So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at Harbor
Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the next? I
can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the brad/staple guns an
exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer will be a new thing for
me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode cordless framing and finish
nailers before.
Thanks in advance.
Ed
Nova <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> The "call before you dig" laws vary by state. In NY there is no > 16"
> stipulation. The only exception to the law is farming.
>
> There are some places where the transcontinental fiber optic cable
> that I'm responsible for is at a depth of only 4" deep to cross over
> other utilities.
>
>
Four inches?! I can understand not wanting to mess with the other
utilities, but we've had vehicles make that deep of impression trying to
cross our wet yard.
Puckdropper
--
On Usenet, no one can hear you laugh. That's a good thing, though, as some
writers are incorrigible.
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Leon wrote:
>
> I did check with the local utilities. In fact the local water and sewer
> will only locate up to the meter. From the meter to the house you are on
> your own. Additionally unless going over 16" deep there is no requirement
> to request a location. I cut a cable line 6 weeks ago at 12". I paid them
> to repair the section however they attempted to charge me for a complete
> 100' replacement. It appears that they were lucky that I reported the cut
> and paid for the repair at all as I really did not have to call at all and
> they showed up past the required wait period to mark their line.
The "call before you dig" laws vary by state. In NY there is no > 16"
stipulation. The only exception to the law is farming.
There are some places where the transcontinental fiber optic cable that
I'm responsible for is at a depth of only 4" deep to cross over other
utilities.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Jan 8, 4:26=A0am, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Just curious, what do you use for gun oil?
Bostitch BC604.
http://tinyurl.com/7xah95
I buy it by the quart when I can and put it in smaller bottles.
You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch. But
oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
learned that one the hard way!)
Most manufacturers have some jobber package the oil for them, and I
think just about every major brand of nailer has their own branded
bottle.
Robert
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Markem" wrote:
>
>
>>One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
>>last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
>
>
> Make mine the two (2) man version along with two (2) guys from the day
> labor pool located on the corner.
>
> Lew
>
>
Agreed, for a few holes.
In my area there are a number of contractors with hydraulic augers that
mount on a backhoe/mini excavator's boom arm. The going rate is about
$10 per hole. The minimum number of holes vary but it's usually between
6 and 10. In my opinion it's worth the expense.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Jan 7, 7:20=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
>
> oiling. =A0It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. =A0With proper
> oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
> even in a professional environment.
>
> What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
> tool?
>
> Lew
"David G. Nagel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Ed Edelenbos wrote:
>> So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at
>> Harbor Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the
>> next? I can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the
>> brad/staple guns an exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer
>> will be a new thing for me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode
>> cordless framing and finish nailers before.
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Ed
>
> Ed;
>
> I have several brad nailers/staplers. Some I got with air compressors,
> some I purchased. They all seem to perform equally well. However, I would
> not use them in an industrial environment. They are on the light side.
>
> Even though you don't anticipate using staples I recommend you getting a
> combo nailer/stapler. The difference between with and without staples is
> insignificant.
>
> Dave
Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.
Ed
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c389e208-19ea-4f71-b580-592efaf9ac03@k36g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
> On Jan 6, 10:54 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
>> volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.
>
> Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
> performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
> a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
> in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
> morning door buster/bait ad.
>
> Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.
>
> If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
> know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
> to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
> purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.
>
> I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
> but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
> haven't looked back.
>
> Robert
Par for the course... I went to the local and they didn't have any in
stock. I do have another question if anyone feels like it; how about the
difference between oil and oil free? It seems to me like the oil models
would be the better bet but what say y'all?
Ed
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jan 7, 12:42 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Par for the course... I went to the local and they didn't have any in
>> stock.
>
> Didja get a rain check?
>
>> I do have another question if anyone feels like it; how about the
>> difference between oil and oil free? It seems to me like the oil models
>> would be the better bet but what say y'all?
>
> I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
> oiling. It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. With proper
> oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
> even in a professional environment.
>
> An example would by my Hitachi roofing gun. Over the years it has
> been used to shingle roofs (its portion on about half a roof is over
> 7,000 per roof!), apply insulation, and fabricate site built trusses.
> This is a utility nailer. When I use it all day, I oil the snot out
> of it in the morning, and then again when starting after lunch. I
> mean soak it. When it fires, you see the oil mist come out of it. It
> hasn't had seals in 5 years of use.
>
> I have about 25 or so pneumatic nailers, and I like the oiled guns
> because they are easy to find rebuild kits to repair them is
> necessary. In fact, when I am in full swing, my fastener guys replace
> all soft parts free in my oiled guns when I buy nails and staples from
> them.
>
> Because of their reliability and performance, I switched all my gun
> purchases over to Bostitch brand over a period of time, and when I
> needed a new brad nailer and 15 ga angle nailer, the fastener guys
> made me a great deal on the magnesium framed oiless guns. They are
> nice. I have trimmed a couple of houses with them, and like my other
> Bostitch guns, they performed flawlessly.
>
> The oiless trim guns might be good for some for a couple of reasons.
> First, you can't over oil the gun and spew oil mist or have a dirty
> drop of oil fall on your project. Second, you don't have to remember
> to oil the gun, so you don't worry about blowing out the seals.
>
> The oiless guns cost more, but the last time I bought guns, they were
> a <<LOT>> more. If I wasn't offered a deal on the guns, I wouldn't
> have purchased the oiless.
>
> I think either way you go, you will be fine. I would be more
> interested in how the gun feels in my hand, and its reputation for
> reliability balanced with price.
>
> I have no beef with the HF brad guns I have. At $10, they were an
> excellent buy. If I have an amigo or sub on the job that bursts a
> seal on a gun, he can borrow them anytime with no heartburn from me,
> and the work on the job can continue. I bought them to be utility
> tackers, and they have far exceeded my expectations. At $10 (I think
> the door buster price is nnow $14) it came with a bottle of oil, a
> cleaning brush(?) and a rebuild kit for the cylinder and trigger.
>
> I think the last time I looked at the Bostitch bradder that was a mag/
> oiless, it was about $120 locally.
>
> But CPO has them reconditioned at an excellent price:
>
> < http://www.cpobostitch.com/nailers/finishing_nailers/bt200k-2-r.html>
>
> For $49, I don't know how you could beat the price if you are looking
> at an oiless.
>
> Good luck on your purchase.
>
> Robert
>
Thanks for the add'l info. I hadn't thought about the chance of oil on the
work. I can see how that might really matter. And no, I didn't get a rain
check. It seems like these things are on sale more than they aren't... of
course that probably only applies to the times I was looking and planning,
not when I'm ready to buy.
Some of what you say makes me think. Should I buy 2 of the HF guns (so I
have a spare when one goes down) or should I go for the Bostitch. (grin)
Ed
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
>> volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.
>>
>> Ed
>
> I typically don't cut corners on nail guns. I do however have a HF staple
> gun that I bought for a specific job and figured that if it lasted past
> that I would be ahead of the game. It still works and I am still happy
> with it. If you are going to be an occasional user I'd say go for it.
> Worst case, you use it a lot and it eventually fails, then you up grade.
>
> And uh Nailshooter is the guy to listen to concerning these particular
> type tools. Robert the Bostich framer that I bought per your
> recommendation is doing great and is building more fences than I actually
> like to do. Now if only there was a post hole digger that could see
> cables and pipes before you begin to dig.
Post hole diggers are the one tool I always hope are broken when I go to get
it. The same goes for digging bars. They always seem to be in good shape,
though.
Ed
"DejaVoodoo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:a6495b1a-4d59-4cb6-b642-dd54c94d8a66@c36g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
> On Jan 6, 11:43 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> On Jan 6, 10:54 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a
>> > high
>> > volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.
>>
>> Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
>> performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
>> a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
>> in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
>> morning door buster/bait ad.
>>
>> Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.
>>
>> If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
>> know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
>> to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
>> purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.
>>
>> I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
>> but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
>> haven't looked back.
>>
>> Robert
>
> Ditto that...I got mine for 10 bucks about 6 years ago also....still
> works fine. I also have one that came with a small compressor I
> purchaed but have never had a need to even get it out of the box.
>
> MArk
Thanks guys. I went to the other HF (not quite as local but still less than
an hour away) and they had the gun in stock ($20). It is an oiled combo
brad/stapler gun. It'll hold up to 2" brads. I brought it home, read the
manual and shot a few 1" brads. It's everything I need for now.
Ed
On Jan 8, 12:43=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Ever try red tranny fluid?
>
> Was told some suppliers packaged it as air tool oil.
I doubt it since tranny fluid is really refined stuff with detergents,
suspension agents, etc., in it as well as treatments to keep the acid
levels down as the oil gets dirty.
But.. that being said, I have heard that car repair shops have used
tranny fluid in their pneumatic tools like sanders, wrenches and body
saws, which use a different fluid entirely than the ones used in nail
guns.
No personal experience on that one.
Robert
On Jan 7, 7:20=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
>
> oiling. =A0It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. =A0With proper
> oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
> even in a professional environment.
>
> What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
> tool?
>
> Lew
I never liked them. In a really high usage application (nailing/
stapling decking, framing, shingling), they don't keep up. Out in the
field, the inherent dust of a jobsite can clog the dispenser. On the
other hand, they can over oil your smaller guns, as all the oil
trapped in the lines has to work out of the lines before an adjustment
will occur at the gun end.
The worst part though, is that a hose used with an oiler is dedicated
to rough work only. It cannot be used with your oiless tools, and
never can be used again for any kind of air supply for finishing.
That hose would be marked well and used by me correctly, but if the
guys load that one in the truck and get set up with it... could be
bad depending on the day's task.
Robert
On Jan 7, 10:34=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was specifically referring to in line oilers that attach directly to
> the tool..
>
> 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" dia, maybe 2" long, clear plastic with a fill screw.
>
> Probably don't hold more than 2 oz of oil.
>
> No back flow so they don't leak oil when just attached to the tool
> with no hose attached.
> Uses general purpose air that hopefully is dry.
We may not be talking about the same thing. I have experience with
these:
<http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat09.html>
and their variants. You load it with oil, with the discharge end
pointed at the gun.
Most of the descriptions of this device are paraphrased (swiped from
one of the vendor sites) with "a mist of oil is sprayed into the line
or directly into the gun depending on its location. This mist is
actuated when the gun is fired".
Besides not working well, they were fragile when mounted directly
behind the larger guns and broke often. They also make the smaller
guns awkward to handle with the extra fittings they require. So this
meant mounting the oiler at the other end of the hose, again resulting
in the previously described problems.
I also tried this type model:
<http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?
Itemnumber=3D40312>
It may work well in a shop environment, but again, not in the field.
This one has no choice of installation position, and it must go on the
compressor side of the hose. Again, see the above post.
Those are the only two oilers I have actually tried. Are you thinking
of another one? If you know of a spiffy little oiler that is really
<<small>> behind the guns (metal cased) I would love to check it out.
I found the smaller oiler referenced above would be fine for work in
big open places where you could set the gun down out of the way.
The oiler itself is only about 2 1/2" long, but with the additional
fittings for it to hook to your air lines it adds about 6" in total of
inflexible, stiff brass connectors and the oiler to deal with behind
the gun.
I have found it easier to make sure I am the only one that uses my
oiless guns, and to keep several refillable bottles of gun oil around
in the truck and in the gun cases.
Robert
<[email protected]> wrote:
>You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch.
>But
oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
learned that one the hard way!)
Ever try red tranny fluid?
Was told some suppliers packaged it as air tool oil.
Lew
Puckdropper wrote:
> Nova <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>
>>The "call before you dig" laws vary by state. In NY there is no > 16"
>>stipulation. The only exception to the law is farming.
>>
>>There are some places where the transcontinental fiber optic cable
>>that I'm responsible for is at a depth of only 4" deep to cross over
>>other utilities.
>>
>>
>
>
> Four inches?! I can understand not wanting to mess with the other
> utilities, but we've had vehicles make that deep of impression trying to
> cross our wet yard.
>
> Puckdropper
Likewise a Vermeer pavement saw can make a mess of a fiber optic cable.
http://www.vermeer.com/vcom/TrenchingEquipment/Model.jsp?PrdlnID=3618&ModID=53362
FYI, When the cable was first installed over twenty years ago the depth
was about 4'. Over the years the areas were regraded causing the
problem. When we know about regrading (we're not always notified) we do
encase the cable in split steel conduit, but something like a pavement
saw above cuts through steel conduit like butter.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> Four inches?! I can understand not wanting to mess with the other
> utilities, but we've had vehicles make that deep of impression trying to
> cross our wet yard.
Yeah, but hopefully there aren't 4' sewer lines or similar buried a few more
inches under your yard. :)
"Markem" <markem(sixoneeight)@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
>>and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
>>looking forward to that task!
>
> One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
> last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
Actually I have used them and prefer the standard manual labor post hole
digger. The gas operated ones are no better at detecting under ground cable
or pipe. Had I been using one on the last 2 jobs I would have been in a
hellofa mess.
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Markem" wrote:
>
>> One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
>> last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
>
> Make mine the two (2) man version along with two (2) guys from the day
> labor pool located on the corner.
>
> Lew
Agreed, or as Jack suggested just rent a backhoe auger. A buddy of mine
and I recently drilled eight 24" holes into the dry Austin Texas clay
and limestone with a two-man 12" auger. Oh. My. GAWD. I may just be a
wimp, but that was the most physically demanding thing I've ever done.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch. But
> oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
> acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
> learned that one the hard way!)
>
> Ever try red tranny fluid?
>
>
Or Peppermint Oil?
"Leon" wrote:
> Actually I have used them and prefer the standard manual labor post
> hole digger. The gas operated ones are no better at detecting under
> ground cable or pipe. Had I been using one on the last 2 jobs I
> would have been in a hellofa mess.
It's up to you to check with the utilities before you dig.
Lew
"Phisherman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 23:23:10 -0500, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
> None, why buy frustration? Avoid "Made in China."
I have two HF guns "Made in China" that were $20 new and have been used
heavily for three years. No frustration here.
cm
"Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
> volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.
>
> Ed
I typically don't cut corners on nail guns. I do however have a HF staple
gun that I bought for a specific job and figured that if it lasted past that
I would be ahead of the game. It still works and I am still happy with it.
If you are going to be an occasional user I'd say go for it. Worst case,
you use it a lot and it eventually fails, then you up grade.
And uh Nailshooter is the guy to listen to concerning these particular type
tools. Robert the Bostich framer that I bought per your recommendation is
doing great and is building more fences than I actually like to do. Now if
only there was a post hole digger that could see cables and pipes before you
begin to dig.
I asked:
> What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
> tool?
<[email protected]> answered:
>I never liked them. In a really high usage application (nailing/
stapling decking, framing, shingling), they don't keep up. Out in the
field, the inherent dust of a jobsite can clog the dispenser. On the
other hand, they can over oil your smaller guns, as all the oil
trapped in the lines has to work out of the lines before an adjustment
will occur at the gun end.
The worst part though, is that a hose used with an oiler is dedicated
to rough work only. It cannot be used with your oiless tools, and
never can be used again for any kind of air supply for finishing.
That hose would be marked well and used by me correctly, but if the
guys load that one in the truck and get set up with it... could be
bad depending on the day's task.
OK, let's try again since it is obvious I wasn't specific enough with
my first post.
I was specifically referring to in line oilers that attach directly to
the tool..
1-1/4" to 1-1/2" dia, maybe 2" long, clear plastic with a fill screw.
Probably don't hold more than 2 oz of oil.
No back flow so they don't leak oil when just attached to the tool
with no hose attached.
Uses general purpose air that hopefully is dry.
Sorry for the confusion.
Lew
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
oiling. It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. With proper
oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
even in a professional environment.
What has been your experience with in line oilers installed on the
tool?
Lew
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, simplfy markem,
> (sixoneeight)@hotmail wrote:
>>On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
>>>and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
>>>looking forward to that task!
>>
>>One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
>>last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
>
> How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
> Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in
> *dry*
> clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the
> soil.
> You're better off digging by hand.
The post hole diggers I have seem to fit my wife's hands better than mine:-)
cm
"Leon" wrote:
> I did check with the local utilities. In fact the local water and
> sewer will only locate up to the meter. From the meter to the house
> you are on your own. Additionally unless going over 16" deep there
> is no requirement to request a location. I cut a cable line 6 weeks
> ago at 12". I paid them to repair the section however they
> attempted to charge me for a complete 100' replacement. It appears
> that they were lucky that I reported the cut and paid for the repair
> at all as I really did not have to call at all and they showed up
> past the required wait period to mark their line.
Don't know about your area, but here in SoCal, the utilities have a
collective 800#, listed as "Call before digging", in the local phone
book, for underground utilities.
I let my principles make the phone calls, so I'm not up to snuff on
the details.
Lew
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Actually I have used them and prefer the standard manual labor post hole
>> digger. The gas operated ones are no better at detecting under ground
>> cable or pipe. Had I been using one on the last 2 jobs I would have been
>> in a hellofa mess.
>
>
> It's up to you to check with the utilities before you dig.
>
> Lew
I did check with the local utilities. In fact the local water and sewer
will only locate up to the meter. From the meter to the house you are on
your own. Additionally unless going over 16" deep there is no requirement
to request a location. I cut a cable line 6 weeks ago at 12". I paid them
to repair the section however they attempted to charge me for a complete
100' replacement. It appears that they were lucky that I reported the cut
and paid for the repair at all as I really did not have to call at all and
they showed up past the required wait period to mark their line.
I have a few brad only guns and a few brad/staple guns from HF. The only
drawback to the brad/staple gun is that it leaves a staple size dent in the
wood even if you are shooting brads. Other than that they all work fine. We
use them in our woodshop and in our home repair business.
cm
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c389e208-19ea-4f71-b580-592efaf9ac03@k36g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 6, 10:54 pm, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks. I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a high
> volume/industrial situation. More of a hobbyist type thing.
Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
morning door buster/bait ad.
Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.
If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.
I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
haven't looked back.
Robert
"Nova" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> There are some places where the transcontinental fiber optic cable that
> I'm responsible for is at a depth of only 4" deep to cross over other
> utilities.
My telephone line actually comes out of the ground and then goes back under,
in my back yard. I gotta get them to come out and burry it.
"MikeWhy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I'd been meaning to ask. Aside from the baby ass scent in baby oil, is it
OK
> to use around the shop as a substitute for mineral oil? Also, I had
noticed
> its ability to strip grimed surface dirt off finished furniture. Is this
> harmful to the finish? (Store bought item; finish unknown, but presumed to
> be polyurethane.)
Yes, but buy the unscented baby oil which is readily available at most drug
stores. In fact it's what I used on my entertainment centre a number of
years ago. Minwax gel stain, then the baby oil rubbed in with 0000 steel
wool, finished with wiping everything off. Still looks good.
On Jan 6, 11:43=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Jan 6, 10:54=A0pm, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Thanks. =A0I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a =
high
> > volume/industrial situation. =A0More of a hobbyist type thing.
>
> Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
> performers. =A0I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
> a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
> in them when I was work. =A0They were something like $10 each on a early
> morning door buster/bait ad.
>
> Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.
>
> If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. =A0As you
> know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
> to lot in their manufacturing. =A0I have a couple of my compatriots that
> purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.
>
> I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
> but problems. =A0They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
> haven't looked back.
>
> Robert
Ditto that...I got mine for 10 bucks about 6 years ago also....still
works fine. I also have one that came with a small compressor I
purchaed but have never had a need to even get it out of the box.
MArk
For home/hobby use you can beat the HFT tool that works after the
first few tries. And, so far, you can't beat them for taking back most
anything you have a complaint about and offering you a trade out or
merchandise card (if you've lost your receipt).
I last bought the 15 gauge Finisher Nailer when it was on-sale and
applied a 20% off coupon. When I found a great looking Hitachi at
Lowes for $44!! (bought two, one to give as a present) I took the HFT
back (it did hang a bit) and got full credit on my CC.
I deal with two HFT's in different states and cannot complain about
their return policy.
Wonder how their stock is doin in these hard times?
On Jan 7, 12:42=A0pm, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Par for the course... =A0I went to the local and they didn't have any in
> stock. =A0
Didja get a rain check?
> I do have another question if anyone feels like it; =A0how about the
> difference between oil and oil free? =A0It seems to me like the oil model=
s
> would be the better bet but what say y'all?
I started using pneumatic equipment in the mid 70's, so I am used to
oiling. It is an easy habit to get into and stay with. With proper
oiling, the "o" rings will last as much as a couple of years or more,
even in a professional environment.
An example would by my Hitachi roofing gun. Over the years it has
been used to shingle roofs (its portion on about half a roof is over
7,000 per roof!), apply insulation, and fabricate site built trusses.
This is a utility nailer. When I use it all day, I oil the snot out
of it in the morning, and then again when starting after lunch. I
mean soak it. When it fires, you see the oil mist come out of it. It
hasn't had seals in 5 years of use.
I have about 25 or so pneumatic nailers, and I like the oiled guns
because they are easy to find rebuild kits to repair them is
necessary. In fact, when I am in full swing, my fastener guys replace
all soft parts free in my oiled guns when I buy nails and staples from
them.
Because of their reliability and performance, I switched all my gun
purchases over to Bostitch brand over a period of time, and when I
needed a new brad nailer and 15 ga angle nailer, the fastener guys
made me a great deal on the magnesium framed oiless guns. They are
nice. I have trimmed a couple of houses with them, and like my other
Bostitch guns, they performed flawlessly.
The oiless trim guns might be good for some for a couple of reasons.
First, you can't over oil the gun and spew oil mist or have a dirty
drop of oil fall on your project. Second, you don't have to remember
to oil the gun, so you don't worry about blowing out the seals.
The oiless guns cost more, but the last time I bought guns, they were
a <<LOT>> more. If I wasn't offered a deal on the guns, I wouldn't
have purchased the oiless.
I think either way you go, you will be fine. I would be more
interested in how the gun feels in my hand, and its reputation for
reliability balanced with price.
I have no beef with the HF brad guns I have. At $10, they were an
excellent buy. If I have an amigo or sub on the job that bursts a
seal on a gun, he can borrow them anytime with no heartburn from me,
and the work on the job can continue. I bought them to be utility
tackers, and they have far exceeded my expectations. At $10 (I think
the door buster price is nnow $14) it came with a bottle of oil, a
cleaning brush(?) and a rebuild kit for the cylinder and trigger.
I think the last time I looked at the Bostitch bradder that was a mag/
oiless, it was about $120 locally.
But CPO has them reconditioned at an excellent price:
< http://www.cpobostitch.com/nailers/finishing_nailers/bt200k-2-r.html>
For $49, I don't know how you could beat the price if you are looking
at an oiless.
Good luck on your purchase.
Robert
On Jan 6, 10:54=A0pm, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks. =A0I should have thrown in there that it will not be used in a hi=
gh
> volume/industrial situation. =A0More of a hobbyist type thing.
Ed - I have a couple of those HF guns, and they have been solid
performers. I bought them for Christmas give aways one year and kept
a couple for myself as thought I would keep different sizes of brads
in them when I was work. They were something like $10 each on a early
morning door buster/bait ad.
Here we are five years later, and they still work perfectly.
If you get the nailer/stapler combo, check it out right away. As you
know, quality from HF can vary wildly, and even a great deal from lot
to lot in their manufacturing. I have a couple of my compatriots that
purchased the combo guns that had nothing but jams.
I don't know if it was the gun or the staples, but they had nothing
but problems. They took them back and purchased brad only guns, and
haven't looked back.
Robert
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>You can use SAE 20 non detergent, or even mineral oil in a pinch. But
>> oils for other pneumatic tools, motor oils, 3-in1, etc., have too much
>> acidity and incorrect viscosity to work over the long haul. (Sure
>> learned that one the hard way!)
>>
>> Ever try red tranny fluid?
>>
>>
>
> Or Peppermint Oil?
I'd been meaning to ask. Aside from the baby ass scent in baby oil, is it OK
to use around the shop as a substitute for mineral oil? Also, I had noticed
its ability to strip grimed surface dirt off finished furniture. Is this
harmful to the finish? (Store bought item; finish unknown, but presumed to
be polyurethane.)
On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
>and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
>looking forward to that task!
One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618
On Jan 7, 5:12=A0pm, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> And uh Nailshooter is the guy to listen to concerning these particular ty=
pe
> tools. =A0Robert the Bostich framer that I bought per your recommendation=
is
> doing great and is building more fences than I actually like to do. =A0No=
w if
> only there was a post hole digger that could see cables and pipes before =
you
> begin to dig.
Glad that bad boy is still getting it done for you, Leon. Think how
many nails you put in a fence shooting on pickets...
Pretty good testimony for Bostitch.
Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
looking forward to that task!
Robert
Nova wrote:
> Puckdropper wrote:
>> Nova <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>
>>>The "call before you dig" laws vary by state. In NY there is no > 16"
>>>stipulation. The only exception to the law is farming.
>>>
>>>There are some places where the transcontinental fiber optic cable
>>>that I'm responsible for is at a depth of only 4" deep to cross over
>>>other utilities.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Four inches?! I can understand not wanting to mess with the other
>> utilities, but we've had vehicles make that deep of impression trying to
>> cross our wet yard.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> Likewise a Vermeer pavement saw can make a mess of a fiber optic cable.
>
>
http://www.vermeer.com/vcom/TrenchingEquipment/Model.jsp?PrdlnID=3618&ModID=53362
>
> FYI, When the cable was first installed over twenty years ago the depth
> was about 4'. Over the years the areas were regraded causing the
> problem. When we know about regrading (we're not always notified) we do
> encase the cable in split steel conduit, but something like a pavement
> saw above cuts through steel conduit like butter.
>
Use to have a couple of them Saws. We called them the Wheel of Fortune. Mine
where Ditch Witch's R-100's 60 feet a minute thru asphalt, 24-30" deep 5"
wide. Boy what damage they did to shallow gas, phone, cable, and water
lines. Cut thousands of miles of trench between 1975-2000 then retired.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586
Website Address http://rentmyhusband.co.nr/
In article <[email protected]>, simplfy markem, (sixoneeight)@hotmail wrote:
>On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
>>and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
>>looking forward to that task!
>
>One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
>last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in *dry*
clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the soil.
You're better off digging by hand.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> We may not be talking about the same thing. I have experience with
these:
<http://www.mytoolstore.com/astro/astmat09.html>
and their variants.
Close enuf for horse shoes, atom bombs, and inline oilers.
> Besides not working well, they were fragile when mounted directly
behind the larger guns and broke often.
I suspected as much.
Your experience matches mine.
> It may work well in a shop environment, but again, not in the field.
Only if you baby it.
>Are you thinking
of another one?
No, see above.
>If you know of a spiffy little oiler that is really
<<small>> behind the guns (metal cased) I would love to check it out.
So would I.
>I have found it easier to make sure I am the only one that uses my
oiless guns, and to keep several refillable bottles of gun oil around
in the truck and in the gun cases.
Just curious, what do you use for gun oil?
Lew
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> "Markem" wrote:
>>
>>> One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
>>> last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
>>
>> Make mine the two (2) man version along with two (2) guys from the day
>> labor pool located on the corner.
>>
>> Lew
>
> Agreed, or as Jack suggested just rent a backhoe auger. A buddy of mine
> and I recently drilled eight 24" holes into the dry Austin Texas clay and
> limestone with a two-man 12" auger. Oh. My. GAWD. I may just be a wimp,
> but that was the most physically demanding thing I've ever done.
Yup the 2 man augers are just as much work.
Ed Edelenbos wrote:
> So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at
> Harbor Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the
> next? I can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the
> brad/staple guns an exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer
> will be a new thing for me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode
> cordless framing and finish nailers before.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Ed
Ed;
I have several brad nailers/staplers. Some I got with air compressors,
some I purchased. They all seem to perform equally well. However, I
would not use them in an industrial environment. They are on the light side.
Even though you don't anticipate using staples I recommend you getting a
combo nailer/stapler. The difference between with and without staples is
insignificant.
Dave
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 23:23:10 -0500, "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>So... is there a specific model of brad nailer that is preferred at Harbor
>Freight? Or are all the 5/8"-2" capable nailers as good as the next? I
>can't (for now) see needing a stapler but are any of the brad/staple guns an
>exceptional value? Keep in mind that an air nailer will be a new thing for
>me. I've used framing nailers and Paslode cordless framing and finish
>nailers before.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Ed
None, why buy frustration? Avoid "Made in China." I don't have
any Paslode tools, but I've heard they are quite good (are these made
in the USA?).
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
> Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in
> *dry*
> clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the
> soil.
> You're better off digging by hand.
Exactly, we have clay, gumbo in Houston and the gas powered tend to get
stuck if you are not very careful.
On Thu, 08 Jan 2009 14:25:10 GMT, [email protected] (Doug Miller)
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>, simplfy markem, (sixoneeight)@hotmail wrote:
>>On Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:19:56 -0800 (PST), "[email protected]"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Post hole diggers.... ouch. I am going to repair my own fence soon,
>>>and the "widow makers" haven't seen the light of day in a while. Not
>>>looking forward to that task!
>>
>>One man gas powered auger. Then the post hole digger cleans out the
>>last bit of dirt. Well with a trip to the rental place.
>
>How well those work depend _a lot_ on the type of soil. Here in central
>Indiana, our soil is mostly clay. Those powered augers work just fine in *dry*
>clay -- but in *wet* clay, all they do is screw the auger down into the soil.
>You're better off digging by hand.
Was not my experience YMMV.
Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> I did check with the local utilities. In fact the local water and sewer
>> will only locate up to the meter. From the meter to the house you are on
>> your own. Additionally unless going over 16" deep there is no
>> requirement to request a location. I cut a cable line 6 weeks ago at
>> 12". I paid them to repair the section however they attempted to charge
>> me for a complete 100' replacement. It appears that they were lucky that
>> I reported the cut and paid for the repair at all as I really did not
>> have to call at all and they showed up past the required wait period to
>> mark their line.
>
>
> Don't know about your area, but here in SoCal, the utilities have a
> collective 800#, listed as "Call before digging", in the local phone book,
> for underground utilities.
>
> I let my principles make the phone calls, so I'm not up to snuff on the
> details.
We have the same service in the Houston area however they do not mark water
or sewer. Our phone number to call is 811. Unfortunately Houston has
about 15 smaller cities that are adjacent that all handle things
differently. Where the city is concerned, they don't care if you break the
water line after the meter. Eis not thair yob to do mor than cover their
fundios.
Technically you have to wait 48 hours for the markings to be made before
digging and they are suppose to call you if they do not intend to come out
to mark. The local cable company did neither with in 48 hours, I called on
Tuesday morning at 6:00 a.m., they showed up Thursday afternoon. Too Late.