10" Saw Blades

On Aug 24, 1:14 pm, "asmurff" <[email protected]> wrote:
> Three part question. First when it comes to 10" saw blades what do you keep
> on hand as far as teeth per inch?

nothing. circular saw blades are measured in teeth per blade. how many
teeth you can run on a blade is largely a function of how much
horsepower your saw has. the shape of those teeth is largely a
function of what you are cutting.



> Secondly, who makes the best blades for the money?

what is the best flavor of ice cream?



>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?

blades with too many teeth for your saw motor, blades with the wrong
tooth configuration for your material, blades with the wrong service
life for your business model.

On Aug 27, 7:40 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> Frank Boettcher wrote:
>
> > So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
> > being touched with a wrench?
>
> If so, you'd think that would classify as a misfire.

I am not electical expert by any means, but wouldn"t the wrench act as
a conduit between your hand and the blade--the same as if you hand
touched the blade.

Somebody with a touch lamp see if you can turn it on/off with a metal
wrench in your bare hand.

Dave

On 27 Aug, 07:55, DLB <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Aug 27, 7:40 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Frank Boettcher wrote:
>
> > > So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
> > > being touched with a wrench?
>
> > If so, you'd think that would classify as a misfire.
>
> I am not electical expert by any means, but wouldn"t the wrench act as
> a conduit between your hand and the blade--the same as if you hand
> touched the blade.
>
> Somebody with a touch lamp see if you can turn it on/off with a metal
> wrench in your bare hand.
>
> Dave

The only time I saw the SS being tested was on TOH. The words "senses
the moisture in your finger" were used to explain the firing
mechanism. They laid a hot dog on top of a piece of wood to fire the
brake.

The moisture statement didn't sit well with me since wood can have
varying moisture levels, even within the same piece of stock, so how
would it know the difference between an uncut finger and a piece of
wood? The fact that it fired with an allen wrench also tells me that
moisture isn't involved.

So, how does it work?

On Aug 27, 4:40 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
> Frank Boettcher wrote:
>
> > So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
> > being touched with a wrench?
>
> If so, you'd think that would classify as a misfire.

no, that's proper function for that machine.

On Aug 27, 4:57 pm, "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:40:51 -0700, "Glen" <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
>
> >>"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
> >>news:[email protected]...
> >>> "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>news:[email protected]...
>
> >>>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>>news:[email protected]...
> >>>>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>> <snip>
> >>>>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>
> >>>>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>
> >>>>> Mike O.
>
> >>>> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I
> >>>> teach agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a
> >>>> SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to be
> >>>> made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual
> >>>> and
> >>>> thought the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he
> >>>> fired up the saw and touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench.
> >>>> The
> >>>> blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to replace the POS
> >>>> stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud
> >>>> blade
> >>>> in place of the one that came with the saw.
>
> >>>> Glen
>
> >>> Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician need a
> >>> new *rsehole)?
>
> >>No, but I understand thet the night supervisor had a talk with him,
> >>explaining that he should not play with the toys. I believe that the
> >>blade
> >>came out of his pocket, but the SS cartridge came out of the dep'ts
> >>budget.
>
> >>Glen
>
> > So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
> > being touched with a wrench?
>
> > Frank
>
> Yes. I may not be explaining it scientifically correct, but if something
> touches the blade .......



something that conducts electricity very much better than dry wood,
that is.

"Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
<snip>
>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>
> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>
> Mike O.

Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I teach
agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a SS pro/con
session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to be made by one of
the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual and thought the idea
of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he fired up the saw and
touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench. The blade stopped all
right, but it was toast. He had to replace the POS stock blade with a new
blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud blade in place of the one that
came with the saw.

Glen

"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>> <snip>
>>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>>>
>>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>>>
>>> Mike O.
>>
>> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I
>> teach agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a
>> SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to be
>> made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual and
>> thought the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he
>> fired up the saw and touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench. The
>> blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to replace the POS
>> stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud blade
>> in place of the one that came with the saw.
>>
>> Glen
>
> Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician need a
> new *rsehole)?
>
No, but I understand thet the night supervisor had a talk with him,
explaining that he should not play with the toys. I believe that the blade
came out of his pocket, but the SS cartridge came out of the dep'ts budget.

Glen

"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:40:51 -0700, "Glen" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike O.
>>>>
>>>> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I
>>>> teach agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a
>>>> SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to be
>>>> made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual
>>>> and
>>>> thought the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he
>>>> fired up the saw and touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench.
>>>> The
>>>> blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to replace the POS
>>>> stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud
>>>> blade
>>>> in place of the one that came with the saw.
>>>>
>>>> Glen
>>>
>>> Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician need a
>>> new *rsehole)?
>>>
>>No, but I understand thet the night supervisor had a talk with him,
>>explaining that he should not play with the toys. I believe that the
>>blade
>>came out of his pocket, but the SS cartridge came out of the dep'ts
>>budget.
>>
>>Glen
>>
> So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
> being touched with a wrench?
>
> Frank

Yes. I may not be explaining it scientifically correct, but if something
touches the blade while on or still spinning the brake mechanism will trip.
It has something to do with changing the current flow through the blade.
(You scientific type people, feel free to interject with a more clear
explanation, if you like) The manual warns you that wood with a high
moisture content could cause a false firing. The positive side is that you
can touch the wood to the blade while off and a light will signal if it
would trip the brake mechanism, and you can turn off the brake with a key.
We have been using the saw for about a year now, and that was the only time
the brake fired. May I add, I really like the saw. It not only passes the
nickel test, it passes the dime test.

Glen

That would be a yes.

Glen

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Aug 27, 4:57 pm, "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:40:51 -0700, "Glen" <[email protected]>
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >>"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
>> >>news:[email protected]...
>> >>> "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> >>>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> >>>>news:[email protected]...
>> >>>>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff"
>> >>>>> <[email protected]>
>> >>>>> wrote:
>> >>>> <snip>
>> >>>>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>>
>> >>>>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>>
>> >>>>> Mike O.
>>
>> >>>> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where
>> >>>> I
>> >>>> teach agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not
>> >>>> have a
>> >>>> SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to
>> >>>> be
>> >>>> made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the
>> >>>> manual
>> >>>> and
>> >>>> thought the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so
>> >>>> he
>> >>>> fired up the saw and touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench.
>> >>>> The
>> >>>> blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to replace the
>> >>>> POS
>> >>>> stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud
>> >>>> blade
>> >>>> in place of the one that came with the saw.
>>
>> >>>> Glen
>>
>> >>> Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician
>> >>> need a
>> >>> new *rsehole)?
>>
>> >>No, but I understand thet the night supervisor had a talk with him,
>> >>explaining that he should not play with the toys. I believe that the
>> >>blade
>> >>came out of his pocket, but the SS cartridge came out of the dep'ts
>> >>budget.
>>
>> >>Glen
>>
>> > So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
>> > being touched with a wrench?
>>
>> > Frank
>>
>> Yes. I may not be explaining it scientifically correct, but if something
>> touches the blade .......
>
>
>
> something that conducts electricity very much better than dry wood,
> that is.
>

"Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
> <snip>
>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>>
>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>>
>> Mike O.
>
> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I teach agreed to buy my shop a
> new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the
> hook-up had to be made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual and thought
> the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he fired up the saw and touched the
> spinning blade with an alan wrench. The blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to
> replace the POS stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud blade in place
> of the one that came with the saw.
>
> Glen

Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician need a new *rsehole)?

On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Three part question. First when it comes to 10" saw blades what do you keep
>on hand as far as teeth per inch?

I cut all my moldings on the table saw with 80 tooth blades but I'll
change blades for specific purposes. I think my fewest TPI on a 10"
is 24 with the largest being 80 and several in between.

> Secondly, who makes the best blades for the money?

I'll agree that the Forrest blades are top of the line and in the long
run I think the best value..
For a little less money look at the Amana and Freud. I've used both
and they are quality blades but don't quite measure up to the Forrest.

>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?

Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)

Mike O.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On 27 Aug, 07:55, DLB <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Aug 27, 7:40 am, B A R R Y <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Frank Boettcher wrote:
>>
>>>>So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
>>>>being touched with a wrench?
>>
>>>If so, you'd think that would classify as a misfire.
>>
>>I am not electical expert by any means, but wouldn"t the wrench act as
>>a conduit between your hand and the blade--the same as if you hand
>>touched the blade.
>>
>>Somebody with a touch lamp see if you can turn it on/off with a metal
>>wrench in your bare hand.
>>
>>Dave
>
>
> The only time I saw the SS being tested was on TOH. The words "senses
> the moisture in your finger" were used to explain the firing
> mechanism. They laid a hot dog on top of a piece of wood to fire the
> brake.
>
> The moisture statement didn't sit well with me since wood can have
> varying moisture levels, even within the same piece of stock, so how
> would it know the difference between an uncut finger and a piece of
> wood? The fact that it fired with an allen wrench also tells me that
> moisture isn't involved.
>
> So, how does it work?
>

Quoted from an article on SawStop's web site:

http://www.sawstop.com/media/WoodshopNewsarticleJune2005.pdf

"The braking system works by applying a minimal
voltage (too low to feel) to the arbor and
blade, which are isolated from the rest of the
saw by a high-impact nonmetallic arbor coating.
If you touch the blade, your body draws
off some current, thus lowering the voltage.
The saw’s electronics sense the change in voltage
and trigger the brake. The torque created
by the rapidly stopping blade subsequently
causes it to drop below the table surface. All of
this takes place in the time it takes three to four
blade teeth to rotate through the contact point."

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]

"asmurff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Three part question. First when it comes to 10" saw blades what do you
> keep on hand as far as teeth per inch?

I keep 2 identical blades, both are Forrest WWII's 40 tooth regular kerf. I
have no other for regular sawing. This particular blade does rips, corss
cuts, and compound miters better than any single blade that I have ever
owned in the past 28 years.

Secondly, who makes the best blades for
> the money?

IMho the above mentioned brand. They stay sharp for a very long time.

And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?

Probably

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
>
> "Swingman" wrote in message
>>
>> Interesting ... That probably explains the Delta branded blade that came
>> with my Unisaw a few years back that is one of the best blades I've ever
>> used.
>
> The one that came on my saw is equal to a $10 Craftsman blade I use for
> rough cutting questionable wood. Can't tell them apart. Either you got
> lucky or I got a reject.

Like I said, I've always been a bit puzzled when folks bitched about the
Delta blades that came on the Unisaw, but it looks like Frank has cleared up
the mystery ... not my usual "luck", BTW.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/08/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"asmurff" wrote in message
> Three part question. First when it comes to 10" saw blades what do you
> keep on hand as far as teeth per inch? Secondly, who makes the best
> blades for the money? And last are there any blades to just flat stay
> away from?

I use a Forrest WWII (own 2) for 99% of my sawing needs on the TS; a Forrest
10" ChopMaster on my SCMS; and a Freud GlueLine Rip for those expensive wood
panel glue-ups.

If I was limited to one blade, it would be a Forrest WWII. While there are
other blades that may cut as well, the Forrest is likely a top contender for
best value for the buck considering the number of times they can be
re-sharpened to "like new", cost effectively.

The latter is an important consideration if you do much woodworking for
profit. I have a friend with a furniture/cabinet shop who goes through ten
Forrest WWII's a year with re-sharpening.

As always, YMMV depending upon your type of woodworking.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/08/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message

> I use a Leitz 50t ATB & R for my normal table saw blade; replace with
> a Leitz 60T ATB if I'm doing a lot of cross cutting, miter cutting, or
> working with composites. These both do a great job, however, it was
> not a purchase decision, it was because they were Delta OEM and I had
> low cost access to great, German made, blades.
>
> I use a Forrest chopmaster which is an 80T TC & F with a negative hook
> angle on my radial arm saw. Another great blade. Negative hook
> important for control, particularly on a RAS.
>
> I have a number of others being involved with the blade testing
> during the transition of Delta OEM from Leitz to Oldham after Delta
> purchased Oldham. These others, mostly test prototypes are branded
> Delta, but would probably be the equivilent of Oldham Signature
> series. I like them, and know from the testing they are good blades.
> This information approximatley three years old, today, who knows.

Interesting ... That probably explains the Delta branded blade that came
with my Unisaw a few years back that is one of the best blades I've ever
used.

Although I keep a Forrest on, if I have to ship both back for re-sharpening
which ocassionally happens, it is the first blade I grab.

I've said many times that it was an excellent blade, something you wouldn't
expect as OEM.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/8/07
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Interesting ... That probably explains the Delta branded blade that came
> with my Unisaw a few years back that is one of the best blades I've ever
> used.
>
> Although I keep a Forrest on, if I have to ship both back for
> re-sharpening
> which ocassionally happens, it is the first blade I grab.
>
> I've said many times that it was an excellent blade, something you
> wouldn't
> expect as OEM.


Several years ago Jet saws came equipped with Systematic blades. A
Systematic blade was my first good blade I ever had.

"Jim Behning" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well think of it as an uninsulated screwdriver, pliers, crimping tools
> etc. Electricians do not tend to use uninsulated tools and an
> uninsulated tool is just an extension of their hand.


This is what was originally said,

He saw the manual and thought the idea
of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he fired up the saw and
touched the spinning blade with an "alan" wrench.

On Sat, 25 Aug 2007 12:01:38 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Frank Boettcher" wrote in message
>
>> I use a Leitz 50t ATB & R for my normal table saw blade; replace with
>> a Leitz 60T ATB if I'm doing a lot of cross cutting, miter cutting, or
>> working with composites. These both do a great job, however, it was
>> not a purchase decision, it was because they were Delta OEM and I had
>> low cost access to great, German made, blades.
>>
>> I use a Forrest chopmaster which is an 80T TC & F with a negative hook
>> angle on my radial arm saw. Another great blade. Negative hook
>> important for control, particularly on a RAS.
>>
>> I have a number of others being involved with the blade testing
>> during the transition of Delta OEM from Leitz to Oldham after Delta
>> purchased Oldham. These others, mostly test prototypes are branded
>> Delta, but would probably be the equivilent of Oldham Signature
>> series. I like them, and know from the testing they are good blades.
>> This information approximatley three years old, today, who knows.
>
>Interesting ... That probably explains the Delta branded blade that came
>with my Unisaw a few years back that is one of the best blades I've ever
>used.
>
>Although I keep a Forrest on, if I have to ship both back for re-sharpening
>which ocassionally happens, it is the first blade I grab.
>
>I've said many times that it was an excellent blade, something you wouldn't
>expect as OEM.

Yep, more than likely a Leitz. Great balance, radial and axial
runnout tolerances, nice clean body polish and laser engraving rather
than silk screen labeling. Cuts like a dream.

I would have preferred to not buy Oldham and stay with Leitz. It was
not a Delta management decision, but a Pentair tool group decision.
Oldham pretty good, but Leitz slightly better IMHO.

Don't know what Oldham has become with the sale to B & D. They had
their own blade sources, and I think they shut down Oldham's North
Carolina facility.



Frank

On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:40:51 -0700, "Glen" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>> <snip>
>>>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>>>>
>>>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> Mike O.
>>>
>>> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I
>>> teach agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a
>>> SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to be
>>> made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual and
>>> thought the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he
>>> fired up the saw and touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench. The
>>> blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to replace the POS
>>> stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud blade
>>> in place of the one that came with the saw.
>>>
>>> Glen
>>
>> Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician need a
>> new *rsehole)?
>>
>No, but I understand thet the night supervisor had a talk with him,
>explaining that he should not play with the toys. I believe that the blade
>came out of his pocket, but the SS cartridge came out of the dep'ts budget.
>
>Glen
>
So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
being touched with a wrench?

Frank

On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Three part question. First when it comes to 10" saw blades what do you keep
>on hand as far as teeth per inch? Secondly, who makes the best blades for
>the money? And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?


I use a Leitz 50t ATB & R for my normal table saw blade; replace with
a Leitz 60T ATB if I'm doing a lot of cross cutting, miter cutting, or
working with composites. These both do a great job, however, it was
not a purchase decision, it was because they were Delta OEM and I had
low cost access to great, German made, blades.

I use a Forrest chopmaster which is an 80T TC & F with a negative hook
angle on my radial arm saw. Another great blade. Negative hook
important for control, particularly on a RAS.

I have a number of others being involved with the blade testing
during the transition of Delta OEM from Leitz to Oldham after Delta
purchased Oldham. These others, mostly test prototypes are branded
Delta, but would probably be the equivilent of Oldham Signature
series. I like them, and know from the testing they are good blades.
This information approximatley three years old, today, who knows.

There are many very good blades, and I suppose there are some junk
blades, however, other than some of the throw away stamped steel
blades used to satisfy UL (saw has to be sold with a blade, but we
sure don't know what you want...), I'm not too familiar with them.

Frank

On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Three part question. First when it comes to 10" saw blades what do you keep
>on hand as far as teeth per inch? Secondly, who makes the best blades for
>the money? And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?

I usually have a 40 tooth full kerf blade on the table saw. I have 30
tooth full kerf and 24 tooth thin kerf for when I need to do some
serious ripping in thicker stock. If you have a standard 1-1/2 hp or
less saw then it helps. Never used a more powerful cabinet saw, but I
imagine they can mow through 2" of maple with whatever blade you want
to use. For more than one cut it's worth the time to change blades on
my saw.

On the miter saw I have an 80 tooth. Not particularly any reason to
have anything else there.

Safest bet and bang for the buck: Freud. That's what all my blades
are except for the 40 tooth are, which is a Ridge Carbide.


-Leuf

On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:40:51 -0700, "Glen" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>> <snip>
>>>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>>>>
>>>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>>>>
>>>> Mike O.
>>>
>>> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I
>>> teach agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a
>>> SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to be
>>> made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual and
>>> thought the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he
>>> fired up the saw and touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench. The
>>> blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to replace the POS
>>> stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud blade
>>> in place of the one that came with the saw.
>>>
>>> Glen
>>
>> Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician need a
>> new *rsehole)?
>>
>No, but I understand thet the night supervisor had a talk with him,
>explaining that he should not play with the toys. I believe that the blade
>came out of his pocket, but the SS cartridge came out of the dep'ts budget.
>
>Glen
>

I almost hate to admit this but I bought a "Lifetime" 10" saw blade
sku# 46231 50 tooth with raker blade and carbide tipped distributed
by Harbor Freight. We are running it on a 3hp Delta unisaw to rip and
cross cut red oak and white pine and it is great! Don't remember what
I paid for it but it was cheap or I wouldn't have tried it! (one of
those something for nothing moments) It's been running for three
months with no degradation so far.
Kenneth

Frank Boettcher wrote:
>
> So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
> being touched with a wrench?

If so, you'd think that would classify as a misfire.

On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 06:31:39 -0500, Frank Boettcher
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sun, 26 Aug 2007 13:40:51 -0700, "Glen" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>"Dave Gordon" <d@p> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> "Glen" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>> "Mike O." <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On Fri, 24 Aug 2007 14:14:16 -0600, "asmurff" <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>> <snip>
>>>>>>And last are there any blades to just flat stay away from?
>>>>>
>>>>> Any blade that came with your new saw. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike O.
>>>>
>>>> Funny story there. Last year the vice principal at the school where I
>>>> teach agreed to buy my shop a new Saw Stop. (Please - let's not have a
>>>> SS pro/con session here) Since it is three phase the hook-up had to be
>>>> made by one of the school electricians/custodians. He saw the manual and
>>>> thought the idea of a saw stopping mechanism was just too cool, so he
>>>> fired up the saw and touched the spinning blade with an alan wrench. The
>>>> blade stopped all right, but it was toast. He had to replace the POS
>>>> stock blade with a new blade. I ended up with a good quality Freud blade
>>>> in place of the one that came with the saw.
>>>>
>>>> Glen
>>>
>>> Did your school end up with a new electrician (or the electrician need a
>>> new *rsehole)?
>>>
>>No, but I understand thet the night supervisor had a talk with him,
>>explaining that he should not play with the toys. I believe that the blade
>>came out of his pocket, but the SS cartridge came out of the dep'ts budget.
>>
>>Glen
>>
>So what you're saying is that the saw brake mechanism fired after
>being touched with a wrench?
>
>Frank
Well think of it as an uninsulated screwdriver, pliers, crimping tools
etc. Electricians do not tend to use uninsulated tools and an
uninsulated tool is just an extension of their hand. An electrician
blew himself up two weekends ago in our office complex. His helper got
60% burns. The how is with the lead electrician. They were having some
issue with the building popping main breakers. Electricity scares me.

On Sat, 25 Aug 2007 16:34:15 -0500, "Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
>>
>> "Swingman" wrote in message
>>>
>>> Interesting ... That probably explains the Delta branded blade that came
>>> with my Unisaw a few years back that is one of the best blades I've ever
>>> used.
>>
>> The one that came on my saw is equal to a $10 Craftsman blade I use for
>> rough cutting questionable wood. Can't tell them apart. Either you got
>> lucky or I got a reject.
>
>Like I said, I've always been a bit puzzled when folks bitched about the
>Delta blades that came on the Unisaw, but it looks like Frank has cleared up
>the mystery ... not my usual "luck", BTW.


Not a matter of luck or a reject. Depended on the model. Most
special edition Unisaws over the last twelve years had the Leitz or,
more recently, the Oldham blades. That was most of the saws sold.
IMHO, the special editions were usually a pretty good deal.

The factory could not substitute blades, had to supply what was on the
BOM for the particular model. Sweat it out many times waiting for
those Leitz blades to come in so the line could run.

Frank

"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Interesting ... That probably explains the Delta branded blade that came
> with my Unisaw a few years back that is one of the best blades I've ever
> used.

The one that came on my saw is equal to a $10 Craftsman blade I use for
rough cutting questionable wood. Can't tell them apart. Either you got
lucky or I got a reject.

For serious work, I use a Ridge Carbide 40T and I have a couple of Freud
Diablo 80T that have done more than they were designed for.