I wish to replace the keyless chuck on my DeWalt cordless 1/2" drill because the one
on it now slips when using large round-shank bits and in deep holes. I try to use
hex-shank bits whenever possible for that reason. However, most of my drilling things
are not hex-shanked. I know squat about tapers, etc., and have never before taken off
a drill chuck. Is this something a DIYer can do? Walk me through it if you please. I
*think* I want a Jacobs keyless chuck because I do not want to sink the 4X $ into an
Albrecht keyless chuck over the prices of a keyless Jacobs chuck.
Hoyt W.
>I wish to replace the keyless chuck on my DeWalt cordless 1/2" drill because
>the one
>on it now slips when using large round-shank bits and in deep holes. I try to
>use
>hex-shank bits whenever possible for that reason. However, most of my
>drilling things
>are not hex-shanked. I know squat about tapers, etc., and have never before
>taken off
>a drill chuck. Is this something a DIYer can do? Walk me through it if you
>please. I
>*think* I want a Jacobs keyless chuck because I do not want to sink the 4X $
>into an
>Albrecht keyless chuck over the prices of a keyless Jacobs chuck.
>
>Hoyt W.
No sense in getting anything like an Albrecht or Jacobs' Albrecht
clone--they're meant for high-precision work like in drill presses and mills.
You want a good Jacobs or Rohm portable chuck. The Rohm with the carbide teeth
(used in hammer drills) is the best one out there.
Set the clutch to drill, set speed range on low. Open the chuck up and remove
the left-hand threaded screw inside. Clamp the short end of a big allen wrench
into the chuck. Whack the outboard end of the wrench with a hammer
counter-clockwise (while facing the front of the drill). No sweat.
GTO(John)
GTO69RA4 wrote:
> >I wish to replace the keyless chuck on my DeWalt cordless 1/2" drill because
> >the one
> >on it now slips when using large round-shank bits and in deep holes. I try to
> >use
> >hex-shank bits whenever possible for that reason. However, most of my
> >drilling things
> >are not hex-shanked. I know squat about tapers, etc., and have never before
> >taken off
> >a drill chuck. Is this something a DIYer can do? Walk me through it if you
> >please. I
> >*think* I want a Jacobs keyless chuck because I do not want to sink the 4X $
> >into an
> >Albrecht keyless chuck over the prices of a keyless Jacobs chuck.
> >
> >Hoyt W.
>
> No sense in getting anything like an Albrecht or Jacobs' Albrecht
> clone--they're meant for high-precision work like in drill presses and mills.
> You want a good Jacobs or Rohm portable chuck. The Rohm with the carbide teeth
> (used in hammer drills) is the best one out there.
>
> Set the clutch to drill, set speed range on low. Open the chuck up and remove
> the left-hand threaded screw inside. Clamp the short end of a big allen wrench
> into the chuck. Whack the outboard end of the wrench with a hammer
> counter-clockwise (while facing the front of the drill). No sweat.
>
> GTO(John)
Thanks GTO(John). I very much appreciate your info on removing the chuck by using a
large allen wrench and whacking it CCW. (after taking out the screw down inside)
I Googled for Rohm, went into their site, selected "Drill Chucks" and saw a long list
of them. Far too many types and styles for my lame brain. I sent a message to Rohm
giving my drill's full ID and what I am looking for and asked for their
recommendation. I await their expected reply next week. It does not hurt a bit that
they are in a state contiguous with my state of Alabama - Lawrenceville, GA .
I looked at another site:
http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/articles/showarticle.asp?articleID=1546&position=1&type=article&partID=1
which said down in there that DeWalt uses Rohm chucks - which was a surprise to me.
Since B&D is the mother hen to DeWalt, now I wonder if my keyless chuck *really is* a
genuine Rohm. In any event, I am certainly not satisfied with the keyless chuck on my
DeWalt DW995 cordless drill whoever made it.
Hoyt W.
>Thanks GTO(John). I very much appreciate your info on removing the chuck by
>using a
>large allen wrench and whacking it CCW. (after taking out the screw down
>inside)
>
>I Googled for Rohm, went into their site, selected "Drill Chucks" and saw a
>long list
>of them. Far too many types and styles for my lame brain. I sent a message to
>Rohm
>giving my drill's full ID and what I am looking for and asked for their
>recommendation. I await their expected reply next week. It does not hurt a
>bit that
>they are in a state contiguous with my state of Alabama - Lawrenceville, GA .
>
>I looked at another site:
>
>
>http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/articles/showarticle.asp?articleID=1546&po
sition=1&type=article&partID=1
>
>which said down in there that DeWalt uses Rohm chucks - which was a surprise
>to me.
>Since B&D is the mother hen to DeWalt, now I wonder if my keyless chuck
>*really is* a
>genuine Rohm. In any event, I am certainly not satisfied with the keyless
>chuck on my
>DeWalt DW995 cordless drill whoever made it.
>
>Hoyt W.
>
Is yours a silver chuck with a black plastic collar? That's a Jacobs. I have
the same drill, but never had any problems. If you want, to phrase it one way,
a bad-ass chuck, get the one used on the better DeWalt 18V hammer drills. It's
a heavy-metal chuck with a ratcheting action and carbide jaws. Great heavy
thing but it works like crazy. I also have the DW998 (discontinued) with one.
GTO(John)
>Thanks GTO(John). I very much appreciate your info on removing the chuck by
>using a
>large allen wrench and whacking it CCW. (after taking out the screw down
>inside)
>
>I Googled for Rohm, went into their site, selected "Drill Chucks" and saw a
>long list
>of them. Far too many types and styles for my lame brain. I sent a message to
>Rohm
>giving my drill's full ID and what I am looking for and asked for their
>recommendation. I await their expected reply next week. It does not hurt a
>bit that
>they are in a state contiguous with my state of Alabama - Lawrenceville, GA .
>
>I looked at another site:
>
>
>http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/articles/showarticle.asp?articleID=1546&po
sition=1&type=article&partID=1
>
>which said down in there that DeWalt uses Rohm chucks - which was a surprise
>to me.
>Since B&D is the mother hen to DeWalt, now I wonder if my keyless chuck
>*really is* a
>genuine Rohm. In any event, I am certainly not satisfied with the keyless
>chuck on my
>DeWalt DW995 cordless drill whoever made it.
>
>Hoyt W.
>
Oh yeah, your drill will use any chuck with a 1/2-20 thread and a hole for a
reverse screw. Your options are pretty wide.
GTO(John)
GTO69RA4 wrote:
<snip>
> Is yours a silver chuck with a black plastic collar? That's a Jacobs. I have
> the same drill, but never had any problems. If you want, to phrase it one way,
> a bad-ass chuck, get the one used on the better DeWalt 18V hammer drills. It's
> a heavy-metal chuck with a ratcheting action and carbide jaws. Great heavy
> thing but it works like crazy. I also have the DW998 (discontinued) with one.
>
> GTO(John)
I will go look in the morning. I do know that it has a black plastic collar. As for a
*silver* chuck, I dunno. I assume you mean bright steel. If I recall correctly, that
seems to be what my drill has. I will get back to you on that point. If it is a
Jacobs, IMO it is crap personified.
Hoyt W.
Hoyt Weathers wrote:
> GTO69RA4 wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
> > Is yours a silver chuck with a black plastic collar? That's a Jacobs. I have
> > the same drill, but never had any problems. If you want, to phrase it one way,
> > a bad-ass chuck, get the one used on the better DeWalt 18V hammer drills. It's
> > a heavy-metal chuck with a ratcheting action and carbide jaws. Great heavy
> > thing but it works like crazy. I also have the DW998 (discontinued) with one.
> >
> > GTO(John)
>
> I will go look in the morning. I do know that it has a black plastic collar. As for a
> *silver* chuck, I dunno. I assume you mean bright steel. If I recall correctly, that
> seems to be what my drill has. I will get back to you on that point. If it is a
> Jacobs, IMO it is crap personified.
>
> Hoyt W.
I am looking at my drill as I type. The chuck is a Jacobs Hand-Tite, clearly embossed on
it. That settles that. I opened the chuck all the way. I see the screw at the bottom. It
has both a Torx and a flat-blade screwdriver slot. It should be no trouble to get out. I
assume I must turn the screw CW in order to loosen and remove it. I will start that way
at least. I plan to order the chuck for the DW998 ASAP. Thanks for your patient help GTO
John.
Hoyt W.
>I am looking at my drill as I type. The chuck is a Jacobs Hand-Tite, clearly
>embossed on
>it. That settles that. I opened the chuck all the way. I see the screw at the
>bottom. It
>has both a Torx and a flat-blade screwdriver slot. It should be no trouble to
>get out. I
>assume I must turn the screw CW in order to loosen and remove it. I will
>start that way
>at least. I plan to order the chuck for the DW998 ASAP. Thanks for your
>patient help GTO
>John.
>
>Hoyt W.
Don't rely on ordering one for the DW998. Mine is an uncommon later model--most
use an upgraded Jacobs model. Find a current DeWalt with the same chuck. It's
all black/brown steel with a nose like a big nut. Carbide jaws are usually on
the spec sheet of a given tool.
GTO(John)
GTO69RA4 wrote:
> >I am looking at my drill as I type. The chuck is a Jacobs Hand-Tite, clearly
> >embossed on
> >it. That settles that. I opened the chuck all the way. I see the screw at the
> >bottom. It
> >has both a Torx and a flat-blade screwdriver slot. It should be no trouble to
> >get out. I
> >assume I must turn the screw CW in order to loosen and remove it. I will
> >start that way
> >at least. I plan to order the chuck for the DW998 ASAP. Thanks for your
> >patient help GTO
> >John.
> >
> >Hoyt W.
>
> Don't rely on ordering one for the DW998. Mine is an uncommon later model--most
> use an upgraded Jacobs model. Find a current DeWalt with the same chuck. It's
> all black/brown steel with a nose like a big nut. Carbide jaws are usually on
> the spec sheet of a given tool.
>
> GTO(John)
Sorry GTO(John), I ordered a chuck yesterday from ToolPartsDirect. com . Their
listing for that chuck, part # 330075-59, showed that it "Replaces 330075-22",
whatever that may mean. That *may* mean I may be getting the same chuck you have. For
better or for worse, one is coming to me. Surely it will be better than the Jacobs my
drill came with. I had no trouble getting the chuck off my present drill. If all
large drilling bits, of whatever type, had hex shanks, there would be no problem at
all. Whenever I have a choice, I use the hex shank bits.
Hoyt W.
On Sun, 13 Jun 2004 08:52:53 -0500, Hoyt Weathers <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I am looking at my drill as I type. The chuck is a Jacobs Hand-Tite, clearly embossed on
>it. That settles that. I opened the chuck all the way. I see the screw at the bottom. It
>has both a Torx and a flat-blade screwdriver slot. It should be no trouble to get out. I
>assume I must turn the screw CW in order to loosen and remove it.
correct. note that if the drill has been driven HARD in reverse the
screw may be a bear to get out.
> I will start that way
>at least. I plan to order the chuck for the DW998 ASAP. Thanks for your patient help GTO
>John.
>
>Hoyt W.
>