On Sun, 9 Nov 2003 09:52:41 -0700, "George M. Kazaka"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Andy FWIW you van get a "V" shaped router bit without a flat bottom 60 or
>90 degree's
You can get them, but they don't cut a vee groove.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
"Sammy" wrote ...
> I am interested in making tapered legs, and then fluting them. My Grizzly
> lathe has stops that will allow me to flute them, but I don't know how to
do
> it? Is there a router jig out there for this purpose?
Yes, but you have to make it. Check out Ernie Conover's Turning for
Furniture book and video.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
Andy FWIW you van get a "V" shaped router bit without a flat bottom 60 or
90 degree's
"Andy Dingley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 09 Nov 2003 04:00:59 GMT, "Sammy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I am interested in making tapered legs, and then fluting them. My Grizzly
> >lathe has stops that will allow me to flute them,
>
> OK, so that's half your jig made then.
>
> The other half of it is usually a U shaped "gutter"; three strips of
> ply or MDF to make a box that's rather bigger than you workpiece. You
> sit it on the bench or lathe bed and it gives you two guide surfaces a
> little higher than the workpiece. On these, you run a router (or even
> a hand scratch stock).
>
> The gutter jig needs to be parallel to the lathe axis and spaced so
> the router is running exactly on the centre. I've seen this done with
> a custom router base with its own fixed fence - very quick to set up.
>
> If your legs are tapered, or if you want tapered reeding, make the top
> of the gutter slope up or downwards to match.
>
> If you're doing this for production, you can use a scrap lathe bed to
> house the jig, rather than your turning lathe.
>
>
> IMHO, you can't cut V shaped reeds on a router. They always have a
> flat at the tip, and it just screams "routed" at me. Even if you
> removed the wood with a router, sort out a V-pointed scratch stock to
> tidy up that tip.
> --
> Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Thanks to all for your input. I ordered the book, am looking forward to
actually using the lathe.
"Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Sammy" wrote ...
> > I am interested in making tapered legs, and then fluting them. My
Grizzly
> > lathe has stops that will allow me to flute them, but I don't know how
to
> do
> > it? Is there a router jig out there for this purpose?
>
> Yes, but you have to make it. Check out Ernie Conover's Turning for
> Furniture book and video.
>
> --
>
> Cheers,
> Howard
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
> Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
>
>
On 09 Nov 2003, Andy Dingley spake unto rec.woodworking:
> IMHO, you can't cut V shaped reeds on a router. They always have a
> flat at the tip, and it just screams "routed" at me. Even if you
> removed the wood with a router, sort out a V-pointed scratch stock to
> tidy up that tip.
Once I finish making the cupboard doors and drawers for The
Interminable Bathroom Renovation Project, I am going to make a mahogany
two-drawer end table with reeded legs. I bought two of these:
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1068478199_19570+22
and though I haven't had a chance to experiment yet, the points certainly
look sufficiently sharp to do a decent job. I'll post some pics when I get
up and running on the project.
Scott
On Sun, 09 Nov 2003 04:00:59 GMT, "Sammy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am interested in making tapered legs, and then fluting them. My Grizzly
>lathe has stops that will allow me to flute them, but I don't know how to do
>it? Is there a router jig out there for this purpose?
It is easy to make one. Use MDF or quality scrap ply to make a
carriage that fits over the rails of your lathe. I use this method to
make sliding dovetail joints in a pedestal table base to attach the
legs.
On Sun, 09 Nov 2003 04:00:59 GMT, "Sammy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am interested in making tapered legs, and then fluting them. My Grizzly
>lathe has stops that will allow me to flute them,
OK, so that's half your jig made then.
The other half of it is usually a U shaped "gutter"; three strips of
ply or MDF to make a box that's rather bigger than you workpiece. You
sit it on the bench or lathe bed and it gives you two guide surfaces a
little higher than the workpiece. On these, you run a router (or even
a hand scratch stock).
The gutter jig needs to be parallel to the lathe axis and spaced so
the router is running exactly on the centre. I've seen this done with
a custom router base with its own fixed fence - very quick to set up.
If your legs are tapered, or if you want tapered reeding, make the top
of the gutter slope up or downwards to match.
If you're doing this for production, you can use a scrap lathe bed to
house the jig, rather than your turning lathe.
IMHO, you can't cut V shaped reeds on a router. They always have a
flat at the tip, and it just screams "routed" at me. Even if you
removed the wood with a router, sort out a V-pointed scratch stock to
tidy up that tip.
--
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods