Band saw resaw question

Paul,
Did not mention the Bdft, because it is a lot. :)
More than I could use in 5 years time.
I do understand that it is not the best procedure. But my thinking is I
could justify a nice large band saw pretty quickly
Save for turning the Bandsaw into a small sawmill; my intention was to resaw
the wood as needed.

So with that said, I might be looking at resawing 100-200 Bdft a month at
max.

I was not thinking about going to a 3" bandsaw as that is way too pricey for
me.

I was looking for opinions in the difference between a 1 3/8" blade and a 2"
blade (as far as it applies to resawing).


Roger


"Paul Kierstead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:pmkierst-F67408.15474405042004@nntp.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Roger L" <rogerl@[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I have been looking for a larger bandsaw to resaw some read-oak, maple,
and
> > cherry.
> > Largest slab would be 4" thick by 12" wide, air dried for one year. As
I
> > have a bit of this material I was looking at a larger bandsaw to resaw
some
> > of it into 3/4 stock.
>
> How many bf-ft are we talking here? You might be waaay overkilling this.
> Certainly resawing can be done with less then a 3" blade...

David,
Thanks for the tips.
In doing a DAGS, from what liltle info I found, seems to lean towards a
wider blade. Although I also learned that a lot of people are doing just
fine on the thinner blades as you have mentioned. So the pros and cons seem
to be on both sides. With the cost of the smaller bandsaw and blades it
would seem to reason that a bandsaw that could go up to 1 3/8" would be just
fine.

I just want to keep it has headache free as possible, while making it
worthwhile. Not wanting to create some type of mess, where I will later say
"wish I had just purchased the wood from the lumber yard"

The other side that I am looking at is the cost of the blades. Was thinking
that I might think about going carbide..... but from what I have seen it
does not seem that cost effective; and purchasing a number of good quality
"cheaper" blades will be more of a benefit (save for the time required to
swap blades).
Given the reviews that I have seen regarding some of the "higher" end
blades, it seems like money thrown out the window, as compared to other less
costly blades.

I would be curious if anyone else has had good experiences with say a
carbide for such resawing? Granted the wider kerf will not effect me for
this type of resawing that much.

Also does anyone know of a variable pitch blade that is not carbide or
expensive( say a 3tpi to 2tpi)? From what I have learned, they seem to be
of a benefit in this type of resawing.

Going with the smaller blade, also opens up some other machines; the Woodtek
for example (1" blade max), and seeing the recent positive review, this
might be a machine to look at.

Thanks,
Roger

"David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:s7pcc.24107$3%[email protected]...
> Dear Roger,
>
> I don't think you need a big blade, the quality of the saw will make a
> bigger difference.
>
> I had to train a few guys at a local pattern shop on a new Tannawitz 5HP,
> 24" bandsaw that I sold them and I was doing incredible resawing with a
1/4"
> blade.
>
> FWIW, most Woodmizer type bandmills use a 1-1/4" blade.
>
> I have a 3/4", 3 TPI blade on my 3hp, 20" Wadkin bandsaw and it resaws
very
> well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David.
>
> Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
> Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>
> Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
>
> rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
> Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
> Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
>
>

Hi David
i use my saw almost exclusively for resawing although u can use a narrow
blade using it will cause heat build up and will reduce the use of the
blade. I would go with as
wide as you can use and then a 3tpi. Im cutting my boards down to 1/4 inch
so i know twisting is
no problem also i draw a line down the edge to mark center to help me guide
it thru the cut
of course i have to plane it then but thats besides the point.
one other thing i would suggest is to use a lub on your blade this alone
will make a diffrence on several aspects.

"David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:s7pcc.24107$3%[email protected]...
> Dear Roger,
>
> I don't think you need a big blade, the quality of the saw will make a
> bigger difference.
>
> I had to train a few guys at a local pattern shop on a new Tannawitz 5HP,
> 24" bandsaw that I sold them and I was doing incredible resawing with a
1/4"
> blade.
>
> FWIW, most Woodmizer type bandmills use a 1-1/4" blade.
>
> I have a 3/4", 3 TPI blade on my 3hp, 20" Wadkin bandsaw and it resaws
very
> well.
>
> Thanks,
>
> David.
>
> Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
> Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>
> Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
>
> rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
> Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
> Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
>
>

Paul,

I am curious as to your comment :
"I suspect you will might find the advantage of a quite large saw to be
pretty poor"

Are you saying that it might not be worth the money going to a larger saw?

Yes I will be feeding them myself, and with the ADD kicking in, I am hoping
to make it as easy as possible.

"Drive-bys" are welcome as long as you are willing to help feed. :)

I was looking at some of the Grizzly roller tables they have listed in their
catalog for support for this project. I am sure that I would find many more
uses for them other than this one project.

The one limiting facto that I do have with a 14" would be the depth of cut.
Not sure how realistic it would be, but I would like the option to be able
to resaw a 12" er if needed.

Roger
"Paul Kierstead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:pmkierst-0D728B.11022207042004@nntp.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> "Roger L" <rogerl@[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Paul,
> > Did not mention the Bdft, because it is a lot. :)
> > More than I could use in 5 years time.
>
> Ahh..A little drive-by :)
>
>
> > So with that said, I might be looking at resawing 100-200 Bdft a month
at
> > max.
> >
> > I was not thinking about going to a 3" bandsaw as that is way too pricey
for
> > me.
> >
> > I was looking for opinions in the difference between a 1 3/8" blade and
a 2"
> > blade (as far as it applies to resawing).
>
> Ok, I am not terribly experienced so take this for what it is worth. The
> biggest I have used is a 5/8", which I discarded as my saw (Delta 14")
> seemed unable to tension it to my satisfaction, that is the cut sucked.
> I have used a 1/2" and resaws very very nicely, though somewhat
> slowly....though the saw is actually pretty hard to really bog down. For
> only 100-200 bd-ft/month, I suspect you will might find the advantage of
> a quite large saw to be pretty poor. Perhaps a 1.5 or 2 HP 16"-20" would
> do the trick very nicely. With some good support (assuming long boards),
> my Delta could it; this partly depends on if "time is money", i.e. are
> you paying someone to feed it or losing money by feeding it your self.

In rec.woodworking
Layne <> wrote:

>This is true. A lot of people think they need a thick blade in order
>to resaw. Usually a thinner blade will work better. It's easier to
>tension with less stress on the machine. A thinner blade will tend to
>flex backwards before it flexes sideways....whereas a thicker blade
>will tend to flex sideways first.

Just wondering why I see these 3-6" blades on all the commercial resaws if
thin is better?

Roger,

I have a Jet 16" bandsaw. It has a new 1" - 3tpi blade and resaws
perfectly. I have used on 8/4 x 11 maple, 6/4 x 10 purpleheart, and a ton
of birch, oak and beech. I am very happy with the performance (after
replacing the factory blade).

I have used to slice of pieces as thin as 1/8" from 10" stock, Two or three
passes thru the drum sander and they were perfect.

Dave

"Roger L" <rogerl@[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have been looking for a larger bandsaw to resaw some read-oak, maple,
and
> cherry.
> Largest slab would be 4" thick by 12" wide, air dried for one year. As I
> have a bit of this material I was looking at a larger bandsaw to resaw
some
> of it into 3/4 stock.
> At first I was looking at the Wilke's model
>
> Looking at the Wilke's PBS-540 it only claims to be able to hold a 1 3/8"
> blade.
>
http://www.wilkemach.com/OnlineCatalogDetailResults.tpl?SearchDetail=3039417
> 982169&PreviousCategory=Bandsaws&RecNum=0
>
> In thinking that a 2" or bigger 3 TPI blade would be ideal for resawing...
I
> am now thinking the Grizzly Model G0507 would be better.
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=G0507
>
> Am I wrong in thinking that the 2" blade would be that much better for
> resawing than the 1 3/8" blade. Granted a 3" (I assume) blade would be
> ideal, but such a machine is out of my league.
>
> I was leaning towards the Wilkes, due to the 14" height versus the 12" of
> the Grizzly but the difference in the blade width has me leaning towards
the
> Grizzly.
>
> Any one have an opinion on the blade width?
>
>
> I do plan on using a power feeder ....
>
>
> Thanks,
> Roger
>
>




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In article <[email protected]>, rogerl@NOSSSPAM says...
> David,
> Thanks for the tips.
> In doing a DAGS, from what liltle info I found, seems to lean towards a
> wider blade. Although I also learned that a lot of people are doing just
> fine on the thinner blades as you have mentioned. So the pros and cons seem
> to be on both sides. With the cost of the smaller bandsaw and blades it
> would seem to reason that a bandsaw that could go up to 1 3/8" would be just
> fine.
>
> I just want to keep it has headache free as possible, while making it
> worthwhile. Not wanting to create some type of mess, where I will later say
> "wish I had just purchased the wood from the lumber yard"
>
> The other side that I am looking at is the cost of the blades. Was thinking
> that I might think about going carbide..... but from what I have seen it
> does not seem that cost effective; and purchasing a number of good quality
> "cheaper" blades will be more of a benefit (save for the time required to
> swap blades).
> Given the reviews that I have seen regarding some of the "higher" end
> blades, it seems like money thrown out the window, as compared to other less
> costly blades.
>
> I would be curious if anyone else has had good experiences with say a
> carbide for such resawing? Granted the wider kerf will not effect me for
> this type of resawing that much.
>
> Also does anyone know of a variable pitch blade that is not carbide or
> expensive( say a 3tpi to 2tpi)? From what I have learned, they seem to be
> of a benefit in this type of resawing.
>
> Going with the smaller blade, also opens up some other machines; the Woodtek
> for example (1" blade max), and seeing the recent positive review, this
> might be a machine to look at.
>
> Thanks,
> Roger

I just purchased a Supercut 5/8" resaw blade from Lee Valley Tools. It
is quite thin, 3 TPI and has carbide impregnated teeth. I just
installed it and made a few test cuts with in and was quite impressed
with the quality of cut and ease with which the wood went through the
blade. I have a Delta 14" band saw.

They (Supercut) also claim to have a set of guide blocks that are made
from a lubricated plastic that can be placed right against the blade
(zero clearance). Haven't heard from anyone who has used them yet.
www.supercutbandsaw.com

Allan Bartel

In article <qVWdc.121$i%[email protected]>, [email protected]
says...
>
> "Allan Bartel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > I just purchased a Supercut 5/8" resaw blade from Lee Valley Tools. It
> > is quite thin, 3 TPI and has carbide impregnated teeth.
>
> Impregnated? Do they soak the teeth in a solution of water, salt, and
> carbide? Is this somre sort of alloy? Anyone have information on how this
> is done and if it really works?
> Ed
> [email protected]
> http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
>
>
Don't know how they do it . . . they say "teeth are impregnated with
carbide particles." Check
http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/Design/woodsaver.html. Blade is .025"
thick, 3 TBI, .035 cutting kerf, available in 5/8" or 1" width. The
website leaves a lot to be desired in giving details.

Allan

Woodslicer, from higland hardware is a variable tooth, but it only comes in
1/2". It has a tiny kerf too (great for delicate work, but perhaps not best
for your application). I am very happy with mine so far. It might not,
however, be the best choice for logs. The benefit, as I understand it, of
variable tooth is combating sympathetic vibrations, and consequently
offering a cleaner cut. That is not really a criteria for rough-cutting
logs. I would think that you would want an aggressive cut rather than a
clean cut.

I do not have any experience with monster saws or carbide, but I looked at
them and got the impression that they start making sense for heavy
production use (much more volume than your stated intent), or carbide for
super-smooth (near finish quality) cutting, i.g. making veneer.

-Steve




"Roger L" <rogerl@[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> David,
> Thanks for the tips.
> In doing a DAGS, from what liltle info I found, seems to lean towards a
> wider blade. Although I also learned that a lot of people are doing just
> fine on the thinner blades as you have mentioned. So the pros and cons
seem
> to be on both sides. With the cost of the smaller bandsaw and blades it
> would seem to reason that a bandsaw that could go up to 1 3/8" would be
just
> fine.
>
> I just want to keep it has headache free as possible, while making it
> worthwhile. Not wanting to create some type of mess, where I will later
say
> "wish I had just purchased the wood from the lumber yard"
>
> The other side that I am looking at is the cost of the blades. Was
thinking
> that I might think about going carbide..... but from what I have seen it
> does not seem that cost effective; and purchasing a number of good quality
> "cheaper" blades will be more of a benefit (save for the time required to
> swap blades).
> Given the reviews that I have seen regarding some of the "higher" end
> blades, it seems like money thrown out the window, as compared to other
less
> costly blades.
>
> I would be curious if anyone else has had good experiences with say a
> carbide for such resawing? Granted the wider kerf will not effect me for
> this type of resawing that much.
>
> Also does anyone know of a variable pitch blade that is not carbide or
> expensive( say a 3tpi to 2tpi)? From what I have learned, they seem to be
> of a benefit in this type of resawing.
>
> Going with the smaller blade, also opens up some other machines; the
Woodtek
> for example (1" blade max), and seeing the recent positive review, this
> might be a machine to look at.
>
> Thanks,
> Roger
>
> "David F. Eisan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:s7pcc.24107$3%[email protected]...
> > Dear Roger,
> >
> > I don't think you need a big blade, the quality of the saw will make a
> > bigger difference.
> >
> > I had to train a few guys at a local pattern shop on a new Tannawitz
5HP,
> > 24" bandsaw that I sold them and I was doing incredible resawing with a
> 1/4"
> > blade.
> >
> > FWIW, most Woodmizer type bandmills use a 1-1/4" blade.
> >
> > I have a 3/4", 3 TPI blade on my 3hp, 20" Wadkin bandsaw and it resaws
> very
> > well.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > David.
> >
> > Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
> >
> > Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
> >
> > Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
> >
> > rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
> > Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
> > Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
> >
> >
>
>

This is true. A lot of people think they need a thick blade in order
to resaw. Usually a thinner blade will work better. It's easier to
tension with less stress on the machine. A thinner blade will tend to
flex backwards before it flexes sideways....whereas a thicker blade
will tend to flex sideways first.

Layne

On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 03:04:56 GMT, "David F. Eisan"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Dear Roger,
>
>I don't think you need a big blade, the quality of the saw will make a
>bigger difference.
>
>I had to train a few guys at a local pattern shop on a new Tannawitz 5HP,
>24" bandsaw that I sold them and I was doing incredible resawing with a 1/4"
>blade.
>
>FWIW, most Woodmizer type bandmills use a 1-1/4" blade.
>
>I have a 3/4", 3 TPI blade on my 3hp, 20" Wadkin bandsaw and it resaws very
>well.
>
>Thanks,
>
>David.
>
>Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
>
>Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
>
>Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.
>
>rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
>Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
>Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar
>

In article <[email protected]>,
"Roger L" <rogerl@[email protected]> wrote:

> Paul,
> Did not mention the Bdft, because it is a lot. :)
> More than I could use in 5 years time.

Ahh..A little drive-by :)


> So with that said, I might be looking at resawing 100-200 Bdft a month at
> max.
>
> I was not thinking about going to a 3" bandsaw as that is way too pricey for
> me.
>
> I was looking for opinions in the difference between a 1 3/8" blade and a 2"
> blade (as far as it applies to resawing).

Ok, I am not terribly experienced so take this for what it is worth. The
biggest I have used is a 5/8", which I discarded as my saw (Delta 14")
seemed unable to tension it to my satisfaction, that is the cut sucked.
I have used a 1/2" and resaws very very nicely, though somewhat
slowly....though the saw is actually pretty hard to really bog down. For
only 100-200 bd-ft/month, I suspect you will might find the advantage of
a quite large saw to be pretty poor. Perhaps a 1.5 or 2 HP 16"-20" would
do the trick very nicely. With some good support (assuming long boards),
my Delta could it; this partly depends on if "time is money", i.e. are
you paying someone to feed it or losing money by feeding it your self.

In article <[email protected]>,
"Roger L" <rogerl@[email protected]> wrote:

> I have been looking for a larger bandsaw to resaw some read-oak, maple, and
> cherry.
> Largest slab would be 4" thick by 12" wide, air dried for one year. As I
> have a bit of this material I was looking at a larger bandsaw to resaw some
> of it into 3/4 stock.

How many bf-ft are we talking here? You might be waaay overkilling this.
Certainly resawing can be done with less then a 3" blade...

"Allan Bartel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I just purchased a Supercut 5/8" resaw blade from Lee Valley Tools. It
> is quite thin, 3 TPI and has carbide impregnated teeth.

Impregnated? Do they soak the teeth in a solution of water, salt, and
carbide? Is this somre sort of alloy? Anyone have information on how this
is done and if it really works?
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

Dear Roger,

I don't think you need a big blade, the quality of the saw will make a
bigger difference.

I had to train a few guys at a local pattern shop on a new Tannawitz 5HP,
24" bandsaw that I sold them and I was doing incredible resawing with a 1/4"
blade.

FWIW, most Woodmizer type bandmills use a 1-1/4" blade.

I have a 3/4", 3 TPI blade on my 3hp, 20" Wadkin bandsaw and it resaws very
well.

Thanks,

David.

Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.

Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.

Newbies, please read this newsgroups FAQ.

rec.ww FAQ http://www.robson.org/woodfaq/
Archives http://groups.google.com/advanced_group_search
Crowbar FAQ http://www.klownhammer.org/crowbar

I love my Woodslicer blade, I just wish they made it in sizes other than 1/2".
I'd love to have a 1/4" for tight curves, and a 3/4" or 1" would be great for
resawing. That said, the 1/2" Woodslicer works great for resawing, and the
finish is very clean. I've sliced a lot of Mesquite logs into lumber with this
blade, and I've felt no temptation to go to anything else, carbide or otherwise.

--
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