Hi All
I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side of
some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As that
side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and countersink the
other side, but I am worried about losing so much wood at the joint.
Can I fill these blunderholes with something like epoxy resin glue and
go ahead? Or would something else be better?
As I am an Aussie, generics rather than brands would help enormously.
TIA
Mekon
--
Mekon
"Mekon" wrote
> Hi All
>
> I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side of
> some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As that side
> will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and countersink the other
> side, but I am worried about losing so much wood at the joint.
> Can I fill these blunderholes with something like epoxy resin glue and go
> ahead? Or would something else be better?
> As I am an Aussie, generics rather than brands would help enormously.
>
Is there any way you can drill a hole and fill it with a solid plug cut from
the same wood? I used to do it all the time with plug cutters. This may
not be big enough though.
Anyway, some kind of wood plug would be the way I would go on this. And
remember, a sign of a good craftperson is the ability to cover up your
mistakes.
On Tue, 09 Sep 2008 22:20:10 GMT, Mekon <[email protected]> wrote:
>Hi All
>
>I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side of
>some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As that
>side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and countersink the
>other side, but I am worried about losing so much wood at the joint.
>Can I fill these blunderholes with something like epoxy resin glue and
>go ahead? Or would something else be better?
>As I am an Aussie, generics rather than brands would help enormously.
>
>TIA
>
>Mekon
A: Don't worry about them, unless you're using the ash to hold up a wall or
something... How much strength (thickness) is needed at the joints?
B: If you want piece of mind, use a plug cutter or forstner bit to cut out a
section slightly larger than your countersink and put a plug in the hole..
No need to make it a precision or tight fit, it's really just a spacer to
prevent the screw from going through your "correct" countersink and going
through the board.. YMWV
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
"Mekon" wrote:
> I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side
> of some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As
> that side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and
> countersink the other side, but I am worried about losing so much
> wood at the joint.
I'd make this repair as a two (2) step process.
1) Mix up some laminating epoxy and apply to incorrect C'Sinks with a
small throw away brush, say a plumber's acid brush.
Just make sure everything is wet out.
Allow to kick and cure for about 12 hours.
2) Mix up some epoxy fairing putty using micro-balloons to thicken
the epoxy.
Fill C'Sinks proud using a throw away stick like a paint mixing stick.
Allow to kick and cure at least 48 hours, then sand flat with say 100
grit.
You're good to go.
BTDT, so many times I lost count.
Have fun.
Lew
"Tanus" wrote:
> Lew, you're great. I read the OP and saw that your reply was next.
> Before I even opened it, I was almost sure I could predict what
> you'd say. Sure enough, there it was - epoxy and the magic balloons.
>
> And damnit all, they work. Very well
Thank you.
Just trying to keep things simple.
IMHO, learning to use epoxy to your advantage is a very powerful arrow
in your quiver of woodworking tricks.
You don't sweat screw-ups any more since epoxy and micro-balloons will
repair almost any mistake.
Lew
> I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side of
> some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As that
> side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and countersink the
> other side, but I am worried about losing so much wood at the joint.
> Can I fill these blunderholes with something like epoxy resin glue and
> go ahead? Or would something else be better?
> As I am an Aussie, generics rather than brands would help enormously.
Some epoxies will work well, but not all epoxies are strong as gap fillers,
so generic brands might not do what you need. I'd cut a plug to fit the
countersink, epoxy it in, and then drill the other side after the epoxy
cures.
Scott
On Sep 9, 5:20=A0pm, Mekon <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side of
> some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As that
> side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and countersink the
> other side, but I am worried about losing so much wood at the joint.
> Can I fill these blunderholes with something like epoxy resin glue and
> go ahead? Or would something else be better?
> As I am an Aussie, generics rather than brands would help enormously.
>
> TIA
>
> Mekon
>
> --
> Mekon
On the cabinet above my microwave I have 1" holes (for blum hindges)
drilled on three edges of one of the doors. Obviously only one set of
holes got hindges. My plan was to plug the others with some hardwood
at some point. It has been about a year since I installed that door
and have not gotten around to it yet....probably never will.
If your holes are small enough, plug cutters can usually be had for
pretty cheap. You may just have to redrill the holes with a fostner
bit to get a good plug fit.
Mark
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Mekon" wrote:
>
>> I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side
>> of some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As
>> that side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and
>> countersink the other side, but I am worried about losing so much
>> wood at the joint.
>
> I'd make this repair as a two (2) step process.
>
> 1) Mix up some laminating epoxy and apply to incorrect C'Sinks with a
> small throw away brush, say a plumber's acid brush.
>
> Just make sure everything is wet out.
>
> Allow to kick and cure for about 12 hours.
>
> 2) Mix up some epoxy fairing putty using micro-balloons to thicken
> the epoxy.
>
> Fill C'Sinks proud using a throw away stick like a paint mixing stick.
>
> Allow to kick and cure at least 48 hours, then sand flat with say 100
> grit.
>
> You're good to go.
>
> BTDT, so many times I lost count.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Lew
>
>
Lew, you're great. I read the OP and saw that your reply was next.
Before I even opened it, I was almost sure I could predict what you'd
say. Sure enough, there it was - epoxy and the magic balloons.
And damnit all, they work. Very well
Tanus
On Tue, 09 Sep 2008 22:20:10 GMT, Mekon
<[email protected]> wrote:
>... As that
>side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and countersink the
>other side, but I am worried about losing so much wood at the joint.
>...
How much cross section would you lose? The unwanted countersinks will
be forever hidden. The amount of cross sectional area and strength
lost is probably minimal. What are we talking about? A #6 or #8
countersink? Unless it's a deep counterbore, that's no more than about
.02 square inches of cross section for a #6 or .04 for a #8.
I don't know the narrowest width of the piece through the hole, but if
it's greater than about 1/2 inch, the strength reduction will be less
than 10% in 3/4 to 1 inch stock. Flip it over and don't worry about
it.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
> Hi All
>
> I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side of some
> stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As that side will be
> hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and countersink the other side, but I
> am worried about losing so much wood at the joint.
> Can I fill these blunderholes with something like epoxy resin glue and go
> ahead? Or would something else be better?
> As I am an Aussie, generics rather than brands would help enormously.
>
> TIA
>
> Mekon
Thanks all.
As it happenned the dowels (or is it dowells? Both look wrong.) used
elsewhere in the project were an exact match for the countersunk holes.
So I just cut off eight small sections glued and drilled and it was
fixed.
I am about to post a progress pic in binaries if you would like a
squiz.
Thanks again
Mekon
--
Mekon
On Tue, 09 Sep 2008 22:44:51 +0000, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>
> "Mekon" wrote:
>
>> I have drilled some lovely neat counter sunk holes on the wrong side
>> of some stock between 3/4 and 1" thick -a hardwood, silver ash. As
>> that side will be hidden, I'd like to just flip it over and
>> countersink the other side, but I am worried about losing so much
>> wood at the joint.
>
Mekon, I missed your original post, so I'm responding via Lew.
Often when screwing two pieces of wood together, the screw raises a small
curl where the screw first enters. With no place to go, it can keep the
two pieces from fitting tightly. To prevent this, I always countersink
both sides.
You only THOUGHT you made a blunder :-).
Note: the countersink on the back side doesn't need to be as much as the
one on the front. Just enough to receive the curl.