Got a Ridgid 13" planer last year, haven't used it much but, dang, it sure
is noisy. Today I was planing some 1x10x30 pine boards, trying to get them
kinda flat so as to make some simple trivets for campouts. Planed the
boards with the cup side facing down. Taking off a very little.
But, watching the dust going into the DC, I'm really not cutting much and by
lowering the cutting head more it seems like all I'm doing is making more
noise, hardly any more sawdust. So much noise I don't want to do this
outdoors for the possiblility of annoying all my closest neighbors.
I've watched some utube videos, and it looks like I'm doing everything
right, but I feel I'm doing something wrong. Surely my blades aren't this
hopelessly dull by now?
I did clean my blades to remove some built-up residue from previous planing.
I'm contenplating taking my planer down to the Ridgid shop for a look-over,
after all, it's free, but I don't want to look entirely stupid.
It seems to me that the blades might be bouncing the board because of the
cupping. The worst board, cupping-wise, has about 1/8 inch in the middle of
the 10" width.
Ralph
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 3/10/12 7:34 PM, dpb wrote:
> The planer won't do any good on cupping anyway; the feed roller will
> simply press the board flat, run it under the cutterhead and out it will
> come recupped when the pressure is removed.
>
I remove cupping all the time with my planer. I don't think it's
possible for mine to do what you describe. It would have to be set too
low and I wouldn't be able to get the boards started.
===================================================================
Yep.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Ralph Compton" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
>
> I took a piece of rough sawn lumber, probably pine, dunno, about
> 1x12x24 and ran it through. Didn't look to me like very much came
> off. Gave that up for now.
Take a pencil or even a piece of chalk and scribble across the face of the
board. Plane and then look at the results. That will tell you exactly
where material was removed.
*snip*
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> I don't want to get off on a tangent. I was dealing with the specific
> facts presented.
> It was purported that the planer "won't do any good on cupping" which
> isn't true.
>
> I was providing information to contradict the specific claim,
> "the feed roller will simply press the [cupped] board flat, run it
> under the cutterhead and out it will come recupped when the pressure
> is removed."
>
My planer manual suggested the use of a shim (and maybe a sled... it's
been a few seasons) to keep the board from deforming too badly under the
wheels.
It depends on the board, I had one a couple months ago that would flatten
out quite easily, so it would plane smooth but not flat. Most of the
others, however, will retain their shape provided I take extremely light
passes.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
To those who offered help and advice, thanks. I got the problem solved.
Simple, really. I rotated the blades.
Duh.
I was surprised they got so dull so fast but, then, they're just steel and I
suppose I have put more stock through the planer than I thought.
Suspect I need to have a couple sets of blades on hand. Changing the blades
around was really pretty simple. I had been dreading it but it isn't
difficult at all.
Anyway, the new edges cut like champs and I made about 2/3 bag of
shavings/chips for my DC with it.
Ralph (who still has lots to learn!)
"Ralph Compton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'll try that tomorrow too. Thanks
>
> Ralph
>
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> "Ralph Compton" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>> *snip*
>>
>>>
>>> I took a piece of rough sawn lumber, probably pine, dunno, about
>>> 1x12x24 and ran it through. Didn't look to me like very much came
>>> off. Gave that up for now.
>>
>> Take a pencil or even a piece of chalk and scribble across the face of
>> the
>> board. Plane and then look at the results. That will tell you exactly
>> where material was removed.
>>
>> *snip*
>>
>> Puckdropper
>> --
>> Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
>
In answer to come questions and comments:
I have never taken the blades off the machine. They are as they came from
the factory. Bought this machine new from HD in Dec, 2010. Hasn't had much
use. Did several pieces of dog-eared cedar last fall, new wood, 1x6's,
planed them down smooth. I've probably had a couple of hours (maybe 3) use
on the machine since new. Feeding it single-handed is slower than with an
extra person so that time represents about half the time cutting, half
waiting for a new board.
I took a piece of rough sawn lumber, probably pine, dunno, about 1x12x24 and
ran it through. Didn't look to me like very much came off. Gave that up
for now.
I did inspect all the blades but didn't remove or adjust. Didn't touch the
mounting bolts at all. I cleaned some residue off the cutting edges, didn't
make much difference. I'll mess with it a little more before taking it down
to the shop. BTW, the Factory Repair Shop is about 2 miles from my house so
it's not much of a burden. Just a nuisance.
Since this is my first planer, I didn't really know what to expect re life
span of blades, etc. But it does seem to me that doing clean soft woods
should allow me rather more life out of the blades than this. Thanks for
the suggestions. I look more into it on Monday.
Ralph
"Ralph Compton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Got a Ridgid 13" planer last year, haven't used it much but, dang, it sure
> is noisy. Today I was planing some 1x10x30 pine boards, trying to get
> them kinda flat so as to make some simple trivets for campouts. Planed
> the boards with the cup side facing down. Taking off a very little.
>
> But, watching the dust going into the DC, I'm really not cutting much and
> by lowering the cutting head more it seems like all I'm doing is making
> more noise, hardly any more sawdust. So much noise I don't want to do
> this outdoors for the possiblility of annoying all my closest neighbors.
>
> I've watched some utube videos, and it looks like I'm doing everything
> right, but I feel I'm doing something wrong. Surely my blades aren't
> this hopelessly dull by now?
>
> I did clean my blades to remove some built-up residue from previous
> planing.
>
> I'm contenplating taking my planer down to the Ridgid shop for a
> look-over, after all, it's free, but I don't want to look entirely stupid.
>
> It seems to me that the blades might be bouncing the board because of the
> cupping. The worst board, cupping-wise, has about 1/8 inch in the middle
> of the 10" width.
>
> Ralph
I'll try that tomorrow too. Thanks
Ralph
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Ralph Compton" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>>
>> I took a piece of rough sawn lumber, probably pine, dunno, about
>> 1x12x24 and ran it through. Didn't look to me like very much came
>> off. Gave that up for now.
>
> Take a pencil or even a piece of chalk and scribble across the face of the
> board. Plane and then look at the results. That will tell you exactly
> where material was removed.
>
> *snip*
>
> Puckdropper
> --
> Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> Wait a while. There will be several people on here explaining to you that
> that is impossible. It's all in your mind. The boards that you have
> straitened over the years didn't really exist. It was all a dream. BTW, I
> have had the same dream, using the same planer, numerous times.
This is the world of illusion.
"-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
On 3/11/12 1:24 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 3/10/2012 8:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/10/12 7:34 PM, dpb wrote:
>>> The planer won't do any good on cupping anyway; the feed roller
>>> will simply press the board flat, run it under the cutterhead and
>>> out it will come recupped when the pressure is removed.
>>>
>>
>> I remove cupping all the time with my planer. I don't think it's
>> possible for mine to do what you describe. It would have to be set
>> too low and I wouldn't be able to get the boards started.
>
> That must be an interesting planer design that somehow manages to
> exert a forward thrust on the material sufficient to push it through
> the planer and take a cut while not bearing down on the material the
> same time.
>
> Or, it's some other kind of wood than that which I can procure
> locally that has an infinite moment of stiffness so it isn't affected
> by that (nonexistant, of course) downward pressure.
>
> How much, specifically depends on the thickness of the material and
> what it is; nominal 1" white pine just ain't that strong; you can
> flex it easily by hand. Run a piece of 3" roughsawn oak thru and
> yeah, the deflection will be minimal.
>
> --
There's barely any downward pressure and I assume that's the case with
most modern planers. I have a Delta 22-560 and the rollers are about
1/16" proud of the blades. It has a maximum cutting depth 3/32" The
cast metal casing of the planer sits very close to the the level of the
rollers. If I try to feed a board that is bowed enough that it would be
pushed down by the rollers enough to "spring back," the casing would
block the board from even entering the cutting area.
Here's another thing I've observed with most planers. There is very
little room in the cutting depth adjustment between "the rollers
grabbing and pulling the wood" and "the rollers slipping and not
grabbing the wood at all." This tells me that the rubber on the rollers
is doing the work of pulling, via simple friction, and not some
extraordinary amount of downward pressure.
==========================================================================================
Wait a while. There will be several people on here explaining to you that
that is impossible. It's all in your mind. The boards that you have
straitened over the years didn't really exist. It was all a dream. BTW, I
have had the same dream, using the same planer, numerous times.
"Ralph Compton" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Got a Ridgid 13" planer last year, haven't used it much but, dang, it sure
> is noisy. Today I was planing some 1x10x30 pine boards, trying to get them
> kinda flat so as to make some simple trivets for campouts. Planed the
> boards with the cup side facing down. Taking off a very little.
>
> But, watching the dust going into the DC, I'm really not cutting much and by
> lowering the cutting head more it seems like all I'm doing is making more
> noise, hardly any more sawdust. So much noise I don't want to do this
> outdoors for the possiblility of annoying all my closest neighbors.
>
> I've watched some utube videos, and it looks like I'm doing everything
> right, but I feel I'm doing something wrong. Surely my blades aren't this
> hopelessly dull by now?
Is there any possibility at all, that the blades are installed backwards?
> I did clean my blades to remove some built-up residue from previous planing.
Ahh. Yes, there is. Double-check to make sure you reinstalled them facing in the right
direction.
> I'm contenplating taking my planer down to the Ridgid shop for a look-over,
> after all, it's free, but I don't want to look entirely stupid.
Then check the orientation of the blades first. ALL of them.
>
> It seems to me that the blades might be bouncing the board because of the
> cupping. The worst board, cupping-wise, has about 1/8 inch in the middle of
> the 10" width.
Not likely on pine. I think you'll discover at least one blade installed backwards.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
[...]
> That is pretty much the SMO for flattening boards with a twist, crook,
> kink or bow. because in all these cases the planer will simply follow
> the warp of the board.
> However, cupping can be brought straight to the planer because, by
> definition, the board is straight on the other two axes.
If cupping is the only flaw, and the board is otherwise straight with no twist or bow, then I'd
agree with you -- but IME cupping is usually accompanied by some degree of twist or bow as
well.
On 3/10/2012 6:55 PM, Ralph Compton wrote:
...
> It seems to me that the blades might be bouncing the board because of
> the cupping. The worst board, cupping-wise, has about 1/8 inch in the
> middle of the 10" width.
The planer won't do any good on cupping anyway; the feed roller will
simply press the board flat, run it under the cutterhead and out it will
come recupped when the pressure is removed.
If you're trying to remove cupping, you need to surface a single face
first before the planer. Jointer or handplane is the way to accomplish
that.
As for the noise and apparent lack of sizable cuttings, make sure the
knives are indeed installed correctly (both orientation and depth)
--
On 3/10/12 7:34 PM, dpb wrote:
> The planer won't do any good on cupping anyway; the feed roller will
> simply press the board flat, run it under the cutterhead and out it will
> come recupped when the pressure is removed.
>
I remove cupping all the time with my planer. I don't think it's
possible for mine to do what you describe. It would have to be set too
low and I wouldn't be able to get the boards started.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/10/2012 8:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/10/12 7:34 PM, dpb wrote:
>> The planer won't do any good on cupping anyway; the feed roller will
>> simply press the board flat, run it under the cutterhead and out it will
>> come recupped when the pressure is removed.
>>
>
> I remove cupping all the time with my planer. I don't think it's
> possible for mine to do what you describe. It would have to be set too
> low and I wouldn't be able to get the boards started.
That must be an interesting planer design that somehow manages to exert
a forward thrust on the material sufficient to push it through the
planer and take a cut while not bearing down on the material the same time.
Or, it's some other kind of wood than that which I can procure locally
that has an infinite moment of stiffness so it isn't affected by that
(nonexistant, of course) downward pressure.
How much, specifically depends on the thickness of the material and what
it is; nominal 1" white pine just ain't that strong; you can flex it
easily by hand. Run a piece of 3" roughsawn oak thru and yeah, the
deflection will be minimal.
--
On 3/11/12 1:24 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 3/10/2012 8:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/10/12 7:34 PM, dpb wrote:
>>> The planer won't do any good on cupping anyway; the feed roller
>>> will simply press the board flat, run it under the cutterhead and
>>> out it will come recupped when the pressure is removed.
>>>
>>
>> I remove cupping all the time with my planer. I don't think it's
>> possible for mine to do what you describe. It would have to be set
>> too low and I wouldn't be able to get the boards started.
>
> That must be an interesting planer design that somehow manages to
> exert a forward thrust on the material sufficient to push it through
> the planer and take a cut while not bearing down on the material the
> same time.
>
> Or, it's some other kind of wood than that which I can procure
> locally that has an infinite moment of stiffness so it isn't affected
> by that (nonexistant, of course) downward pressure.
>
> How much, specifically depends on the thickness of the material and
> what it is; nominal 1" white pine just ain't that strong; you can
> flex it easily by hand. Run a piece of 3" roughsawn oak thru and
> yeah, the deflection will be minimal.
>
> --
There's barely any downward pressure and I assume that's the case with
most modern planers. I have a Delta 22-560 and the rollers are about
1/16" proud of the blades. It has a maximum cutting depth 3/32" The
cast metal casing of the planer sits very close to the the level of the
rollers. If I try to feed a board that is bowed enough that it would be
pushed down by the rollers enough to "spring back," the casing would
block the board from even entering the cutting area.
Here's another thing I've observed with most planers. There is very
little room in the cutting depth adjustment between "the rollers
grabbing and pulling the wood" and "the rollers slipping and not
grabbing the wood at all." This tells me that the rubber on the rollers
is doing the work of pulling, via simple friction, and not some
extraordinary amount of downward pressure.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/11/2012 3:51 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...
> most modern planers. I have a Delta 22-560 and the rollers are about
> 1/16" proud of the blades. It has a maximum cutting depth 3/32"...
Interestingly, from the owners manual for the above machine I find...
> 1. True Up One Face Feed one face of the board over a jointer,
> making thin cuts with each pass, until the entire surface is flat.
> 2. Plane to Thickness Place the side you just surfaced in STEP 1
> face down and feed the board through the planer, plane until this
> side is flat. Then plane both sides of the board until you are
> satisfied with the thickness, making thin cuts, alternating sides
> with each pass. If during the planing operation you notice the board
> twisting, warping or bowing, repeat STEP 1 and true up one face.
...
The manufacturer recommends the same sequence of operations.
--
On 3/12/12 4:34 AM, CW wrote:
>
>
> "-MIKE-" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> On 3/11/12 1:24 PM, dpb wrote:
>> On 3/10/2012 8:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 3/10/12 7:34 PM, dpb wrote:
>>>> The planer won't do any good on cupping anyway; the feed roller
>>>> will simply press the board flat, run it under the cutterhead and
>>>> out it will come recupped when the pressure is removed.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I remove cupping all the time with my planer. I don't think it's
>>> possible for mine to do what you describe. It would have to be set
>>> too low and I wouldn't be able to get the boards started.
>>
>> That must be an interesting planer design that somehow manages to
>> exert a forward thrust on the material sufficient to push it through
>> the planer and take a cut while not bearing down on the material the
>> same time.
>>
>> Or, it's some other kind of wood than that which I can procure
>> locally that has an infinite moment of stiffness so it isn't affected
>> by that (nonexistant, of course) downward pressure.
>>
>> How much, specifically depends on the thickness of the material and
>> what it is; nominal 1" white pine just ain't that strong; you can
>> flex it easily by hand. Run a piece of 3" roughsawn oak thru and
>> yeah, the deflection will be minimal.
>>
>> --
>
> There's barely any downward pressure and I assume that's the case with
> most modern planers. I have a Delta 22-560 and the rollers are about
> 1/16" proud of the blades. It has a maximum cutting depth 3/32" The
> cast metal casing of the planer sits very close to the the level of the
> rollers. If I try to feed a board that is bowed enough that it would be
> pushed down by the rollers enough to "spring back," the casing would
> block the board from even entering the cutting area.
>
> Here's another thing I've observed with most planers. There is very
> little room in the cutting depth adjustment between "the rollers
> grabbing and pulling the wood" and "the rollers slipping and not
> grabbing the wood at all." This tells me that the rubber on the rollers
> is doing the work of pulling, via simple friction, and not some
> extraordinary amount of downward pressure.
> ==========================================================================================
>
>
> Wait a while. There will be several people on here explaining to you
> that that is impossible. It's all in your mind. The boards that you have
> straitened over the years didn't really exist. It was all a dream. BTW,
> I have had the same dream, using the same planer, numerous times.
>
>
That was so helpful.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/12/12 9:52 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 3/11/2012 3:51 PM, -MIKE- wrote: ...
>
>> most modern planers. I have a Delta 22-560 and the rollers are
>> about 1/16" proud of the blades. It has a maximum cutting depth
>> 3/32"...
>
> Interestingly, from the owners manual for the above machine I
> find...
>
>> 1. True Up One Face Feed one face of the board over a jointer,
>> making thin cuts with each pass, until the entire surface is flat.
>> 2. Plane to Thickness Place the side you just surfaced in STEP 1
>> face down and feed the board through the planer, plane until this
>> side is flat. Then plane both sides of the board until you are
>> satisfied with the thickness, making thin cuts, alternating sides
>> with each pass. If during the planing operation you notice the
>> board twisting, warping or bowing, repeat STEP 1 and true up one
>> face.
>
> ...
>
> The manufacturer recommends the same sequence of operations.
>
That is pretty much the SMO for flattening boards with a twist, crook,
kink or bow. because in all these cases the planer will simply follow
the warp of the board.
However, cupping can be brought straight to the planer because, by
definition, the board is straight on the other two axes.
Keep in mind as well that a board may warp as you remove thickness from
it. Things like grain pattern and internal stresses can cause this.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/12/12 10:37 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
> -MIKE-<[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>
> [...]
>> That is pretty much the SMO for flattening boards with a twist, crook,
>> kink or bow. because in all these cases the planer will simply follow
>> the warp of the board.
>> However, cupping can be brought straight to the planer because, by
>> definition, the board is straight on the other two axes.
>
> If cupping is the only flaw, and the board is otherwise straight with no twist or bow, then I'd
> agree with you -- but IME cupping is usually accompanied by some degree of twist or bow as
> well.
I don't want to get off on a tangent. I was dealing with the specific
facts presented.
It was purported that the planer "won't do any good on cupping" which
isn't true.
I was providing information to contradict the specific claim,
"the feed roller will simply press the [cupped] board flat, run it under
the cutterhead and out it will come recupped when the pressure is
removed."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/12/2012 11:13 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
...
> It depends on the board, I had one a couple months ago that would flatten
> out quite easily, so it would plane smooth but not flat. Most of the
> others, however, will retain their shape provided I take extremely light
> passes.
+1
The principle is, in general, true (as I noted).
Regardless of what mikey says, there _IS_ downward force on the feed
roller (and to a lesser extent both the cutterhead and the outfeed
roller as well).
There will be _zero_ frictional feed force w/o it, regardless of how
sticky the feed roller cover is.
F_friction = F_normal * Coeff_Friction
is a physical principle.
<http://library.thinkquest.org/10796/ch4/ch4.htm> (Chap 6)
--
On 3/11/2012 3:51 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...
> There's barely any downward pressure and I assume that's the case with
> most modern planers. I have a Delta 22-560...
I kept the smaller when returned to farm...sometimes I've regretted not
having the Powermatic Model 225 but don't have 3-phase so it would have
required either swapping the motor no mean feat to find a single phase
or a phase converter so get by w/ the Rockwell/Delta Model 13.
That these little lunchbox guys don't have much guts isn't too
surprising; I've never tried using one...
Here's a couple links to nice pic's at the OWWM site...
<http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=13838>
<http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=2345>
The one guy says his came from an estate sale; the one I have came from
a furniture factory in PA that upgraded. They had 27 of these set up in
9 rows of three--ran them all day, every day preparing the stock to a
fixed set thickness--each machine was set at one precise thickness
setting and fed by one and unloaded and passed to the next in the line
by another.
Here's the (lamented, gone) PM...
<http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=7215>
--
On 3/12/12 11:49 AM, dpb wrote:
> Regardless of what mikey says,
Oh, we're being condescending now. Ok, jerkwad.
> there _IS_ downward force on the feed
> roller (and to a lesser extent both the cutterhead and the outfeed
> roller as well).
>
> There will be _zero_ frictional feed force w/o it, regardless of how
> sticky the feed roller cover is.
>
> F_friction = F_normal * Coeff_Friction
>
> is a physical principle.
>
> <http://library.thinkquest.org/10796/ch4/ch4.htm> (Chap 6)
>
Do the math for me, then, genius. How much downward force is there when
there is barely 1/16" clearance between the metal case of the planer and
the bottom of the rollers.
Also, why is is that I push a board through the planer with very little
effort with my fingertips on a planer with worn rollers and still get a
full removal of material. And explain how I can do this on a cupped
board. Do the math for me, Mr. Hawking.
I'm guessing you have experience with a planer that exerts a bunch of
unnecessary downward force. Fine, I don't argue that your does that. But
don't sit there and belittle my experience on my planer with your pissy
little condescending attitude, Missy.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/12/12 9:31 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 3/12/2012 6:05 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/12/12 11:49 AM, dpb wrote:
>>> Regardless of what mikey says,
>>
>> Oh, we're being condescending now. Ok, jerkwad.
>
> I'm no more condescending than you in "correcting" something that didn't
> need correction.
>
> --
Get over it and lighten up. You're the one who made an absolute
statement that a planer won't do anything to correct cupping, which is
completely false.
Sorry if you got offended at me "correcting" your false statement.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/12/2012 9:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
...
> Get over it and lighten up....
You can ask and post whatever you want as long as you don't spout
nonsense on top of me. You want to claim the planer is the tool of
choice for flattening, go ahead, but do it on your own and I'll let it ride.
Stomp on my info to the OP and _THAT_ is interference up with which I
will not put... :)
--
On 3/13/12 12:25 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 3/12/2012 9:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> ...
>
>> Get over it and lighten up....
>
> You can ask and post whatever you want as long as you don't spout
> nonsense on top of me. You want to claim the planer is the tool of
> choice for flattening, go ahead, but do it on your own and I'll let it
> ride.
Show me where I wrote that.
I wrote, "I remove cupping all the time with my planer."
That's quite a far cry from "tool of choice."
>
> Stomp on my info to the OP and _THAT_ is interference up with which I
> will not put... :)
>
> --
Stomp? Wow, I think you need a refresher course in reading comprehension
*and* you might want to see a doctor about your paranoia. :-p
Once again, get over yourself. I simply offered advice that was
different than yours in a matter-of-fact, non-confrontational manner.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"Ralph Compton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Got a Ridgid 13" planer last year, haven't used it much but, dang, it sure
> is noisy. Today I was planing some 1x10x30 pine boards, trying to get
> them kinda flat so as to make some simple trivets for campouts. Planed
> the boards with the cup side facing down. Taking off a very little.
>
> But, watching the dust going into the DC, I'm really not cutting much and
> by lowering the cutting head more it seems like all I'm doing is making
> more noise, hardly any more sawdust. So much noise I don't want to do
> this outdoors for the possiblility of annoying all my closest neighbors.
>
> I've watched some utube videos, and it looks like I'm doing everything
> right, but I feel I'm doing something wrong. Surely my blades aren't
> this hopelessly dull by now?
>
> I did clean my blades to remove some built-up residue from previous
> planing.
>
> I'm contenplating taking my planer down to the Ridgid shop for a
> look-over, after all, it's free, but I don't want to look entirely stupid.
>
> It seems to me that the blades might be bouncing the board because of the
> cupping. The worst board, cupping-wise, has about 1/8 inch in the middle
> of the 10" width.
>
> Ralph
A few thoughts...
Can you see if the "cut area" is wider with each pass? If so the additional
noise is most likely due to the wider cut as more wood is being removed...
Another possibility is that because you didn't face joint the board first
the feed rollers may be straining to flatten the board out as it's passing
through.
Did you clean the blades before or after this problem came up?
It would sure be easier to diagnosis in person!