On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 21:50:13 GMT, Phisherman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 11:16:55 -0500, Frank Boettcher
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>I did a complicated glue up on a China base cabinet carcass this
>>morning using titebond III, and had a lot of trouble with short open
>>time. Does T-III have a shorter open time than II or is it just the
>>heat? Seems like I wasn't getting but a minute or so to grab.
>>
>>Frank
>
>
>I think hard before the glue-up operation. When there are lots of
>joints to go together I will (if I can) dry fit one side and
>glue/clamp the other side. The next day, pull apart the dry side,
>then glue/clamp.
I've found that with really complex glue ups, I clamp up first, take a
few digital pictures and either print out 8.5 x 11's for reference, or
download to a lap top and have that in the shop. I'll even sequence
the clamps so I know which one to put on first, etc. Then I know
exactly what clamp goes where and when.
Frank
On Mon, 07 Aug 2006 02:23:28 GMT, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Frank Boettcher wrote:
> >
> > Going to call the Franklin people tommorrow, They've always been
> > helpful in the past when I've experienced a problem. I think it may
> > just be the heat. My shop isn't cooling down much overnight, and
> > after 2PM I don't even plan any glue work.
>
>
>Don't have a clue what the open time of T-III is; however, if you need
>longer open times than they provide, then use epoxy with a slow hardener.
A little tough to get the squeeze out off, both before and
particularly after curing.
>
>Mix small batches, then spread with a brush (I use plumber's acid
>brush for wood working glue ups) on both surfaces.
>
>Get a lot of open time this way, say at least 20-30 minutes.
>
>BTW, how hot does it get during the day in your shop this time of year?
I don't know what the temp inside was, but the outside temp has been
topping out in the 100-103 range for the last couple of weeks. I
don't have air conditioning in the shop.
>
>I often wait until 4:30-5:00 PM before doing glue ups, especially when
>it is in the 90+F range, like last week.
>
That's the worst time for this area. Usually past the high outside,
but the shop is still rising, trying to equalize. Yesterday it was 99
at 6PM. Best time is first thing in the morning.
>Lew
On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 14:28:46 -0400, Joe Bemier
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 11:16:55 -0500, Frank Boettcher
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>I did a complicated glue up on a China base cabinet carcass this
>>morning using titebond III, and had a lot of trouble with short open
>>time. Does T-III have a shorter open time than II or is it just the
>>heat? Seems like I wasn't getting but a minute or so to grab.
>>
>>Frank
>
>Sounds strange, Frank. TB3 has a longer OT than 1 or 2. It should be
>upwards of 8-10min IIRC.
>What wood type are you using?
Cherry primary, with some oak dust panel frames.
>What type of joints?
This morning, mostly corner joints, face frame to side panel with
continuous glue block, no end grain on the first glue up. Some on the
second glue up, oak end grain to cherry face grain, held with pocket
screws.
>Don't be insulted because I don't know your level of expertise but,
I'm not insulted. Thanks for the thoughts. Been using TBI & II, for
years and III since it has been out. Did not have trouble with III
earlier in the year when it was a lot cooler.
>are you sure you are applying an adequate amount? For example; end
Loading it up pretty good. I've always wanted to err on the side of
too much.
>grain of a porous stock could suck up a thinner coat and *seem* as
>though it were closing. Just a thought.
Going to call the Franklin people tommorrow, They've always been
helpful in the past when I've experienced a problem. I think it may
just be the heat. My shop isn't cooling down much overnight, and
after 2PM I don't even plan any glue work.
Frank
>
>J
Frank Boettcher wrote:
>
> Going to call the Franklin people tommorrow, They've always been
> helpful in the past when I've experienced a problem. I think it may
> just be the heat. My shop isn't cooling down much overnight, and
> after 2PM I don't even plan any glue work.
Don't have a clue what the open time of T-III is; however, if you need
longer open times than they provide, then use epoxy with a slow hardener.
Mix small batches, then spread with a brush (I use plumber's acid
brush for wood working glue ups) on both surfaces.
Get a lot of open time this way, say at least 20-30 minutes.
BTW, how hot does it get during the day in your shop this time of year?
I often wait until 4:30-5:00 PM before doing glue ups, especially when
it is in the 90+F range, like last week.
Lew
The problem is that time passes very quickly when the glue is spread and the
pieces are being put together. If you really want a divorce, ask your S.O.
to help with this for a "minute".
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I did a complicated glue up on a China base cabinet carcass this
> morning using titebond III, and had a lot of trouble with short open
> time. Does T-III have a shorter open time than II or is it just the
> heat? Seems like I wasn't getting but a minute or so to grab.
>
> Frank
On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 11:16:55 -0500, Frank Boettcher
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>I did a complicated glue up on a China base cabinet carcass this
>morning using titebond III, and had a lot of trouble with short open
>time. Does T-III have a shorter open time than II or is it just the
>heat? Seems like I wasn't getting but a minute or so to grab.
>
>Frank
Sounds strange, Frank. TB3 has a longer OT than 1 or 2. It should be
upwards of 8-10min IIRC.
What wood type are you using?
What type of joints?
Don't be insulted because I don't know your level of expertise but,
are you sure you are applying an adequate amount? For example; end
grain of a porous stock could suck up a thinner coat and *seem* as
though it were closing. Just a thought.
J
On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 11:16:55 -0500, Frank Boettcher
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>I did a complicated glue up on a China base cabinet carcass this
>morning using titebond III, and had a lot of trouble with short open
>time. Does T-III have a shorter open time than II or is it just the
>heat? Seems like I wasn't getting but a minute or so to grab.
>
>Frank
I think hard before the glue-up operation. When there are lots of
joints to go together I will (if I can) dry fit one side and
glue/clamp the other side. The next day, pull apart the dry side,
then glue/clamp.
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> I've found that with really complex glue ups, I clamp up first, take a
> few digital pictures and either print out 8.5 x 11's for reference, or
> download to a lap top and have that in the shop. I'll even sequence
> the clamps so I know which one to put on first, etc. Then I know
> exactly what clamp goes where and when.
>
> Frank
Maybe it is your method. I very seldom give much thought any more to glue
up. Perhaps it has to do with the 30+ years of doing this but my method is
to assemble as I finish spreading the glue for each joint, put the 2 pieces
together and move to the next 2 pieces to be glued. I try not to glue the
piece and let the pieces set open as I move to the next piece. After all
the pieces are put together I add the clamps.
Epoxy is like a Sailor . . . 'Wonderful handy to have around the house' . .
!!
Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote
SNIP
> longer open times than they provide, then use epoxy with a slow hardener.
>
> Mix small batches, then spread with a brush (I use plumber's acid
> brush for wood working glue ups) on both surfaces.
> SNIP