Trent wrote:
> I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I usually
> use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?
TitebondII is a PVA glue. This type of glue is difficult to repair if
the joint breaks again in the future (which it almost certainly will).
Ideally you should dismantle the loose joints, figure out why they're
loose, and then repair them.
You might consider a more easily repairable glue like hide glue. Liquid
hide glue (available under the Titebond brand, among others) should do
the job, although hot hide glue is somewhat better under very high
relative humidity.
I suggest reading "How To Repair Furniture Joints " at
"http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/repair.shtml".
Chris
B A R R Y wrote:
> Trent wrote:
>
>> I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
>> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend?
>
>
> Chair Loc on the shrunken tenon.
This will work once or twice, but then you're hosed because you can't
re-glue it without scraping/sanding off all the glue. Hide glue is
reversible and new hide glue will stick to old hide glue.
Chris
Hide... it's reversable and you want reversable for a chair, because you
can't really fix a single chair joint without disassembling half the chair.
The titebond folks make a hide glue in a bottle so you don't have to fuss
with double-boilers and such.
-Steve
"Trent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I usually
> use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Trent wrote:
> I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I usually
> use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?
The yellow carpenter's glues (Titebond I, II, and III and competitors)
as well as the white glues (Elmers) work best on clean new wood. Old
chair joints have a layer of old failed glue that is hard to remove
completely.
I'd disasemble and clean the joint best as possible and then use two
part epoxy. Epoxy is the best stuff for stick-to-cruddy-surface duty.
Hardened, it's as strong or stronger than anything else. It is gap
filling, unlike most glues.
--
David J. Starr
Blog: www.newsnorthwoods.blogspot.com
On Mar 17, 4:11=A0pm, Trent <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I usually
> use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?
Your best bet is hide glue if you have access to it.
You can use titebond or any yellow glue, but all surface must be
sanded and the old glue removed.
Chances are the old glue is hide glue and pva or yellow glue will not
stick to the old hide glue.
Randy
http://nokeswoodworks.com
Information for the woodwroker
On Mar 17, 5:11 pm, Trent <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I usually
> use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?
Hide glue.
The real stuff, melted in a glue pot and applied warm
is the original hot melt glue and has been used since
the time of the Pharohs. It might not last as long other
glues, but it can be repaired innumerable times--other
glues are very hard to reverse, clean out of the joint,
and reglue.
Hide glue is also available now in a liquid form in
a squeeze bottle making it as easy to use as
any other glue.
The great violin makers of Cremona, Italy used hide
glue and their violins have been disassembled and
reassembled numerous times over the centuries.
--
FF
Trent wrote:
> I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I
> usually
> use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?
Are these real antiques that have significant collector value, or are
they just old? If they're real antiques then as others have
suggested, hide glue is likely the best way to go--full reversibility
is more important than any other consideration. There are other fully
revesible glues available--Paraloid B72 and AthenaTech "Magiglue" are
two examples--but none have the track record of hide glue, which also
has the advantage of authenticity--it is likely what was used for the
original bond.
Using it though is going to require complete disassembly and likely
cleaning the joints.
If they're just "old chairs" of no particular value and you can
disassemble them and clean off the old glue, then there are other
options.
There is no perfect "chair glue"--the ones with enough flex to not
loosen after a few humidity cycles also have enough flex that the
chair seems wobbly, while the ones that give you a stiff chair tend to
loosen up over time. Bruce Hoadley described an experiment with
silicone caulk in Fine Woodworking #21
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011021068.pdf (note, you
need to subscribe to the Fine Woodworking site to see that one) that
resulting in joints that lasted a long time but the chair was
permanently wobbly. One fellow reports very good success with Gorilla
Glue http://www.homediscussion.com/showthread.php?t=102281 but others
disagree. Personally I've been experimenting with G2 Epoxy
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=20011&cat=1,110,42965
but my oldest project with it is less than a year old so can't say if
it really does anything good or not. 3M 5200 might be worth
consideration--it makes a very strong bond (as caulk goes) but is
about twice as hard as silicone caulk.
Note that if you are using G2 Epoxy or 3M 5200, the chances of getting
the joint apart again (unless it comes apart on its own) without
destroying the chair in the process range from slim to none.
If you're just looking for a quick fix, Chair Doctor
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30261&cat=1,110 works.
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 14:11:18 -0700, Trent <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
>loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I usually
>use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?
I am currently doing some repair work on wooden chairs (replacing
tenons, removing old glue, etc.) I am using Elmers Wood glue, but I
would trust any brand-name yellow wood glue. Some of the mortises
are very deep and in that case I allow a full 24+ hours in the clamps
and put a 25-watt bulb underneath to help the curing process.
Use hide glue on an antique. Hide glue can be disassembled by wetting it an
reassembled. It's the type of glue that should have been used originally
and is what you should use again, so the piece can be re-repaired 25 years
from now.
"Trent" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I am in the process of gluing up some old oak chairs that have come
> loose at the joints. What type of glue would you recommend? I usually
> use titebond II for all my glue ups, is this good for chairs?