"CW" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw
> > blades.
>
> I have never seen high speed steel wood saw blades. Where do you get them?
Untipped sawblades (good ones) will usually be L-6 alloy. It's not a
"high speed steel" (a vague term, so pick your own definition), but it
is a fine steel for making scrapers (and even better for forged
knifemaking).
Slotting saws (used in metalworking) are small circular sawblades and
_are_ solid HSS. Hard to find one over 3" diameter, but they're
excellent as either tiny detail scrapers, or as cutters for a scratch
stock. They're also a little brittle, easily broken, and
unsharpenable - so an engineering workshop may have several for
scrounging.
CW wrote:
>
> I use a dowel pin. Hard as a file and smooth.
Bicycle crankshafts -- better makes, i.e. Shimano or Campagnolo, are
forged from impressive sounding stuff like case hardened, boron
nitride-impregnated 10100 bearing alloy. These will destroy a file in
short order. Flats are already ground at an convenient 3 degrees, perfect
for rolling over the hook. Heavier than a lifter rod, thus easier to draw
smoothly along the scraper edge.
> "Wouter Overmeire" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]..
> >
> > Leonard Lee (sharpening bible author) does not really like the use of
> them.
> > The only acceptable burnisher-replacement for him is a file with the teeth
> > removed.
> >
> > Wouter
> >
> >
[email protected] (Alan W) wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> After a brief lesson in using and "sharpening" one at a local
> woodworkers shop, I'm planning on purchasing one.
>
> Would like some wrecker's opinions on which brand to purchase? A
> Hock? The standard German ones?
>
> Alan
Alan I have one Sandvik and several cheap ones. Also made some from
steel kickplates from old commercial doors.All of them work well, the
cheap ones are thinner than the Sandvic, but I prefer them.Buy a set
of reasonably priced card scrapers, they'll probably work just as well
as the Hock which I admit have never used.
mike
I use a dowel pin. Hard as a file and smooth.
"Wouter Overmeire" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Leonard Lee (sharpening bible author) does not really like the use of
them.
> The only acceptable burnisher-replacement for him is a file with the teeth
> removed.
>
> Wouter
>
>
Those are plain medium carbon steel, not high speed steel.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 8 May 2004 05:35:11 -0700, "CW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> ><[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw
> >> blades.
> >
> >I have never seen high speed steel wood saw blades. Where do you get
them?
> >
>
>
>
> any tool store. lots of saws come with one as original equipment, and
> many commercial builders supply them to their piecework contractors.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw
> blades.
I have never seen high speed steel wood saw blades. Where do you get them?
[email protected] (Alan W) wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> After a brief lesson in using and "sharpening" one at a local
> woodworkers shop, I'm planning on purchasing one.
>
> Would like some wrecker's opinions on which brand to purchase? A
> Hock? The standard German ones?
>
> Alan
I have a BAHCO Sandvik scraper, and have had only moderate success with
keeping it properly tuned. Never, however, have I been accused of having
an excess of patience.
When the woodworking show came to town a couple of weeks ago, I went by the
Lie-Nielsen booth. They were selling a pair of cabinet scrapers, two
different thicknesses, for $15. I bought two pair, because I have never
heard, or experienced, anything negative about the quality of the LN tools.
These were perfect right out of the envelope, and helped me finish some
really beautiful/nasty birdseye maple drawer fronts, without resorting to
the power sander.
I don't know if your local dealer carries these, or what the shipping would
be to order them direct, but these were no more expensive, to my mind, than
the BAHCO was at Rockler. Best of all, they yielded success, right out of
the package.
Patriarch
Just bought a Sandvik (bahco) one. It only produces dust, so i need to work
on the edge and hook.
Thanks for the burnisher-push rod tip.
"Dave W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sandvik are first quality and innexpensive. I have found the best
> burnishers to be push rods from an auto engine. Most engine rebuilders
are
> glad to get rid of them.
> Dave
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On 7 May 2004 20:32:22 -0700, [email protected] (Alan W)
> > wrote:
> >
> > >After a brief lesson in using and "sharpening" one at a local
> > >woodworkers shop, I'm planning on purchasing one.
> > >
> > >Would like some wrecker's opinions on which brand to purchase? A
> > >Hock? The standard German ones?
> > >
> > >Alan
> >
> >
> > I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw
> > blades.
>
>
> >Sandvik are first quality and innexpensive. I have found the best
> >burnishers to be push rods from an auto engine. Most engine rebuilders
are
> >glad to get rid of them.
> >Dave
>
> ================================
> LOL...
> "my" claim to fame (as a user of puch rods to burnish scrapers ) now
> is shot to hell....
>
> But in truth I really have to credit my Father (died a few years ago)
> with starting me using them....
>
Leonard Lee (sharpening bible author) does not really like the use of them.
The only acceptable burnisher-replacement for him is a file with the teeth
removed.
Wouter
On Sat, 8 May 2004 07:59:07 -0400, "Dave W"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Sandvik are first quality and innexpensive. I have found the best
>burnishers to be push rods from an auto engine. Most engine rebuilders are
>glad to get rid of them.
>Dave
================================
LOL...
"my" claim to fame (as a user of puch rods to burnish scrapers ) now
is shot to hell....
But in truth I really have to credit my Father (died a few years ago)
with starting me using them....
Bob G.
On 7 May 2004 20:32:22 -0700, [email protected] (Alan W)
wrote:
>After a brief lesson in using and "sharpening" one at a local
>woodworkers shop, I'm planning on purchasing one.
>
>Would like some wrecker's opinions on which brand to purchase? A
>Hock? The standard German ones?
>
>Alan
I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw
blades.
On Sat, 8 May 2004 05:35:11 -0700, "CW" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
><[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw
>> blades.
>
>I have never seen high speed steel wood saw blades. Where do you get them?
>
any tool store. lots of saws come with one as original equipment, and
many commercial builders supply them to their piecework contractors.
On Mon, 10 May 2004 17:05:29 GMT, [email protected] (Alan W)
wrote:
>> After a brief lesson in using and "sharpening" one at a local
>> woodworkers shop, I'm planning on purchasing one.
>>
>> Would like some wrecker's opinions on which brand to purchase? A
>> Hock? The standard German ones?
You can get both sets (milled scrapers: rectangular and curves) from
www.LeeValley.com for $28, and that's delivered.
rectangular $12/set. 05K30.10 and $9.95 05K20.20 curved set.
--
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Sandvik are first quality and innexpensive. I have found the best
burnishers to be push rods from an auto engine. Most engine rebuilders are
glad to get rid of them.
Dave
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 7 May 2004 20:32:22 -0700, [email protected] (Alan W)
> wrote:
>
> >After a brief lesson in using and "sharpening" one at a local
> >woodworkers shop, I'm planning on purchasing one.
> >
> >Would like some wrecker's opinions on which brand to purchase? A
> >Hock? The standard German ones?
> >
> >Alan
>
>
> I mostly make my own from high speed steel (non carbide tipped) saw
> blades.