A couple of questions for the more experienced.
1. If you have shoulders on all four sides of the tenon, two of the layout lines are
removed with the first two cuts. Is there any rationale for choosing to cut the sides or
cheeks of the tenon first in this situation ?
2. All the books say, in effect, "mark the tenon width from the mortise". OK, but that is
a bit of a balancing act, with little guarantee of accuracy. Is there a particular way of
doing this that will improve the mark's accuracy ?
MTIA
Only one P in my real address/ Un seul P dans ma véritable adresse
If you decide to machine the tenon, marking the work can be avoided altogether.
In the picture link, http://www.patwarner.com/images/tenoner3.jpg ,
the cutter makes the shoulder decision. It'll be constant from stick to stick.
A morticing jig can also be designed to accommodate any tenon thickness.
http://www.patwarner.com (Routers)
******************************************************************
> A couple of questions for the more experienced.
>
> 1. If you have shoulders on all four sides of the tenon, two of the layout lines are
> removed with the first two cuts. Is there any rationale for choosing to cut the sides or
> cheeks of the tenon first in this situation ?
>
> 2. All the books say, in effect, "mark the tenon width from the mortise". OK, but that is
> a bit of a balancing act, with little guarantee of accuracy. Is there a particular way of
> doing this that will improve the mark's accuracy ?
>
> MTIA
>
>
> Only one P in my real address/ Un seul P dans ma véritable adresse
On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:05:15 GMT, "Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote:
>If I'm reading you correctly regarding marking the tenon width from the
>mortise, it sounds like you're trying to use the ACTUAL board with the
>mortise and hold the board to be tenoned up next to it for marking. Maybe
>I'm wrong, if so I apologize. But, if this is, indeed, what is giving you
>trouble, it's no wonder. That would, as you say, be a balancing act.
>
>What the books are referring to, I'm almost 100% sure, is to use the mortise
>and a mortising or marking gauge. I have quite a few (and I'm definitely
>not a Neander, but I'm working my way in that direction), but the easiest is
>the Tite Mark. Basically, you just adjust the marking device (either a pair
>of knife-style cutters, pin-style cutters, etc.) so that the exact width of
>the mortise is set, and then use that gauge to mark for the tenons. This is
>a very accurate process and is definitely a lot easier than hefting boards
>and trying to hold them or align them for marking.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Mike
>
Thanks, but I'm afraid my question wasn't quite clear: the measurement I'm having trouble
with is what I call the width of the tenon: i.e., in a frame, the dimension that is
measured along the vertical (is that any clearer ?), the dimension that is not related to
the chisel's width and can't be marked with a mortise gauge. I was thinking more
particularly of the case of 4-shouldered tenons, or haunched tenons. How do you get the
top-to-bottom dimension right ? Is there any way other than measurement ?
(just out of curiosity, are you in Mystic as in Mystic Seaport, or is there another
location or meaning ?)
Only one P in my real address/ Un seul P dans ma véritable adresse
"Peter Wells" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A couple of questions for the more experienced.
>
> 1. If you have shoulders on all four sides of the tenon, two of the layout
lines are
> removed with the first two cuts. Is there any rationale for choosing to
cut the sides or
> cheeks of the tenon first in this situation ?
>
> 2. All the books say, in effect, "mark the tenon width from the mortise".
OK, but that is
> a bit of a balancing act, with little guarantee of accuracy. Is there a
particular way of
> doing this that will improve the mark's accuracy ?
>
> MTIA
>
>
> Only one P in my real address/ Un seul P dans ma véritable adresse
Hi MTIA,
If I'm reading you correctly regarding marking the tenon width from the
mortise, it sounds like you're trying to use the ACTUAL board with the
mortise and hold the board to be tenoned up next to it for marking. Maybe
I'm wrong, if so I apologize. But, if this is, indeed, what is giving you
trouble, it's no wonder. That would, as you say, be a balancing act.
What the books are referring to, I'm almost 100% sure, is to use the mortise
and a mortising or marking gauge. I have quite a few (and I'm definitely
not a Neander, but I'm working my way in that direction), but the easiest is
the Tite Mark. Basically, you just adjust the marking device (either a pair
of knife-style cutters, pin-style cutters, etc.) so that the exact width of
the mortise is set, and then use that gauge to mark for the tenons. This is
a very accurate process and is definitely a lot easier than hefting boards
and trying to hold them or align them for marking.
Hope this helps,
Mike