I'm finding out rather quickly the learning curve for a new woodworker
is relatively steep (read: last project I learned way more than I
wanted to via mistakes and improvisation). Anyway, I'm creating a
fixed ladder for my closed stairwell and was wondering if anyone has
created a ladder in the past and has some wisdom to impart upon me.
I'm using 3" (actual) Oak for the sides and 3 1/2" for the steps. I
believe I'm going to use 1/4" dados for the steps, copying a design
from a ladder I saw at Borders. The ladder will be 12' when it's
finished.
In my research I've noticed most library ladders have a very long and
narrow bolt (probably 8 gauge) that stretches from one side of the
ladder to the other. Is this elongated bolt necessary? Does anyone
know where I can find these bolts...web searches have turned up
nothing at this point.
Thanks in advance,
jeb
On Wed 13 Aug 2003 09:50:18p, [email protected] (Jeb Sawyer) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> In my research I've noticed most library ladders have a very long and
> narrow bolt (probably 8 gauge) that stretches from one side of the
> ladder to the other. Is this elongated bolt necessary? Does anyone
> know where I can find these bolts...web searches have turned up
> nothing at this point.
>
For what you're doing - correct me if I'm wrong: you're putting it under
each rung to both support the tread and keep the sides tight - I think
threaded rod would do just fine. Pretty cheap at your local hardware store,
or the BigBox if you're into that sort of thing.
As to whether it's necessary, my opinion is if the treads are joined
properly to the sides and if very large people aren't going to be climbing
it all day every day, no it's not. If it's getting a lot of use and you're
worried about your joinery, it couldn't hurt anything except maybe the
aesthetics. I guess if I was a head librarian I'd want overkill just to be
on the safe side.
Dan
The rod is to keep the sides from separating, which you know. If yours is a
"fixed" installation, there will be little need for the rods. Now if you
have splayed legs on the ground, or lean a lot, you might want to try them -
or sliding dovetails.
If you've just gotta have 'em, thread your own mild steel rod.
"Jeb Sawyer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Anyway, I'm creating a
> fixed ladder for my closed stairwell and was wondering if anyone has
> created a ladder in the past and has some wisdom to impart upon me.
>
> I'm using 3" (actual) Oak for the sides and 3 1/2" for the steps. I
> believe I'm going to use 1/4" dados for the steps, copying a design
> from a ladder I saw at Borders. The ladder will be 12' when it's
> finished.
>
> In my research I've noticed most library ladders have a very long and
> narrow bolt (probably 8 gauge) that stretches from one side of the
> ladder to the other. Is this elongated bolt necessary? Does anyone
> know where I can find these bolts...web searches have turned up
> nothing at this point.
"Jeb Sawyer" writes:
> Anyway, I'm creating a
> fixed ladder for my closed stairwell and was wondering if anyone has
> created a ladder in the past and has some wisdom to impart upon me.
<snip>
Believe it or not, I have built several construction ladders from standard
2x4 construction lumber for use in building my boat.
The following works for me and is offered for your favorable consideration.
1) Build steps on 12" intervals.
2) Incline the steps 10 degrees to the side rails.
3) Cut dadoes 1/4" deep into side rails for the steps.
And now the real trick.
Build a right hand and a left hand fixture for your router to cut the
dadoes.
This will insure that the step spacing remains constant which is very
important.
For further info on ladders, I refer you to "Skenes Elements of Yacht
Design" ( long out of print) but available at the library and Fred Bingham's
"Practical Yacht Joinery".
They both discuss ladders for sail boats in detail which is what I used as a
model for my ladders.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
I wrote:
> > And now the real trick.
> >
> > Build a right hand and a left hand fixture for your router to cut the
> > dadoes.
"Jeb Sawyer"asks:
> Can you tell me more about what this fixture would look like. It's a
> great idea, I just don't have a sense of how to make something like
> this.
Make a frame that slips over the rail at a 10 degrees angle that allows the
router base plate to contact each edge + thickness of step.
This will allow you to use a router to cut the dado.
Add an extension and add a pad the slips into the last cut dado, to insure
an even spacing.
Get some scrap wood, say 1/2" plywood, and play with it. You'll get the
idea.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures