Glue on Clamps

Re: Glue on Clamps

wire brush on:
bench grinderr
4" angle grinder
die grinder

Phisherman responds:

>On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 05:48:58 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>I have sinned -- Through several glueups I have accumulated a large amount
>>of glue drips on the bars of my Bessey clamps. I am having trouble cleaning
>>the glue and it is interfering with the operation of the clamps -- any
>>advice to remove the glue ?
>>
>
>Hmmm. Whenever I get glue on a Bessey clamp, it can be chipped off
>using a putty knife, awl, or a thumbnail. I thought one advantage (of
>many) is that dried carpenter's glue doesn't stick to them easily.

Might not be a really terrible idea for him to lay on some Johnson's on the
bars for the next time.

Charlie Self
"He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire." Sir Winston
Churchill

Woodcrafter wrote:

>> and affect the application of stain or some other finish?
>
> Steer clear of the waxes that contain silicon. These *can* transfer to
> wood. Johnson's paste wax seems to be a good option.
> Just apply, allow it to dry, then buff off.
> I've not had any problems transferring to wood.

Buffing it out is the key. If you, say, slather it onto a plane sole, let
it dry, forget about it, then, just for the sake of argument, mind you,
pick it up a week later and try to plane something with it, you'll wind up
having a rough time pushing it the first few strokes, and you'll smear wax
all over the wood. Hypothetically. This has never happened to me, of
course.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:09:05 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> Might not be a really terrible idea for him to lay on some Johnson's on
>the
>> bars for the next time.
>
>I've got a question about that and other uses of wax such as putting it on a
>tablesaw surface. What are the chances that some of it will transfer to wood
>and affect the application of stain or some other finish?
>
I wax my table and fence all the time.. not much choice with
aluminum...
As far as I can tell, the only time I've had any transfer was once
when I forgot to buff the new wax before using the table..

> I've got a question about that and other uses of wax such as putting it on
a
> tablesaw surface. What are the chances that some of it will transfer to
wood
> and affect the application of stain or some other finish?

Steer clear of the waxes that contain silicon. These *can* transfer to wood.
Johnson's paste wax seems to be a good option.
Just apply, allow it to dry, then buff off.
I've not had any problems transferring to wood.

--
Regards,

Dean Bielanowski
Editor,
Online Tool Reviews
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com
Over 70 woodworking product reviews online!
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On 17 Dec 2004 13:55:06 GMT, [email protected] (Charlie Self)
wrote:


>
>Might not be a really terrible idea for him to lay on some Johnson's on the
>bars for the next time.
>
>Charlie Self

So how many guys should come over for the "laying of the johnsons?"
;)

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 09:09:05 -0500, "Upscale" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> Might not be a really terrible idea for him to lay on some Johnson's on
>the
>> bars for the next time.
>
>I've got a question about that and other uses of wax such as putting it on a
>tablesaw surface. What are the chances that some of it will transfer to wood
>and affect the application of stain or some other finish?

For me, the start of every finishing schedule is a thorough wipe down
with naptha. (Especially if I've "tack-ragged" a project.) It
de-waxes, de-oils, cleans; and it evaporates almost instantly.

Michael Baglio

On Fri, 17 Dec 2004 20:23:41 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> calmly ranted:

>Woodcrafter wrote:
>
>>> and affect the application of stain or some other finish?
>>
>> Steer clear of the waxes that contain silicon. These *can* transfer to
>> wood. Johnson's paste wax seems to be a good option.
>> Just apply, allow it to dry, then buff off.
>> I've not had any problems transferring to wood.
>
>Buffing it out is the key. If you, say, slather it onto a plane sole, let
>it dry, forget about it, then, just for the sake of argument, mind you,
>pick it up a week later and try to plane something with it, you'll wind up
>having a rough time pushing it the first few strokes, and you'll smear wax
>all over the wood. Hypothetically. This has never happened to me, of
>course.

Oh, but of course. Properly used, one applies the wax, lets dry for no
more than 15 minutes (important note), and buffs well. Just for the
sake of argument, you also must remove the iron before doing this or
you will quickly find your buffing cloth and fingers mysteriously
becoming much thinner and covered in RED bodily fluids. (No, there's
no DAMHIKT here...for this one, anyway.)

This sig complies with your apparent state of mind(?), Sylvie.


-----
= Dain Bramaged...but having lots of fun! =
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Might not be a really terrible idea for him to lay on some Johnson's on
the
> bars for the next time.

I've got a question about that and other uses of wax such as putting it on a
tablesaw surface. What are the chances that some of it will transfer to wood
and affect the application of stain or some other finish?

"Charlie Self" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> Might not be a really terrible idea for him to lay on some Johnson's on
> the
> bars for the next time.
>

I'll be damned if I'm going to put my Johnson in a clamp

Oh, you mean the wax, never mind.