I'm new to resawing (as you may have guessed from my previous post)...I've
found resawing "free-hand" without the use of a resaw fence to be easier
than using the "fence." The resaw fence seems to restrict the ability to
correct for lead and wander, but maybe I'm doing something wrong. What
advice would ya'll give to a newbie sawer? Thanks in advance!
--
J. Durango
"The greatest purveyor of violence in the world today (is) my own
government" - Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
Thankyou for all your suggestions. I have Duginske's Bandsaw Handbook and
will tune my saw per his reccomendations. One reason I went with the JET 18
is because I understood that roller guides, such as carters were generally
considered favorable to coolblocks. Anyhow, I'm sure this is negligible once
the saw is tuned properly and has a good (tw) blade. Thanks again!!
--
J. Durango
"The greatest purveyor of violence in the world today (is) my own
government" - Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Bob Bowles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Have read several other folkd with the same experience of "no lead"
> > needed as Ed. I've been using Suffolk blades for several years and
> > found each one I use does have a lead.
>
> I went to a Scott Philips demonstration about bandsaw tuning. He says
that
> a properly tuned saw should have no lead and did the demo right in front
of
> us.
>
> He tensioned the blade more than most. He goes by deflection, not the
scale
> on the saw's knob. He recommends cool blocks over rollers or other blade
> guides. It is also critical to get the blade to ride the crown of the
> wheel.
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
>
"Jonny Durango" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The resaw fence seems to restrict the ability to
> correct for lead and wander, but maybe I'm doing something wrong. What
> advice would ya'll give to a newbie sawer? Thanks in advance!
Tune up your saw, get a Timberwolf blade from Suffolk Machine and eliminate
the wander you are getting.
I use a standard fence and can slice as thin a piece as I like and do not
have to make any corrections for lead. Others share my experience.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
"Bob Bowles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Have read several other folkd with the same experience of "no lead"
> needed as Ed. I've been using Suffolk blades for several years and
> found each one I use does have a lead.
I went to a Scott Philips demonstration about bandsaw tuning. He says that
a properly tuned saw should have no lead and did the demo right in front of
us.
He tensioned the blade more than most. He goes by deflection, not the scale
on the saw's knob. He recommends cool blocks over rollers or other blade
guides. It is also critical to get the blade to ride the crown of the
wheel.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
"Jonny Durango" <[email protected]> wrote in message
...
> One reason I went with the JET 18
> is because I understood that roller guides, such as carters were generally
> considered favorable to coolblocks. Anyhow, I'm sure this is negligible
once
> the saw is tuned properly and has a good (tw) blade. Thanks again!!
I have the Duginski book also. He differs with Scott Phillips on how to
tune a saw. I have no experience with rollers guides. One may be better
than the other, or it may make no difference if everything else is in proper
shape.
Ed
Have read several other folkd with the same experience of "no lead"
needed as Ed. I've been using Suffolk blades for several years and
found each one I use does have a lead.
On Sun, 03 Aug 2003 03:08:56 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I use a standard fence and can slice as thin a piece as I like and do not
>have to make any corrections for lead. Others share my experience.