>Electric Comet <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like them
>
>they make sense to me and now i will go looking for construction methods
>to make my own
>
>the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
>
>also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
Thanks for sharing the information.
I never saw cauls used before so I did a little googling.
http://blog.woodcraft.com/2012/02/bowclamp-is-a-good-caul/
On Monday, November 9, 2015 at 6:02:54 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 14:35:52 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > "To me" says it all.
>
> indeed
> that is also the point
So the point is that as long as *you* have defined what an object is,
that what it is, correct?
Remember, it was you that redefined what a caul is:
"a caul to me has to have a curved surface... "
Of course, what is actually factual shouldn't enter into the discussion,
as long as *you* have decided what something is. I see.
How does having your own definition of things work out for you in
everyday life?
> i would not buy nor make a caul that was flat it would serve me no purpose
>
> a curved one lets me do more with fewer clamps
> the cauls in the lee valley are all curved and their selling point is that you
> only need two clamps
On Monday, November 9, 2015 at 6:02:54 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 14:35:52 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > "To me" says it all.
>
> indeed
> that is also the point
> i would not buy nor make a caul that was flat it would serve me no purpose
>
> a curved one lets me do more with fewer clamps
> the cauls in the lee valley are all curved and their selling point is that you
> only need two clamps
On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 19:51:48 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 9 Nov 2015 17:22:39 -0800 (PST)
>DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> So the point is that as long as *you* have defined what an object is,
>> that what it is, correct?
>
>quite the dramatic flare you have
>
>i do not need a flat caul
>
>their existence is not relevant
>wrong or right is not important
>
>
>test of a true salesman is to sell ice cubes to eskimos and flat cauls
>to a woodworker
>
The point being that until a week ago you had no clue what a caul was.
Yet, even though you've never so much as touched one, you know you
don't need one and that no one else does, either.
On 11/8/2015 2:26 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 11:13:07 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> That is just so wrong.
>
> how is it wrong
>
> a caul to me has to have a curved surface otherwise it is lumber
That is because you do not know the true definition of a caul. They way
you see it is not necessarily correct.
>
> the entire advantage of a caul to me is that you can do with two clamps
> what normally would take many more
No, as previousely stated it helps to reduce the number of clamps.
>
> the caul might need to be customized based on caul material and the
> material to be clamped
Yeah, it has to be the relatively right size.
On Saturday, November 14, 2015 at 11:47:44 AM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 14 Nov 2015 05:57:58 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > merely checking (questioning) your authority to redefine objects that
>
> more drama
More trolling on your part.
> if you give anyone on the internet authority you are in trouble
I gave you no authority...twice. It is you that thinks you can just redefine
an object simply because you *claim* you have no need for it.
Moving on...
On 11/6/2015 11:07 PM, krw wrote:
> On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like them
>>
>> they make sense to me and now i will go looking for construction methods
>> to make my own
>>
>> the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
>>
>> also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
>>
> I made mine out of Ash 1x2s glued together. I planed them on all
> sides (the Ash I have is fairly rough), stained (to make 'em pretty),
> and several coats of poly (makes scraping glue easy). They're drilled
> for 3/8" carriage bolts and wingnuts.
>>
>>
>>
"pretty" What the hell for???
I covered mine with packing tape on the curved side to prevent glue from
sticking.
--
Jeff
On Sunday, November 8, 2015 at 12:37:47 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 15:23:13 -0600
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
> > I could be dead wrong but I believer a straight caul along with a few
> > less clamps would be just as good or better. Now if you only have a
> > few clamps this might be a good option.
>
> if it is flat it is not a caul
That is just so wrong.
> that is the whole point
> anyone that thinks that the curve is not significant is missing the
> entire point of a caul
>
> people with years of experience are often wrong
> if they realize it then they become experts
> if not then they maybe they are still in pursuit of expertise
Oh boy, this oughta be good.
On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 10:51:51 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 9 Nov 2015 17:22:39 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > So the point is that as long as *you* have defined what an object is,
> > that's I what it is, correct?
>
> quite the dramatic flare you have
You are the one that said "if it's flat it's not a caul". I was merely checking
(questioning) your authority to redefine objects that have been around and
in use for a very long time. I was not aware that you had that power. Should
I expect to see your new definition propagate it's way through published
material as time goes on? Please let me know when that process begins.
> i do not need a flat caul
I don't really care what a troll needs.
> their existence is not relevant
To you, no. To more knowledgable people, yes.
> wrong or right is not important
People often say that when they are flat (pun intended) out wrong.
> test of a true salesman is to sell ice cubes to eskimos and flat cauls
> to a woodworker
It's a dishonest and sleazy salesman that sells ice cubes to Eskimos.
Those who purchase (or produce) a flat and true piece of material for
use as a caul have merely done their homework.
On 11/8/2015 11:37 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 15:23:13 -0600
> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
>
>> I could be dead wrong but I believer a straight caul along with a few
>> less clamps would be just as good or better. Now if you only have a
>> few clamps this might be a good option.
>
> if it is flat it is not a caul
You might want to look up the definition of a caul.
Better yet,
The surface of a press that makes contact with panel product, especially
a removable plate or sheet.
(woodworking) A strip or block of wood used to distribute or direct
clamping force.
> that is the whole point
> anyone that thinks that the curve is not significant is missing the
> entire point of a caul
See above.
>
> people with years of experience are often wrong
> if they realize it then they become experts
> if not then they maybe they are still in pursuit of expertise
Correct but people with years of experience that use straight flat cauls
get results that stand the test of time.
A caul merely insures more direct pressure in places that a clamp is not
placed. There have been numerous articles as to how closely clamps
should be placed on straight flat cauls.
AAMOF a curved caul could be a problem with a lightly built project if
you are trying to insure the outer ends of the caul make contact.
On 11/9/2015 5:02 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 14:35:52 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> "To me" says it all.
>
> indeed
> that is also the point
> i would not buy nor make a caul that was flat it would serve me no purpose
The voice of experience?.... ;~) I believe you have been sold.
>
> a curved one lets me do more with fewer clamps
> the cauls in the lee valley are all curved and their selling point is that you
> only need two clamps
>
The same can be done with a straight caul and, wait for it..... only 2
clamps.
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
Like others have said, I don't think the curve is
critical. You just want a slight belly in the
middle (*).
> also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
Well, you don't want them so hard they mar whatever
it is you're clamping. And you want them to flex
when you clamp.
I think most people do what I do, and use whatever
scraps of wood are the right length to make cauls
as needed. And then save them to use again.
John
(* if you make a fair curve by eye, it will be
elliptical, or darn close. Just the way our
brains work)
Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in news:n1o0i9$ore$2
@dont-email.me:
> On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 16:55:02 -0000 (UTC)
> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Like others have said, I don't think the curve is
>> critical. You just want a slight belly in the
>> middle (*).
>
> the curve is critical and may depend on the caul material
> it is a fine line between being useful and not working correctly
Well lets see here. You have never used a caul, and just
recently discovered that the word exists. Yet somehow
you have determined that the dimension of the curve is
"critical" and presumably must be correct to within
thousandths of an inch.
Next you'll be telling us they need to be stored in
humidity controlled lockers, so that the precise
dimension of the curve doesn't change with the weather.
John
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
> I would guestimate that on a 36" wide panel, the bow in a caul need only
> be 1/16" higher on edge than in the center. And that might be too much.
> A caul is simply keeping the boards flat and stopping them from popping
> up from the force of the clamps. You don't need much pressure at all to
> accomplish that.
That sounds about right. Two or three strokes with a plane.
Maybe a tad more if it's a softish wood.
The one time a caul with more curve can be useful is if you're
trying to apply pressure at just one point, as for example in
the middle of a panel where some internal structure is being
glued. In that case you don't care if the ends of the caul
don't contact the work under clamp pressure.
Of course, you can get the same result with a straight caul
by just putting a spacer under it at the point you want the
pressure to be focused.
John
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> On 11/8/2015 2:26 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
>>
>> the entire advantage of a caul to me is that you can do with two clamps
>> what normally would take many more
>
> No, as previousely stated it helps to reduce the number of clamps.
Well, that and it can allow you to put clamping pressure
in a location out of reach of your clamps.
John
On 11/8/2015 11:27 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 16:55:02 -0000 (UTC)
> John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Like others have said, I don't think the curve is
>> critical. You just want a slight belly in the
>> middle (*).
>
> the curve is critical and may depend on the caul material
> it is a fine line between being useful and not working correctly
That would be my thoughts and the size/length of the area to be clamped
IMHO would also change the dynamics.
On Sunday, November 8, 2015 at 3:26:22 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 11:13:07 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > That is just so wrong.
>
> how is it wrong
>
> a caul to me has to have a curved surface...
"To me" says it all.
Leon has already posted one definition of a caul. You should look it up yourself.
Look up straight caul vs. cambered or curved caul
>...otherwise it is lumber
If I take a 2 x 4 and put it between a top plate and sill plate, is it "lumber" or is it a
stud. Actually, it's both. It's a stud made with lumber.
My point is this: what you use the lumber for is what it is. If you use a piece of lumber
to keep a panel flat during a glue-up, it's a caul. A caul made with lumber.
>
> the entire advantage of a caul to me is that you can do with two clamps
> what normally would take many more
Yep. I could use multiple clamps, one at each seam of a panel to keep it flat or
I could use a straight caul and just a couple of clamps.
>
> the caul might need to be customized based on caul material and the
> material to be clamped
Yep, it could be a flat caul or a cambered caul.
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like them
It depends on whether it is a person to person caul, or what party
line you are on. Whether you are cauling on a walkie talkie, or tin
can and string.
My personal preference is on one of those jail cell thingies with a
camera. You should've seen the look on Aunt Edna's face when I cauled
her from my shower to her's!
Priceless.
On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 10:49:35 -0500, woodchucker <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 11/6/2015 11:07 PM, krw wrote:
>> On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like them
>>>
>>> they make sense to me and now i will go looking for construction methods
>>> to make my own
>>>
>>> the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
>>>
>>> also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
>>>
>> I made mine out of Ash 1x2s glued together. I planed them on all
>> sides (the Ash I have is fairly rough), stained (to make 'em pretty),
>> and several coats of poly (makes scraping glue easy). They're drilled
>> for 3/8" carriage bolts and wingnuts.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>"pretty" What the hell for???
Why not? Wood should be pretty. ;-)
>I covered mine with packing tape on the curved side to prevent glue from
>sticking.
On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 09:30:48 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 23:07:10 -0500
>krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I made mine out of Ash 1x2s glued together. I planed them on all
>> sides (the Ash I have is fairly rough), stained (to make 'em pretty),
>> and several coats of poly (makes scraping glue easy). They're drilled
>> for 3/8" carriage bolts and wingnuts.
>
>and how about the curve
>did you just eyeball it
>
What is there about "planed" do you not understand? No curve. No
need, though I'd like to make a few sets that are.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 09:27:44 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 16:55:02 -0000 (UTC)
>John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Like others have said, I don't think the curve is
>> critical. You just want a slight belly in the
>> middle (*).
>
>the curve is critical and may depend on the caul material
>it is a fine line between being useful and not working correctly
>
Amazing. Yesterday you hadn't heard of a caul and today you're the
world's expert. Impressive.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
On 11/6/2015 2:59 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like them
>
> they make sense to me and now i will go looking for construction methods
> to make my own
>
> the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
>
> also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
I very seldom use them but will on occasion. Mine are simply a 1x4 or
like material use on edge. Flat will work fine if you have a clamp
every 24 inches or so. I will say that they do help to insure more even
pressure and contact but in some cases are in the way of a 20+ clamp
glue up.
I have given a lot of thought on the curved ones and IMHO the middle of
the caul still exerts the most pressure so unless you are able to gauge
the center pressure and bring the end pressure to equal that all along
the distance it only replaces one clamp, the center one.
I could be dead wrong but I believer a straight caul along with a few
less clamps would be just as good or better. Now if you only have a few
clamps this might be a good option.
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:
> just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like
> them
I use the 4' 2x2s meant for porch railings because they tend to be pretty
straight. I taper them with a hand plane. One stroke each way from near
the middle to the ends, then a few inches further from the middle, and so
forth - about 4 strokes to get to a foot long for the last stroke.
On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 16:55:02 -0000 (UTC)
John McCoy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Like others have said, I don't think the curve is
> critical. You just want a slight belly in the
> middle (*).
the curve is critical and may depend on the caul material
it is a fine line between being useful and not working correctly
On Sat, 07 Nov 2015 11:37:42 -0500
Casper <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for sharing the information.
> I never saw cauls used before so I did a little googling.
they are an interesting addition to the clamping phase of woodwork
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 23:07:10 -0500
krw <[email protected]> wrote:
> I made mine out of Ash 1x2s glued together. I planed them on all
> sides (the Ash I have is fairly rough), stained (to make 'em pretty),
> and several coats of poly (makes scraping glue easy). They're drilled
> for 3/8" carriage bolts and wingnuts.
and how about the curve
did you just eyeball it
On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 10:49:35 -0500
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> "pretty" What the hell for???
> I covered mine with packing tape on the curved side to prevent glue
> from sticking.
not a bad idea
simple and cheap and effective
On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 00:09:15 +0000 (UTC)
Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> I use the 4' 2x2s meant for porch railings because they tend to be
> pretty straight. I taper them with a hand plane. One stroke each
> way from near the middle to the ends, then a few inches further from
> the middle, and so forth - about 4 strokes to get to a foot long for
> the last stroke.
sounds simple enough
what type wood did you use
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 16:51:19 -0500
woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> They don't need to be hard, or strong.
> I am using 2x4's cut in half, and then put a fair curve as best I
> could on mine. I use them a lot.
douglas fir or hemlock or something else
i always presume 2x4 is doug fir but you never know
> It lowers the number of clamps, and provides a more even glue up.
this is what caught my eye in the catalog but the price was laughable
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 15:23:13 -0600
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
> I could be dead wrong but I believer a straight caul along with a few
> less clamps would be just as good or better. Now if you only have a
> few clamps this might be a good option.
if it is flat it is not a caul
that is the whole point
anyone that thinks that the curve is not significant is missing the
entire point of a caul
people with years of experience are often wrong
if they realize it then they become experts
if not then they maybe they are still in pursuit of expertise
On 11/7/15 10:55 AM, John McCoy wrote:
> Electric Comet <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
>
> Like others have said, I don't think the curve is critical. You just
> want a slight belly in the middle (*).
>
>> also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
>
> Well, you don't want them so hard they mar whatever it is you're
> clamping. And you want them to flex when you clamp.
>
> I think most people do what I do, and use whatever scraps of wood are
> the right length to make cauls as needed. And then save them to use
> again.
>
> John
>
> (* if you make a fair curve by eye, it will be elliptical, or darn
> close. Just the way our brains work)
>
Like many woodworking techniques/tricks, what starts out as possibly an
accident or a very modest adjustment, often get exaggerated over the
years because we all know more is better, right?
The cauls I've always seen and used have an almost imperceptible curve
to them. Some of the ones I've seen on the web are ridiculously curved.
They don't have to be curved very much at all.
I've never actually cut a curve in a caul. I just find scrap wood than
has a slight bow in it already... like most scrap wood, right? Why else
do we have a jointer? :-)
I would guestimate that on a 36" wide panel, the bow in a caul need only
be 1/16" higher on edge than in the center. And that might be too much.
A caul is simply keeping the boards flat and stopping them from popping
up from the force of the clamps. You don't need much pressure at all to
accomplish that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sun, 08 Nov 2015 09:33:17 -0800, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sat, 7 Nov 2015 00:09:15 +0000 (UTC) Larry Blanchard
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I use the 4' 2x2s meant for porch railings because they tend to be
>> pretty straight. I taper them with a hand plane. One stroke each way
>> from near the middle to the ends, then a few inches further from the
>> middle, and so forth - about 4 strokes to get to a foot long for the
>> last stroke.
>
> sounds simple enough what type wood did you use
Redwood. Easier to plane than the SPF, usually straighter, and soft
enough to not damage what's being clamped.
On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 11:13:07 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> That is just so wrong.
how is it wrong
a caul to me has to have a curved surface otherwise it is lumber
the entire advantage of a caul to me is that you can do with two clamps
what normally would take many more
the caul might need to be customized based on caul material and the
material to be clamped
On 11/8/15 2:26 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 11:13:07 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> That is just so wrong.
>
> how is it wrong
>
> a caul to me has to have a curved surface otherwise it is lumber
>
A sentence has to have punctuation otherwise it is just words.
A curved caul is *one type* of caul. They don't all have curves.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/8/15 3:22 PM, John McCoy wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
>> I would guestimate that on a 36" wide panel, the bow in a caul need only
>> be 1/16" higher on edge than in the center. And that might be too much.
>> A caul is simply keeping the boards flat and stopping them from popping
>> up from the force of the clamps. You don't need much pressure at all to
>> accomplish that.
>
> That sounds about right. Two or three strokes with a plane.
> Maybe a tad more if it's a softish wood.
>
> The one time a caul with more curve can be useful is if you're
> trying to apply pressure at just one point, as for example in
> the middle of a panel where some internal structure is being
> glued. In that case you don't care if the ends of the caul
> don't contact the work under clamp pressure.
>
> Of course, you can get the same result with a straight caul
> by just putting a spacer under it at the point you want the
> pressure to be focused.
>
> John
>
I've done that very thing with using a spacer several times!
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 14:35:52 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> "To me" says it all.
indeed
that is also the point
i would not buy nor make a caul that was flat it would serve me no purpose
a curved one lets me do more with fewer clamps
the cauls in the lee valley are all curved and their selling point is that you
only need two clamps
On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 19:04:47 +0000 (UTC)
Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> Redwood. Easier to plane than the SPF, usually straighter, and soft
> enough to not damage what's being clamped.
will have to try this out
i have some redwood needing a purpose in life
On Mon, 9 Nov 2015 17:22:39 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> So the point is that as long as *you* have defined what an object is,
> that what it is, correct?
quite the dramatic flare you have
i do not need a flat caul
their existence is not relevant
wrong or right is not important
test of a true salesman is to sell ice cubes to eskimos and flat cauls
to a woodworker
On 11/14/15 8:08 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 11/13/2015 9:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
>> On Mon, 9 Nov 2015 17:22:39 -0800 (PST)
>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> So the point is that as long as *you* have defined what an object is,
>>> that what it is, correct?
>>
>> quite the dramatic flare you have
>>
>> i do not need a flat caul
>>
>> their existence is not relevant
>> wrong or right is not important
>>
>>
>> test of a true salesman is to sell ice cubes to eskimos and flat cauls
>> to a woodworker
>
> And a really good salesman will sell you a curved caul. Most any 2x4
> has some curve to it, a flat one is rare.
>
I call flat-n-straight 2x4s "pre-warped."
If it's not curved at the store, it will be by the time you get it home.
:-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Sat, 14 Nov 2015 05:57:58 -0800 (PST)
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> merely checking (questioning) your authority to redefine objects that
more drama
if you give anyone on the internet authority you are in trouble
On 11/6/2015 3:59 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like them
>
> they make sense to me and now i will go looking for construction methods
> to make my own
>
> the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
>
> also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
>
They don't need to be hard, or strong.
I am using 2x4's cut in half, and then put a fair curve as best I could
on mine. I use them a lot.
It lowers the number of clamps, and provides a more even glue up.
--
Jeff
On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 12:59:36 -0800, Electric Comet
<[email protected]> wrote:
>just recently discovered cauls and would like to hear how people like them
>
>they make sense to me and now i will go looking for construction methods
>to make my own
>
>the curve is the key and it looks like it may be elliptical
>
>also they need to be hard + strong + smooth + durable
>
I made mine out of Ash 1x2s glued together. I planed them on all
sides (the Ash I have is fairly rough), stained (to make 'em pretty),
and several coats of poly (makes scraping glue easy). They're drilled
for 3/8" carriage bolts and wingnuts.
>
>
>
>
>
On 11/9/2015 5:28 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Sun, 8 Nov 2015 19:04:47 +0000 (UTC)
> Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Redwood. Easier to plane than the SPF, usually straighter, and soft
>> enough to not damage what's being clamped.
>
> will have to try this out
> i have some redwood needing a purpose in life
>
>
So at first you learned that you needed hard + strong + smooth +
durable, your words.
Now redwood will work, a very soft wood.
Redwood is approximately 3 times softer than hard maple.
Rather than use the more expensive redwood you might consider white pine
or red cedar. Both are similar hardness as redwood and much less
expensive. I would save the redwood for something nicer.
On 11/13/2015 9:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Mon, 9 Nov 2015 17:22:39 -0800 (PST)
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> So the point is that as long as *you* have defined what an object is,
>> that what it is, correct?
>
> quite the dramatic flare you have
>
> i do not need a flat caul
>
> their existence is not relevant
> wrong or right is not important
>
>
> test of a true salesman is to sell ice cubes to eskimos and flat cauls
> to a woodworker
And a really good salesman will sell you a curved caul. Most any 2x4
has some curve to it, a flat one is rare.