I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what
my budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most
popular. I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly
some oak or cherry. Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness
planing(maybe 1/8") almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some
custom door/window casings. I'd appreciate hearing about any good or
bad experiences, and am certainly open to any ideas or brands. Many
thanks.
Yep. the planer is really the thing and is available used, as are jointers.
It there's any way to hold out for a used one with longer bed, it's a good
thing to have. This wood is light and the way you will install it will
allow you to force it straight, but it's hard to straighten much bow in 7'
pieces with a short jointer.
My old C'man jointer is a very good machine, but way too short for long
boards.
You can straighten perfectly well with either a RAS (my favorite) or a TS
and a sled, then put that edge through the jointer if you need a better
finish. With a reasonable blade, I get an edge easily made usable with a
pass or two of a rubber sanding block. I like the edges rounded a little,
so I'm always sanding anyway.
Wilson
"william morrissey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2005052000541916807%buddymorrissey@hotmailcom...
> I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what my
> budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most popular.
> I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly some oak or
> cherry. Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness planing(maybe
> 1/8") almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some custom door/window
> casings. I'd appreciate hearing about any good or bad experiences, and am
> certainly open to any ideas or brands. Many thanks.
>
I just bought this one
http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=25
It is an imported from china model which I am sure is the identical machine
as the jet and very close to the delta. The delta has a lever under the
infeed table as opposed to a wheel. It has the jack screw system for
adjusting blade height which is very important. I ran some pine through it
and it comes out absolutely perfectly flat and smooth as glass. I say get
the cheaper one. Mine cost $399.00C about $320.00 US.
"william morrissey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2005052000541916807%buddymorrissey@hotmailcom...
> I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what
> my budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most
> popular. I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly
> some oak or cherry. Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness
> planing(maybe 1/8") almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some
> custom door/window casings. I'd appreciate hearing about any good or
> bad experiences, and am certainly open to any ideas or brands. Many
> thanks.
>
<<I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what
my budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most
popular. I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly
some oak or cherry. Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness
planing(maybe 1/8") almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some
custom door/window casings. >>
You might also consider the Ridgid from Home Depot. It is under $350 and in
the same league as the ones you mentioned. The money you save will come in
handy because it sounds like you're going to need to invest in a second
tool. Since you plan to thickness plane a lot of lumber, you will also want
to get -- wait for it -- a thickness planer. A jointer will flatten one
face of your lumber and also help you create a jointed edge that is
perpendicular to that face but it can't give you a second face that is
parallel to the first one. You need a planer for that.
Lee
--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"
IMNSHO it doesn't matter. In that price band, they are all about the same,
and every manufacturer has a lemon now and then, so buy from somebody that
will take care of you if you get unlucky. Buy the one from the local dealer
with whom you would like to establish a relationship, or buy the one that
comes with free liftgate delivery, or the cheaper one.
-Steve
"william morrissey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2005052000541916807%buddymorrissey@hotmailcom...
> I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what
> my budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most
> popular. I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly
> some oak or cherry. Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness
> planing(maybe 1/8") almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some
> custom door/window casings. I'd appreciate hearing about any good or
> bad experiences, and am certainly open to any ideas or brands. Many
> thanks.
>
"william morrissey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2005052000541916807%buddymorrissey@hotmailcom...
> I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what my
> budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most popular.
> I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly some oak or
> cherry.
Flip a coin, but also look at the Yorktown from Wilke Machine.
> Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness planing(maybe 1/8")
> almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some custom door/window
> casings.
Jointers are for smoothing one side, not for thicknessing. You want a
planer for that job. With a jointer you may end up iwth two smooth side,
but a trapazoilal configuration. Planers make it parallel. If yo are using
standard surfaced wood from the lumberyard, you don't need the jointer, just
a planer.
Ed
On 2005-05-20 07:47:08 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> said:
>
> "william morrissey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:2005052000541916807%buddymorrissey@hotmailcom...
>> I'm looking at $400 6" open stand jointers- as a hobbyist, thats what
>> my budget can stand- and the Jet or Delta seem to be among the most
>> popular. I'll likely be feeding it mostly softwoods, and occasionaly
>> some oak or cherry.
>
> Flip a coin, but also look at the Yorktown from Wilke Machine.
>
>> Among the first jobs I'll throw at it is thickness planing(maybe 1/8")
>> almost 800 linear feet of pine or poplar for some custom door/window
>> casings.
>
> Jointers are for smoothing one side, not for thicknessing. You want a
> planer for that job. With a jointer you may end up iwth two smooth
> side, but a trapazoilal configuration. Planers make it parallel. If
> yo are using standard surfaced wood from the lumberyard, you don't need
> the jointer, just a planer.
> Ed
The recommendations to buy a planer are well taken- that is on my list
eventually. My primary intention for the jointer is to use it as a
jointer; it's just that I've got a house full of doors and windows to
trim, and I'm planning on casing them in post and lintel. I think that
1x4 stock for the legs and 5/4 for the header looks too "heavy", so I
was planning to remove approx 1/8'' ( or even up to 1/4'' -in several
passes of course) thickness from the legs and use 3/4'' for the lintel.
No doubt a planer would be easier and more predictable. Maybe I'll blow
the budget and buy both!
"william morrissey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The recommendations to buy a planer are well taken- that is on my list
> eventually. My primary intention for the jointer is to use it as a
> jointer;
No, from your description, you want to thickness, not smooth.
> it's just that I've got a house full of doors and windows to trim, and I'm
> planning on casing them in post and lintel. I think that 1x4 stock for the
> legs and 5/4 for the header looks too "heavy", so I was planning to remove
> approx 1/8'' ( or even up to 1/4'' -in several passes of course) thickness
> from the legs and use 3/4'' for the lintel. No doubt a planer would be
> easier and more predictable. Maybe I'll blow the budget and buy both!
Yes, that is what a planer is for. You need the planer, not a jointer. If
you only buy one piece, get the planer. You will have more precise control
and repeatability that a jointer will not give you.
In article <2005052009052016807%buddymorrissey@hotmailcom>,
william morrissey <[email protected]> wrote:
> Maybe I'll blow
> the budget and buy both!
I like the way this man thinks.
On Fri, 20 May 2005 08:14:50 -0400, "Stephen M"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>IMNSHO it doesn't matter. In that price band, they are all about the same,
In fact, you can add in Rigid, Grizzly, Sunhill, etc...
All $400 imported jointers are pretty similar, and they'll all make
boards plenty flat & straight.
A jointer is NOT a space shuttle part. <G>
Barry