I have built a couple laminate counter tops, a desk top for a home office
and a top for a center island over the last 6 months and on each one I have
problems when using a PC laminate router with a flush bearing bit while
trimming the top after doing the edges. I get the router bit into the edge
banding of the project and cut into the laminate. Makes for a poor looking
job with the laminate surface scarred on the edge in places. Is there a
technique for keeping the trimmer from tilting slightly when routing the
top? The height adjustment on the PC trimmer leaves much to be desired and
there is no micro adjustment for the depth of the base. Has anyone tried the
Bosh or Dewalt laminate trimmer kits versus the Porter Cable? The one I am
using is an older model, (do not have the number at the moment.)
Thanks for any information or guide lines
CC
"BillyBob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "C C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>Has anyone tried the
>> Bosh or Dewalt laminate trimmer kits versus the Porter Cable? The one I
>> am
>> using is an older model, (do not have the number at the moment.)
>> Thanks for any information or guide lines
>
> I am using a Dewalt trimmer with superb results when trimming 5/16" oak
> banding applied to 3/4" plywood. It comes off flush and smooth with no
> nicks the micro-thin veneer on the plywood.
>
I will be looking to buy one soon and what I have read on the Dewalt has
been appealing. Also the Bosh installers kit seems to have a lot going for
it. It is probably my control technique,, or lack of it, but the learning
curve is taking a toll too.
> Now don't go rushing out to by a dewalt trimmer. Its good but I doubt
> there
> is a nickel's worth of difference between it and the PC in terms of
> capability. There are two factors that allow me to get the results. First
> of all I am using a very good bit made by Amana. I am sure there are many
> equals out there. I've used a number of name brand bits but the Amana
> bits
> always feel like top of the heap to me. The bearing and cutting edges are
> lined up perfectly. I don't need to play games with masking tape.
> Besides,
> if you use masking tape, you end up with molding trimmed that is not quite
> flush with the surface of the plywood.
>
> I also made a guide which could be clamped to the plywood and provide a
> much
> broader surface for the trimmer to rest on while trimming. Such a guide
> can
> be thrown together from wood scraps using a brad nailer. It makes all the
> difference in the world in stabilizing the trimmer.
The Bosh has a roller guide that seems like it would stabilize the cutter
flush to the edge and top when used, but it may be problematic when going
around outside corners. Probably no different when cutting the top on inside
corners. I will have to do more research before buying one for myself.
Do you have a photo of the guide you made that could be posted to ABPW?
thanks
>
> Lastly, I think there is a bit of learned technique in handling the
> trimmer,
> just like you learn to use a hand plane. The need for precise technique
> goes way down when you add the aforementioned guide.
>
> Bob
>
Thanks for the information Bob,
CC
"C C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Do you have a photo of the guide you made that could be posted to ABPW?
> thanks
I just posted a couple of pictures.
Bob
Houston, Texas
I have had some bad experiences in the past with ball bearing
cutters. I tend to use the solid carbide, ball-ended type with a
quick smear of petroleum jelly down the frontice piece. I use a
regular router on which I find the base to be adequate. I only
use the trim router at ends, walls, and tight spots. As Pat says,
create a wider base.
A good sharp file still feels good on laminate, but there are a
few tools worth owning. Look for the Mica-knife about half way
down this page:
http://www.tapeease.com/LamTls.htm You might also look at the
Virutex slitter, laminate shears, and the other tools.
(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
[email protected]
"C C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have built a couple laminate counter tops, a desk top for a
>home office and a top for a center island over the last 6 months
>and on each one I have problems when using a PC laminate router
>with a flush bearing bit while trimming the top after doing the
>edges. I get the router bit into the edge banding of the project
>and cut into the laminate. Makes for a poor looking job with the
>laminate surface scarred on the edge in places. Is there a
>technique for keeping the trimmer from tilting slightly when
>routing the top? The height adjustment on the PC trimmer leaves
>much to be desired and there is no micro adjustment for the depth
>of the base. Has anyone tried the Bosh or Dewalt laminate trimmer
>kits versus the Porter Cable? The one I am using is an older
>model, (do not have the number at the moment.)
> Thanks for any information or guide lines
> CC
>
"C C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>Has anyone tried the
> Bosh or Dewalt laminate trimmer kits versus the Porter Cable? The one I am
> using is an older model, (do not have the number at the moment.)
> Thanks for any information or guide lines
I am using a Dewalt trimmer with superb results when trimming 5/16" oak
banding applied to 3/4" plywood. It comes off flush and smooth with no
nicks the micro-thin veneer on the plywood.
Now don't go rushing out to by a dewalt trimmer. Its good but I doubt there
is a nickel's worth of difference between it and the PC in terms of
capability. There are two factors that allow me to get the results. First
of all I am using a very good bit made by Amana. I am sure there are many
equals out there. I've used a number of name brand bits but the Amana bits
always feel like top of the heap to me. The bearing and cutting edges are
lined up perfectly. I don't need to play games with masking tape. Besides,
if you use masking tape, you end up with molding trimmed that is not quite
flush with the surface of the plywood.
I also made a guide which could be clamped to the plywood and provide a much
broader surface for the trimmer to rest on while trimming. Such a guide can
be thrown together from wood scraps using a brad nailer. It makes all the
difference in the world in stabilizing the trimmer.
Lastly, I think there is a bit of learned technique in handling the trimmer,
just like you learn to use a hand plane. The need for precise technique
goes way down when you add the aforementioned guide.
Bob
Thanks Pat,
I am having problems with web pages not being displayed and am trying to get
that worked out with my provider. Soon as I get that fixed I will be able
to go to the link and read the information there
CC
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a way to keep the routing from tiliting into the edge?
> There is.
> See the http://www.patwarner.com/pc310_special.html link.
>
In article
<[email protected]>,
"C C" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have built a couple laminate counter tops, a desk top for a home office
> and a top for a center island over the last 6 months and on each one I have
> problems when using a PC laminate router with a flush bearing bit while
> trimming the top after doing the edges. I get the router bit into the edge
> banding of the project and cut into the laminate. Makes for a poor looking
> job with the laminate surface scarred on the edge in places. Is there a
> technique for keeping the trimmer from tilting slightly when routing the
> top? The height adjustment on the PC trimmer leaves much to be desired and
> there is no micro adjustment for the depth of the base. Has anyone tried the
> Bosh or Dewalt laminate trimmer kits versus the Porter Cable? The one I am
> using is an older model, (do not have the number at the moment.)
> Thanks for any information or guide lines
> CC
I just bought a Ridgid 6 amp laminate trimmer. R2400.
Sweet! Comes with some nice guides. Variable speed, soft start motor.
Well thought out and very smooth. Good hand-held size. And cheap.
Just over a hundred smackeroonies up here in Kanuckistan. Probably 75
U$Buckeroonies.
I had been looking for an additional trimmer, with a round-over bit in
it. Small enough for my toolbox..
In article
<[email protected]>,
"C C" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have built a couple laminate counter tops, a desk top for a home office
> and a top for a center island over the last 6 months and on each one I have
> problems when using a PC laminate router with a flush bearing bit while
> trimming the top after doing the edges. I get the router bit into the edge
> banding of the project and cut into the laminate. Makes for a poor looking
> job with the laminate surface scarred on the edge in places. Is there a
> technique for keeping the trimmer from tilting slightly when routing the
> top? The height adjustment on the PC trimmer leaves much to be desired and
> there is no micro adjustment for the depth of the base. Has anyone tried the
> Bosh or Dewalt laminate trimmer kits versus the Porter Cable? The one I am
> using is an older model, (do not have the number at the moment.)
> Thanks for any information or guide lines
> CC
>
>
A single layer of masking tape, for the bearing to ride on, will keep
the cutting edged away from the laminate. Then use a file to finish the
edge.
In article
<[email protected]>,
"C C" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > A single layer of masking tape, for the bearing to ride on, will keep
> > the cutting edged away from the laminate. Then use a file to finish the
> > edge.
>
> I will try that next time, though it will probably take more work with the
> glue-lam file. But I go over all the trimmed edges with one to take off the
> sharpness and make sure it is all trimmed flush.
> CC
Just make sure the file is a 'mill' for laminate..sharp and new. The
stuff just flies off...so you have to take care.
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article
> <[email protected]>,
> "C C" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have built a couple laminate counter tops, a desk top for a home office
>> and a top for a center island over the last 6 months and on each one I
>> have
>> problems when using a PC laminate router with a flush bearing bit while
>> trimming the top after doing the edges. I get the router bit into the
>> edge
>> banding of the project and cut into the laminate. Makes for a poor
>> looking
>> job with the laminate surface scarred on the edge in places. Is there a
>> technique for keeping the trimmer from tilting slightly when routing the
>> top? The height adjustment on the PC trimmer leaves much to be desired
>> and
>> there is no micro adjustment for the depth of the base. Has anyone tried
>> the
>> Bosh or Dewalt laminate trimmer kits versus the Porter Cable? The one I
>> am
>> using is an older model, (do not have the number at the moment.)
>> Thanks for any information or guide lines
>> CC
>>
>>
>
> A single layer of masking tape, for the bearing to ride on, will keep
> the cutting edged away from the laminate. Then use a file to finish the
> edge.
I will try that next time, though it will probably take more work with the
glue-lam file. But I go over all the trimmed edges with one to take off the
sharpness and make sure it is all trimmed flush.
CC
"C C" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:nCm5e.537749
> job with the laminate surface scarred on the edge in places. Is there a
> technique for keeping the trimmer from tilting slightly when routing the
> top? The height adjustment on the PC trimmer leaves much to be desired and
> there is no micro adjustment for the depth of the base.
No experience with a laminate trimmer, but I have used a full size 1 hp
trimmer that is even more likely to tilt slightly when routing the edge of a
laminate. What I've done is apply a layer of gel lubricate to the edge that
the bearing rides on and press firmly but squarely on the router to keep it
at 90° to the outer edge. If the router is cutting too close and shaving off
a layer of laminate, then depending on how close it cuts, I would use some
masking tape on the outer edge and then finish the edge off with a fine file
or sand paper around a square block of wood held on an angle.