Well, it is made of wood so...
I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
(with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 09:55:26 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I like that idea for masking tape/duct tape. I'm going to remember that.
>
>There's no need for a flush cut in this application, so I'd avoid the
>risk of scratching the floor by making the cut an an angle so the
>tool/blade isn't touching the floor.
Which was also my suggestion. A jig would make it consistent so you
can match the angle when you rip the new trim - making a nicetight
glue joint when you install the replacement.
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:10:20 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/21/18 11:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:49:59 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> >>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> +1
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> -1
> >>>
> >>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
> >>> finish floor.
> >>>
> >>
> >> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
> >> It's not rocket surgery.
> >>
> >
> > I know...I was just commenting on the "punch the nails through" suggestion. That won't
> > work for me.
> >
> > Like I said in my OP...I have no doubt that I can get it out, I've already done some. Just
> > having fun looking for options. Too late to do any actual work here in the eastern time
> > zone. ;-)
> >
>
> Bullshit! The women's hockey team is still playing for the Gold!
> You can watch tat while you're working. :-p
>
I'm waiting till 6AM to watch Team USA, aka Team Shuster, out-Curl Team Canada - again.
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 10:41:58 PM UTC-5, Leon Bridges wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Well, it is made of wood so...
> >
> > I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> > up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> > bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >
> > I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> > wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> > poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> > (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >
> > Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> > wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >
> >
>
> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
I know where the nails are. As soon as I rip up the linoleum and luan I'll
be able to punch the bottom ones through. ;-)
On Friday, February 23, 2018 at 6:43:22 PM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 21:41:41 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
> >On 2/21/2018 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>
> >> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >>
> >> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>
> >> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>
> >
> >
> >With all of these detailed solutions,,,,,, I'm surprised some one has
> >not yet mentioned to remove the house, but leave the molding. Reminds
> >me of the old automotive cure for a broken down vehicle. Jack up the
> >radiator cap and drive a new car underneath. :~)
>
> A while back "head transplants" were in the news. Wouldn't they have
> more properly been called "body transplants"? After the surgery, who
> is the patient?
Back in high school a "head transplant" is what we called a stoner who
transferred in from a different school.
http://thecriticalcritics.com/review/wp-content/images/up-in-smoke-stoner.jpg
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> > DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>
> >> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >>
> >> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>
> >> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>
> >>
> >
> > If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
> >
>
> +1
>
-1
Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
finish floor.
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 4:38:55 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 12:43:56 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >Explain to me why your suggestion is better/easier/faster than mine.
> >
> >Yours:
> >
> >1 - Make a cutting jig for whatever tool I choose to cut the existing trim
> >2 - Protect the floor
> >3 - Make precise angle cut on the existing baseboard
> >4 - Pry off the top of the base board
> >5 - Rip the new 12' length of base board at the same angle
> >6 - Glue it to the old
> >7 - Nail the top part of the trim
> >8 - Make sure that no seam is evident that the paint won't hide, deal with it if there is. (Plaster
> >walls that are far from flat or plumb)
> >
> >Mine:
> >
> >1 - Use the curved blade on my MF tool and rip the baseboard in half, not careing how precise
> >the cut is
> >2 - Remove the top half the trim
> >3 - Pry back the bottom half to expose the nails
> >4 - Cut the nails with my MF tool
> >5 - Remove the bottom half of the trim
> >6 - Slip a new piece of trim into the gap
> >7 - Nail it top and bottom
> >
> >I can't think of one reason why I would use your method over mine. Please explain.
>
>
> Less chance of damaging the floor or wall, for starters. You don't
> say how tight the luian is to the trim. If it is tifht to the trim and
> the trim is tight to the wall, noving the bottom of the trim without
> affecting either wall or floor (or both) COULD be problematic.
If you go back and read my OP, I said that I've already removed a 3
foot section by cutting the nails. All I was asking for was an easier
way to get to the nails. Implication: I can get to the nails which
indicates that there is room to move the trim away from the wall.
>
> Also, depending on the nails you MAY go through several MF blades,
> which frommyexperience are not particularly a)cheap, and b) durable.
>
> If it doesn't work "according to plan" you have a mess on your hands.
> My way you are pretty much guaranteed no surprises and a neet,
> consistent result when you are finished.
Unless there is a seam at the glue joint that needs to be filled, sanded,
etc. I'd be at the mercy of the cut, the wall, and other factors as to
whether that 12' glue joint is neat and consistent. No thanks.
>
> It's your job, and your choice, but you asked for suggestions how to
> do the job better.
No, I asked for suggestions how to the job *easier*. You gotta admit, your
way sure isn't easier.
>
> I've told you how "I" would do it.
>
> Now you know why.
> Your choice
>
> If I screw up a job I have my wife to answer to - so I try to do
> things as well as possible - with as little chance of a screw-up as
> possible.
That's where you and I differ - twice.
1 - If I screw it up, "SWMBO" truly becomes the term of endearment it is
meant to be. I'll tell her I screwed up and she'll say "Shit Happens. Think
you can fix it?" We don't answer to each other, we talk to each other.
2 - I don't think that the requirement for 2 precise cuts and a 12' glue
joint at floor level next to an uneven plaster wall comes with "as little
chance of a screw-up as possible". I'm much more confident that an R&R is
easier, quicker and safer.
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 12:43:56 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Explain to me why your suggestion is better/easier/faster than mine.
>
>Yours:
>
>1 - Make a cutting jig for whatever tool I choose to cut the existing trim
>2 - Protect the floor
>3 - Make precise angle cut on the existing baseboard
>4 - Pry off the top of the base board
>5 - Rip the new 12' length of base board at the same angle
>6 - Glue it to the old
>7 - Nail the top part of the trim
>8 - Make sure that no seam is evident that the paint won't hide, deal with it if there is. (Plaster
>walls that are far from flat or plumb)
>
>Mine:
>
>1 - Use the curved blade on my MF tool and rip the baseboard in half, not careing how precise
>the cut is
>2 - Remove the top half the trim
>3 - Pry back the bottom half to expose the nails
>4 - Cut the nails with my MF tool
>5 - Remove the bottom half of the trim
>6 - Slip a new piece of trim into the gap
>7 - Nail it top and bottom
>
>I can't think of one reason why I would use your method over mine. Please explain.
Less chance of damaging the floor or wall, for starters. You don't
say how tight the luian is to the trim. If it is tifht to the trim and
the trim is tight to the wall, noving the bottom of the trim without
affecting either wall or floor (or both) COULD be problematic.
Also, depending on the nails you MAY go through several MF blades,
which frommyexperience are not particularly a)cheap, and b) durable.
If it doesn't work "according to plan" you have a mess on your hands.
My way you are pretty much guaranteed no surprises and a neet,
consistent result when you are finished.
It's your job, and your choice, but you asked for suggestions how to
do the job better.
I've told you how "I" would do it.
Now you know why.
Your choice
If I screw up a job I have my wife to answer to - so I try to do
things as well as possible - with as little chance of a screw-up as
possible.
I still have my scalp!!!
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 00:13:57 -0500, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> +1
>>>>
>>>
>>> -1
>>>
>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>>> finish floor.
>>>
>>
>>Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>>It's not rocket surgery.
>
>
> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
>difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
>angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
>cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
>wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
>molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
>on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
He's got a "multifunction tool" by which I assume something along the
lines of a Multimaster. The round blade in one of those should cut
the molding as you describe with no smoke.
Put down a layer of blue tape and a couple of layers of duct tape on
top of that to protect the floor (the blue tape to make for easy
peel-off later, the duct tape to provide a wear layer) and the
multitool with a circular offset blade should be able to cut flush
without damaging the floor.
I would advise practicing this technique on a surface that doesn't
matter first--not enough tape and you'll wear through the tape before
the cut's done, and if you get careless you can go through any amount
of tape fairly quickly.
This is the kind of blade I have in mind
<https://www.amazon.com/Fein-63502113210-Oscillating-Segmented-Circular/dp/B019A32UQO>
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:49:59 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> >>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>>>
> >>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >>>>
> >>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>>>
> >>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
> >>>
> >>
> >> +1
> >>
> >
> > -1
> >
> > Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
> > finish floor.
> >
>
> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
> It's not rocket surgery.
>
I know...I was just commenting on the "punch the nails through" suggestion. That won't
work for me.
Like I said in my OP...I have no doubt that I can get it out, I've already done some. Just
having fun looking for options. Too late to do any actual work here in the eastern time
zone. ;-)
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 9:16:37 PM UTC-6, -MIKE- wrote:
> First thing I would try is pounding a wonderbar into the trim at the
> floor and prying it up.
The wonder bar I'm familiar with is kinna large. How about a Hyde pry bar? They are great for removing small window trim, also. I have 2, used in tandem when prying trim.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyde-Pry-Bar/21287423
Sonny
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 10:00:34 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Well, it is made of wood so...
>
> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>
> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>
> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
My removal plan worked out better than I thought.
Once I pried the top of the baseboard away from the wall a little bit and
"ripped" about a 2 foot section with the half moon blade on my MF saw, I
was able to grab the loose section and basically tear the top of the
baseboard from the wall.
https://i.imgur.com/7YxcElf.jpg
A little more prying of the bottom section and I was able to cut the nails
with the MF tool and lift the baseboard out.
Installation of the new is not going to be as easy as I thought, but I'm
almost there. First, "modern" baseboard is a little thicker than 65 YO
baseboard. Just over 1/2" for the new stuff, just under 1/2" for the old.
Therefore the new baseboard doesn't just slip between the luan and the
wall.
In addition, there's a 1 by nailer strip (I assume) that is just proud
of the wall in few spots. A couple of passes over the dado blade will
thin the bottom of the baseboard just enough to slide it in and keep it
plumb with the wall. Already tested that method and it'll work.
https://i.imgur.com/3gUv1eg.jpg
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 21:41:41 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 2/21/2018 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>
>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>
>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>
>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>
>
>
>With all of these detailed solutions,,,,,, I'm surprised some one has
>not yet mentioned to remove the house, but leave the molding. Reminds
>me of the old automotive cure for a broken down vehicle. Jack up the
>radiator cap and drive a new car underneath. :~)
Around here it was "does the horn work?"
"jack up the horn and put a new car under it"
And if we had a real clunker "Paint it red and put air horns on it and
send it to Quebec" Generally reserved for the ones where the horn
DIDN'T work - - - -
That was in the late sixties / early seventies.
DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> Well, it is made of wood so...
>
> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>
> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>
> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>
>
If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 11:28:44 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 04:12:12 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 1:06:09 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 2/22/18 12:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> > On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> >> On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
> >> >>>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> >> >>>> wrote:
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >>>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> >>>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> >> >>>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >>>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >> >>>>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >> >>>>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >> >>>>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >> >>>>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >> >>>>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >> >>>>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >> >>>>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >> >>>>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >> >>>>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >> >>>>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
> >> >>>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>> +1
> >> >>>>>>>
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> -1
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
> >> >>>>>> finish floor.
> >> >>>>>>
> >> >>>>>
> >> >>>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
> >> >>>>> It's not rocket surgery.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
> >> >>>> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
> >> >>>> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
> >> >>>> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
> >> >>>> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
> >> >>>> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
> >> >>>> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
> >> >>>
> >> >>> ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
> >> >>> base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
> >> >>> to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
> >> >>>
> >> >>
> >> >> I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
> >> >> there.
> >> >
> >> > Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe
> >> > I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)
> >> >
> >> > This is what I am dealing with:
> >> >
> >> > https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
> >> >> could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
> >> >> install new base on top.
> >> >
> >> > Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom
> >> > nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing
> >> > baseboard that won't be removed.
> >> >
> >> > Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in
> >> > less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.
> >> >
> >>
> >> That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short. :-p
> >> But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long ago, so
> >> that's cool.
> >
> >Unless I want to R&R all of the baseboard in the kitchen and living room to raise
> >it that 1/4"+, replacing just the section where we're painting is my only option.
> >
> >That wall continues into the living room and the baseboard needs to match the height of
> >the living room baseboard where they butt up. The living room baseboard essentially
> >circles all the way around the living room (skipping openings, of course) and comes back
> >into the kitchen and then continues around the kitchen.
> >
> >If one of your clients asked you to replace a 12' section of baseboard in the kitchen, would
> >you suggest that they R&R all of the base board on an entire floor just to get that 1/4" back?
>
>
> Do you have a table saw?
> Make it pay the rent for the space it occupies. 12 feet should take
> less than 3 minutes of cutting and 2 minutes of setup.
> THen it will look good when you are done.
> If you cut the old board at a consistent angle as I suggested, adjust
> the saw to match and glue the new piece to the old part left behind
> the flooring and single nail the trim to the wall.
Explain to me why your suggestion is better/easier/faster than mine.
Yours:
1 - Make a cutting jig for whatever tool I choose to cut the existing trim
2 - Protect the floor
3 - Make precise angle cut on the existing baseboard
4 - Pry off the top of the base board
5 - Rip the new 12' length of base board at the same angle
6 - Glue it to the old
7 - Nail the top part of the trim
8 - Make sure that no seam is evident that the paint won't hide, deal with it if there is. (Plaster
walls that are far from flat or plumb)
Mine:
1 - Use the curved blade on my MF tool and rip the baseboard in half, not careing how precise
the cut is
2 - Remove the top half the trim
3 - Pry back the bottom half to expose the nails
4 - Cut the nails with my MF tool
5 - Remove the bottom half of the trim
6 - Slip a new piece of trim into the gap
7 - Nail it top and bottom
I can't think of one reason why I would use your method over mine. Please explain.
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 04:12:12 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 1:06:09 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/22/18 12:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> >> On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> >>>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> >>>> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >>>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> >>>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>> >>>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >>>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>> >>>>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>> >>>>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>> >>>>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>> >>>>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>> >>>>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>> >>>>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>> >>>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>> +1
>> >>>>>>>
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> -1
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>> >>>>>> finish floor.
>> >>>>>>
>> >>>>>
>> >>>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>> >>>>> It's not rocket surgery.
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
>> >>>> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
>> >>>> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
>> >>>> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
>> >>>> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
>> >>>> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
>> >>>> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
>> >>>
>> >>> ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
>> >>> base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
>> >>> to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >> I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
>> >> there.
>> >
>> > Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe
>> > I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)
>> >
>> > This is what I am dealing with:
>> >
>> > https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg
>> >
>> >
>> >> If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
>> >> could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
>> >> install new base on top.
>> >
>> > Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom
>> > nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing
>> > baseboard that won't be removed.
>> >
>> > Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in
>> > less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.
>> >
>>
>> That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short. :-p
>> But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long ago, so
>> that's cool.
>
>Unless I want to R&R all of the baseboard in the kitchen and living room to raise
>it that 1/4"+, replacing just the section where we're painting is my only option.
>
>That wall continues into the living room and the baseboard needs to match the height of
>the living room baseboard where they butt up. The living room baseboard essentially
>circles all the way around the living room (skipping openings, of course) and comes back
>into the kitchen and then continues around the kitchen.
>
>If one of your clients asked you to replace a 12' section of baseboard in the kitchen, would
>you suggest that they R&R all of the base board on an entire floor just to get that 1/4" back?
Do you have a table saw?
Make it pay the rent for the space it occupies. 12 feet should take
less than 3 minutes of cutting and 2 minutes of setup.
THen it will look good when you are done.
If you cut the old board at a consistent angle as I suggested, adjust
the saw to match and glue the new piece to the old part left behind
the flooring and single nail the trim to the wall.
On 2/22/18 2:43 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 11:28:44 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 04:12:12 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 1:06:09 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 2/22/18 12:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>> On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>>>>>>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>>>>>>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>>>>>>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>>>>>>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>>>>>>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> +1
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> -1
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>>>>>>>>>> finish floor.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>>>>>>>>> It's not rocket surgery.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
>>>>>>>> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
>>>>>>>> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
>>>>>>>> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
>>>>>>>> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
>>>>>>>> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
>>>>>>>> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
>>>>>>> base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
>>>>>>> to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
>>>>>> there.
>>>>>
>>>>> Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe
>>>>> I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)
>>>>>
>>>>> This is what I am dealing with:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
>>>>>> could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
>>>>>> install new base on top.
>>>>>
>>>>> Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom
>>>>> nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing
>>>>> baseboard that won't be removed.
>>>>>
>>>>> Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in
>>>>> less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short. :-p
>>>> But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long ago, so
>>>> that's cool.
>>>
>>> Unless I want to R&R all of the baseboard in the kitchen and living room to raise
>>> it that 1/4"+, replacing just the section where we're painting is my only option.
>>>
>>> That wall continues into the living room and the baseboard needs to match the height of
>>> the living room baseboard where they butt up. The living room baseboard essentially
>>> circles all the way around the living room (skipping openings, of course) and comes back
>>> into the kitchen and then continues around the kitchen.
>>>
>>> If one of your clients asked you to replace a 12' section of baseboard in the kitchen, would
>>> you suggest that they R&R all of the base board on an entire floor just to get that 1/4" back?
>>
>>
>> Do you have a table saw?
>> Make it pay the rent for the space it occupies. 12 feet should take
>> less than 3 minutes of cutting and 2 minutes of setup.
>> THen it will look good when you are done.
>> If you cut the old board at a consistent angle as I suggested, adjust
>> the saw to match and glue the new piece to the old part left behind
>> the flooring and single nail the trim to the wall.
>
> Explain to me why your suggestion is better/easier/faster than mine.
>
> Yours:
>
> 1 - Make a cutting jig for whatever tool I choose to cut the existing trim
> 2 - Protect the floor
> 3 - Make precise angle cut on the existing baseboard
> 4 - Pry off the top of the base board
> 5 - Rip the new 12' length of base board at the same angle
> 6 - Glue it to the old
> 7 - Nail the top part of the trim
> 8 - Make sure that no seam is evident that the paint won't hide, deal with it if there is. (Plaster
> walls that are far from flat or plumb)
>
> Mine:
>
> 1 - Use the curved blade on my MF tool and rip the baseboard in half, not careing how precise
> the cut is
> 2 - Remove the top half the trim
> 3 - Pry back the bottom half to expose the nails
> 4 - Cut the nails with my MF tool
> 5 - Remove the bottom half of the trim
> 6 - Slip a new piece of trim into the gap
> 7 - Nail it top and bottom
>
> I can't think of one reason why I would use your method over mine. Please explain.
>
If you use my pry-bar method you don't have to cut the trim in half and
it'll tear the trim away from the nails, leaving manageable leftovers to
remove. And it's pretty fast.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 1:06:09 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/22/18 12:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
> >>>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> >>>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >>>>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >>>>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >>>>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >>>>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >>>>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >>>>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> +1
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -1
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
> >>>>>> finish floor.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
> >>>>> It's not rocket surgery.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
> >>>> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
> >>>> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
> >>>> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
> >>>> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
> >>>> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
> >>>> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
> >>>
> >>> ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
> >>> base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
> >>> to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
> >>>
> >>
> >> I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
> >> there.
> >
> > Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe
> > I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)
> >
> > This is what I am dealing with:
> >
> > https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg
> >
> >
> >> If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
> >> could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
> >> install new base on top.
> >
> > Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom
> > nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing
> > baseboard that won't be removed.
> >
> > Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in
> > less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.
> >
>
> That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short. :-p
> But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long ago, so
> that's cool.
Unless I want to R&R all of the baseboard in the kitchen and living room to raise
it that 1/4"+, replacing just the section where we're painting is my only option.
That wall continues into the living room and the baseboard needs to match the height of
the living room baseboard where they butt up. The living room baseboard essentially
circles all the way around the living room (skipping openings, of course) and comes back
into the kitchen and then continues around the kitchen.
If one of your clients asked you to replace a 12' section of baseboard in the kitchen, would
you suggest that they R&R all of the base board on an entire floor just to get that 1/4" back?
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 10:44:09 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 21:16:33 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >On 2/21/18 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>
> >> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>
> Someone took a shortcut and now you are paying for it. The shoe base
> should have been removed before the luan was laid - and to do it RIGHT
> should be removed before laying new linoleum or vinyl flooring
It's...
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/E_npiIh6dsI/hqdefault.jpg
Thanks for restating the problem.
> >>
> >> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>
> >> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>
> >
> >First thing I would try is pounding a wonderbar into the trim at the
> >floor and prying it up.
> >It'll either pull the nails, or split the trim at the nail lines,
> >leaving you with the result of using your oscillating tool to rip it.
> >
> >Before prying it up, I'd trying removing any nails at the top of the
> >trim, first.
> >There are several ways to do this. Advise available if needed. :-)
>
>
> If you can find the nails, punch them through. Then the trim almost
> falls off. I'm assuming it is fastened with finishing nails.
I'll be able to find the nails as soon as I rip up the linoleum and luan.
On 2/21/2018 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Well, it is made of wood so...
>
> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>
> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>
> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>
With all of these detailed solutions,,,,,, I'm surprised some one has
not yet mentioned to remove the house, but leave the molding. Reminds
me of the old automotive cure for a broken down vehicle. Jack up the
radiator cap and drive a new car underneath. :~)
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 10:16:37 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/21/18 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Well, it is made of wood so...
> >
> > I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> > up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> > bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >
> > I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> > wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> > poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> > (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >
> > Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> > wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >
>
> First thing I would try is pounding a wonderbar into the trim at the
> floor and prying it up.
Plaster over horizontal gypsum board. I'd rather not pound if I don't
have to and since there other options, I'll use a more gentle approach.
> It'll either pull the nails, or split the trim at the nail lines,
> leaving you with the result of using your oscillating tool to rip it.
But I like the noise. ;-)
>
> Before prying it up, I'd trying removing any nails at the top of the
> trim, first.
Yep, that's easy. Once I pry the top of the show base back, the nails are
easy to cut with the MF tool. They are actually too long to come out of the
wall before the bottom of the moulding begins to push on the vinyl floor.
(I know I said linoleum, but I meant vinyl)
> There are several ways to do this. Advise available if needed. :-)
>
Oh, I'm sure of that! ;-)
On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 10:00:34 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Well, it is made of wood so...
>=20
> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty bea=
t
> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the=
=20
> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>=20
> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I=
'm=20
> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more=
=20
> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half=20
> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>=20
> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the=20
> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
Lotta good suggestions already. You can also wiggle a thin wide putty knif=
e down behind the trim and then drive a dull wood screw through the trim in=
to the knife to pull it away from the wall. This can help prevent cracking=
the drywall. I think Lee Valley makes a dedicated trim removal tool now, =
too.
JP
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> >>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> +1
> >>>
> >>
> >> -1
> >>
> >> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
> >> finish floor.
> >>
> >
> >Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
> >It's not rocket surgery.
>
>
> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
> >> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> >>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> >>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> >>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> >>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> >>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> >>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> >>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> >>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> +1
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> -1
> >>>>
> >>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
> >>>> finish floor.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
> >>> It's not rocket surgery.
> >>
> >>
> >> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
> >> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
> >> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
> >> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
> >> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
> >> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
> >> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
> >
> > ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
> > base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
> > to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
> >
>
> I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
> there.
Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe
I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)
This is what I am dealing with:
https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg
> If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
> could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
> install new base on top.
Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom
nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing
baseboard that won't be removed.
Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in
less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.
>
> You don't need shoe molding unless there's "something to hide."
> Meaning, a gap between the finished flooring and the wall/baseboard, or
> a wavy horizontal line in the finished floor that created dips that the
> baseboard can't follow.
On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 20:07:55 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 10:44:09 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 21:16:33 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >On 2/21/18 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >> Well, it is made of wood so...
>> >>
>> >> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>> >> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>> >> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>
>> Someone took a shortcut and now you are paying for it. The shoe base
>> should have been removed before the luan was laid - and to do it RIGHT
>> should be removed before laying new linoleum or vinyl flooring
>
>It's...
>
>https://i.ytimg.com/vi/E_npiIh6dsI/hqdefault.jpg
>
>Thanks for restating the problem.
>
>
>> >>
>> >> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>> >> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>> >> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>> >> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>> >>
>> >> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>> >> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>> >>
>> >
>> >First thing I would try is pounding a wonderbar into the trim at the
>> >floor and prying it up.
>> >It'll either pull the nails, or split the trim at the nail lines,
>> >leaving you with the result of using your oscillating tool to rip it.
>> >
>> >Before prying it up, I'd trying removing any nails at the top of the
>> >trim, first.
>> >There are several ways to do this. Advise available if needed. :-)
>>
>>
>> If you can find the nails, punch them through. Then the trim almost
>> falls off. I'm assuming it is fastened with finishing nails.
>
>I'll be able to find the nails as soon as I rip up the linoleum and luan.
OUCH!!!!
On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 21:16:33 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/21/18 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>
>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
Someone took a shortcut and now you are paying for it. The shoe base
should have been removed before the luan was laid - and to do it RIGHT
should be removed before laying new linoleum or vinyl flooring
>>
>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>
>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>
>
>First thing I would try is pounding a wonderbar into the trim at the
>floor and prying it up.
>It'll either pull the nails, or split the trim at the nail lines,
>leaving you with the result of using your oscillating tool to rip it.
>
>Before prying it up, I'd trying removing any nails at the top of the
>trim, first.
>There are several ways to do this. Advise available if needed. :-)
If you can find the nails, punch them through. Then the trim almost
falls off. I'm assuming it is fastened with finishing nails.
On 2/23/2018 5:43 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 21:41:41 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
> wrote:
>
>> On 2/21/2018 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>
>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>
>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>
>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>
>>
>>
>> With all of these detailed solutions,,,,,, I'm surprised some one has
>> not yet mentioned to remove the house, but leave the molding. Reminds
>> me of the old automotive cure for a broken down vehicle. Jack up the
>> radiator cap and drive a new car underneath. :~)
>
> A while back "head transplants" were in the news. Wouldn't they have
> more properly been called "body transplants"? After the surgery, who
> is the patient?
>
You know I remember asking that same question. Would you be getting a
new body or a new head?
On 2/21/18 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Well, it is made of wood so...
>
> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>
> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>
> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>
First thing I would try is pounding a wonderbar into the trim at the
floor and prying it up.
It'll either pull the nails, or split the trim at the nail lines,
leaving you with the result of using your oscillating tool to rip it.
Before prying it up, I'd trying removing any nails at the top of the
trim, first.
There are several ways to do this. Advise available if needed. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>
>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>
>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>
>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>
>>
>
> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>
+1
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>
>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>
>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>
>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>
>>
>> +1
>>
>
> -1
>
> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
> finish floor.
>
Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
It's not rocket surgery.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 9:57:09 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 2/22/18 6:34 PM, Markem wrote:
> > On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 16:39:46 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> If you use my pry-bar method you don't have to cut the trim in half and
> >> it'll tear the trim away from the nails, leaving manageable leftovers to
> >> remove. And it's pretty fast.
> >
> > Yes use a 7 inch pry bar as a splitting wedge and twist. You can use a
> > piece of luan to protect the vinyl flooring. But he has a Multi tool
> > and he want to use it, so his plan is good with me.
> >
> > Okay we can now continue with the suggestions.
> >
>
> More like 12-18inch.
> I offered a fast solution.
> We can continue with the slower ones... fine with me. :-)
>
>
All that really matters is this:
https://www.nytimes.com/2018/02/22/sports/olympics/us-mens-curling-canada-semifinals.html
I was "late" for work this morning 'cuz the game was tight until the
very end (no pun intended). It's a good thing I'm free to set my own
work schedule.
Luckily the Gold medal game is at 1:00PM EST on Saturday. I can take a break
from the trim work to watch Team USA go for the gold.
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 16:39:46 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>If you use my pry-bar method you don't have to cut the trim in half and
>it'll tear the trim away from the nails, leaving manageable leftovers to
>remove. And it's pretty fast.
Yes use a 7 inch pry bar as a splitting wedge and twist. You can use a
piece of luan to protect the vinyl flooring. But he has a Multi tool
and he want to use it, so his plan is good with me.
Okay we can now continue with the suggestions.
On 2/22/18 6:34 PM, Markem wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 16:39:46 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> If you use my pry-bar method you don't have to cut the trim in half and
>> it'll tear the trim away from the nails, leaving manageable leftovers to
>> remove. And it's pretty fast.
>
> Yes use a 7 inch pry bar as a splitting wedge and twist. You can use a
> piece of luan to protect the vinyl flooring. But he has a Multi tool
> and he want to use it, so his plan is good with me.
>
> Okay we can now continue with the suggestions.
>
More like 12-18inch.
I offered a fast solution.
We can continue with the slower ones... fine with me. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/21/18 11:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:49:59 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> +1
>>>>
>>>
>>> -1
>>>
>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>>> finish floor.
>>>
>>
>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>> It's not rocket surgery.
>>
>
> I know...I was just commenting on the "punch the nails through" suggestion. That won't
> work for me.
>
> Like I said in my OP...I have no doubt that I can get it out, I've already done some. Just
> having fun looking for options. Too late to do any actual work here in the eastern time
> zone. ;-)
>
Bullshit! The women's hockey team is still playing for the Gold!
You can watch tat while you're working. :-p
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> +1
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -1
>>>>
>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>>>> finish floor.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>>> It's not rocket surgery.
>>
>>
>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
>> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
>> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
>> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
>> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
>> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
>> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
>
> ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
> base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
> to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
>
I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
there.
If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
install new base on top.
You don't need shoe molding unless there's "something to hide."
Meaning, a gap between the finished flooring and the wall/baseboard, or
a wavy horizontal line in the finished floor that created dips that the
baseboard can't follow.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/22/18 12:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> +1
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -1
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>>>>>> finish floor.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>>>>> It's not rocket surgery.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
>>>> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
>>>> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
>>>> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
>>>> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
>>>> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
>>>> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
>>>
>>> ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same height as the shoe
>>> base it's going to butt up to further along the wall...shoe base that is not going
>>> to be removed. I think I'll pass on that idea.
>>>
>>
>> I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good idea,
>> there.
>
> Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard. Maybe
> I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-) (Bedtime after this.)
>
> This is what I am dealing with:
>
> https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg
>
>
>> If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard, then you
>> could rip the existing base flush with the new finished flooring and
>> install new base on top.
>
> Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the bottom
> nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with the existing
> baseboard that won't be removed.
>
> Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour. Certainly in
> less time than cutting the existing flush and ripping the new.
>
That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short. :-p
But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long ago, so
that's cool.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/22/18 6:12 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 1:06:09 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 2/22/18 12:01 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:31:30 AM UTC-5, -MIKE-
>>> wrote:
>>>> On 2/21/18 11:23 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 12:14:00 AM UTC-5, Clare
>>>>> Snyder wrote:
>>>>>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE-
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5,
>>>>>>>> -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base
>>>>>>>>>>> moulding. (It's pretty beat up and I don't feel
>>>>>>>>>>> like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that
>>>>>>>>>>> the bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so
>>>>>>>>>>> it has to come up then out.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my
>>>>>>>>>>> multi-function tool but I'm wondering if there is
>>>>>>>>>>> an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was
>>>>>>>>>>> more poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could
>>>>>>>>>>> rip the shoe base in half (with the MF tool) to
>>>>>>>>>>> make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to
>>>>>>>>>>> suggestions from the wisdom of the wRec. This
>>>>>>>>>>> might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and
>>>>>>>>>> drive them through.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> +1
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -1
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know
>>>>>>>> they're lower than the finish floor.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar. It's
>>>>>>> not rocket surgery.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of
>>>>>> more difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle
>>>>>> grinder at a shallow angle to cut the base just proud of
>>>>>> the vinyl flooring, with the cut-off wheel pointing just
>>>>>> slightly down. It will make a bit of wood-smoke, but it
>>>>>> will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw molding
>>>>>> on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will
>>>>>> fit on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke -
>>>>>> - -
>>>>>
>>>>> ...and then rip the shoe base since it needs to be the same
>>>>> height as the shoe base it's going to butt up to further
>>>>> along the wall...shoe base that is not going to be removed. I
>>>>> think I'll pass on that idea.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I don't know what you mean by "shoe base," but Clare has a good
>>>> idea, there.
>>>
>>> Shoe base, as far as I tought, is one of many types of baseboard.
>>> Maybe I'm using the wrong term. Like I said it's late. ;-)
>>> (Bedtime after this.)
>>>
>>> This is what I am dealing with:
>>>
>>> https://i.imgur.com/VkP9gGt.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>>> If you're replacing 3-1/2" baseboard with 3-1/2" baseboard,
>>>> then you could rip the existing base flush with the new
>>>> finished flooring and install new base on top.
>>>
>>> Easier/safer to rip the existing "baseboard" on the wall, cut the
>>> bottom nails and slip in a new piece. It'll line up evenly with
>>> the existing baseboard that won't be removed.
>>>
>>> Like I said, I'll get it out and probably in less than an hour.
>>> Certainly in less time than cutting the existing flush and
>>> ripping the new.
>>>
>>
>> That's fine if you're ok with baseboard that looks too short.
>> :-p But hey, people gave up caring about scale and perspective long
>> ago, so that's cool.
>
> Unless I want to R&R all of the baseboard in the kitchen and living
> room to raise it that 1/4"+, replacing just the section where we're
> painting is my only option.
>
> That wall continues into the living room and the baseboard needs to
> match the height of the living room baseboard where they butt up. The
> living room baseboard essentially circles all the way around the
> living room (skipping openings, of course) and comes back into the
> kitchen and then continues around the kitchen.
>
> If one of your clients asked you to replace a 12' section of
> baseboard in the kitchen, would you suggest that they R&R all of the
> base board on an entire floor just to get that 1/4" back?
>
1. I'm joking around with you.
2. I wouldn't "suggest" they did, but I would bring up the fact that it
is shorter than normal and make sure they knew they have the option.
Most will just say "pffft! I don't care about that." But I have two or
three regular clients who come to mind who it would drive nuts and
they'd probably suggest it before I would.
One in particular could see that one set of curtains was hanging 1/8"
higher from the floor than the other and wasn't satisfied until I
adjusted them. That's fine with me. I have that kind of eye, too, so I
know it would bug me sitting there all evening and seeing it if it was
my home.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/22/18 6:35 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 00:13:57 -0500, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> +1
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -1
>>>>
>>>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>>>> finish floor.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>>> It's not rocket surgery.
>>
>>
>> There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
>> difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
>> angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
>> cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
>> wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
>> molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
>> on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -
>
> He's got a "multifunction tool" by which I assume something along the
> lines of a Multimaster. The round blade in one of those should cut
> the molding as you describe with no smoke.
>
> Put down a layer of blue tape and a couple of layers of duct tape on
> top of that to protect the floor (the blue tape to make for easy
> peel-off later, the duct tape to provide a wear layer) and the
> multitool with a circular offset blade should be able to cut flush
> without damaging the floor.
>
> I would advise practicing this technique on a surface that doesn't
> matter first--not enough tape and you'll wear through the tape before
> the cut's done, and if you get careless you can go through any amount
> of tape fairly quickly.
>
> This is the kind of blade I have in mind
> <https://www.amazon.com/Fein-63502113210-Oscillating-Segmented-Circular/dp/B019A32UQO>
>
I like that idea for masking tape/duct tape. I'm going to remember that.
There's no need for a flush cut in this application, so I'd avoid the
risk of scratching the floor by making the cut an an angle so the
tool/blade isn't touching the floor.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On 2/22/18 10:32 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 09:55:26 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I like that idea for masking tape/duct tape. I'm going to remember that.
>>
>> There's no need for a flush cut in this application, so I'd avoid the
>> risk of scratching the floor by making the cut an an angle so the
>> tool/blade isn't touching the floor.
>
>
>
> Which was also my suggestion. A jig would make it consistent so you
> can match the angle when you rip the new trim - making a nicetight
> glue joint when you install the replacement.
>
That's what shoe molding is for. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com
On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 19:00:23 [email protected] wrote:
> beat up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is
> that the bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come
> up then out.
leave the bit behind the linoleum in place
just cut horizontal
then install new trim above that
if the linoleum is glued to that trim then you open a can of worms
when you damage the linoleum
On Thu, 22 Feb 2018 21:41:41 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
>On 2/21/2018 9:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>
>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>
>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>
>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>
>
>
>With all of these detailed solutions,,,,,, I'm surprised some one has
>not yet mentioned to remove the house, but leave the molding. Reminds
>me of the old automotive cure for a broken down vehicle. Jack up the
>radiator cap and drive a new car underneath. :~)
A while back "head transplants" were in the news. Wouldn't they have
more properly been called "body transplants"? After the surgery, who
is the patient?
On Wed, 21 Feb 2018 22:49:56 -0600, -MIKE- <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On 2/21/18 10:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 11:24:52 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 2/21/18 9:41 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> DerbyDad03 <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> Well, it is made of wood so...
>>>>>
>>>>> I need to remove about 12' of 3 1/4" shoe base moulding. (It's pretty beat
>>>>> up and I don't feel like stripping/filling it.) The problem is that the
>>>>> bottom 1/4"+ is behind the luan/linoleum so it has to come up then out.
>>>>>
>>>>> I did a 3' section by cutting the nails with my multi-function tool but I'm
>>>>> wondering if there is an easier way. Getting to the bottom nails was more
>>>>> poke-and-hope than I'd like. I guess I could rip the shoe base in half
>>>>> (with the MF tool) to make it easier to get to the bottom nails.
>>>>>
>>>>> Obviously, I can get this done, but I'm open to suggestions from the
>>>>> wisdom of the wRec. This might be fun. ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If you know where the nails are, use a nail set and drive them through.
>>>>
>>>
>>> +1
>>>
>>
>> -1
>>
>> Just "knowing" where they are doesn't help. I know they're lower than the
>> finish floor.
>>
>
>Just tear it out per my suggestion of the pry bar.
>It's not rocket surgery.
There is another simple way to do it, after you do a bit of more
difficult work. Make a jig to hold your 4" angle grinder at a shallow
angle to cut the base just proud of the vinyl flooring, with the
cut-off wheel pointing just slightly down. It will make a bit of
wood-smoke, but it will leave a nice smooth surface to set your nrw
molding on. Perhaps one of the new mini circular saw blades will fit
on the grinder to make coarser sawdust and less smoke - - -