I generally use the same small brushes plumbers use to apply flux to a pipe.
Check the plumbing aisle! They are cheap and disposable too. --dave
"MrAnderson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here is my solution to glue marks:
>
> Use hide glue. Unless you are using a dark stain, any undetected glue
> marks usually blend into the finish.
>
Whats best to apply Titebond II and similar glues? Have used acid brush and
cut down paint brushes. Kind of a PIA to use. Haven't found a source for
"glue brushes". Any hints appreciated.
Mike B
"Duke of Burl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll second this method - the first step though is not to use so much
> that it's squeezing out all over the place. Brush it on and take into
> account the type of joint when you put it on. If you're getting glue
> everywhere, you're using too much.
>
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Whats best to apply Titebond II and similar glues? Have used acid brush and
cut down paint brushes. Kind of a PIA to use. Haven't found a source for
"glue brushes". Any hints appreciated.
Mike B
"Duke of Burl" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll second this method - the first step though is not to use so much
> that it's squeezing out all over the place. Brush it on and take into
> account the type of joint when you put it on. If you're getting glue
> everywhere, you're using too much.
>
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Damm, I came here looking for great insight and inspiration. Seriously,
thanks for all the comments, seems like I'm doing exactly what you are are.
Thanks again.
Mike B
"loutent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:281120051724068993%[email protected]...
> I also use whats commonly called an acid brush. Since
> my nearest water source is a distance away, I keep
> a small pail of water nearby with a small sponge
> and an old washcloth for cleanups. Usually, I will
> toss the brush in the pail at the end of the glue session.
> Many times, they can be reused, but it seems lately
> that I got a batch where the bristles fall out easily.
>
> The one glue accessory that I have really latched on
> to is a bottle with a wide roller tip. This saves so
> much time in certain instances that I think that I
> could not do without it now.
>
> Lou
>
> In article <[email protected]>, Leuf
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 07:36:09 -0800, "nevems2" <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >Whats best to apply Titebond II and similar glues?
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In article <[email protected]>,
Duke of Burl <[email protected]> wrote:
> I keep a bunch of these around
> http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=2&p=10327&cat=2,2180,41007
>
>
> I'll clean them and re-use them but if I get side-tracked and forget,
> it's no big deal just to toss it.
They do tend to shed bristles, though. Still, I keep a bag ful of them
around too.
I also use whats commonly called an acid brush. Since
my nearest water source is a distance away, I keep
a small pail of water nearby with a small sponge
and an old washcloth for cleanups. Usually, I will
toss the brush in the pail at the end of the glue session.
Many times, they can be reused, but it seems lately
that I got a batch where the bristles fall out easily.
The one glue accessory that I have really latched on
to is a bottle with a wide roller tip. This saves so
much time in certain instances that I think that I
could not do without it now.
Lou
In article <[email protected]>, Leuf
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 07:36:09 -0800, "nevems2" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >Whats best to apply Titebond II and similar glues? Have used acid brush and
> >cut down paint brushes. Kind of a PIA to use. Haven't found a source for
> >"glue brushes". Any hints appreciated.
>
> For detailed stuff I like to use a little rod of scrap wood cut at an
> angle on the end. Can use the point to get in the tight spots, and
> the face of the angle to spread with. The nearest sink is up a flight
> of stairs, so a glue brush is pretty much guaranted to be use once and
> then in the trash for me. This way I can just keep cutting the end
> off to get a fresh end until it's too short to use. On larger pieces
> I'll apply the glue directly to the piece and use the stick to spread
> it, for small stuff I'll squeeze out a blob on the back of a used up
> piece of sandpaper and dip. Works for me.
>
>
> -Leuf
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> What's the best way to clean up some glue (e.g. Titebond II) that gets
> on the surface of wood, such as oak? Will a damp rag be good enough?
I prefer waiting until the glue gets to a rubbery snot consistency, then
using a sharp chisel to carefully shave it off. The damp rag has never
worked for me.
Barry
In article <[email protected]>, nevems2
@ableweb.net says...
> Damm, I came here looking for great insight and inspiration. Seriously,
> thanks for all the comments, seems like I'm doing exactly what you are are.
> Thanks again.
>
snip
I picked this tip up from Rob Cosman's video on making hand cut
dovetails: he uses a flexible artist's knife for applying white glue.
The knives are very cheap and in this situation at least are far better
than acid brushes which I buy in quantity whenever the woodworking show
arrives in town.
When I dry fit the pieces, I'll wipe on a coat of paste wax (some can of
Minwax I've had for a decade) around the joints. Does not take very long
and makes glue removal a snap. As I almost always use a tung/poly or
linseed/poly mix for finish the wax does not interfere with the finish.
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> What's the best way to clean up some glue (e.g. Titebond II) that gets
> on the surface of wood, such as oak? Will a damp rag be good enough? I
> recently put some stain on some oak, and some areas containing residual
> glue marred the finish.
>
>
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> What's the best way to clean up some glue (e.g. Titebond II) that gets
> on the surface of wood, such as oak? Will a damp rag be good enough?
Maybe. If you are thorough and careful. Obviously, the glue has to be
still liquid. If it has dried, scraping works best for me. Or shaving
it off with a sharp chisel.
If you are talking about squeeze out from joints rather than just having
inadvertantly slopped some somewhere, a chisel/scraper is the way to go
IMO. After it is dry it has shrunk, is hard and comes off easily with
the chisel. There should be just tiny beads...if you have lots of
squeeze out you are using too much glue.
The trouble with using water to remove squeeze out is that one tends to
push it around and leave a tiny bit in the grain and that residual glue
is hard to get off when dry and messes up the finishing. If the wood
has been finished before gluing the joint (I often do so) water, paper
towels and a scraper made of hardwood work pretty well.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
If talking squeeze out from joints, better way is blue
painters tape on the wood, let the squeeze out get on the tape
instead of on the wood
John
On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 13:33:09 GMT, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> What's the best way to clean up some glue (e.g. Titebond II) that gets
>> on the surface of wood, such as oak? Will a damp rag be good enough? I
>> recently put some stain on some oak, and some areas containing residual
>> glue marred the finish.
>>
>>
>
>For years I have had success with using a paper towel that is almost
>dripping wet. If you get enough water on there it glue will wash away.
>Turn the towel frequently.
>
"LDR" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, nevems2
> @ableweb.net says...
>> Damm, I came here looking for great insight and inspiration. Seriously,
>> thanks for all the comments, seems like I'm doing exactly what you are
>> are.
>> Thanks again.
>>
> snip
>
> I picked this tip up from Rob Cosman's video on making hand cut
> dovetails: he uses a flexible artist's knife for applying white glue.
> The knives are very cheap and in this situation at least are far better
> than acid brushes which I buy in quantity whenever the woodworking show
> arrives in town.
they're called palette knives. you can buy them in different shapes and
lengths.
On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 07:36:09 -0800, "nevems2" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Whats best to apply Titebond II and similar glues? Have used acid brush and
>cut down paint brushes. Kind of a PIA to use. Haven't found a source for
>"glue brushes". Any hints appreciated.
For detailed stuff I like to use a little rod of scrap wood cut at an
angle on the end. Can use the point to get in the tight spots, and
the face of the angle to spread with. The nearest sink is up a flight
of stairs, so a glue brush is pretty much guaranted to be use once and
then in the trash for me. This way I can just keep cutting the end
off to get a fresh end until it's too short to use. On larger pieces
I'll apply the glue directly to the piece and use the stick to spread
it, for small stuff I'll squeeze out a blob on the back of a used up
piece of sandpaper and dip. Works for me.
-Leuf
On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 07:36:09 -0800, "nevems2" <[email protected]>
scribbled:
>Whats best to apply Titebond II and similar glues? Have used acid brush and
>cut down paint brushes. Kind of a PIA to use. Haven't found a source for
>"glue brushes". Any hints appreciated.
Index finger, which then get wiped on seat of pants and eventually
applied to best couch/chair seat, resulting in divorce. I also use
scraps of wood. Lately this has been a bunch 1/2"-wide strips of 1/8
baltic birch ply, 6 or 7 inches long.
Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:WikiProject_Woodworking
"Buck Turgidson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> What's the best way to clean up some glue (e.g. Titebond II) that gets
> on the surface of wood, such as oak? Will a damp rag be good enough? I
> recently put some stain on some oak, and some areas containing residual
> glue marred the finish.
>
>
For years I have had success with using a paper towel that is almost
dripping wet. If you get enough water on there it glue will wash away.
Turn the towel frequently.
On Tue, 29 Nov 2005 01:28:36 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Lew
Hodgett <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>RE: Subject
>
>Classic Harbor Freight item.
>
>Acid brushes when they are on sale.
>
>I buy at least 30 at a pop, then use and pitch.
Horse hair or plastic bristled? I prefer the horse hair.
Snip some short for tight spots where you want a precision
dab. Paint can caps work well as containers for refilling
the brush.
>Life it too short to sweat the petty stuff of even pet the sweaty stuff.
You hang with the wrong wimmenz, Lew.
---
- Sarcasm is just one more service we offer. -
http://diversify.com Web Applications
"nevems2" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Whats best to apply Titebond II and similar glues? Have used acid brush
> and
> cut down paint brushes. Kind of a PIA to use. Haven't found a source for
> "glue brushes". Any hints appreciated.
I use the 3/8" acid brushes and toss them in a plastic cup filled with water
to keep the glue from drying on them.