Can't remember if this was my own idea or not, but it works pretty well (prefinishing shelves)

On Friday, December 6, 2013 4:03:15 AM UTC-6, Swingman wrote:

> My paint sub uses sheetrock screws instead of nails (don't need a hammer
>
> (never trust a painter with a hammer, or a plumber with a Sawzall)), the
>
> point is smaller (if you don't screw them in too far), and the big plus is
>
> he can steal them from the trim carpenter.

I got a big guffaw out of that. My painter never has a damn thing except brushes, rollers, and some odds and ends of tape.

Robert

Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/5/2013 1:59 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>> That's a very common way of doing that kind of finishing.
>
> Rediscovering the wheel, as usual. I think it came to me as a
> modification of what I did on a previous project. I attached eyescrews to
> one end and hung the pieces from hooks.
>
>> If you are using this method to finish cabinet doors, finish the "show
>> side" first, the put it down and finish the back. This helps keep nibs
>> and the occasional bug off your finished sides.
>
> As I mentioned, I am doing exactly that. I apply finish to the top face
> of each shelf, then turn them over to do the bottoms. The
> "more-easily-seen" surface dries face down, picking up less dust.

My paint sub uses sheetrock screws instead of nails (don't need a hammer
(never trust a painter with a hammer, or a plumber with a Sawzall)), the
point is smaller (if you don't screw them in too far), and the big plus is
he can steal them from the trim carpenter.

--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

woodchucker <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 12/4/2013 1:42 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Greg Guarino wrote:
>>
>>> I'm making a shelf unit to hold CDs - lots of them - in a relatively
>>> small space. That means lots of shelves mounted close together, which
>>> would be a drag to finish after assembly. So I'm prefinishing all of
>>> the interior surfaces of the project, including the tops, bottoms and
>>> front edges of the 13 horizontal parts (12 shelves plus a "top").
>>>
>>> Here's how I'm doing it:
>>>
>>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11023539026/in/set-72157637538534446/
>>>
>>>
>>> I put two finish nails into each end of each shelf (pre-drilling
>>> first). Then I clamped two long slats of 3/4" ply scrap to the work
>>> surface,
>>> just slightly further apart than the shelves are long. This allows me
>>> to suspend the shelves slightly above the work surface. I apply a coat of
>>> finish to one side (and the front edge) and then (after removing the
>>> excess) flip the pieces over , using the nails as handholds.
>>>
>>> I honestly can't remember if I thought of this myself (during my last
>>> project) or if I got the tip here. Either way, it's really working
>>> nicely. I'm curious how you "old hands" would do this.
>>>
>>> I'm giving a BLO/Poly/Thinner mixture a try, which doesn't seem to
>>> pick up much dust, but I'm doing the shelf tops first anyway, so the more
>>> visible surface will point down while they dry.
>>>
>>
>> Good strategy with the nails, Greg - I have done a very similar thing in the
>> past myself. I don't recall either, if it has ever been talked about here,
>> but it is a handy way to tackle the problem. Make sure to post more
>> pictures as it goes along.
>>
> Why do you guys like flickr... I find it takes so long for it to display
> the image...Is there a good reason so many use it?


I use flickr, I don't find it slow at all when accessing from my computer.
Anyway I use it because of convenience. Many mobile devices let you post
directly to flicker without having to go to the web site through a browser.
Additionally my smart TV, blueray, and satellite DVR work directly with
flickr.

> Greg Guarino wrote:

> > I put two finish nails into each end of each shelf (pre-drilling
>=20
> > first). Then I clamped two long slats of 3/4" ply scrap to the work=20
>=20
> > surface,
>=20
> > just slightly further apart than the shelves are long. This allows me
>=20
> > to suspend the shelves slightly above the work surface. I apply a coat =
of
>=20
> > finish to one side (and the front edge) and then (after removing the
>=20
> > excess) flip the pieces over , using the nails as handholds.
>=20
> >
>=20
> > I honestly can't remember if I thought of this myself (during my last
>=20
> > project) or if I got the tip here. Either way, it's really working
>=20
> > nicely. I'm curious how you "old hands" would do this.

That's a very common way of doing that kind of finishing. I have been usin=
g that method when doing kitchen/bath/bookshelf refinishing for many years.=
I first saw that about mid 70s when I was watching an old painter work ou=
t on a job site and he had dozens of shelves to finish. I actually haven't=
seen a better method to use for that type of finishing since then. Of cou=
rse the BIG advantage is the time savings.

If you are using this method to finish cabinet doors, finish the "show side=
" first, the put it down and finish the back. This helps keep nibs and the=
occasional bug off your finished sides.

As a sidebar, when I have a full sized door such as an entryway door, I use=
that some method from time to time. It depends on the finish I am using a=
s well as the environment. Drill the holes to hold two 20d nails each end,=
then spray or brush (or foam if you are Leon!) away. Same method as the c=
ab doors, face side first, then flip. When dry, before hanging the door ma=
ke sure to caulk the nail holes with a good quality silicone caulk.

Robert

On 12/4/2013 1:42 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Greg Guarino wrote:
>
>> I'm making a shelf unit to hold CDs - lots of them - in a relatively
>> small space. That means lots of shelves mounted close together, which
>> would be a drag to finish after assembly. So I'm prefinishing all of
>> the interior surfaces of the project, including the tops, bottoms and
>> front edges of the 13 horizontal parts (12 shelves plus a "top").
>>
>> Here's how I'm doing it:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11023539026/in/set-72157637538534446/
>>
>>
>> I put two finish nails into each end of each shelf (pre-drilling
>> first). Then I clamped two long slats of 3/4" ply scrap to the work
>> surface,
>> just slightly further apart than the shelves are long. This allows me
>> to suspend the shelves slightly above the work surface. I apply a coat of
>> finish to one side (and the front edge) and then (after removing the
>> excess) flip the pieces over , using the nails as handholds.
>>
>> I honestly can't remember if I thought of this myself (during my last
>> project) or if I got the tip here. Either way, it's really working
>> nicely. I'm curious how you "old hands" would do this.
>>
>> I'm giving a BLO/Poly/Thinner mixture a try, which doesn't seem to
>> pick up much dust, but I'm doing the shelf tops first anyway, so the more
>> visible surface will point down while they dry.
>>
>
> Good strategy with the nails, Greg - I have done a very similar thing in the
> past myself. I don't recall either, if it has ever been talked about here,
> but it is a handy way to tackle the problem. Make sure to post more
> pictures as it goes along.
>
Why do you guys like flickr... I find it takes so long for it to display
the image...Is there a good reason so many use it?

--
Jeff

On 12/6/2013 4:03 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 12/5/2013 1:59 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>>> That's a very common way of doing that kind of finishing.
>>
>> Rediscovering the wheel, as usual. I think it came to me as a
>> modification of what I did on a previous project. I attached eyescrews to
>> one end and hung the pieces from hooks.
>>
>>> If you are using this method to finish cabinet doors, finish the "show
>>> side" first, the put it down and finish the back. This helps keep nibs
>>> and the occasional bug off your finished sides.
>>
>> As I mentioned, I am doing exactly that. I apply finish to the top face
>> of each shelf, then turn them over to do the bottoms. The
>> "more-easily-seen" surface dries face down, picking up less dust.
>
> My paint sub uses sheetrock screws instead of nails (don't need a hammer
> (never trust a painter with a hammer, or a plumber with a Sawzall)), the
> point is smaller (if you don't screw them in too far), and the big plus is
> he can steal them from the trim carpenter.
>
I'm thinking screws would be easier to remove too.

Greg Guarino wrote:

> I'm making a shelf unit to hold CDs - lots of them - in a relatively
> small space. That means lots of shelves mounted close together, which
> would be a drag to finish after assembly. So I'm prefinishing all of
> the interior surfaces of the project, including the tops, bottoms and
> front edges of the 13 horizontal parts (12 shelves plus a "top").
>
> Here's how I'm doing it:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/11023539026/in/set-72157637538534446/
>
>
> I put two finish nails into each end of each shelf (pre-drilling
> first). Then I clamped two long slats of 3/4" ply scrap to the work
> surface,
> just slightly further apart than the shelves are long. This allows me
> to suspend the shelves slightly above the work surface. I apply a coat of
> finish to one side (and the front edge) and then (after removing the
> excess) flip the pieces over , using the nails as handholds.
>
> I honestly can't remember if I thought of this myself (during my last
> project) or if I got the tip here. Either way, it's really working
> nicely. I'm curious how you "old hands" would do this.
>
> I'm giving a BLO/Poly/Thinner mixture a try, which doesn't seem to
> pick up much dust, but I'm doing the shelf tops first anyway, so the more
> visible surface will point down while they dry.
>

Good strategy with the nails, Greg - I have done a very similar thing in the
past myself. I don't recall either, if it has ever been talked about here,
but it is a handy way to tackle the problem. Make sure to post more
pictures as it goes along.

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On 12/5/2013 1:59 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> That's a very common way of doing that kind of finishing.

Rediscovering the wheel, as usual. I think it came to me as a
modification of what I did on a previous project. I attached eyescrews
to one end and hung the pieces from hooks.

> If you are using this method to finish cabinet doors, finish the "show side" first, the put it down and finish the back. This helps keep nibs and the occasional bug off your finished sides.

As I mentioned, I am doing exactly that. I apply finish to the top face
of each shelf, then turn them over to do the bottoms. The
"more-easily-seen" surface dries face down, picking up less dust.

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On 12/6/2013 5:03 AM, Swingman wrote:

>
> My paint sub uses sheetrock screws instead of nails (don't need a hammer
> (never trust a painter with a hammer, or a plumber with a Sawzall)), the
> point is smaller (if you don't screw them in too far), and the big plus is
> he can steal them from the trim carpenter.
>

I'm surprised I didn't think of sheetrock screws, even though I would
have to steal them from myself. Next time.


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