In article <[email protected]>, Dennis
<[email protected]> wrote:
> I just saw an article in Wood magazine where the author used denatured
> alcohol to "thin" water based poly claiming it allows bubbles to disperse
> etc.
>
> Has anyone tried this technique yet? If so, did you brush or spray?
I haven't heard of the denatured alcohol method, but I read in one of
the woodworking rags where "half & half" coffee creamer worked well to
disperse bubble. That one I did try and was very pleased with the
results.
The formula was up to 1 ounce of "half & half" to a quart of water
based poly. I use a foam brush to apply. It worked for me, but YMMV.
Joe
On Mar 17, 7:50=A0am, "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I just saw an article in Wood magazine where the author used denatured
> alcohol to "thin" water based poly claiming it allows bubbles to disperse
> etc.
>
> Has anyone tried this technique yet? If so, did you brush or spray?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworkerwww.woodworkinghobby.com
Alcohol will turn some water based products into threads. Long thin
threads.. like poly-ester.
If there is any acidic content, the alcohol will cause you lots of
problems. You run the risk of esterification.
I would do a lot of testing and if the mixture doesn't curdle, re-
visit your test over the course of a couple of years.
Dennis wrote:
> I just saw an article in Wood magazine where the author used denatured
> alcohol to "thin" water based poly claiming it allows bubbles to disperse
> etc.
What scares me about that article is that the differences from brand to
brand in WB chemistry are not mentioned. I'd do serious testing with a
specific brand before applying it to something I cared about. Most WB
products have complex chemistry that doesn't take well to freelancing.
On the other hand, I have mixed 30% latex paint with ML Campbell
Ultrastar, to create a pigmented lacquer, which I then sprayed with
excellent results.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Mar 17, 7:12 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Assuming you applied with your HVLP, did you thin before application?
> If so, do you remember roughly how much and with what?
>
> Do you remember which aircap you used?
~30% Pratt & Lambert paint to ~70% Ultrastar.
I actually sprayed the test panels with a Critter, so I'm sure a #3 0r
#4 setup would work fine with a pressurized suction gun.
I tried it on a whim after a friend read about someone doing it with
either Hood or Target WB lacquer.
On Mar 17, 7:12 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> What scares me about that article is that the differences from brand to
> brand in WB chemistry are not mentioned.
I have always thought magazine finishers are pretty dangerous. Great
for some things, horrible for others.
> On the other hand, I have mixed 30% latex paint with ML Campbell
> Ultrastar, to create a pigmented lacquer, which I then sprayed with
> excellent results.
Assuming you applied with your HVLP, did you thin before application?
If so, do you remember roughly how much and with what?
Do you remember which aircap you used?
Robert
Dennis wrote:
> I just saw an article in Wood magazine where the author used
> denatured alcohol to "thin" water based poly claiming it allows
> bubbles to disperse etc.
I just pop the bubbles with a torch. Water poly or epoxy. Not sure I
would with oil poly, definitely wouldn't with lacquer :)
--
dadiOH
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