normal Disston-type handsaw, having the handle well above the line of
> the teeth gives you quite a bit of downward pressure - on the push
> stroke. On the pull stroke, though, it tends to lift the teeth out of
> the cut.
I use a wheelchair John. Able bodied people stand above the work they're
cutting and use their body as a major part of the force needed for a push to
cut stroke. That's not something I can do anymore. Typically, when I use a
handsaw, I *am* pulling on a downward angle, so the type of saw I'm looking
for is exactly what I need and what I want. I've also got a smaller toolbox
saw with that cuts on the pull stroke and it works great as far as I'm
concerned.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> under 20 bucks. If that's not big enough he can find a 15" and an 18"
> from the same company--Sears doesn't stock them though--googling
> 10-2315 and 10-2318 will find a wealth of suppliers for those--Amazon
> lists both for aroune 20 bucks and shipping.
Wrong style. I'm looking for a full sized (22"+ blade, style below) European
type saw that cuts on the pull stroke. Similar as below, same type of
handle, similar blade, only teeth cut on the pull stroke.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=46886&cat=1,42884
On Nov 2, 8:16=A0am, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Upscale" wrote
>
>
>
> > "Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
> >> I think you can find such a thing at Lowe's and Home Depot. I have a
> > Stanley
> >> tool box saw that cuts on both strokes. I never use it, but then I don=
't
> >> like pull stroke saws.
>
> > I'll have to visit a Lowe's, but there aren't any at the HD that I visi=
t.
> > Of
> > course, that doesn't say much since stock seems to vary between stores
> > from
> > what I've seen.
>
> Brands may vary, but prices are almost a match between the two. But, and
> this is notable, and obvious after much research, ...
>
> .... the best looking women shop at Lowe's.
>
> --www.e-woodshop.net
> Last update: 10/22/08
> KarlC@ (the obvious)
Angela likes shopping at Lowe's in Port Huron MI. By golly, I think
you may be onto something!
.
.
.
.
I can haz another piece of cake now?
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Amazon has a 26" push pull hand saw that may interest you. It is a bit
>> pricey.
>
> Thanks. I found a Stiletto 22" push pull hand saw. Was that the one you
> are
> referring to or was there one that did have a 26" blade? Despite its
> price,
> I may actually buy it.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-STLSAW-Push-Pull-Hand-Saw/dp/B000UDZCQY/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1228661071&sr=8-46
That's the one I saw. I hope it is what you were looking for. I know
nothing about the saw myself. I just thought you should see the
advertisement.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I think you can find such a thing at Lowe's and Home Depot. I have a
> Stanley
>> tool box saw that cuts on both strokes. I never use it, but then I don't
>> like pull stroke saws.
>
> I'll have to visit a Lowe's, but there aren't any at the HD that I visit.
> Of
> course, that doesn't say much since stock seems to vary between stores
> from
> what I've seen.
See if there isn't a Sandvik saw that has the bi-directional teeth. I think
I had one, but I
don't know where it walked off to.
Upscale wrote:
> There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that usually
> cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that cuts on
> the pull stroke.
>
> The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed saws
> I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
Japanese ripsaws are designed to be used while standing on the stock,
holding the saw in both hands.
A japanese saw suitable for smalls-scale ripping would be something like
an 8tpi ryoba. The blades are not as long as a western saw, however.
For large scale ripping, the japanese used to use something like a
Kobiki-Nokogiri or Temagori-Nokogiri. These are very coarse saws, with
an 18" cutting edge at 2tpi.
http://www.fine-tools.com/kobiki.htm
Irwin makes a 10tpi pullsaw with a 15" blade, available at many tool and
hardware stores.
> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull stroke
> like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find one
> to buy?
I think the answer is that they simply don't exist. You could always
buy one and re-file the teeth for a pull stroke if you really wanted to,
but I don't know why you would bother...a pull-saw doesn't need as thick
a plate as a push saw, so you'd be wasting energy.
Have you considered a fullsize european frame saw with the blade cutting
on the pull stroke?
Chris
Upscale wrote:
> "J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> under 20 bucks. If that's not big enough he can find a 15" and an 18"
>> from the same company--Sears doesn't stock them though--googling
>> 10-2315 and 10-2318 will find a wealth of suppliers for those--Amazon
>
> Wrong style. I'm looking for a full sized (22"+ blade, style below) European
> type saw that cuts on the pull stroke. Similar as below, same type of
> handle, similar blade, only teeth cut on the pull stroke.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=46886&cat=1,42884
>
>
Two ideas:
1. Direct your questions to Lee Valley. Maybe if they don't stock it
they will know who does.
2. Take a regular "push" saw, remove the handle, and attach a handle at
the opposite end.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that
> usually
> cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that cuts on
> the pull stroke.
>
> The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed
> saws
> I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
>
> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull stroke
> like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find
> one
> to buy?
>
I think you can find such a thing at Lowe's and Home Depot. I have a Stanley
tool box saw that cuts on both strokes. I never use it, but then I don't
like pull stroke saws.
>> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull stroke
>> like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find
>> one to buy?
I've got the frame saw from here:
http://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.htm
It's not a panel saw like a Diston, but with the Japanese-style blades
(cross-cut and rip), it's a damn fine tool, and you can go from
pull-cut to push-cut at will.
Usual disclaimers apply.
-Zz
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I think you can find such a thing at Lowe's and Home Depot. I have a
Stanley
> tool box saw that cuts on both strokes. I never use it, but then I don't
> like pull stroke saws.
I'll have to visit a Lowe's, but there aren't any at the HD that I visit. Of
course, that doesn't say much since stock seems to vary between stores from
what I've seen.
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Amazon has a 26" push pull hand saw that may interest you. It is a bit
> pricey.
Thanks. I found a Stiletto 22" push pull hand saw. Was that the one you are
referring to or was there one that did have a 26" blade? Despite its price,
I may actually buy it.
http://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-STLSAW-Push-Pull-Hand-Saw/dp/B000UDZCQY/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1228661071&sr=8-46
"Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> That's the one I saw. I hope it is what you were looking for. I know
> nothing about the saw myself. I just thought you should see the
> advertisement.
I appreciate that. Originally, I was looking for one that cut on the pull
stroke, but it makes eminent sense to me to have one that cuts in both
directions. And yes, I did find a 26" model on the Magnum tools website for
$20 less. I've got an email into them to ask what it would cost to ship to
Canada.
On Nov 2, 5:03=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "John Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > You can't seem to find one to buy because you wouldn't
> > like it after you bought it. =A0It wouldn't work very well.
> > You need downward pressure on the teeth to get them to cut. =A0With a
> > normal Disston-type handsaw, having the handle well above the line of
> > the teeth gives you quite a bit of downward pressure - on the push
> > stroke. =A0On the pull stroke, though, it tends to lift the teeth out o=
f
> > the cut.
>
> I use a wheelchair John. Able bodied people stand above the work they're
> cutting and use their body as a major part of the force needed for a push=
to
> cut stroke. That's not something I can do anymore. Typically, when I use =
a
> handsaw, I *am* pulling on a downward angle, so the type of saw I'm looki=
ng
> for is exactly what I need and what I want. I've also got a smaller toolb=
ox
> saw with that cuts on the pull stroke and it works great as far as I'm
> concerned.
I often cut from below with a pull stroke as well. But with a pruning
saw, not a handsaw. The pruning saw has a handle somewhat like that
on a Disston-type handsaw, and the teeth are designed to cut on the
pull stroke. Just what you want. But the low placement of the handle
and the curve of the blade put your pulling force below the line of
the teeth, so that it keeps them biting into the work.
The typical Disston-type handsaw has the handle well above the cutting
line of the teeth. Regardless of the position you cut from, pulling
on the handle tends to lift the teeth away from the work.
You might get it to work better if you punch new holes in the blade
and reposition the handle so that it is below the teeth.
John Martin
Lowell Holmes wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that
>> usually
>> cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that
>> cuts on the pull stroke.
>>
>> The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine
>> toothed saws
>> I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
>>
>> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull
>> stroke like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I
>> seem to find one
>> to buy?
>>
> I think you can find such a thing at Lowe's and Home Depot. I have a
> Stanley tool box saw that cuts on both strokes. I never use it, but
> then I don't like pull stroke saws.
Don't see the original post, but the OP might want to look at
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/default.php/cPath/37_308. They
have a variety of timber saws that are either bidirectional or cut on
the pull stroke, some made in Germany and some in Japan. All theirs
are crosscut. The prices seem reasonable for what they are selling.
He might also want to look at their Japanese saw section--they have a
heavy carpentry "Z" brand saw that might be a good choice (note that
in tests the "Z" brand has sometimes outperformed very high priced
hand-made saws).
http://www.fine-tools.com/kobiki.htm has more information including
the Japanese nomenclature for larger saws. They have both rip and
crosscut variants and a couple of models, and will ship to the US, but
their prices even before shipping are much higher than Traditional
Woodworker.
http://nokogiri.com/ has several fairly substantial Japanese saws for
very reasonable prices.
Beyond that, googling "japanese timber saw", "kobiki nokogiri",
"maebiki nokogiri", and "temagori nokogiri" will yield some sources
and a lot more information, including photos and descriptions of the
use of some Japanese antiques of the sort that are no longer being
made.
I suspect that a Japanese today who would in prior years have used a
kobiki nokogiri just fires up the chain saw.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
Lowell Holmes wrote:
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Lowell Holmes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> I think you can find such a thing at Lowe's and Home Depot. I have
>>> a Stanley tool box saw that cuts on both strokes. I never use it,
>>> but then I don't like pull stroke saws.
>>
>> I'll have to visit a Lowe's, but there aren't any at the HD that I
>> visit. Of
>> course, that doesn't say much since stock seems to vary between
>> stores from
>> what I've seen.
>
>
> See if there isn't a Sandvik saw that has the bi-directional teeth.
> I
> think I had one, but I
> don't know where it walked off to.
If he wants something that can be bought locally, Sears stores stock
the 12" Shark Saw General Carpentry Saw (Sears item 00936581000) for
under 20 bucks. If that's not big enough he can find a 15" and an 18"
from the same company--Sears doesn't stock them though--googling
10-2315 and 10-2318 will find a wealth of suppliers for those--Amazon
lists both for aroune 20 bucks and shipping.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Sat, 1 Nov 2008 09:55:55 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that usually
>cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that cuts on
>the pull stroke.
>
>The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed saws
>I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
>
>I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull stroke
>like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find one
>to buy?
>
Seems a bit odd to have a large pull-cut saw. I have three Japanese
pull-cut saws that work very well on smaller, tighter areas. On a
larger saw, the blade will have the tendency to be pulled out of the
handle. Certainly, a different set of arm muscles to work.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that
> usually
> cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that cuts on
> the pull stroke.
>
> The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed
> saws
> I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
>
> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull stroke
> like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to find
> one
> to buy?
>
Amazon has a 26" push pull hand saw that may interest you. It is a bit
pricey.
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 09:55:55 -0500, Upscale wrote:
> There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that
> usually cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw
> that cuts on the pull stroke.
>
> The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine toothed
> saws I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
>
> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull
> stroke like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem
> to find one to buy?
Have you looked on the Web at http://www.japanwoodworker.com
If you look around at that site you can find hand saws (pull stroke) over
11 inches long that are double edged; a 10tpi cross-cut on one edge and a
5 tpi Rip on the other edge. As you might expect, $$
The European style hand saws have two objectives, keep the saw dust away
from the cut marking (thus push the saw dust down and away) and to
prevent the blade from buckling on the cut stroke which is why American
and European saws are so thick, or have bent metal on the back side.
When you cut on the pull, there is little chance of the blade bending or
binding as it is cutting wood; the blade pulling out of the handle, or
you hand getting muscle cramps gripping the handle for the pull stroke is
another topic.
BTW: you do know that just because the saw comes with the teeth set and
sharpened for a push stroke, you could always find a hand saw sharpening
service that will, for a price, re-sharpen and re-set the teeth for a
pull stroke. And Yes, they will laugh at you but not at your money.
Aside: did you also look at Lee Valley for Japanese hand saws? That
place is rated as a 'Tool Porn' site as it has so-o-o many *must* have
tools (which most people will only use a few times but still brag they
own the tools.) Your wallet has been warned.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> There's your typical North American hand saw such as a Disston that
usually
> cuts on the push stroke and there's your typical Japanese saw that
cuts on
> the pull stroke.
>
> The Japanese saws (all that I can find) seem to be smaller fine
toothed saws
> I'd typically use for some type of fine cutting.
>
> I'm looking for a full sized Disston type saw that cuts on the pull
stroke
> like the Japanese models. Anybody know of any? Why can't I seem to
find one
> to buy?
>
These 'Timberman' saws are available from The Japan Woodworker:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&dept_id=13090
Len
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "John Martin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> You can't seem to find one to buy because you wouldn't
>> like it after you bought it. It wouldn't work very well.
>
> I use a wheelchair John. Able bodied people stand above the work they're
> cutting and use their body as a major part of the force needed for a push
> to
> cut stroke. That's not something I can do anymore. Typically, when I use a
> handsaw, I *am* pulling on a downward angle, so the type of saw I'm
> looking
> for is exactly what I need and what I want. I've also got a smaller
> toolbox
> saw with that cuts on the pull stroke and it works great as far as I'm
> concerned.
I admire your spirit, keeping on doing something important to you and not
just quitting.
Bravo!
On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 11:12:36 -0400, Phisherman wrote:
> Seems a bit odd to have a large pull-cut saw. I have three Japanese
> pull-cut saws that work very well on smaller, tighter areas. On a
> larger saw, the blade will have the tendency to be pulled out of the
> handle. Certainly, a different set of arm muscles to work.
I have one of the good-sized two edged ones (ryoba?). It works well,
except, as you say, the blade occasionally pulls out of the handle. I
keep meaning to epoxy it in, but it hasn't been that bad yet :-).
But does it have a 24-36 inch blade? No. I'd guess it at 14-15 inches.
"Upscale" wrote
>
> "Lowell Holmes" wrote in message
>> I think you can find such a thing at Lowe's and Home Depot. I have a
> Stanley
>> tool box saw that cuts on both strokes. I never use it, but then I don't
>> like pull stroke saws.
>
> I'll have to visit a Lowe's, but there aren't any at the HD that I visit.
> Of
> course, that doesn't say much since stock seems to vary between stores
> from
> what I've seen.
Brands may vary, but prices are almost a match between the two. But, and
this is notable, and obvious after much research, ...
.... the best looking women shop at Lowe's.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)