OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging door
on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay. I
bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to a
unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a possible
solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the same thing?
Any suggestions to solve this problem?
SteveA
That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the
manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is unavoidable.
It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to go back and check
a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only to see the same gap
that I was getting in a tizzy about.
It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see
what I think. Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact' series.
Thanx for all replies
SteveA
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
>> door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1"
>> overlay. I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges,
>> and after setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool
>> it over to a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to
>> stand-off the face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
>>
>> I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
>> possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
>> same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?
>>
>> SteveA
>
>
> The gap is pretty much the nature of the beast for Euro style hinges,
> basically all hinges that allow you to fit doors next to each other. The
> reason that the hinge holds the door out from the cabinet is so that the
> 1/8" thick edge of the door next to the hole will clear the face frame or
> cabinet. The hinges allow the doors to open with out swinging out,
> therefore the clearance has to come from some where. The some where
> clearance is that which is between the back of the door and the face
> frame. You can buy appropriately spacers so that the door fronts will be
> on the same plane.
>
Leon,
I would appreciate the link, as this is the route I will be going. Not sure
exactly what I paid for this lot, but almost certainly more than what you
are getting them for. These are also the 'wrap-around' type because I
figured that would be better for alignment than the plain edge plate, and
they also had the additional adjustment.
Again, a newbie learning curve (just got over that with the blumotion under
mount hinges) the first being the test, but at least I had them down-pat by
the time I installed the last set...:)
SteveA
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the
>> manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is
>> unavoidable. It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to
>> go back and check a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only
>> to see the same gap that I was getting in a tizzy about.
>
> It really is not that bad especially if there are other doors mounted
> closely, they tend to keep you from seeing the gap. On lower kitchen
> cabinets there is usually a fully closing drawer that hides the gap at the
> top of the door. Upper cabinets typically require you to squat down and
> look up to see the gap at the bottoms of the doors.
>
> The "Euro" style hinges were originally designed for doors to literally be
> almost directly next to each oher and typically 2 doors would share the
> same cabinet side/divider. It was a requirement for the doors to have
> clearance to open so that the doors would not swing over from the opening.
> You never saw a gap becaause you esentially did not even see the edges of
> the doors unless you were looking at the very end of a row of doors.
>
> There are numerous Euro style face frame hinges that have been adapted for
> face fram cabinets, the kind you probably bought.
>
>>
>> It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see
>> what I think.
>
> I literally buy these style hinges by the hundreds and use them almost
> exclusively for all of my cabinets, bathroom, and kitchen jobs. I have
> not had any complaints although I warn the customer that there will be a
> slight gap. For the most part my customers are more worried about not
> seeing the hinge rather than the slight off set from the face frame.
>
>
>
> Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
>> if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact'
>> series.
>
> I don't think so, I could be wrong. I think the only way to lessen the
> gap is to actually drill the hole closer to the edge of the door and move
> the hinge in farther in the cabinet. This will weaken the door in that
> spot. Because these type hinges pivot near the center of the thickness of
> the door, the door when opened does not require any more face frame area
> than is needed when the door is closed. The normally called for 1/8"
> offset of the hinge hole from the edge of the door requires that door to
> be offset from the face frame at least the same amount, otherwise the
> hinge side of the door will come in contact with the face frame as you
> attempt to open the door.
>
> Again I almost exclusively use the compact series hinges, the ones that
> mount directly to the door opening face frame "edge". Purchased in lots
> of 50 at a time I pay about $67 for the hinges + S&H Singly or in lots
> other than multiples of 50 you pay about $1.65 each + S&H. If you would
> like I can give you a link to my source.
>
>
>
>
>
"Robatoy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:ee9f428b-c8ea-405c-ab77-8c8b374cbfca@j12g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
On May 12, 9:34 pm, "SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote:
> OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
> door
> on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay. I
> bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
> setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to
> a
> unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
> face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
>
> I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
> possible
> solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the same
> thing?
> Any suggestions to solve this problem?
>
> SteveA
How close is the edge of the door coming to the face of the face-frame
when opening/closing the door at the hinge side?
If that action maintains that 1/16 or 1/8, then simply moving the
plate back into the cabinet should cover it.
Is the front-to-back adjustment fully exhausted then?
Cant do it if there is a face frame behind the door, the door hinge side
edge will hit the face frame if you move it too closely.
"SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Leon,
>
> I would appreciate the link, as this is the route I will be going. Not
> sure exactly what I paid for this lot, but almost certainly more than what
> you are getting them for. These are also the 'wrap-around' type because I
> figured that would be better for alignment than the plain edge plate, and
> they also had the additional adjustment.
>
> Again, a newbie learning curve (just got over that with the blumotion
> under mount hinges) the first being the test, but at least I had them
> down-pat by the time I installed the last set...:)
Woodworkers Hardware
http://wwhardware.com/index.cfm/pageid/2
This is the Blum hinge that I use all the time. It allows up/down, in/out,
and left and right adjustments.
B038N355C.08
:Remember" Their better pricing is in specific package quantities. 50 are
cheaper than 40, if you order 55 you will get 50 at the lower price and 5 at
the regular single price. At a certain point it makes sense to simply round
up to the next 50 increment.
"charlie" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
>> door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1"
>> overlay. I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges,
>> and after setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool
>> it over to a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to
>> stand-off the face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
>>
>> I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
>> possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
>> same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?
>>
>> SteveA
>
> typically one would use silicone bumpons to prevent door slamming. they're
> about that thick.
Some of them are, there are hundreds of sizes. Typically you want a 1/8"
thick bumper.
On May 12, 9:34=A0pm, "SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote:
> OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging do=
or
> on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay. I
> bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
> setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over t=
o a
> unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
> face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
>
> I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a possib=
le
> solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the same thin=
g?
> Any suggestions to solve this problem?
>
> SteveA
How close is the edge of the door coming to the face of the face-frame
when opening/closing the door at the hinge side?
If that action maintains that 1/16 or 1/8, then simply moving the
plate back into the cabinet should cover it.
Is the front-to-back adjustment fully exhausted then?
"SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
> door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay.
> I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
> setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to
> a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
> face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
>
> I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
> possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
> same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?
>
> SteveA
The gap is pretty much the nature of the beast for Euro style hinges,
basically all hinges that allow you to fit doors next to each other. The
reason that the hinge holds the door out from the cabinet is so that the
1/8" thick edge of the door next to the hole will clear the face frame or
cabinet. The hinges allow the doors to open with out swinging out,
therefore the clearance has to come from some where. The some where
clearance is that which is between the back of the door and the face frame.
You can buy appropriately spacers so that the door fronts will be on the
same plane.
"SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK, I am getting along on my kitchen project and are now up to hanging
> door on the bottom cabinets. These are face frame units with a 1" overlay.
> I bought a handful of Blum 39C 1 INCH OVERLAY 39C358C.16 hinges, and after
> setting up a jig to drill them on my DP on a test piece, I tool it over to
> a unit and noticed that these hinges made the door appear to stand-off the
> face frame by 1/16-1/8", which I do not consider desirable.
>
> I am looking at the Compact 33 with the 1" overlay edge plate as a
> possible solution. Will this solve my off-set problem or will I have the
> same thing? Any suggestions to solve this problem?
>
> SteveA
typically one would use silicone bumpons to prevent door slamming. they're
about that thick.
"Pat Barber" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Here is the link Leon was trying to send:
>
> http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/ProductID/B038N355C.08
No, no that was not what I was trying to send.
It is what I should have sent LOL
Thank you Pat.
"SteveA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> That seems to say it all, having spent the day looking at all the
> manufacturers available drawings, it seems that this space is unavoidable.
> It also seems that it is fairly un-noticeable, as I had to go back and
> check a couple of doors that I threw on another cabinet only to see the
> same gap that I was getting in a tizzy about.
It really is not that bad especially if there are other doors mounted
closely, they tend to keep you from seeing the gap. On lower kitchen
cabinets there is usually a fully closing drawer that hides the gap at the
top of the door. Upper cabinets typically require you to squat down and
look up to see the gap at the bottoms of the doors.
The "Euro" style hinges were originally designed for doors to literally be
almost directly next to each oher and typically 2 doors would share the same
cabinet side/divider. It was a requirement for the doors to have clearance
to open so that the doors would not swing over from the opening. You never
saw a gap becaause you esentially did not even see the edges of the doors
unless you were looking at the very end of a row of doors.
There are numerous Euro style face frame hinges that have been adapted for
face fram cabinets, the kind you probably bought.
>
> It seems that I will have to just bit the bullet and mount a set and see
> what I think.
I literally buy these style hinges by the hundreds and use them almost
exclusively for all of my cabinets, bathroom, and kitchen jobs. I have not
had any complaints although I warn the customer that there will be a slight
gap. For the most part my customers are more worried about not seeing the
hinge rather than the slight off set from the face frame.
Worse case scenario, it seems that I can eliminate this 'gap'
> if I go to a smaller over-lay with a hinge other than the 'compact'
> series.
I don't think so, I could be wrong. I think the only way to lessen the gap
is to actually drill the hole closer to the edge of the door and move the
hinge in farther in the cabinet. This will weaken the door in that spot.
Because these type hinges pivot near the center of the thickness of the
door, the door when opened does not require any more face frame area than is
needed when the door is closed. The normally called for 1/8" offset of the
hinge hole from the edge of the door requires that door to be offset from
the face frame at least the same amount, otherwise the hinge side of the
door will come in contact with the face frame as you attempt to open the
door.
Again I almost exclusively use the compact series hinges, the ones that
mount directly to the door opening face frame "edge". Purchased in lots of
50 at a time I pay about $67 for the hinges + S&H Singly or in lots other
than multiples of 50 you pay about $1.65 each + S&H. If you would like I
can give you a link to my source.