A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
complete.
The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.
So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/
Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
the surface or bottom of the panels.
Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
16.5" wide, 24" long
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>>
>> And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
>> day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
>> slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
>> with poor visibility.
>
> Have you tried using a colored pencil? I'm just curious if that'll help
> any.
>
> Last time I worked with Walnut, I used chalk for the initial layout and
> used more light to see the pencil marks.
>
> Puckdropper
Look at the picture with the slots. I used a yellow pencil, I had to
sharpen it 4 times. I'm wondering if the Pica pencils that LV sells would
last longer.
On 2/7/2014 9:23 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
>>>
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
>>>
>>
>> I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
>> dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.
>>
>
> These fixed distance measuring devices really speed layouts up. Wait
> till you get the hang of using the story stick. ;~)
But doesn't my combo square do the same thing?
I filed a round in the rule's ends recess, so I can keep a pencil for
layouts.
Or I can use the end to use a marking knife on the flat.
--
Jeff
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
>
> And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
> day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
> slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
> with poor visibility.
Have you tried using a colored pencil? I'm just curious if that'll help
any.
Last time I worked with Walnut, I used chalk for the initial layout and
used more light to see the pencil marks.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>
> And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
> day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
> slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal with
> poor visibility.
I took a welding class once. The instructor was a big advocate of white
pencils. It showed up well on the metal and was much more precise than
other more conventional markers for metal. Since I knew a number of artists
and picked up art supplies for them from time to time, I just grabbed a
bunch of white pencils the next time I was at the art store.
You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to marker
for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure enough in your
masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have any problem buying
some white pencils.
Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white pencils for
you! ;-)
"Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote
>
> Do the white pencils have a harder material?
>
I used them on metal. The harder they are, the more of an impression they
make on soft materials. Doesn't matter on metal. but may be a consideration
on soft woods.
>
> I was wondering if these with the yellow or white leads might hold up
> better..
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121
Damn! Does Rob Lee make a product for EVERYTHING??
They look nice. I bet they would work very well. Just pony up the money
and buy special Veritas marker and mechanical pencils.
What next? Veritas underwear?
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>On 2/7/2014 6:14 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
>>
>>> Not sure who makes'm but this is where I get'm
>>>
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=61607&cat=1,43513
>>
>> Other than the vernier, I think my combo square accomplishes
>> everything the stop rule can. What am I missing here?
>>
>
>Probably nothing. How does your combination square compare in price?
>Is you square all satin chrome steel?
>
>These stop rules operate very smoothly and have a good feel. I find my
>combination squares a bit cumbersome.
OK. No big differences, then. I've several squares, Starretts and a
Mitutoyo, and one Empire, in 4", 6", 12" (3), and 24" sizes, all but
two have satin chrome rules. Prices at a local antiques consignment
shop ranged from $15 (6" Mitutoyo) to $60 for the 12" Starrett with
protractor and center heads. The 30 year old 12" Empire ($9?) gets the
most use for general construction and household purposes since it is
accurate and I do not worry about dropping it. The better squares are
used for layout and machine setups.
On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
>
> I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
> dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.
The one on the left:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5977667021174570450
Who makes that one?
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/7/2014 2:46 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 07 Feb 2014 08:21:10 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> The through holes are exact width 5mm mortises, directly on top, 10mm
>> exact width, plunged about 3/16" .
>
> Hmmm. I haven't used my 10mm Domino bit yet. Your 10mm bit slot looked
> bigger than I thought it would have looked.
You know, the 10 mm slot is twice as wide as the 5mm slot. ;~)
And of course the slot is going to be 5mm wider/longer.
>
> One other question. I haven't tried a through hole with the Domino
> yet. Do you use a backer board when doing a Domino through hole?
I did not for those pictured and I did have a bit o tear out on the back
side. None of this is going to ever show so I was not concerned.
And I was thinking that the bit might finally be getting a bit dull.
Today I made 16 more through slots and had not one tear out. I suspect
it was the orientation, vertical, that I was holding the Domino and did
not have a real stable hold on it yesterday. I probably wiggled a bit.
Today the Domino was cutting horizontally.
On 2/7/2014 10:17 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>>
>> And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
>> day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
>> slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
>> with poor visibility.
>
> I took a welding class once. The instructor was a big advocate of white
> pencils. It showed up well on the metal and was much more precise than
> other more conventional markers for metal. Since I knew a number of
> artists and picked up art supplies for them from time to time, I just
> grabbed a bunch of white pencils the next time I was at the art store.
>
> You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to
> marker for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure enough
> in your masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have any
> problem buying some white pencils.
>
> Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white pencils
> for you! ;-)
I borrowed her yellow pencil. LOL
Unfortunately her yellow dulled so quickly and so much that the 4
sharpenings that I gave them subtracted at least 2" from its length.
Do the white pencils have a harder material?
I was wondering if these with the yellow or white leads might hold up
better..
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121
On 2/7/2014 8:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
>>>
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
>>>
>>
>> I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
>> dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.
>
> The one on the left:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5977667021174570450
>
>
> Who makes that one?
>
Not sure who makes'm but this is where I get'm
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=61607&cat=1,43513
On 2/7/2014 8:43 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/7/2014 9:23 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
>>> dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.
>>>
>>
>> These fixed distance measuring devices really speed layouts up. Wait
>> till you get the hang of using the story stick. ;~)
> But doesn't my combo square do the same thing?
> I filed a round in the rule's ends recess, so I can keep a pencil for
> layouts.
>
Yes it can but with the Veritas you get a longer surface to mark on and
it is not as cumbersom and the rule is typically not as precise.
> Or I can use the end to use a marking knife on the flat.
>
On 2/6/2014 7:03 PM, Leon wrote:
> A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
> that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
> complete.
>
> The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
> cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
> cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.
>
> So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
> bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/
>
>
> Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
> and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
> movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
> would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
> the surface or bottom of the panels.
>
> Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
> allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
> 16.5" wide, 24" long
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
Word! ... you be a badass mofo woodworker, dog! LOL
<heard on a recent Stupid Bowl commercial that failed the test> ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/10/2014 9:43 AM, Larry Kraus wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> On 2/7/2014 6:14 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
>>>
>>>> Not sure who makes'm but this is where I get'm
>>>>
>>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=61607&cat=1,43513
>>>
>>> Other than the vernier, I think my combo square accomplishes
>>> everything the stop rule can. What am I missing here?
>>>
>>
>> Probably nothing. How does your combination square compare in price?
>> Is you square all satin chrome steel?
>>
>> These stop rules operate very smoothly and have a good feel. I find my
>> combination squares a bit cumbersome.
>
> OK. No big differences, then. I've several squares, Starretts and a
> Mitutoyo, and one Empire, in 4", 6", 12" (3), and 24" sizes, all but
> two have satin chrome rules. Prices at a local antiques consignment
> shop ranged from $15 (6" Mitutoyo) to $60 for the 12" Starrett with
> protractor and center heads. The 30 year old 12" Empire ($9?) gets the
> most use for general construction and household purposes since it is
> accurate and I do not worry about dropping it. The better squares are
> used for layout and machine setups.
>
Yeah. all in what you prefer. Much better made than the "cheap" combo
squares for the purpose that they are designed.
If my combo squares were Starretts I probably would not have gotten these.
On 2/7/2014 10:29 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/7/14, 10:17 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>>
>> You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to
>> marker for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure
>> enough in your masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have
>> any problem buying some white pencils.
>>
>> Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white
>> pencils for you! ;-)
>
> I'm in the art store, regularly. For woodworking, they have those great
> plastic triangles that are dead-nuts-on square for setting up blades and
> fences. The aforementioned white pencils and drafting supplies are
> there, too.
>
> For music, they have great sketch pads, mechanical pencils, colored
> pencils & markers, and different erasers I use for charting songs. They
> also have an erasable permanent (oxymoron!) fine tipped marker I use for
> making changes to a chart after it's been slipped inside a 3-ringed
> plastic page protector.
No kidding ... the stuff in Texas Art Supply (next to the studio in
Houston) will keep me entertained, and spending, much longer than a
visit to WoodCraft or Rockler will.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/6/2014 11:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>>
>> And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
>> day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
>> slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal
>> with poor visibility.
>
> Have you tried using a colored pencil? I'm just curious if that'll help
> any.
>
> Last time I worked with Walnut, I used chalk for the initial layout and
> used more light to see the pencil marks.
>
> Puckdropper
>
That's why I started using a welder's soapstone pencil.
Chalk is hard to get out of the pores. I tried the crayon's (lumber) but
they are also a pain to get off. Acetone sought of works, but not big on
it. I use them for rough work.
--
Jeff
On 2/6/2014 8:02 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 19:03:49 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
>> allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
>> 16.5" wide, 24" long
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
>
> That's pretty neat. You just love your Domino don't you?
LOL Why yes, yes I do.
I'll bet in
> your free time, you sit around thinking up new uses for your Domino.
> Pinning drawer sides. Making expansion slots. What's next?
Actually I plan to to things in a certain way and the Domino just
happens to be the answer. I could have done this with a router but that
would have been complicated.
>
> Better buy a second Domino to keep on hand. If your present Domino
> dies on you, you're going to have a meltdown. :)
A dealer is close enough. ;~)
>
> I noticed you've got a stop rule in that expansion slot picture. I've
> got one too. It's pretty handy isn't it?
>
Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
On 2/7/2014 8:43 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> But doesn't my combo square do the same thing?
Pretty much, but not nearly as handy or as quick, IME.
The width of the blade makes it easier to quickly/squarely align parts a
certain distance from an edge in one motion than with a combo square, a
frequent task in cabinet making ... like quickly squaring up Euro hinges
in a 35mm hole when installing cabinet doors.
It also fits in an apron pocket, where I can jealously guard it onsite. ;)
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 2/6/2014 7:43 PM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/6/2014 8:03 PM, Leon wrote:
>> A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
>> that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
>> complete.
>>
>> The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
>> cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
>> cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.
>>
>> So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
>> bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/
>>
>>
>> Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
>> and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
>> movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
>> would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
>> the surface or bottom of the panels.
>>
>> Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
>> allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
>> 16.5" wide, 24" long
>>
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
>
> Not seeing what you're solving with that last image.
> But the screw holes are very nice, if that is what the Domnio was used for.
>
Yes that was what the Domino was used for. The screws will be anchored
into the edge of the walnut rails. The screws will stay stationary.
The walnut panel will be attached to those rails via the screws that you
see, The slotted holes will allow the panels to expand and contract.
On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 22:07:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
>Actually I plan to to things in a certain way and the Domino just
>happens to be the answer. I could have done this with a router but that
>would have been complicated.
The through holes appear to be domino sized. How did you make the
wider insets for the screw heads? Were they two adjacent Domino
mortises?
On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 19:03:49 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
>allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
>16.5" wide, 24" long
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
That's pretty neat. You just love your Domino don't you? I'll bet in
your free time, you sit around thinking up new uses for your Domino.
Pinning drawer sides. Making expansion slots. What's next?
Better buy a second Domino to keep on hand. If your present Domino
dies on you, you're going to have a meltdown. :)
I noticed you've got a stop rule in that expansion slot picture. I've
got one too. It's pretty handy isn't it?
On 2/6/2014 8:03 PM, Leon wrote:
> A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio cabinets
> that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are just about
> complete.
>
> The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
> cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
> cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.
>
> So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding the
> bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/
>
>
> Because the walnut panels that will separate the top and bottom cabinets
> and cover the top cabinets are solid walnut I had to improvise for wood
> movement. Not doing so would have meant that the attachment screws
> would probably pull out or break. And their heads could not be above
> the surface or bottom of the panels.
>
> Another problem that the Festool Domino was instrumental in solving that
> allows for the expansion of the solid walnut panels. The panels are
> 16.5" wide, 24" long
>
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
Not seeing what you're solving with that last image.
But the screw holes are very nice, if that is what the Domnio was used for.
--
Jeff
On 2/7/2014 3:46 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 07 Feb 2014 08:21:10 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> The through holes are exact width 5mm mortises, directly on top, 10mm
>> exact width, plunged about 3/16" .
>
> Hmmm. I haven't used my 10mm Domino bit yet. Your 10mm bit slot looked
> bigger than I thought it would have looked.
>
> One other question. I haven't tried a through hole with the Domino
> yet. Do you use a backer board when doing a Domino through hole?
>
I wouldn't think it necessary since it's a spiral bit pulling toward the
festool.
--
Jeff
On Fri, 07 Feb 2014 08:21:10 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>The through holes are exact width 5mm mortises, directly on top, 10mm
>exact width, plunged about 3/16" .
Hmmm. I haven't used my 10mm Domino bit yet. Your 10mm bit slot looked
bigger than I thought it would have looked.
One other question. I haven't tried a through hole with the Domino
yet. Do you use a backer board when doing a Domino through hole?
Leon wrote:
> A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio
> cabinets that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are
> just about complete.
>
> The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
> cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
> cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.
>
> So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding
> the bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/
>
>
God - I love freakin' walnut!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/7/14, 10:17 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:
>
> You do have to keep them sharp. But white pencils have been my go to
> marker for any kind of dark surface. As long as you are secure
> enough in your masculinity to be seen in an art store, you won't have
> any problem buying some white pencils.
>
> Oh, I forgot, you have an artsy wife. She could get the white
> pencils for you! ;-)
I'm in the art store, regularly. For woodworking, they have those great
plastic triangles that are dead-nuts-on square for setting up blades and
fences. The aforementioned white pencils and drafting supplies are
there, too.
For music, they have great sketch pads, mechanical pencils, colored
pencils & markers, and different erasers I use for charting songs. They
also have an erasable permanent (oxymoron!) fine tipped marker I use for
making changes to a chart after it's been slipped inside a 3-ringed
plastic page protector.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Lee Michaels wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote
>>
>> Do the white pencils have a harder material?
>>
> I used them on metal. The harder they are, the more of an impression
> they make on soft materials. Doesn't matter on metal. but may be a
> consideration on soft woods.
Be aware, some colored pencils are wax-based and some are oil-based.
Frankly I'm surprised either hold up very well under heat--I would
probably use an awl.
>
>>
>> I was wondering if these with the yellow or white leads might hold up
>> better..
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71121
>
> Damn! Does Rob Lee make a product for EVERYTHING??
>
> They look nice. I bet they would work very well. Just pony up the
> money and buy special Veritas marker and mechanical pencils.
>
> What next? Veritas underwear?
On 2/7/14 7:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>>
>>> Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
>>>
>>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
>>>
>>
>> I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
>> dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.
>
> The one on the left:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods?noredirect=1#5977667021174570450
>
>
> Who makes that one?
>
I got mine from LV when they had an 'introductory' offer a number of
years past. One end has a slightly funky grind that isn't exactly square
so I have to be careful.
I agree with the comment that whatever gets used, it needs to fit in a
pocket. Anything bigger usually gets set down on the table saw and
eventually hits the concrete when I move the fence to 'clear the work
space'.
Measuring/marking equipment rarely survives a trip to the concrete floor...
-BR
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: [email protected] ---
On 2/7/2014 6:14 PM, Larry Kraus wrote:
>
>> Not sure who makes'm but this is where I get'm
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=61607&cat=1,43513
>
> Other than the vernier, I think my combo square accomplishes
> everything the stop rule can. What am I missing here?
>
Probably nothing. How does your combination square compare in price?
Is you square all satin chrome steel?
These stop rules operate very smoothly and have a good feel. I find my
combination squares a bit cumbersome.
On 2/7/2014 2:47 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 06 Feb 2014 22:07:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353851794/
>> Actually I plan to to things in a certain way and the Domino just
>> happens to be the answer. I could have done this with a router but that
>> would have been complicated.
>
> The through holes appear to be domino sized. How did you make the
> wider insets for the screw heads? Were they two adjacent Domino
> mortises?
>
The through holes are exact width 5mm mortises, directly on top, 10mm
exact width, plunged about 3/16" The domino was placed up and down,
sitting on its face, fence folded up. The bottom of the Domino was
indexed against a, clamped in place, strait edge. I used two pieces of
orange tape with a measured mark on each to align the straight edge both
for the 5mm and 10mm cuts. I made all of the 5mm mortises first.
Measurements not being critical I decided that replacing the fence for
each operation was probably less trouble than changing the bit out 16
times for both ends of of all 4 panels.
On 2/7/2014 8:06 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> Damn handy. And this gets use just as much too.
>>
>> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32598&cat=1,42936,42945,32598
>
> I can't think of a project in years that I have not reached for mine a
> dozen times. Same with that long sliding ruler you gave me years back.
>
These fixed distance measuring devices really speed layouts up. Wait
till you get the hang of using the story stick. ;~)
On 2/6/2014 7:21 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Leon wrote:
>> A few weeks ago I posted some pictures of the twin walnut curio
>> cabinets that I am building for a customer. The bottom cabinets are
>> just about complete.
>>
>> The top, mostly glass, are shown here sitting on top of the lower
>> cabinets. There will be a solid wood panel between the bottom and top
>> cabinets and a solid walnut top on top of the top cabinets.
>>
>> So far the only screws that are in these cabinets are a few holding
>> the bottom trim at the bottom cabinets.
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/12353391565/
>>
>>
>
> God - I love freakin' walnut!
>
I like walnut for many reasons, hate it for one, and then miffed about
one feature.
It is beautiful, it is soft compared to oak, it is light weight compared
to oak, and you absolutely don't have to satin it.
In SE Texas the stuff is expensive, more than double the price of white oak.
And last, I hate trying to see my pencil marks. Typically I use that
day-glo orange masking tape to make my marks on. In this instance the
slight thickness of the tape throws the Domino off so I had to deal with
poor visibility.