I am wanting to use my router table to create a channel in the back of an
artist easel I am building. This allows the easel to adjust to different
size frames. The channel is a 1/2" wide by 4' long cutout centered in a 3/4
x 2-1/2 by 5' peice of stock. In the past I have attempted to use a 1/4"
straight cutting bit removing 1/8" of material at eaxch pass with mixed (and
unpredictable) results.
My question is this: Is there a better way to go than the straight cutting
bit. Is an Onserud bit the right (better) bit for this operation.
Thanks (again) in advance,
Bernie.
In article <6kqhb.57566$pl3.51751@pd7tw3no>, "Bernie" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I am wanting to use my router table to create a channel in the back of an
>artist easel I am building. This allows the easel to adjust to different
>size frames. The channel is a 1/2" wide by 4' long cutout centered in a 3/4
>x 2-1/2 by 5' peice of stock. In the past I have attempted to use a 1/4"
>straight cutting bit removing 1/8" of material at eaxch pass with mixed (and
>unpredictable) results.
>
>My question is this: Is there a better way to go than the straight cutting
>bit. Is an Onserud bit the right (better) bit for this operation.
>
I'd use a dado set in a table saw to cut the groove, then clean it up with one
pass of a 1/2" bottom-cutting bit in the router.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
Bernie wrote:
> I am wanting to use my router table to create a channel in the back
> of an artist easel I am building. This allows the easel to adjust to
> different size frames. The channel is a 1/2" wide by 4' long cutout
> centered in a 3/4 x 2-1/2 by 5' peice of stock. In the past I have
> attempted to use a 1/4" straight cutting bit removing 1/8" of
> material at eaxch pass with mixed (and unpredictable) results.
>
> My question is this: Is there a better way to go than the straight
> cutting bit. Is an Onserud bit the right (better) bit for this
> operation.
When I started woodworking I had a Cra**man 1/4" router, and I built a
router table for it. Since I didn't (and still don't) have a joiner and
planer, the stock I work with isn't perfectly straight and true. It's
difficult to do a multi-pass router session with wild stock and get good
results. However, a router bit of the desired width (usually ;-) works
fine.
If you want a 1/2" channel, I suggest you get a 1/2" bit. Over time I
bought a 1/2" router and these two bit sets have done me well:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=C1703
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=C1701
If all you have is a 1/4" router, these will work:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=C1700
(After a couple minutes of searching I can't find the 1/4" shank by 1/2"
cutting bit or I'd give a URL.)
HTH.
-- Mark
"Bernie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6kqhb.57566$pl3.51751@pd7tw3no...
> straight cutting bit removing 1/8" of material at eaxch pass with mixed
(and
> unpredictable) results.
>
> My question is this: Is there a better way to go than the straight cutting
> bit. Is an Onserud bit the right (better) bit for this operation.
Routing out a groove that narrow with a small diameter bit can be hairy and
I've done it. If I get your description, the 'groove' is more of a slit
that goes through the material? If that is the case, I would suggest you
rip the 5' board in two and glue them back together with half inch wood
spacers at the ends leaving the groove in the mid portion of the board. You
could also plunge cut the slit with a circular saw like I've seen Norm do.
If I've got this all wrong..then 'scuse me.
Larry
--
Lawrence L'Hote
Columbia, MO
http://home.mchsi.com/~larrylhote
http://home.mchsi.com/~llhote