How do you transfer a pattern to your wood

black and white transfer paper is available at most craft stores
(Michaels or AC Mooore). It can also be found on web sites with
scroollsaw patterns and whilygigs(sp?) and "yard art"

BRuce

Ernie Jurick wrote:
> "Pops" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it
>
> on
>
>>my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>>
>>How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
>>and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
>>the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>>
>>I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>
>
> If you can't find carbon paper in this day and age, simply rub a soft pencil
> over the *back* of the paper where the lines are, tape the pattern in place
> and trace over the lines with a ballpoint pen.
> -- Ernie
>
>

"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote

: Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern, lay
the
: page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back of
the
: print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think.

JGS rightly expresses some doubt.

It would be interesting to know whether anyone has actually been able to
make a laser printer do this?

Jeff G

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
Email address is username@ISP
username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
Website www.amgron.clara.net

Go to a sewing shop. Tracing paper. Sold by the yard.


"Lawrence Wasserman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't remember where to credit this idea, but a used plain-paper fax
> machine cartridge (the type that has 2 rolls of what looks like carbon
> paper) is a good source for long long lengths of carbon paper.
> --
>
> Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
> [email protected]
>

Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern, lay the
page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back of the
print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think. JG

Pops wrote:

> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it on
> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>
> I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>
> Thanks
> Craig Orput
> Cave Creek, AZ

yes- all the above. Often, I'll just tape the paper down to the wood.
If it is an intricate pattern, I'll use 3M "77" I think it is called,
a high class contact cement. If I will have to make more than one of
the same profile, I'll cut one on the scroll saw using 1/4 inch
plywood, or maybe masonite. Than, I mark from that. If you want some
sort of accuracy, and a nice surface finish, use that hunk of 1/4 inch
plywood along with a flush trim router bit.

If you can not print out full size off your computer, print out small
than use the old system of grids. Draw a series of lines on the
pattern, than a larger series on lines on your workpeice.

What a crummy explanation that was. email me if you need further
enlightenment. Though I bet you will have 10 other replies by
morning.


-Dan


On Tue, 04 Nov 2003 04:31:19 GMT, "Pops" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it on
>my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
>How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
>and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
>the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>
>I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>
>Thanks
>Craig Orput
>Cave Creek, AZ
>
>

On 3-Nov-2003, [email protected] (Dan Valleskey) wrote:

> If you can not print out full size off your computer, print out small
> than use the old system of grids. Draw a series of lines on the
> pattern, than a larger series on lines on your workpeice.

Or use a pantograph.

Mike

In article <[email protected]>, JGS <[email protected]> wrote:
> Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern, lay the
>page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back of the
>print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think. JG
>
Note that this will mirror-reverse the pattern. For symmetrical patterns, this
obviously isn't a problem, but if the pattern is asymmetrical, you'll want to
invert it with your graphics program before you print it.

The same method works if you have an ink-jet printer, too -- just photocopy
the printed pattern before ironing.

>Pops wrote:
>
>> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it on
>> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>>
>> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
>> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
>> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>>
>> I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Craig Orput
>> Cave Creek, AZ
>

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

"Pops" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it
on
> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>
> I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.

If you can't find carbon paper in this day and age, simply rub a soft pencil
over the *back* of the paper where the lines are, tape the pattern in place
and trace over the lines with a ballpoint pen.
-- Ernie

Yes, it sure does work, also works with photocopies as well.

"Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote
>
>: Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern, lay
>the
>: page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back of
>the
>: print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think.
>
>JGS rightly expresses some doubt.
>
>It would be interesting to know whether anyone has actually been able to
>make a laser printer do this?
>
>Jeff G

It looks like the 3 leading methods here are:

1. Carbon paper and trace the design. With my shaky hands, not sure I want
to use this method. I shake enough when I saw!
2. Glue the pattern down with 3M77 or other rubber cement.
3. Iron on from printed pattern.

Question: What do options 2 & 3 do to the wood. Does the glue absorb and
stain? Does the iron "burn" the wood to a different color?

Thanks
Pops

"Sprog" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yes, it sure does work, also works with photocopies as well.
>
> "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote
> >
> >: Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern,
lay
> >the
> >: page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back
of
> >the
> >: print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think.
> >
> >JGS rightly expresses some doubt.
> >
> >It would be interesting to know whether anyone has actually been able to
> >make a laser printer do this?
> >
> >Jeff G
>

In article <[email protected]>, "Jeff Gorman" <[email protected]> wrote:
>"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote
>: Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern, lay the
>: page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back of the
>: print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think.
>
>JGS rightly expresses some doubt.
>
>It would be interesting to know whether anyone has actually been able to
>make a laser printer do this?

Earlier in this thread, I suggested that those who don't have a laser printer
could photocopy the output from an inkjet printer, and transfer the
photocopied image to the wood. That suggestion was not mere idle speculation;
I've actually done that twice, and it works fine. Since laser printers and
dry-toner photocopiers use basically the same process for imprinting images on
paper, there is no reason to suppose that it would not work for a laser
printer. Indeed, I applied the same reasoning in reverse when I assumed that,
if it would work with a laser printer (as had been posted here a couple years
ago), then it would surely work with a dry-toner copier. And it does.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

Carbon paper under the pattern.

And the best part of the whole thing is that you get to buy another "tool"
(Iron) for the workshop!

"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:9qrqb.7905$P%[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Jeff Gorman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
> >"JGS" <[email protected]> wrote
> >: Suggest you try this if you have a laser printer. Print the pattern,
lay the
> >: page face down on the wood, use an iron set at cotton and iron the back
of the
> >: print. The pattern is transferred to the wood, I think.
> >
> >JGS rightly expresses some doubt.
> >
> >It would be interesting to know whether anyone has actually been able to
> >make a laser printer do this?
>
> Earlier in this thread, I suggested that those who don't have a laser
printer
> could photocopy the output from an inkjet printer, and transfer the
> photocopied image to the wood. That suggestion was not mere idle
speculation;
> I've actually done that twice, and it works fine. Since laser printers and
> dry-toner photocopiers use basically the same process for imprinting
images on
> paper, there is no reason to suppose that it would not work for a laser
> printer. Indeed, I applied the same reasoning in reverse when I assumed
that,
> if it would work with a laser printer (as had been posted here a couple
years
> ago), then it would surely work with a dry-toner copier. And it does.
>
> --
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for
Miss America?

In article <[email protected]>,
Ernie Jurick <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Pops" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it
>on
>> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>>
>> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
>> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
>> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>>
>> I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>
>If you can't find carbon paper in this day and age, simply rub a soft pencil
>over the *back* of the paper where the lines are, tape the pattern in place
>and trace over the lines with a ballpoint pen.
>-- Ernie
>
>

I don't remember where to credit this idea, but a used plain-paper fax
machine cartridge (the type that has 2 rolls of what looks like carbon
paper) is a good source for long long lengths of carbon paper.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]

3m Spray adhesive.

Cut the pattern out - the spray it - put it on the work and cut it right
thru the paper.


"Pops" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it
on
> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>
> I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>
> Thanks
> Craig Orput
> Cave Creek, AZ
>
>

"Rob V" <[email protected]> wrote in news:LXGpb.52617$v82.2749293
@twister.southeast.rr.com:

> 3m Spray adhesive.
>
> Cut the pattern out - the spray it - put it on the work and cut it right
> thru the paper.
>
>

I have used rubber cement to accomplish the same thing.

r



> "Pops" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew
it
> on
>> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>>
>> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the
pattern
>> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and
cut
>> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>>
>> I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Craig Orput
>> Cave Creek, AZ
>>
>>
>
>
>
>



--
Nothing beats the bandwidth of a station wagon filled with DLT tapes.

"Pops" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it
on
> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?

There are a couple of ways. If you think you will be building another or
using that design in the future, trace it onto a piece of masonite of 1/4"
plywood. Then cut the template and trace it onto the finished wood.

If you don't need a template, just trace it onto the wood using carbon
paper. (remember that stuff?) You may have to lay a couple of sheets side
by side to get the length you need.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

In article <[email protected]>, "Pops" <[email protected]> wrote:
>It looks like the 3 leading methods here are:
>
>1. Carbon paper and trace the design. With my shaky hands, not sure I want
>to use this method. I shake enough when I saw!

Cut back on the coffee! :-)

>2. Glue the pattern down with 3M77 or other rubber cement.
>3. Iron on from printed pattern.
>
>Question: What do options 2 & 3 do to the wood. Does the glue absorb and
>stain? Does the iron "burn" the wood to a different color?
>
SWMBO and our 12-yo son have done a fair amount of scroll saw work, *always*
using 3M77 to hold the pattern to the wood. They use mostly native North
American hardwoods, and some holly and purpleheart. AFAIK, they have *never*
had any problems with the adhesive staining the wood. I suppose that might be
a problem with some of the oily tropical woods, but that's just a guess.

I'm sure that you could burn wood with an iron if you left it in one place
long enough, but I haven't had a problem with that. I use the "cotton" setting
on the iron, and keep it moving around -- just like you would to avoid
scorching a shirt. It doesn't take long at all. Note that it *does* take more
pressure than you would use ironing a shirt, to transfer a pattern to a board.

--
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

How come we choose from just two people to run for president and 50 for Miss America?

"Pops" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it
on
> my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
> How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
> and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
> the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>
> I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>
> Thanks
> Craig Orput
> Cave Creek, AZ
>

I also use 3m spray adhesive and glue the pattern right to the stock. But
for really intricate work, I import the pattern into our cam software at
work. Then I cut an exact template out of .09 thick steel on our waterjet. I
roughly saw the shape out of the stock, then using double stick tape I tape
the steel template to my stock. Using a flush cutting router bit, I get
exact copies everytime.

"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message

> >
> Note that this will mirror-reverse the pattern. For symmetrical patterns,
this
> obviously isn't a problem, but if the pattern is asymmetrical, you'll want
to
> invert it with your graphics program before you print it.


Or simply iron it on to the back side of the board.

On Tue, 04 Nov 2003 04:31:19 GMT, "Pops" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it on
>my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
>How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
>and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
>the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?

You could do it that way.

Or, you could put a piece of carbon paper between the pattern
and the wood and trace the pattern.

On Tue, 04 Nov 2003 04:31:19 GMT, "Pops" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I am building a cabinet and the top has a scalloped look to it. I drew it on
>my computer to actual size. Now I need to transfer it to my wood.
>
>How do you guys do that? Do you print on thick stock, cut out the pattern
>and then use it as a stencil? Do you tape the pattern to the wood and cut
>the pattern? Do you free hand off of what you did on the computer?
>
>I will be using my Bosch jig saw to make the cut.
>
>Thanks
>Craig Orput
>Cave Creek, AZ
>


Many ways. I have carbon paper to trace patterns. A sewing pattern
wheel works. Or apply rubber cement (Elmers makes a good one) to the
pattern and stick it to the wood.

"Pops" <[email protected]> writes:

[...]

> 3. Iron on from printed pattern.
>
> Question: What do options 2 & 3 do to the wood. Does the glue absorb and
> stain? Does the iron "burn" the wood to a different color?

No, an iron does not. I ironed a few thin shavings (spruce and ivy) to
make fancy bookmarks (first wetting the shavings with a plant mister,
then ironing them flat and finally laminating them to keep them flat),
and even on the hottest setting no discoloration was visible.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23