Scored some recycled mahogany today. There was over 70 bd. ft of it
that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
it
is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
That stopped me because there could be nails and until
I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
nick a knife.
Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
MJ
On Jun 22, 9:01=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Scored some recycled mahogany =A0today. =A0There was over 70 bd. ft of it
> that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
> 8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
> it
> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
> approach, to =A0safely remove the paint/stain?
>
> Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>
> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
> nick a knife.
>
> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
> they did =A0Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
> MJ
Last stripping job I did -- a set of kitchen cabinet doors --
I used a card scraper to take off the old paint in record
time. Scraper edges were just filed, not burnished.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Scored some recycled mahogany today. <snip>
All of
> it
> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
> approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
-----------------------------------
If you don't have one, time to get a metal detector, also a box of 24
grit belts, some chemical stripper and protective clothing.
Clean and prep only enough for a project + 10% at one time.
Check for and remove any metal pieces.
As Ed suggests, use chemical stripper to get rid of the heavy stuff
disposing of waste properly.
Clean up with 24 grit belts.
Send ONLY clean wood thru planer.
Plan your projects around 1/2" thick finished stock, 5/8" if you are
lucky.
Although not painted, used a similar approach to clean up weathered
8/4 White Oak and 8/4 Brown Maple.
Have fun.
Lew
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in news:6c7ce51e-
[email protected]:
*snip*
>
> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
> nick a knife.
>
> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
> MJ
Chemicals can work wonders, but if you've got to use belt sander or
planer to clean up the board anyway, why mess with chemicals? OTOH, a
chemical stripper might require less material removal to get to bare
wood.
You could use a table saw to remove the paint on the edges, considering
the table saw blade is probably the cheapest replaceable sharp tool in
the shop. A $10 blade will be more than sufficent for this purpose.
I won't clean material up or cut out the bad spots until I know what I
need. Imagine a 1x4x3' with a 1' bad section about halfway down on one
side of the board. I can either get a pair of 1x4s around 1' long (and a
1x2 about 1' long), or a 1x2 3' long (and 2 more 1x2s 1' long).
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
<[email protected]> wrote:
> Now, can anyone recommend a particular chem. stripper
> that is safe.
-------------------------------------
When it comes to chemical paint removers, "good" and "safe" can be
mutually exclusive terms.
The "good" stuff will be NAOH (Sodium hydroxide, caustic, etc) based.
Your ability to buy it will largely be determined by where you live.
Time for Robert (Nailshooter) to jump in.
Lew
Use a planer and plane it off. Dispose just in case.
Clean the planer.
If you use chemical, it might sink deeper in the pores.
I'm thinking skim cuts on the painted side only.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/
On 6/22/2010 8:01 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> Scored some recycled mahogany today. There was over 70 bd. ft of it
> that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
> 8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
> it
> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
> approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
>
> Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>
> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
> nick a knife.
>
> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
> MJ
I want to thank all of you who responded. So it seems
that chemical stripping is the way to go.
I will be doing only what I need at a time, so it will
take me years to get through the wood.
Now, can anyone recommend a particular chem. stripper
that is safe. Woodcraft sells Star-10. Any good?
Thanks so much!
MJ
On Wed, 23 Jun 2010 16:24:49 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I want to thank all of you who responded. So it seems
>that chemical stripping is the way to go.
>
>I will be doing only what I need at a time, so it will
>take me years to get through the wood.
>
>Now, can anyone recommend a particular chem. stripper
>that is safe. Woodcraft sells Star-10. Any good?
>
>Thanks so much!
>
>MJ
The "safe" strippers don't work as well as the hasher chemical
strippers. You will need to make that decision. If I had kids in
the house or did not have a well-ventilated area, I'd pick the safer
stripper. The inexpensive no-brand strippers work very well, just
protect your skin, eyes and lungs.
On Tue, 22 Jun 2010 18:01:13 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Scored some recycled mahogany today. There was over 70 bd. ft of it
>that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
>8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
>it
>is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
>is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
>approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
>
>Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>
>I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
>me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
>That stopped me because there could be nails and until
>I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
>nick a knife.
>
>Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
>they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
>MJ
Recycled wood is great, but work is involved. Buy a metal
detector--this will save you bucks many times over in ruining a blade.
I'd use a paint stripper--but ONLY if I had a well-ventilated area. A
scraper is much better than sanding in keeping the dust (harmful or
not) as low as possible. Apply the stripper thick, cover with
plastic wrap, allow the stripper to work for 30-40 minutes, then scrap
off the crud. Don't allow this stuff on your skin, in your eyes, or
up your nose.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:6c7ce51e-8417-479e-9a3d-883effcf824c@b35g2000yqi.googlegroups.com...
> Scored some recycled mahogany today. There was over 70 bd. ft of it
> that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
> 8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
> it
> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
> approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
>
> Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>
> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
> nick a knife.
>
> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
> MJ
I'd use a chemical It has the advantage of not kicking up lead dust if
there is lead paint present. Paint it on, wait, scrape it off. Then I'd
use either a belt sander or planer to get rid of any residue. If you use a
planer, get a set of new blades for after you are done as you may need them.
"HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote
> Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
>
> Did you get this material from my ex-wife (who, while I was out of town,
> painted a walnut bookcase).
>
That was quite fashionable back in the 60's. When I was 5, my mother bought
a chest of drawers for my brother and I to have in our bedroom. After we
both left home, he took the chest and later his wife bought an "antiquing
kit" and painted it green with a glaze over it. I guess it was nice in 1970,
but sure looked like crap some years later. Somehow, I ended up with it and
hid it in a spare room. Fast forward 55 years A few years ago my wife
convinced my to strip it and refinish it. and now I have a lovely maple
chest in my office. Original brass hardware and the maker's name (Thos.
Beals Portland Maine) is inside of one of the drawers. I love it!
[email protected] wrote:
> Scored some recycled mahogany today. There was over 70 bd. ft of it
> that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
> 8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
> it
> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
> approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
>
> Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>
> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
> nick a knife.
>
> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
Did you get this material from my ex-wife (who, while I was out of town,
painted a walnut bookcase).
Art,
=A0I don't see any advantage to leaving
> a bunch of boards with paint hiding the perfect piece for the
> current project.
I can see the backside of the boards, which are unfinished. I'm
going to swipe them with something (tung oil, mineral spirits,
whatever)
to see what kind of color comes up.
Given the cost of this wood, even if I end up staining it, it's
cheap.
The big task is for me: removing the paint and finding the nails.
MJ
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 07:51:43 -0500, "HeyBub" <[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> Scored some recycled mahogany today. There was over 70 bd. ft of it
>> that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
>> 8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
>> it
>> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
>> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
>> approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
>>
>> Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>>
>> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
>> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
>> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
>> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
>> nick a knife.
>>
>> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
>> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>>
>
>Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
Sure, my father used a lot of green painted mahogany. He got it WW-II
surplus. Seems the Army loved to make shipping crates out of the stuff.
>Did you get this material from my ex-wife (who, while I was out of town,
>painted a walnut bookcase).
No wonder she's an "ex".
On Jun 27, 4:35=A0pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:46:07 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
> <[email protected]> wrote the following:
>
>
>
>
>
> >On Jun 22, 9:01=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> >wrote:
> >> Scored some recycled mahogany =A0today. =A0There was over 70 bd. ft of=
it
> >> that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
> >> 8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
> >> it
> >> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
> >> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
> >> approach, to =A0safely remove the paint/stain?
>
> >> Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>
> >> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
> >> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
> >> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
> >> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
> >> nick a knife.
>
> >> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
> >> they did =A0Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
> >> MJ
>
> >Last stripping job I did -- a set of kitchen cabinet doors --
> >I used a card scraper to take off the old paint in record
> >time. =A0Scraper edges were just filed, not burnished.
>
> One Atta Boy coming atcha, Hasky.
>
> When I did my kitchen cabinet doors (1939 farmhouse in CA) back in the
> 80s, I used the same HF hot air gun I have now and a 2" putty knife.
> Yeah, I did it in the shop with the door open, and I'm sure there was
> plenty of lead in that old paint. (Please don't tell the EPA that I'm
> still alive.) They took just minor sanding after that. =A0Once you get
> the proper heat, the layers all stick together and come up at once at
> about 3' per minute. =A0I'll never waste that much time again on a door
> project. =A0It's quicker and not very much more expensive to build new
> ones. I faced them with luaun ply and Varathane, then deglossed and
> waxed with Johnson's Wax and 0000 steel wool.
>
> --
> The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas
> in the minds of energetic men of good will.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- J.=
Arthur Thomson- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
My *cheap* Eberle scraper took down the old latex twice as
fast as my $20 Chinese heat gun. Sure, I had to file it every
15 minutes, but that was a 30 second job.
On Jun 23, 6:34=A0pm, "Artemus" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > I want to thank all of you who responded. So it seems
> > that chemical stripping is the way to go.
>
> > I will be doing only what I need at a time, so it will
> > take me years to get through the wood.
>
> > Now, can anyone recommend a particular chem. stripper
> > that is safe. Woodcraft sells Star-10. Any good?
>
> > Thanks so much!
>
> > MJ
>
> If it were me, I'd start with one of the citrus type strippers
> as they are pretty enviro friendly and see what happens.
> If they don't do the job then it's time for the methylene chloride
> based ones. =A0I'd also strip all the boards at once so I could see
> what quality the wood is. =A0I don't see any advantage to leaving
> a bunch of boards with paint hiding the perfect piece for the
> current project.
> Art
Most of the environmentally friendly strippers I have used are slow
and marginally effective. Full meal deal Strip X or Stripeze usually
do the job.
Sorry. I am environmentally conscious too but time is worth
something.
RonB
I have done myself, use the chemical stripper, it used properly it will not
"sink "into the pores. You do not lose the patina of age when you strip but
you will if you plane. Besides if the paint has lead in it not only do you
have maintain a clean environment but the clean up of the area will take a
lot more time than just stripping it. plus no air borne lead to worry about.
len
On Jul 3, 10:59=A0am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 2 Jul 2010 19:25:32 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
> <[email protected]> wrote the following:
>
>
>
>
>
> >On Jun 27, 4:35 pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:46:07 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
> >> <[email protected]> wrote the following:
> >> >> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
> >> >> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>
> >> >> MJ
>
> >> >Last stripping job I did -- a set of kitchen cabinet doors --
> >> >I used a card scraper to take off the old paint in record
> >> >time. Scraper edges were just filed, not burnished.
>
> >> One Atta Boy coming atcha, Hasky.
>
> >My *cheap* Eberle scraper took down the old latex twice as
> >fast as my $20 Chinese heat gun. =A0Sure, I had to file it every
> >15 minutes, but that was a 30 second job.
>
> But will it do mouldings and other curves? =A0;)
>
> --
> The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas
> in the minds of energetic men of good will.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- J.=
Arthur Thomson- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Gooseneck or custom profile. Carved details are still
going to need methylene chloride, but you'll be needing
*much* less.
On Jun 22, 6:01=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Scored some recycled mahogany =A0today. =A0There was over 70 bd. ft of it
> ... 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
> is covered in paint.
There's lots of different paints, and they all come off differently.
I'd first try heat (hot air, or a fishtail tip on a propane torch) and
scraping, it
can work wonders on the right kind of paint.
Second best, use one of the 'safe' strippers (more expensive
than heat, but quite effective).
After most of the paint is off, remove all the fasteners and you
can complete the job with a card scraper. Save the sandpaper
for the refinishing steps. I'm assuming you won't use all
70 bd ft in one project, just dress up a few boards whenever
you need some.
On 23 Jun 2010 04:37:40 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote the following:
>"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in news:6c7ce51e-
>[email protected]:
>
>*snip*
>
>>
>> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
>> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
Planer. You use a planner to schedule the job. Planer blades dull
quickly on paint, so think that one through before using that plan.
>> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
>> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
>> nick a knife.
>>
>> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
>> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>>
>> MJ
>
>Chemicals can work wonders, but if you've got to use belt sander or
>planer to clean up the board anyway, why mess with chemicals? OTOH, a
>chemical stripper might require less material removal to get to bare
>wood.
I'd heat-strip it and then sand to suit. Harbor Fright $10 heat gun
or stripping box $$$$.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE HEAT STRIPPER OR SANDER IF PAINT COULD BE FROM
1975 OR EARLIER DATE. IT COULD CONTAIN LEAD, A DEADLY SUBSTANCE OF
WHICH ONE GRAIN COULD KILL YOUR ENTIRE TOWN AND THE SIX TOWNS
SURROUNDING IT! (Or so think some ecofreaks and the EPA. <shrug> )
http://www.eco-strip.com/ Oh, the ecofreaks put out a gentler heater
for "only" $500! <thud>
Hey, this kit is only $2,400!
http://www.silentpaintremover.com/spr/complete_system.htm
--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I want to thank all of you who responded. So it seems
> that chemical stripping is the way to go.
>
> I will be doing only what I need at a time, so it will
> take me years to get through the wood.
>
> Now, can anyone recommend a particular chem. stripper
> that is safe. Woodcraft sells Star-10. Any good?
>
> Thanks so much!
>
> MJ
If it were me, I'd start with one of the citrus type strippers
as they are pretty enviro friendly and see what happens.
If they don't do the job then it's time for the methylene chloride
based ones. I'd also strip all the boards at once so I could see
what quality the wood is. I don't see any advantage to leaving
a bunch of boards with paint hiding the perfect piece for the
current project.
Art
On 6/24/2010 7:51 AM, HeyBub wrote:
> Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
>
> Did you get this material from my ex-wife (who, while I was out of town,
> painted a walnut bookcase).
FREEZE Lady! Now slowly put down the paintbrush and back away from the furniture!
--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:c41419c4-22bd-4c7c-8d47-6242dd78a94e@r27g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
>
>> Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
>>
>
> Yes. White paint.
>
> MJ
>
I've seen white paint used on oak. It was the rage or something about 50
years ago.
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:c41419c4-22bd-4c7c-8d47-6242dd78a94e@r27g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
> >
> >> Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
> >>
> >
> > Yes. White paint.
> >
> > MJ
> >
>
> I've seen white paint used on oak. It was the rage or something about 50
> years ago.
>
Did the mahogany come from a boat? Might explain the paint. If so, it's very
likely heavily lead-based and may also have copper arsenate etc. in it. Using
a sander on this stuff would be a _very_ bad idea!
N
-----------------------------------------------------------
Posted using Android Newsgroup Downloader:
.... http://www.sb-software.com/android
-----------------------------------------------------------
"Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:c41419c4-22bd-4c7c-8d47-6242dd78a94e@r27g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
> >
> >> Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
> >>
> >
> > Yes. White paint.
> >
> > MJ
> >
>
> I've seen white paint used on oak. It was the rage or something about 50
> years ago.
>
My parents had a bedroom set back in the 50's that was fininshed
in what was called "Limed Oak". It looked like the pores were filled
with white pigment and then a light white wash coat was applied, then
a clear top coat of some clear sealant - probably laquer. It was ugly
even back then.
Art
"Artemus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Lobby Dosser" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:c41419c4-22bd-4c7c-8d47-6242dd78a94e@r27g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
>> >
>> >> Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
>> >>
>> >
>> > Yes. White paint.
>> >
>> > MJ
>> >
>>
>> I've seen white paint used on oak. It was the rage or something about 50
>> years ago.
>>
>
> My parents had a bedroom set back in the 50's that was fininshed
> in what was called "Limed Oak". It looked like the pores were filled
> with white pigment and then a light white wash coat was applied, then
> a clear top coat of some clear sealant - probably laquer. It was ugly
> even back then.
> Art
>
>
That's it!! Tried to fix a nice little chest of drawers that had been thusly
mangled. No hope whatsoever. :(
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:58:17 -0500, Steve Turner
<[email protected]> wrote the following:
>On 6/24/2010 7:51 AM, HeyBub wrote:
>> Somebody PAINTED mahogany?
>>
>> Did you get this material from my ex-wife (who, while I was out of town,
>> painted a walnut bookcase).
>
>FREEZE Lady! Now slowly put down the paintbrush and back away from the furniture!
One can only pray that there was a coat of finish on that thing before
the paint went on. Otherwise, it's in the pores and will never come
out. Ex? I'd have been a widower.
--
Peace of mind is that mental condition in which you have accepted the worst.
-- Lin Yutang
On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:46:07 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote the following:
>On Jun 22, 9:01 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>> Scored some recycled mahogany today. There was over 70 bd. ft of it
>> that I got for about $60. The pieces vary in size. The largest is over
>> 8 feet with a width of about 8 inches, shortest, 3 feet by 6.5. All of
>> it
>> is 3/4 thick. The problem is that one face of all the pieces
>> is covered in paint. While I will test for lead, what's the best
>> approach, to safely remove the paint/stain?
>>
>> Plan to use wood for projects: boxes, small cabinets, etc.
>>
>> I was thinking of just doing a chemical stripping, but someone told
>> me, just use a belt sander. I also thought about using a planner.
>> That stopped me because there could be nails and until
>> I break the wood down into usable pieces, I could certainly
>> nick a knife.
>>
>> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
>> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>>
>> MJ
>
>Last stripping job I did -- a set of kitchen cabinet doors --
>I used a card scraper to take off the old paint in record
>time. Scraper edges were just filed, not burnished.
One Atta Boy coming atcha, Hasky.
When I did my kitchen cabinet doors (1939 farmhouse in CA) back in the
80s, I used the same HF hot air gun I have now and a 2" putty knife.
Yeah, I did it in the shop with the door open, and I'm sure there was
plenty of lead in that old paint. (Please don't tell the EPA that I'm
still alive.) They took just minor sanding after that. Once you get
the proper heat, the layers all stick together and come up at once at
about 3' per minute. I'll never waste that much time again on a door
project. It's quicker and not very much more expensive to build new
ones. I faced them with luaun ply and Varathane, then deglossed and
waxed with Johnson's Wax and 0000 steel wool.
--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas
in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson
On Fri, 2 Jul 2010 19:25:32 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote the following:
>On Jun 27, 4:35 pm, Larry Jaques <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 19:46:07 -0700 (PDT), Father Haskell
>> <[email protected]> wrote the following:
>> >> Anyone with similar experiences, willing to chime in on what
>> >> they did Or just chime in anyway, this is the Internet.
>>
>> >> MJ
>>
>> >Last stripping job I did -- a set of kitchen cabinet doors --
>> >I used a card scraper to take off the old paint in record
>> >time. Scraper edges were just filed, not burnished.
>>
>> One Atta Boy coming atcha, Hasky.
>
>My *cheap* Eberle scraper took down the old latex twice as
>fast as my $20 Chinese heat gun. Sure, I had to file it every
>15 minutes, but that was a 30 second job.
But will it do mouldings and other curves? ;)
--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas
in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson