Complete newbie to woodworking here.
I've edge joined two small (150x300mm) pieces of Oak and the join is
solid. However I couldn't get them exactly square so they look like
(looking down the board):
+--------+
| +--------+
| | |
+--------+ |
+--------+
Given that I have a power planer and a half sheet orbital sander, what is
the recommended way of making these flat (it's not as bad as in the ASCII
art, but it is a 2 mm lip).
My options as I see it are:
1)Start again and try to get it perfectly level - not really an option
because a)I'm on a tight budget (making a few of this item) and b)I don't
know if I'd get it any better if I tried again anyway.
2)Run the power planer on a 0 cutting depth in a direction from right to
left (as per the ASCII art above) to hopefully level the joint (it doesn't
matter too much to squareness/thickness, just needs to be smooth)
3)Sand the joint down, working it in big circles with a 60/80 grit, then a
100 grit then a 120 grit.
I'll need to sand it at a later stage anyway, but I don't know whether I'd
get a better finish doing it now or using a planer.
Cheers,
Andy
Can you live with the reduction in thickness that will result from planing
it smooth? If so, your choice is obvious.
If not, can you saw them apart and try again? You ought to be able to get
closer than 2mm. Although my experience is limited, I have always glued
before finish planing, so there is room for errors.
"Andy Jeffries" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I've edge joined two small (150x300mm) pieces of Oak and the join is
>solid. However I couldn't get them exactly square so they look like
>(looking down the board):
>
>+--------+
>| +--------+
>| | |
>+--------+ |
> +--------+
>
>Given that I have a power planer and a half sheet orbital sander, what is
>the recommended way of making these flat (it's not as bad as in the ASCII
>art, but it is a 2 mm lip).
You will preserve maximum thickness if you plane each high side down
flush with the other, parallel to the current surface, if the pieces
are square as drawn.
By power planer, do you mean a hand-held, or a stationary machine? If
the latter, I'd put your pieces on a carrier, with a shim under the
left side to hold the piece the level, then plane off 2mm from the
left board, and repeat on the other side.
>My options as I see it are:
>
>1)Start again and try to get it perfectly level - not really an option
>because a)I'm on a tight budget (making a few of this item) and b)I don't
>know if I'd get it any better if I tried again anyway.
>
>2)Run the power planer on a 0 cutting depth in a direction from right to
>left (as per the ASCII art above) to hopefully level the joint (it doesn't
>matter too much to squareness/thickness, just needs to be smooth)
>
>3)Sand the joint down, working it in big circles with a 60/80 grit, then a
>100 grit then a 120 grit.
>
>
>I'll need to sand it at a later stage anyway, but I don't know whether I'd
>get a better finish doing it now or using a planer.
>
>Cheers,
>
>
>Andy
--
Alex
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
if it were me, given the options, I would plane it down as close as possible
with the planer, then finish it off with sandpaper as you stated. If you use
sandpaper to take down a 2 mm rise the width and length of one of the
boards, you'll be there forever and a day.
"Andy Jeffries" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Complete newbie to woodworking here.
>
> I've edge joined two small (150x300mm) pieces of Oak and the join is
> solid. However I couldn't get them exactly square so they look like
> (looking down the board):
>
> +--------+
> | +--------+
> | | |
> +--------+ |
> +--------+
>
> Given that I have a power planer and a half sheet orbital sander, what is
> the recommended way of making these flat (it's not as bad as in the ASCII
> art, but it is a 2 mm lip).
>
> My options as I see it are:
>
> 1)Start again and try to get it perfectly level - not really an option
> because a)I'm on a tight budget (making a few of this item) and b)I don't
> know if I'd get it any better if I tried again anyway.
>
> 2)Run the power planer on a 0 cutting depth in a direction from right to
> left (as per the ASCII art above) to hopefully level the joint (it doesn't
> matter too much to squareness/thickness, just needs to be smooth)
>
> 3)Sand the joint down, working it in big circles with a 60/80 grit, then a
> 100 grit then a 120 grit.
>
>
> I'll need to sand it at a later stage anyway, but I don't know whether I'd
> get a better finish doing it now or using a planer.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Andy
On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 15:18:37 +0000, js wrote:
> if it were me, given the options, I would plane it down as close as possible
> with the planer, then finish it off with sandpaper as you stated. If you use
> sandpaper to take down a 2 mm rise the width and length of one of the
> boards, you'll be there forever and a day.
Given that I only have a power planer, am I right to put it on a 0 cutting
depth and go accross the lip?
Cheers,
Andy
going across the lip is going to be going cross grain, so I wouldnt be
trying that. Set it for the lowest setting that will take a cut, and go the
length and width of the prominate board, till your close to level. Then
finish it with sanding.
"Andy Jeffries" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 15:18:37 +0000, js wrote:
> > if it were me, given the options, I would plane it down as close as
possible
> > with the planer, then finish it off with sandpaper as you stated. If you
use
> > sandpaper to take down a 2 mm rise the width and length of one of the
> > boards, you'll be there forever and a day.
>
> Given that I only have a power planer, am I right to put it on a 0 cutting
> depth and go accross the lip?
>
> Cheers,
>
>
> Andy