I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
this picture:
http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail.190210453_std.jpg
Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
Wit's end here!
Cheers
> > Won't fit. =A0No riser attachment :-(
>
> Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know =A0:)
>
> Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the tabl=
e
> and shove it into the blade at an angle. =A0You know, taper. =A0Or use a
> hatchet.
The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
more challenging!
On Mar 19, 10:15=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
> I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
> of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
> shortened rails. =A0The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
> 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
> The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
> when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
> 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
> - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
> this picture:
>
> http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail...
>
> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? =A0I've
> tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! =A0Remember that not
> only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> correctly. =A0Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> Wit's end here!
>
> Cheers
Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
rail. Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
unless you have a special ripping chain. Cutting parallel (or mostly
so, except for the bevel angle) does work. You'll find that it may
load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
have to clear them out frequently.
Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.
John Martin
On Mar 19, 9:19=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Taper cut on a band saw.
Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:82e64a5e-ba64-4ec0-8038-18b3bad7c77f@q23g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
> I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
> I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
> of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
> shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
> 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
> The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
> when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
> 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
> - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
> this picture:
>
> http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail.1
> 90210453_std.jpg
>
> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
> tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
> only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> Wit's end here!
>
> Cheers
Perhaps a jig made of two pieces of wood with parallel faces attached at
the appropriate angle to another piece that holds your wood in place.
The saw could then reference off the parallel faces of the jig and give
your tapers. Turn the wood over to finish the joint.
Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.
"[email protected]" wrote:
<snip>
> - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails
> of
> this picture:
>
> http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail.190210453_std.jpg
>
> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to?
-----------------------------------------
I'd layout a chalk line for the taper, then grab my 9" right angle
sander/grinder equipped with a 16 grit disk and have at it.
Works on fiberglass, wooden fence rails are a piece of cake.
Couple of minutes on each end and it's time for a beer.
Lew
"Larry Jaques" wrote:
> Well, if we're getting (Ar Ar Ar) POWERful here, I'd grab my 4-1/4"
> grinder with the Lancelot blade on it and carve 'em out with the
> little chainsaw it uses.
-------------------------
A 4" right angle equipped with 24 grit disks are for detail work. Adds
maybe 1 minute per surface.
I buy in 100 pc quantities.
4", 16 grit disks are available, but then you only get about 5-6 rocks
per disk.
DAMHIKT.
Lew
Flat Draw Knife.
They cut and split faster than you think. Could pre-shape and finalize.
Martin
[email protected] wrote:
> I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
> I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
> of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
> shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
> 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
> The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
> when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
> 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
> - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
> this picture:
>
> http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail.190210453_std.jpg
>
> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
> tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
> only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> Wit's end here!
>
> Cheers
On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 13:42:42 -0700, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"[email protected]" wrote:
>
><snip>
>> - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails
>> of
>> this picture:
>>
>> http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail.190210453_std.jpg
>>
>> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to?
>-----------------------------------------
>
>I'd layout a chalk line for the taper, then grab my 9" right angle
>sander/grinder equipped with a 16 grit disk and have at it.
>
>Works on fiberglass, wooden fence rails are a piece of cake.
>
>Couple of minutes on each end and it's time for a beer.
I didn't know that fences drank. Interesting.
Well, if we're getting (Ar Ar Ar) POWERful here, I'd grab my 4-1/4"
grinder with the Lancelot blade on it and carve 'em out with the
little chainsaw it uses.
--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler
On Mar 19, 11:21=A0am, John Martin <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 19, 10:15=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
> > I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
> > of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
> > shortened rails. =A0The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measur=
e
> > 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
> > The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
> > when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
> > 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
> > - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
> > this picture:
>
> >http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail...
>
> > Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? =A0I've
> > tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> > I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> > Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! =A0Remember that not
> > only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> > plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> > correctly. =A0Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> > Wit's end here!
>
> > Cheers
>
> Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
> rail. =A0Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
> unless you have a special ripping chain. =A0Cutting parallel (or mostly
> so, except for the bevel angle) does work. =A0You'll find that it may
> load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
> have to clear them out frequently.
>
> Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.
>
> John Martin
Why didn't I think of that? I will try this, thanks.
On 3/19/2010 9:15 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Wit's end here!
Have you tried to rent a portable band saw?
I've seen them with cutting depths from 4 3/4 to 6".
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
> > tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> > I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> > Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
> > only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> > plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> > correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> > Wit's end here!
> When it comes down to brass tacks the hatchet wins out. I tried every
> power tool you could think of and the
> hatchet is the tool that wins hands-down. It's work. But it's good work.
I'd be inclined to use a rip hand saw... but a sharp hatchet or axe would
work also. In either case the skill of the user will influence the results.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Mar 19, 9:19 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>> Taper cut on a band saw.
>
> Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(
Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know :)
Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the table
and shove it into the blade at an angle. You know, taper. Or use a
hatchet.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > > Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
> > > tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> > > I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> > > Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
> > > only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> > > plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> > > correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> > > Wit's end here!
>
> > When it comes down to brass tacks the hatchet wins out. I tried every
> > power tool you could think of and the
> > hatchet is the tool that wins hands-down. It's work. But it's good work.
>
> I'd be inclined to use a rip hand saw... but a sharp hatchet or axe would
> work also. In either case the skill of the user will influence the results.
Thread from 2010 guys.
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>> > Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(
>>
>> Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know :)
>>
>> Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the
>> tabl
> e
>> and shove it into the blade at an angle. You know, taper. Or use a
>> hatchet.
>
> The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
> And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
> the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
> or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
> hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
> more challenging!
Temporarily nail a plank to the bottom to serve as a reference. Then cut
them on a bandsaw with the plank resting flat on the table. It may be
easier to cut both ends fresh using the plan than to try to nail a plank
square with an existing end.
Doug White
On Mar 19, 11:21=A0am, John Martin <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mar 19, 10:15=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
> > I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
> > of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
> > shortened rails. =A0The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measur=
e
> > 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
> > The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
> > when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
> > 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
> > - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
> > this picture:
>
> >http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail...
>
> > Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? =A0I've
> > tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> > I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> > Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! =A0Remember that not
> > only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> > plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> > correctly. =A0Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> > Wit's end here!
>
> > Cheers
>
> Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
> rail. =A0Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
> unless you have a special ripping chain. =A0Cutting parallel (or mostly
> so, except for the bevel angle) does work. =A0You'll find that it may
> load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
> have to clear them out frequently.
>
> Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.
>
> John Martin
Tried this, with the bar parallel to the length of the rail and it
worked great. Just a few "touch up" strokes to make the very tips fit
in end posts and that's all there was to it. Thanks.
And thanks for all the other ideas, although I was trying to avoid
buying & learning a new tool (adze, drawknife, have an angle grinder
but not the 16 (?) grit sandpaper and/or chainsaw grinder attachment,
etc.) if possible. Fence alone nearly put me in the poorhouse.
Cheers
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 21:26:33 -0700, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" wrote:
>
>> Well, if we're getting (Ar Ar Ar) POWERful here, I'd grab my 4-1/4"
>> grinder with the Lancelot blade on it and carve 'em out with the
>> little chainsaw it uses.
>-------------------------
>A 4" right angle equipped with 24 grit disks are for detail work. Adds
>maybe 1 minute per surface.
>
>I buy in 100 pc quantities.
>
>4", 16 grit disks are available, but then you only get about 5-6 rocks
>per disk.
Yeah, I call that crap "boulder paper".
>DAMHIKT.
Grok that. _But_ you missed my reference to the Lancelot.
www.katools.com
--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:82e64a5e-ba64-4ec0-8038-18b3bad7c77f@q23g2000yqd.googlegroups.com...
> I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
> I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
> of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
> shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
> 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
> The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
> when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
> 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
> - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
> this picture:
>
> http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail.190210453_std.jpg
>
> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
> tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
> only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> Wit's end here!
>
> Cheers
Taper cut on a band saw.
On Mar 19, 8:15=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
about trimming ends of a rail to fit mortises...
> hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
> more challenging!
Support the work on sawhorses, hold the first end vertical and then
mark off (with chalk or crayon) the second end using a level.
Chop to the mark.
A hatchet is one tool, the oldtimers might have had an adze that would
do
the job a tad easier... Roy Underhill did some adze-and-axe shows
(The Woodwright's Shop) and heavy timbers sure looked like fun!
> Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
> tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
> I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
> Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
> only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
> plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
> correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
> Wit's end here!
When it comes down to brass tacks the hatchet wins out. I tried every power tool you could think of and the hatchet is the tool that wins hands-down. It's work. But it's good work.
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/
>
> Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
> America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
> <bseg>
That sucker might eat clean through your steel toe boots! A regular
Langolier.
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 14:09:51 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/
>>
>> Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
>> America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
>> <bseg>
>
>That does seem to carry a negative connotation doesn't it... ;~)
>
>Maybe I'm missing something, but this thing looks like a kick back
>nightmare... need to have Saw Stop technology added to this to make it safe
>from the lawyers. ;~)
"Log Wizard: Making Standard Chainsaws Look Like Boy Scout Toys!"
--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler
"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/
>
> Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
> America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
> <bseg>
That does seem to carry a negative connotation doesn't it... ;~)
Maybe I'm missing something, but this thing looks like a kick back
nightmare... need to have Saw Stop technology added to this to make it safe
from the lawyers. ;~)
John
On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:33:41 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mar 19, 11:21 am, John Martin <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Mar 19, 10:15 am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
>> > I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
>> > of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
>> > shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
>> > 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
>> > The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
>> > when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
>> > 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
>> > - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
>> > this picture:
>>
>> >http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail...
>>
>> > Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
>> > tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
>> > I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
>> > Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
>> > only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
>> > plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
>> > correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
>> > Wit's end here!
>>
>> > Cheers
>>
>> Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
>> rail. Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
>> unless you have a special ripping chain. Cutting parallel (or mostly
>> so, except for the bevel angle) does work. You'll find that it may
>> load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
>> have to clear them out frequently.
>>
>> Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.
>>
>> John Martin
>
>Why didn't I think of that? I will try this, thanks.
...chainsaws are *very* adaptable devices, when you finish your long
cuts you can modify/touch-up using the saw perpendicular to the cut
you're working on and lightly (heh) letting the blade take off excess
material with little risk...
cg
On Sun, 21 Mar 2010 16:19:42 -0700, the infamous "LDosser"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>"Larry Jaques" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/
>>
>> Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
>> America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
>> <bseg>
>
>
>That sucker might eat clean through your steel toe boots! A regular
>Langolier.
<vbg> Great movie/MEAN suckahs!
--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler
On Sat, 20 Mar 2010 15:57:28 -0400, the infamous "John Grossbohlin"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/
Wow, John. These must be good items. They've got the Handyman Club of
America "Member Tested and Recommended" logo there. Gee, whillikers!
<bseg>
--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler
On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:15:48 -0700 (PDT), the infamous
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
>I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
>of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
>shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
>4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
>The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
>when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
>2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
>- it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
>this picture:
>
>http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail.190210453_std.jpg
>
>Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
>tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
>I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
>Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
>only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
>plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
>correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
>Wit's end here!
Neanderthals everywhere are looking at each other wondering why you
haven't sat down at your shave horse with a drawknife and hacked those
things out in minutes.
Normites are wondering why your bandsaw is going unused.
DO I make myself clear, soldier? Have at it!
P.S: I've seen machetes wielded well for this task, too.
--
Adults are obsolete children. --Dr. Seuss (Theodore Geisel, 1904-1991)
--
On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 22:36:19 -0700, the infamous Chasgroh
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Fri, 19 Mar 2010 12:33:41 -0700 (PDT), "[email protected]"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Mar 19, 11:21 am, John Martin <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On Mar 19, 10:15 am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> > I'm putting up a split rail fence and am near the end of the project.
>>> > I tried to plan the project to use full length rails for the majority
>>> > of the fence run but I have about 5 locations where there must be
>>> > shortened rails. The rails come as full 4x4's - they actually measure
>>> > 4" x 4", and the ends have 2 tapers on each end that form the tenons.
>>> > The oddball thing is that the tapers are cut across 2 faces so that
>>> > when the tenon sits in the mortise, the rail is situated where you see
>>> > 2 faces of the rail, as if it's sitting on one corner, and not a face
>>> > - it's sort of discernable in the upper left and lower right rails of
>>> > this picture:
>>>
>>> >http://allstarfencedeck.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/split_rail...
>>>
>>> > Now, my question is, I need to cut several of these - how to? I've
>>> > tried a chainsaw and it is not very good at making tapered rip cuts.
>>> > I've also tried: scrub plane, handsaw, circular saw, recipro saw.
>>> > Mostly I'm making long hacked up toothpicks - Ha! Remember that not
>>> > only do they have to be tapered, but the tenons have to be in the same
>>> > plane as each other from end to end, in order for the rail to fit
>>> > correctly. Also, the rails are not always straight & mostly aren't.
>>> > Wit's end here!
>>>
>>> > Cheers
>>>
>>> Try the chainsaw again, but with the bar parallel to the length of the
>>> rail. Cutting across endgrain with a chainsaw doesn't work very well
>>> unless you have a special ripping chain. Cutting parallel (or mostly
>>> so, except for the bevel angle) does work. You'll find that it may
>>> load up with long shavings, rather than short chips, but you'll just
>>> have to clear them out frequently.
>>>
>>> Lacking a chainsaw, an adze would do a good job of it.
>>>
>>> John Martin
>>
>>Why didn't I think of that? I will try this, thanks.
>
>...chainsaws are *very* adaptable devices, when you finish your long
>cuts you can modify/touch-up using the saw perpendicular to the cut
>you're working on and lightly (heh) letting the blade take off excess
>material with little risk...
You can also drill holes in the bar and stick long handles on 'em to
help guide the tip for more precise carving. Be sure to use a guard
(large tsuba) to keep your hand away from the blade if you do that.
--
If we attend continually and promptly to the little that we can do, we
shall ere long be surprised to find how little remains that we cannot do.
-- Samuel Butler
"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> > Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(
>>
>> Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know :)
>>
>> Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the
>> table
>> and shove it into the blade at an angle. You know, taper. Or use a
>> hatchet.
>
> The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
> And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
> the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
> or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
> hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
> more challenging.
>
> Rough it with an axe, finish with a power hand plane. Use a level to get
> both ends in the same plane.
The alternative might be a Log Wizard... http://logwizard.com/
There is one on Craig's List
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/tls/1652772152.html which is how I found
out about them today!
John
"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > Won't fit. No riser attachment :-(
>
> Uhhh...you aren't standing the things on end, you know :)
>
> Surely, your saw is big enough so you can lay a 4x4 rail flat on the table
> and shove it into the blade at an angle. You know, taper. Or use a
> hatchet.
The cuts are not made on a flat face. They are made across 2 faces.
And so they don't fit under it since it must ride in on the V part of
the timber. When it is stood on that edge, the height is right at 6"
or more, remember I said they are not perfectly flat square stock. A
hatchet works ok when making one end, but making 2 parallel ends is
more challenging.
Rough it with an axe, finish with a power hand plane. Use a level to get
both ends in the same plane.