http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/horiztabl.html
There's a couple of things I could do a bit faster, a bit easier,
with a horizontal router. So, I've been thinking about making something
along these lines. I've gon an old scissor-type car jack that would
work nicely for lifting and lowering. I figure a hose faucet on the
jack would work. I'd use plywood, probably double pieces lamiated
together, for stiffness. Haven't spent much time thinking it out,
because I've got other priorities for now. Might have to make a
"learning unit" then make another that's right, but it's not rocket
science, and shouldn't take too long to make either. I'm just wondering
what size nails I should be using, "just until the glue dries".
JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax
J T wrote:
> There's a couple of things I could do a bit faster, a bit easier,
> with a horizontal router. So, I've been thinking about making something
> along these lines. I've gon an old scissor-type car jack that would
> work nicely for lifting and lowering. I figure a hose faucet on the
> jack would work. I'd use plywood, probably double pieces lamiated
> together, for stiffness. Haven't spent much time thinking it out,
> because I've got other priorities for now. Might have to make a
> "learning unit" then make another that's right, but it's not rocket
> science, and shouldn't take too long to make either. I'm just wondering
> what size nails I should be using, "just until the glue dries".
OK maybe I'm just having brain freeze, but I can't for the life of me
figure out how you'd mount the hose faucet on the jack nor what in the
world you'd use it for. Have I got the wrong picture in my head? Isn't
a hose faucet one of those brass thingies(technical term) on the side
of your house that you twist the handle and water comes out? Did you
mean hose clamp by chance? bc
Wed, Mar 29, 2006, 8:58am (EST-3) [email protected] (bc) acts
puzzled:
OK maybe I'm just having brain freeze, but I can't for the life of me
figure out how you'd mount the hose faucet <snip>
Did the word "handle" get left out? LMAO Makes it very easy to
make teeny adjustments. For those of you that dont't get it, you use a
hose faucet in place of the jack crank.
JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax
J T wrote:
>
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/ho
riztabl.html
>
> There's a couple of things I could do a bit faster, a bit easier,
> with a horizontal router. So, I've been thinking about making
> something along these lines. I've gon an old scissor-type car jack
> that would work nicely for lifting and lowering. I figure a hose
> faucet on the jack would work. I'd use plywood, probably double
> pieces lamiated together, for stiffness. Haven't spent much time
> thinking it out, because I've got other priorities for now. Might
> have to make a "learning unit" then make another that's right, but
> it's not rocket science, and shouldn't take too long to make either.
> I'm just wondering what size nails I should be using, "just until the
> glue dries".
When I made my router table I also made a piece so I could mount the
router horizontally. Don't use it much but it is handy at times.
It is 1 1/2 thick (I used PB, laminate over) and is mounted to a stout
piece ( about 3.5" x 3.5" under and at the back of the table) at one
corner by a through bolt with a "spinner" handle to loosen/tighten it.
There is another, similar bolt and handle near the opposite side; that
bolt also goes through a radiused through groove in the horizontal
table.
Normally, it hangs down at the back of the regular table just below the
table surface. To use, one loosens the bolt that goes through the
radiused groove and lifts the whole works up, pivoting it on the fixed
fastening; I cut the groove at particular distance from the fixed pivot
point and there is an aluminum ruler screwed to the non-pivot end of the
horizontal table which means I can set a particular height by using the
ruler. The scale on the ruler isn't the actual movement but is
relative; for example, a 1/16 difference on the ruler = 1/32 height
difference for the bit. I have a little lexan hairline scale on the
router table itself which can be zeroed and reads the ruler scale.
The router mounts to the horizontal table in the same way it does to the
normal table. The 3.5 x 3.5 piece has a 2" square cut out to accomodate
the bits.
Hard to visualize, I know, but it is easy to build & easy to use. If
you want more info, ask.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Wed, Mar 29, 2006, 11:59pm (EST+5) [email protected]
(John=A0B) waves and says:
G'day J T,
Bugger the glue, Just use long nails and bend them over on the back. ;)
Too bad I stopped drinking, quality woodworking skills like yours
are hard to find, and you inspire me so much I'm tempted to fly down for
a visit and to buy you a beer.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/doc/
JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
"know"?.
- Granny Weatherwax
[email protected] (J T) wrote:
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/h
> oriztabl.html
>
> There's a couple of things I could do a bit faster, a bit easier,
> with a horizontal router. So, I've been thinking about making
> something along these lines. I've gon an old scissor-type car jack
> that would work nicely for lifting and lowering. I figure a hose
> faucet on the jack would work. I'd use plywood, probably double
> pieces lamiated together, for stiffness. Haven't spent much time
> thinking it out, because I've got other priorities for now. Might
> have to make a "learning unit" then make another that's right, but
> it's not rocket science, and shouldn't take too long to make either.
> I'm just wondering what size nails I should be using, "just until the
> glue dries".
Another one here:
<http://www.woodhaven.com/detail.aspx?ID=91>
How about allowing the router carriage to slide side to side, in addition to
height adjustment. Seems useful for cutting tenons on long stock that may
be difficult to move, even with a sled. I had also envisioned an acme lead
screw or even a 1/4-16 threaded rod for height adjustment, more elegant than
rotating the router up or down around a stationary pivot point.... never
thought of a scissor lift though!
I am new to all this, so comments are appreciated.
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/horiztabl.html
>
> There's a couple of things I could do a bit faster, a bit easier,
> with a horizontal router. So, I've been thinking about making something
> along these lines. I've gon an old scissor-type car jack that would
> work nicely for lifting and lowering. I figure a hose faucet on the
> jack would work. I'd use plywood, probably double pieces lamiated
> together, for stiffness. Haven't spent much time thinking it out,
> because I've got other priorities for now. Might have to make a
> "learning unit" then make another that's right, but it's not rocket
> science, and shouldn't take too long to make either. I'm just wondering
> what size nails I should be using, "just until the glue dries".
>
>
>
> JOAT
> You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear". What do you
> "know"?.
> - Granny Weatherwax
>