Joining suggestions: Guitar stand

On 11/20/2019 10:57 AM, Michael wrote:
> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>
> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's joined with manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way. Thoughts on this?
>
> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and price). Not sure.
>
Pocket hole screws, dowels, biscuits, and or Domino's will replace the
finger joint.

To those that cannot see the finger joint, zoom in where the horizontal
piece joins the vertical piece.

On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 12:23:56 -0700, Just Wondering <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 11/20/2019 11:14 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>> On 11/20/2019 12:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Michael <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's
>>>> joined with
>>>>> manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way.
>>>>> Thoughts on this?\
>>>
>>> Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut
>>> mortice.
>>>
>>> The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use
>>> cheaper narrow stock.    It would be best to use single wide piece
>>> for each side;  the way they did it, the front leg grain direction
>>> will make them weak.
>>>
>>> cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the
>>> sides would be the best joinery method.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or
>>>> hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and
>>>> price).  Not sure.
>>>
>>> Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth
>>> douglas fir,
>>> properly selected, would match the grain and coloration  of many older
>>> acoustic
>>> guitars).  DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.
>>>
>>
>> Almost any stable wood would work fine. As for joinery, if I were doing
>> it and really gave a rat's about what the recipient(s) thought of it I'd
>> join the vertical pieces to the horizontal/foot pieces with deep mortise
>> and tenon joints and the cross piece to the verticals with through M&T
>> joints with contrasting wedges for show and so the recipient might
>> appreciate that some work went into it. Just me, of course...
>
>If I was doing it, I'd choose a design more like one of these:
>http://southmtwoodworks.com/

And I'd advise reading the reviews on the first one before going with
that design--it has some issues.

On 11/20/2019 12:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> Michael <[email protected]> writes:
>> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>>
>> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's joined with
>>> manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way. Thoughts on this?\
>
> Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut mortice.
>
> The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use
> cheaper narrow stock. It would be best to use single wide piece
> for each side; the way they did it, the front leg grain direction
> will make them weak.
>
> cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the
> sides would be the best joinery method.
>
>>
>> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and price). Not sure.
>
> Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth douglas fir,
> properly selected, would match the grain and coloration of many older acoustic
> guitars). DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.
>

Almost any stable wood would work fine. As for joinery, if I were doing it
and really gave a rat's about what the recipient(s) thought of it I'd join
the vertical pieces to the horizontal/foot pieces with deep mortise and
tenon joints and the cross piece to the verticals with through M&T joints
with contrasting wedges for show and so the recipient might appreciate that
some work went into it. Just me, of course...

On 11/20/2019 2:23 PM, Just Wondering wrote:
> On 11/20/2019 11:14 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>> On 11/20/2019 12:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>> Michael <[email protected]> writes:
>>>> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's
>>>> joined with
>>>>> manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way.
>>>>> Thoughts on this?\
>>>
>>> Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut
>>> mortice.
>>>
>>> The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use
>>> cheaper narrow stock.    It would be best to use single wide piece
>>> for each side;  the way they did it, the front leg grain direction
>>> will make them weak.
>>>
>>> cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the
>>> sides would be the best joinery method.
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or
>>>> hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and price).
>>>> Not sure.
>>>
>>> Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth
>>> douglas fir,
>>> properly selected, would match the grain and coloration  of many older
>>> acoustic
>>> guitars).  DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.
>>>
>>
>> Almost any stable wood would work fine. As for joinery, if I were doing
>> it and really gave a rat's about what the recipient(s) thought of it I'd
>> join the vertical pieces to the horizontal/foot pieces with deep mortise
>> and tenon joints and the cross piece to the verticals with through M&T
>> joints with contrasting wedges for show and so the recipient might
>> appreciate that some work went into it. Just me, of course...
>
> If I was doing it, I'd choose a design more like one of these:
> http://southmtwoodworks.com/
>
With the bend, it does flow much more pleasantly. But now I'm wondering why
the joins between the "legs" and the vertical are so abrupt. A Maloof-like
join would have been superb (although the amount of work added to do that
would jack up the price immeasurably).

On 11/20/2019 5:01 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 12:23:56 -0700, Just Wondering <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 11/20/2019 11:14 AM, John McGaw wrote:
>>> On 11/20/2019 12:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>>>> Michael <[email protected]> writes:
>>>>> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's
>>>>> joined with
>>>>>> manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way.
>>>>>> Thoughts on this?\
>>>>
>>>> Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut
>>>> mortice.
>>>>
>>>> The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use
>>>> cheaper narrow stock.    It would be best to use single wide piece
>>>> for each side;  the way they did it, the front leg grain direction
>>>> will make them weak.
>>>>
>>>> cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the
>>>> sides would be the best joinery method.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or
>>>>> hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and
>>>>> price).  Not sure.
>>>>
>>>> Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth
>>>> douglas fir,
>>>> properly selected, would match the grain and coloration  of many older
>>>> acoustic
>>>> guitars).  DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Almost any stable wood would work fine. As for joinery, if I were doing
>>> it and really gave a rat's about what the recipient(s) thought of it I'd
>>> join the vertical pieces to the horizontal/foot pieces with deep mortise
>>> and tenon joints and the cross piece to the verticals with through M&T
>>> joints with contrasting wedges for show and so the recipient might
>>> appreciate that some work went into it. Just me, of course...
>>
>> If I was doing it, I'd choose a design more like one of these:
>> http://southmtwoodworks.com/
>
> And I'd advise reading the reviews on the first one before going with
> that design--it has some issues.

Well, I did say a design "more like one of" those (than the
Taylor stand). I'd actually design my own. It would look
more like those at Southmtwoodworks than the Taylor stand.

On 11/20/2019 10:57 AM, Michael wrote:
> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>
> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's joined with manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way. Thoughts on this?
>
> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and price). Not sure.
>


Pocket hole screws, dowels, biscuits, and or Domino's will replace the
finger joint.

To those that cannot see the finger joint, zoom in where the horizontal
piece joins the vertical piece.

On Wednesday, November 20, 2019 at 6:01:49 PM UTC-6, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Wed, 20 Nov 2019 12:23:56 -0700, Just Wondering <[email protected]> wrote:
>=20
> >On 11/20/2019 11:14 AM, John McGaw wrote:
> >> On 11/20/2019 12:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> >>> Michael <[email protected]> writes:
> >>>> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-=
stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany=20
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it'=
s=20
> >>>> joined with
> >>>>> manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way.=
=20
> >>>>> Thoughts on this?\
> >>>
> >>> Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut=
=20
> >>> mortice.
> >>>
> >>> The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use
> >>> cheaper narrow stock.=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 It would be best to use singl=
e wide piece
> >>> for each side;=C2=A0 the way they did it, the front leg grain directi=
on
> >>> will make them weak.
> >>>
> >>> cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the
> >>> sides would be the best joinery method.
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak o=
r=20
> >>>> hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and=20
> >>>> price).=C2=A0 Not sure.
> >>>
> >>> Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth=
=20
> >>> douglas fir,
> >>> properly selected, would match the grain and coloration=C2=A0 of many=
older=20
> >>> acoustic
> >>> guitars).=C2=A0 DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.
> >>>
> >>=20
> >> Almost any stable wood would work fine. As for joinery, if I were doin=
g=20
> >> it and really gave a rat's about what the recipient(s) thought of it I=
'd=20
> >> join the vertical pieces to the horizontal/foot pieces with deep morti=
se=20
> >> and tenon joints and the cross piece to the verticals with through M&T=
=20
> >> joints with contrasting wedges for show and so the recipient might=20
> >> appreciate that some work went into it. Just me, of course...
> >
> >If I was doing it, I'd choose a design more like one of these:
> >http://southmtwoodworks.com/
>=20
> And I'd advise reading the reviews on the first one before going with
> that design--it has some issues.

Thanks for all the thoughts on this -- Scott, John, J Clarke. I did read th=
e reviews, after you suggested it. I appreciate it! It appears that there a=
re four places where a guitar can get dinged on this stand. I will make one=
and see if I can move the rubber supports to better protect or maybe attac=
h a strip, if it doesn't look too bad, on those parts.=20

Much appreciated!

On 11/20/2019 11:14 AM, John McGaw wrote:
> On 11/20/2019 12:50 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> Michael <[email protected]> writes:
>>> https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's
>>> joined with
>>>> manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way.
>>>> Thoughts on this?\
>>
>> Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut
>> mortice.
>>
>> The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use
>> cheaper narrow stock.    It would be best to use single wide piece
>> for each side;  the way they did it, the front leg grain direction
>> will make them weak.
>>
>> cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the
>> sides would be the best joinery method.
>>
>>>
>>> Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or
>>> hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and
>>> price).  Not sure.
>>
>> Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth
>> douglas fir,
>> properly selected, would match the grain and coloration  of many older
>> acoustic
>> guitars).  DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.
>>
>
> Almost any stable wood would work fine. As for joinery, if I were doing
> it and really gave a rat's about what the recipient(s) thought of it I'd
> join the vertical pieces to the horizontal/foot pieces with deep mortise
> and tenon joints and the cross piece to the verticals with through M&T
> joints with contrasting wedges for show and so the recipient might
> appreciate that some work went into it. Just me, of course...

If I was doing it, I'd choose a design more like one of these:
http://southmtwoodworks.com/

Michael <[email protected]> writes:
>https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SapeleGTRstd--taylor-guitar-stand-natural-sapele-and-mahogany
>
>I'm going to make a few of these for gifts this year. I see that it's joined with
>> manufactured finger joints, but I wonder if there's a better way. Thoughts on this?\

Actually, it's joined with screws through the back of a sloppily cut mortice.

The side pieces are built up using a glue joint so they could use
cheaper narrow stock. It would be best to use single wide piece
for each side; the way they did it, the front leg grain direction
will make them weak.

cutting tenons on the backpiece to fit matching mortices on the
sides would be the best joinery method.

>
>Also, it's made with sapele and mohagany, but I'm thinking red oak or hard maple might work just as well for strength and looks (and price). Not sure.

Any hard or softwood would work fine in this application (old-growth douglas fir,
properly selected, would match the grain and coloration of many older acoustic
guitars). DF with Dalbergia Nigra would also be nice.