I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design for
the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The rail and
stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual thickness)
plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people, but the 1/4" ply
is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to keep the panel from
rattling around, but I'm curious about how other people deal with this
problem.
todd
Todd,
"Rattling" will not be the only problem. Because the panel is too
thin, in addition to "rattling", there will be a visible gap between
the panels and the stiles, and this will look sloppy. The solution
I've used is to run a bead of quarter-round around the inside perimeter
of the door, gluing only to the door frame, not the panel itself.
In a class I took with CH Becksvoort, making a Shaker clock, we used
1/8"x3/16" quarter-round around the door panel. This works very well in
that when you install it, you can press the panel against the back,
thus taking up any slack. The panel will not rattle at all and looks
absolutely perfect.
However, having quarter-round around the inside of each panel will
change the look, so that's always something to consider.
Mike
todd wrote:
> I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
> building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design for
> the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The rail and
> stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual thickness)
> plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people, but the 1/4" ply
> is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to keep the panel from
> rattling around, but I'm curious about how other people deal with this
> problem.
>
> todd
"todd" wrote in message
> I was under the impression that the Space Balls were designed to take up
> space around the perimeter of the panel to keep it from rattling up and
down
> and sideways. I'm thinking more along the lines of in and out, if that
> makes any sense.
A solution, whichever you decide upon, generally solves both problems.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "todd" wrote in message
>> I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
>> building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design
>> for
>> the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The rail and
>> stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual thickness)
>> plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people, but the 1/4"
> ply
>> is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to keep the panel from
>> rattling around, but I'm curious about how other people deal with this
>> problem.
>
> An old cabinetmaker's trick is/was twine/string stuffed inside, and all
> around, the panel groove.
>
There is a large cabinet plant in my town.
They use a small, spongy, highly compressible, inserts in the dados. They
look like neoprene rubber weather stripping pieces to me. (I don't know
that they are actually neoprene, but for a very small project, I'd probably
look for a small neoprene "rope" and just cut the inserts about an inch
long.) The inserts keep the panels centered, but still allow expansion and
contraction. They insert the things about every 12-18 inches.
I'm guessing, if I knew what the were called, you could probably order a bag
of them, online.
"todd" wrote in message
> I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
> building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design for
> the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The rail and
> stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual thickness)
> plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people, but the 1/4"
ply
> is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to keep the panel from
> rattling around, but I'm curious about how other people deal with this
> problem.
An old cabinetmaker's trick is/was twine/string stuffed inside, and all
around, the panel groove.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
"Leon" wrote in message
> Space balls will keep the panel centered however you still have the
problem
> of the panel moving front to back and you see a gap at the front. Cut
thin
> long shims to slide into the slot behind the panel.
If you've ever used properly sized twine, it will also keep the panel from
moving front to back ... I know, I didn't believe it either. ;)
That said, I've also used plane shavings for shims on the backside, and as
far as I know they are still doing the job years later.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
> building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design
> for the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The
> rail and stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual
> thickness) plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people,
> but the 1/4" ply is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to
> keep the panel from rattling around, but I'm curious about how other
> people deal with this problem.
>
> todd
>
>
Window screen spline comes to mind. So does a spot or two of yellow glue,
judiciously applied.
Have fun with your project.
Patriarch
On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 23:03:07 -0600, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
>building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design for
>the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The rail and
>stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual thickness)
>plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people, but the 1/4" ply
>is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to keep the panel from
>rattling around, but I'm curious about how other people deal with this
>problem.
How bout a strip of veneer glued on the backside of the dado?
-Leuf
On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 23:03:07 -0600, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
>building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design for
>the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The rail and
>stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual thickness)
>plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people, but the 1/4" ply
>is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to keep the panel from
>rattling around, but I'm curious about how other people deal with this
>problem.
>
>todd
>
I use a brad nailer on all raised and flat panel doors. After
centering the panel I put one brad top and bottem center and two or
three on the stiles. Position the nailer on the panel and againest the
stile with an outward angle of about 45 degrees. Works good and lasts
a long time. Keeps panel in place and even the solid panels can move
since the brads are at an angle. For the last 15 years I have not seen
a brad work lose or a panel crack.
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> They make those "Space balls". Slip a couple in on each side of the
> panel. Tom
I was under the impression that the Space Balls were designed to take up
space around the perimeter of the panel to keep it from rattling up and down
and sideways. I'm thinking more along the lines of in and out, if that
makes any sense.
todd
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm in the process of building kitchen cabinets. I'm at the stage of
> building doors and have a problem. I'm using a frame and panel design for
> the door. The panel was intended to be 1/4" maple plywood. The rail and
> stile cutter set I have cuts a groove expecting 7/32" (actual thickness)
> plywood. This will come as a surprise to very few people, but the 1/4"
> ply is well short of 7/32". I can think of some ways to keep the panel
> from rattling around, but I'm curious about how other people deal with
> this problem.
>
> todd
>
Space balls will keep the panel centered however you still have the problem
of the panel moving front to back and you see a gap at the front. Cut thin
long shims to slide into the slot behind the panel.
todd wrote:
> "tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> They make those "Space balls". Slip a couple in on each side of the
>> panel. Tom
>
> I was under the impression that the Space Balls were designed to take
> up space around the perimeter of the panel to keep it from rattling
> up and down and sideways. I'm thinking more along the lines of in
> and out, if that makes any sense.
You could glue in small wood wedges on the back side, cut off flush. If
you dislike whatever empty space shows use tapered splines rather than
wedges.
--
dadiOH
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