I'm in the process of building some floor to ceiling bookcases. The
cases will (ideally) have shared faceframe stiles, that is, the tall
vertical faceframe pieces will span two vertical carcass pieces.
My question is how should I attach these faceframes to the carcasses?
The bookshelves, once constructed, will be 8.5'x9' so I need to either
install the faceframes in place or attach parts of them prior to
installation.
I am using pocket holes & screws to clamp the faceframes together and
can use pocket holes on the outside of some of the carcasses to attach
the , but can't use them to attach both sides of the shared stiles
because the cases will be butted together.
I could use biscuits, but can't figure out how to clamp the faceframe to
the casing.
Am I stuck using finish nails? I was hoping to avoid them as inevitably
you still see the filling.
I'm open to any/all ideas. Thanks for the help.
~Mark.
Are the shelf heights adjustable? If so, what system are you using -
series of holes? If so, I can think of a jig, of sorts. Use the front
series of holes to hold blocks and clamp the frame to them. Even if not
using holes, if you temp screwed in some blocks behind the face frame to
the carcass sides with the screw holes right behind the face frame, would
they be easier to fill in a non-noticable way then would the nail holes in
the face frame? I can also think of variations on this, depending on how
many (small) clamps you have -- all entailing filling small holes right
behind the face frame so you'd almost have to stick your head inside the
bookcase to see them.
On 08 Aug 2004 12:30:01 EDT, Woody <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm in the process of building some floor to ceiling bookcases. The
>cases will (ideally) have shared faceframe stiles, that is, the tall
>vertical faceframe pieces will span two vertical carcass pieces.
>
>My question is how should I attach these faceframes to the carcasses?
>
>The bookshelves, once constructed, will be 8.5'x9' so I need to either
>install the faceframes in place or attach parts of them prior to
>installation.
>
>I am using pocket holes & screws to clamp the faceframes together and
>can use pocket holes on the outside of some of the carcasses to attach
>the , but can't use them to attach both sides of the shared stiles
>because the cases will be butted together.
>
>I could use biscuits, but can't figure out how to clamp the faceframe to
>the casing.
>
>Am I stuck using finish nails? I was hoping to avoid them as inevitably
>you still see the filling.
>
>I'm open to any/all ideas. Thanks for the help.
>
>~Mark.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Henry E Schaffer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > >I use a blind nailer from Lee Valley Tools. When finished, it's virtually
> > >invisible to the naked eye. It take a little practice on a piece of
> scrap,
> > >but it's not difficult to learn.
> > >
> www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=32683&category=1,41182
> >
> > It looked so neat-o in the catalog - I'm glad to hear that it actually
> > works! :-)
>
> Actually, I have two of the chisel parts (it's nice to have a fully
> sharpened one on hand) and one of the guide parts. For those of you
> considering one of these, I've only ever once come across one problem. It
> works on veneered plywood of the better quality (does that make sense?). As
> you know, plywood is made up of layers of criss-crossed layers to enhance
> stability.
>
> One type of veneered wood that I'd bought, had such a thin first layer, that
> the shaving raised by the blind nailer caught too much of the opposite
> angled second layer and it was extremely difficulty to properly raise the
> shaving. But, that was veneered plywood that I stopped buying from that
> particular dealer and I haven't experience the same problem since. Other
> than that, it works extremely well in softwood and hardwood. Haven't tried
> it in many of the more exotic hardwoods and there might possibly be some
> problems there due to the properties of some types of wood, but that remains
> to be seen.
A lot of good advice here, but the key point of analyis is as follows:
If SWMBO does not notice, then the cabinet maker did a beautiful job.
End of story. If SWMBO does not like it, then the comment, "see why
it takes me a little longer to do quality work. You wouldn't see nails
like that in my work"
Either way, a win.
George
igor wrote:
> Are the shelf heights adjustable? If so, what system are you using -
> series of holes? If so, I can think of a jig, of sorts. Use the front
> series of holes to hold blocks and clamp the frame to them. Even if not
> using holes, if you temp screwed in some blocks behind the face frame to
> the carcass sides with the screw holes right behind the face frame, would
> they be easier to fill in a non-noticable way then would the nail holes in
> the face frame? I can also think of variations on this, depending on how
> many (small) clamps you have -- all entailing filling small holes right
> behind the face frame so you'd almost have to stick your head inside the
> bookcase to see them.
>
Actually, about 5 minutes after I posted, this was a solution I came up
with. I can either screw or pin blocks into the front holes and clamp
faceframes, alligned with biscuits, to them. I'm going to give this a
try. Thanks.
I've seen some efforts that pocket-holed from just behind the face
frame, but particularly with plywood, tear out would be a problem.
~Mark.
"Henry E Schaffer" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >I use a blind nailer from Lee Valley Tools. When finished, it's virtually
> >invisible to the naked eye. It take a little practice on a piece of
scrap,
> >but it's not difficult to learn.
> >
www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=32683&category=1,41182
>
> It looked so neat-o in the catalog - I'm glad to hear that it actually
> works! :-)
Actually, I have two of the chisel parts (it's nice to have a fully
sharpened one on hand) and one of the guide parts. For those of you
considering one of these, I've only ever once come across one problem. It
works on veneered plywood of the better quality (does that make sense?). As
you know, plywood is made up of layers of criss-crossed layers to enhance
stability.
One type of veneered wood that I'd bought, had such a thin first layer, that
the shaving raised by the blind nailer caught too much of the opposite
angled second layer and it was extremely difficulty to properly raise the
shaving. But, that was veneered plywood that I stopped buying from that
particular dealer and I haven't experience the same problem since. Other
than that, it works extremely well in softwood and hardwood. Haven't tried
it in many of the more exotic hardwoods and there might possibly be some
problems there due to the properties of some types of wood, but that remains
to be seen.
In article <[email protected]>,
Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
>"Woody" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>the casing.
>>
>> Am I stuck using finish nails? I was hoping to avoid them as inevitably
>> you still see the filling.
>
>I use a blind nailer from Lee Valley Tools. When finished, it's virtually
>invisible to the naked eye. It take a little practice on a piece of scrap,
>but it's not difficult to learn.
>
>www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=32683&category=1,41182
It looked so neat-o in the catalog - I'm glad to hear that it actually
works! :-)
--
--henry schaffer
hes _AT_ ncsu _DOT_ edu
On 08 Aug 2004 12:30:01 EDT, Woody <[email protected]> wrote:
>I'm in the process of building some floor to ceiling bookcases. The
>cases will (ideally) have shared faceframe stiles, that is, the tall
>vertical faceframe pieces will span two vertical carcass pieces.
>
>My question is how should I attach these faceframes to the carcasses?
>
>The bookshelves, once constructed, will be 8.5'x9' so I need to either
>install the faceframes in place or attach parts of them prior to
>installation.
>
>I am using pocket holes & screws to clamp the faceframes together and
>can use pocket holes on the outside of some of the carcasses to attach
>the , but can't use them to attach both sides of the shared stiles
>because the cases will be butted together.
>
>I could use biscuits, but can't figure out how to clamp the faceframe to
>the casing.
>
>Am I stuck using finish nails? I was hoping to avoid them as inevitably
>you still see the filling.
>
>I'm open to any/all ideas. Thanks for the help.
>
>~Mark.
depending on the size and shape of the room you could use a spring
stick to clamp the face frame while the glue and biscuits do their
thing. rip a springy stick about 10% or 15% longer than the distance
from the face frame to the opposite wall. you'll need to play with the
dimensions of the rip to get a springiness that works for you. use a
rolled rag or something like that between the ends of the stick and
the wall and the face frame to keep from dinging up your finished
surfaces. you may need several, so it's a good idea to do a full dry
run with the table saw at hand to adjust your spring sticks.
"Woody" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
the casing.
>
> Am I stuck using finish nails? I was hoping to avoid them as inevitably
> you still see the filling.
I use a blind nailer from Lee Valley Tools. When finished, it's virtually
invisible to the naked eye. It take a little practice on a piece of scrap,
but it's not difficult to learn.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=1&page=32683&category=1,41182