A little irritated that I can't make Waterlox high gloss finish work. I'm
still in test mode with this doing picture frames. I've tried wiping,
brushing, brushing, wiping, sanding between coats, etc.
It leaves streaks, looks horrible, etc.
My process is two coats of the original followed by two coats of the gloss.
The original/sealer looks like a million bucks. The gloss however doesn't.
My gut tells me to thin it a bit because it seems like it is too darn thick.
But my brain says it will dull the gloss if I do that.
Thoughts?
SH
Make sure to wait 24 hours in-between coats. I apply about six coats-
then wait a couple of weeks after the last coat for the whole thing to
cure. After that, rub with automotive swirl remover or rottenstone and
baby oil to bring out the gloss. Ive used this method with the Waterlox
in a gelled state with no problems. I use just the regular, not the
high gloss- though this method should work with both.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:15:48 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
> <I'm@work> spake:
>
>>A little irritated that I can't make Waterlox high gloss finish work. I'm
>>still in test mode with this doing picture frames. I've tried wiping,
>>brushing, brushing, wiping, sanding between coats, etc.
>>
>>It leaves streaks, looks horrible, etc.
>
> I also got streaks the one time I tried brushing Waterlox. After
> scraping it flat, I wiped on 2 or 3 more coats and the mantle looks
> great.
>
>
>>My process is two coats of the original followed by two coats of the
>>gloss.
>>
>>The original/sealer looks like a million bucks. The gloss however
>>doesn't.
>>My gut tells me to thin it a bit because it seems like it is too darn
>>thick.
>>But my brain says it will dull the gloss if I do that.
>>
>>Thoughts?
>
> Various thoughts:
>
> Warm the Waterlox prior to applying. (I now soak my house paint in a
> warm-water-filled sink prior to painting and it works really well.)
> Apply to 70° wood. If that's still too thick to brush, thin it a bit.
>
> What I'd probably do is to scrape or sand the ridges out and -wipe- on
> 3 more coats, but I'm a medium sheen lover, not a glosser.
I'm a wiper myself. The stuff is too thick to apply with a rag. It's just
too thick period. I'll try the warm it up method. I'm also a medium sheen
guy. But every once in a while someone wants something glossed. Like this
damn picture frame! Sheesh.
Thanksabunch.
SH
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:08:51 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
> <I'm@work> spake:
>
>>I'm a wiper myself. The stuff is too thick to apply with a rag. It's
>>just
>>too thick period. I'll try the warm it up method. I'm also a medium
>>sheen
>>guy. But every once in a while someone wants something glossed. Like
>>this
>>damn picture frame! Sheesh.
>>
>>Thanksabunch.
>
> Too thick? Fresh, Original Med. sheen is like 10-weight oil!
> Did you let yours sit open too long and it gelled on you?
Yep. Butt, even when the jug was new, it still seemed to thick.
You
> need to use a de-oxydizer (such as Bloxygen) to keep that from
> happening.
I have a bottle on order now.
>
> Perhaps the extra solids (39 vs. 27%) in the high-gloss thicken
> it up and a bit of thinner would help. I'm curious myself and
> have just sent a query to Waterlox. I'll post their reply when
> I get it.
Thanks again.
SH
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 07 Jun 2005 21:02:09 -0700, the inscrutable Larry Jaques
> <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> spake:
>
>>On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:08:51 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
>><I'm@work> spake:
>>
>>>I'm a wiper myself. The stuff is too thick to apply with a rag. It's
>>>just
>>>too thick period. I'll try the warm it up method. I'm also a medium
>>>sheen
>
>>Perhaps the extra solids (39 vs. 27%) in the high-gloss thicken
>>it up and a bit of thinner would help. I'm curious myself and
>>have just sent a query to Waterlox. I'll post their reply when
>>I get it.
>
> Here are the two replies I got from David Zarzour at Waterlox:
> --snip--
> Dear Larry:
>
> Thanks for writing us... Sorry that you have had a problem. First,
> are you sure that the can has turned to a gel, and not just formed a
> skin on the top? If a skin forms, simply remove it or poke through it,
> and pour the liquid Waterlox into another container and it should be
> just fine. You may want to pour it through a disposable strainer that
> you can find in any paint store ( an old nylon stocking will work
> too!)
>
> If it has gelled though, there is not much that can be done...An
> unopened or partially used can of Waterlox has an indefinite shelf
> life. However, Waterlox dries through oxidation. When a container is
> opened, it is exposed to oxygen. Also, when a partially used container
> closed, air in the closed container can cause the remaining unused
> portion to harden.
>
> Oxidation is the same thing that makes red wine go bad once it is
> opened. We want you to use every drop of Waterlox Tung Oil products
> on your beautiful wood floors and furniture, NOT have it dry out while
> sitting in the can!
>
> In the future, for the best results, pour out the Waterlox that you
> need to do the job, and promptly reseal the container (replace both
> the metal seal and screw top). It is also a good idea to remove the
> oxygen in the can by any one of the methods discussed below. It may
> seem like a lot of fuss, but hey, we're talking about WATERLOX here!
>
> * Transfer unused portions of Waterlox to smaller, air-tight, tightly
> sealed jars or cans
> * Raise the level in the original container by adding clean marbles or
> clean stones to the container.
> * Squeeze the sides of the can together to move the liquid to the top
> of the can, displacing the oxygen.
> * There is also a product called Bloxygen an inert gas that displaces
> the oxygen to the container. (If you save just one half of a can of
> our product, it pays for itself!)
>
> We even had a guy tell us that he blows into the can (you exhale
> carbon dioxide) I don't know if we want to get that "up close and
> personal" with our products, but you get the idea: Less oxygen, better
> Waterlox.
>
> I hope this helps
>
> David Zarzour
> Marketing Coordinator
> Waterlox Coatings Corp
> --snip--
>
> I then asked again about the viscosity differences and thinning:
> --snip--
> Our Gloss is a little thicker and has higher solids than our Sealer
> Finish, but if your friend says that his is too thick to wipe on, it
> has probably gelled, and thinner will not bring it back. You can thin
> our products with any mineral spirit, up to 10%.
The stuff only gelled at the top. I did poke through to get through the
"skin". Bloxy is on order, I will warm the stuff and thin it no more than
10% before application. Think I'll try Bob's advice too on the automotive
polish rubout.
I think that cuts to the chase so to speak. Thanks again Larry for helping
out here on my waterlox dillemma!
OT but it's sposed to rain in Astoria tomorrow so get your umbrella out for
Saturday.
SH - The *weather* you like it or not woodworker
"Slowhand" <I'm@work> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> A little irritated that I can't make Waterlox high gloss finish work. I'm
> still in test mode with this doing picture frames. I've tried wiping,
> brushing, brushing, wiping, sanding between coats, etc.
>
> It leaves streaks, looks horrible, etc.
>
> My process is two coats of the original followed by two coats of the
gloss.
>
> The original/sealer looks like a million bucks. The gloss however
doesn't.
> My gut tells me to thin it a bit because it seems like it is too darn
thick.
> But my brain says it will dull the gloss if I do that.
>
> Thoughts?
Got tooth? Maybe the higher viscosity coats can't adhere to the surface
slickened by the sealcoats.
"John B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Interesting ................
> Haven't heard of warming paint in years, Guess since the water based
> stuff took over from the oil.
> My Grandfather used to paint his cars with a brush and would hang the
> paint can in a tub of hot water. Oil based paint. The brush marks would
> just disappear and the gloss was wonderful, better than the original
> spray jobs.
> Just an aside :)
Yep, as a viscosity reducer, heat works. It'd work better still with tooth.
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:15:48 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
> <I'm@work> spake:
>
>
>>A little irritated that I can't make Waterlox high gloss finish work. I'm
>>still in test mode with this doing picture frames. I've tried wiping,
>>brushing, brushing, wiping, sanding between coats, etc.
>>
>>It leaves streaks, looks horrible, etc.
>
>
> I also got streaks the one time I tried brushing Waterlox. After
> scraping it flat, I wiped on 2 or 3 more coats and the mantle looks
> great.
>
>
>
>>My process is two coats of the original followed by two coats of the gloss.
>>
>>The original/sealer looks like a million bucks. The gloss however doesn't.
>>My gut tells me to thin it a bit because it seems like it is too darn thick.
>>But my brain says it will dull the gloss if I do that.
>>
>>Thoughts?
>
>
> Various thoughts:
>
> Warm the Waterlox prior to applying. (I now soak my house paint in a
> warm-water-filled sink prior to painting and it works really well.)
> Apply to 70° wood. If that's still too thick to brush, thin it a bit.
>
> What I'd probably do is to scrape or sand the ridges out and -wipe- on
> 3 more coats, but I'm a medium sheen lover, not a glosser.
>
> "Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
Interesting ................
Haven't heard of warming paint in years, Guess since the water based
stuff took over from the oil.
My Grandfather used to paint his cars with a brush and would hang the
paint can in a tub of hot water. Oil based paint. The brush marks would
just disappear and the gloss was wonderful, better than the original
spray jobs.
Just an aside :)
regards
John
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> You're in the Portland (PNW) weather stream. We don't get NEARLY as
> much rain down here in our little valley. I don't see rain in the
> forecast until next Weds.
>
Forecast??! Weather guessing in the PNW's mostly a crapshoot, at best
(you're south, in Medford or GP, right? -- so might be a little better down
there ..)
Here in pdx I have about as much luck by looking out the window to the
west....
Regards,
JT
Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Same here sometimes. Orygun weather DO change a mite, wot?
>
Yep. speshully in the spring, summer, fall, and winter ..
(I think we only get ~24" here in pdx ... but thats just from memory)
Regards,
JT
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:48:44 +0000 (UTC), the inscrutable John Thomas
<[email protected]> spake:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> Same here sometimes. Orygun weather DO change a mite, wot?
>>
>
>Yep. speshully in the spring, summer, fall, and winter ..
In GP, the late spring/summer/early fall are just like LoCal.
Hot, sunny, cloudless, and rainless for at least 5 months
without a break.
>(I think we only get ~24" here in pdx ... but thats just from memory)
That's why it is always raining up there. SOMEONE lost the leading
digit (124".)
---
Chaos, panic, and disorder--my work here is done.
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:15:48 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
<I'm@work> spake:
>A little irritated that I can't make Waterlox high gloss finish work. I'm
>still in test mode with this doing picture frames. I've tried wiping,
>brushing, brushing, wiping, sanding between coats, etc.
>
>It leaves streaks, looks horrible, etc.
I also got streaks the one time I tried brushing Waterlox. After
scraping it flat, I wiped on 2 or 3 more coats and the mantle looks
great.
>My process is two coats of the original followed by two coats of the gloss.
>
>The original/sealer looks like a million bucks. The gloss however doesn't.
>My gut tells me to thin it a bit because it seems like it is too darn thick.
>But my brain says it will dull the gloss if I do that.
>
>Thoughts?
Various thoughts:
Warm the Waterlox prior to applying. (I now soak my house paint in a
warm-water-filled sink prior to painting and it works really well.)
Apply to 70° wood. If that's still too thick to brush, thin it a bit.
What I'd probably do is to scrape or sand the ridges out and -wipe- on
3 more coats, but I'm a medium sheen lover, not a glosser.
"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:08:51 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
<I'm@work> spake:
>I'm a wiper myself. The stuff is too thick to apply with a rag. It's just
>too thick period. I'll try the warm it up method. I'm also a medium sheen
>guy. But every once in a while someone wants something glossed. Like this
>damn picture frame! Sheesh.
>
>Thanksabunch.
Too thick? Fresh, Original Med. sheen is like 10-weight oil!
Did you let yours sit open too long and it gelled on you? You
need to use a de-oxydizer (such as Bloxygen) to keep that from
happening.
Perhaps the extra solids (39 vs. 27%) in the high-gloss thicken
it up and a bit of thinner would help. I'm curious myself and
have just sent a query to Waterlox. I'll post their reply when
I get it.
"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
On Tue, 07 Jun 2005 21:02:09 -0700, the inscrutable Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> spake:
>On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:08:51 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
><I'm@work> spake:
>
>>I'm a wiper myself. The stuff is too thick to apply with a rag. It's just
>>too thick period. I'll try the warm it up method. I'm also a medium sheen
>Perhaps the extra solids (39 vs. 27%) in the high-gloss thicken
>it up and a bit of thinner would help. I'm curious myself and
>have just sent a query to Waterlox. I'll post their reply when
>I get it.
Here are the two replies I got from David Zarzour at Waterlox:
--snip--
Dear Larry:
Thanks for writing us... Sorry that you have had a problem. First,
are you sure that the can has turned to a gel, and not just formed a
skin on the top? If a skin forms, simply remove it or poke through it,
and pour the liquid Waterlox into another container and it should be
just fine. You may want to pour it through a disposable strainer that
you can find in any paint store ( an old nylon stocking will work
too!)
If it has gelled though, there is not much that can be done...An
unopened or partially used can of Waterlox has an indefinite shelf
life. However, Waterlox dries through oxidation. When a container is
opened, it is exposed to oxygen. Also, when a partially used container
closed, air in the closed container can cause the remaining unused
portion to harden.
Oxidation is the same thing that makes red wine go bad once it is
opened. We want you to use every drop of Waterlox Tung Oil products
on your beautiful wood floors and furniture, NOT have it dry out while
sitting in the can!
In the future, for the best results, pour out the Waterlox that you
need to do the job, and promptly reseal the container (replace both
the metal seal and screw top). It is also a good idea to remove the
oxygen in the can by any one of the methods discussed below. It may
seem like a lot of fuss, but hey, we're talking about WATERLOX here!
* Transfer unused portions of Waterlox to smaller, air-tight, tightly
sealed jars or cans
* Raise the level in the original container by adding clean marbles or
clean stones to the container.
* Squeeze the sides of the can together to move the liquid to the top
of the can, displacing the oxygen.
* There is also a product called Bloxygen an inert gas that displaces
the oxygen to the container. (If you save just one half of a can of
our product, it pays for itself!)
We even had a guy tell us that he blows into the can (you exhale
carbon dioxide) I don't know if we want to get that "up close and
personal" with our products, but you get the idea: Less oxygen, better
Waterlox.
I hope this helps
David Zarzour
Marketing Coordinator
Waterlox Coatings Corp
--snip--
I then asked again about the viscosity differences and thinning:
--snip--
Our Gloss is a little thicker and has higher solids than our Sealer
Finish, but if your friend says that his is too thick to wipe on, it
has probably gelled, and thinner will not bring it back. You can thin
our products with any mineral spirit, up to 10%.
/dz
mc
wcc
--snip--
"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 19:34:22 +0000 (UTC), the inscrutable John Thomas
<[email protected]> spake:
>Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> You're in the Portland (PNW) weather stream. We don't get NEARLY as
>> much rain down here in our little valley. I don't see rain in the
>> forecast until next Weds.
>>
>Forecast??! Weather guessing in the PNW's mostly a crapshoot, at best
>(you're south, in Medford or GP, right? -- so might be a little better down
>there ..)
Grass Pants. My Rogue Valley gets much less rain than the coast or
youse guys north of it. 32 inches annually is enough.
>Here in pdx I have about as much luck by looking out the window to the
>west....
Same here sometimes. Orygun weather DO change a mite, wot?
---
Chaos, panic, and disorder--my work here is done.
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 05:28:00 GMT, the inscrutable John B
<[email protected]> spake:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>> Warm the Waterlox prior to applying. (I now soak my house paint in a
>> warm-water-filled sink prior to painting and it works really well.)
>> Apply to 70° wood. If that's still too thick to brush, thin it a bit.
>Interesting ................
>Haven't heard of warming paint in years, Guess since the water based
>stuff took over from the oil.
>My Grandfather used to paint his cars with a brush and would hang the
>paint can in a tub of hot water. Oil based paint. The brush marks would
>just disappear and the gloss was wonderful, better than the original
>spray jobs.
>Just an aside :)
Hey, I'm in good company!
I figured out that one way to make the paint flow into the "paint
stick" tube more easily was to heat it after noticing how thick it
got in the colder shop. Since the paint appeared to be temperature
sensitive, I warmed some in the sink. It became half as thick after it
got above room temperature. It also leveled better. It's simple to
warm gallons in the kitchen sink, too. Soak for 10 minutes, shake the
can, rewarm the water; Repeat twice and it moves from a honey-like
substance into a much more watery substance!
"Be the change you want to see in the world." --Mahatma Gandhi
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
http://diversify.com Website Application Programming
On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 09:03:35 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"
<I'm@work> spake:
>> David Zarzour
>> Marketing Coordinator
>> Waterlox Coatings Corp
>> Our Gloss is a little thicker and has higher solids than our Sealer
>> Finish, but if your friend says that his is too thick to wipe on, it
>> has probably gelled, and thinner will not bring it back. You can thin
>> our products with any mineral spirit, up to 10%.
>
>The stuff only gelled at the top. I did poke through to get through the
So why didn't you SAY so? <sigh> Once it skins on top, the rest tends
to gel. Once thicker, it won't wipe nearly as well. DAMHIKT.
>"skin". Bloxy is on order, I will warm the stuff and thin it no more than
>10% before application. Think I'll try Bob's advice too on the automotive
>polish rubout.
With an 85% gloss factor, you probably won't have much to rub out.
>I think that cuts to the chase so to speak. Thanks again Larry for helping
>out here on my waterlox dillemma!
De nada.
>OT but it's sposed to rain in Astoria tomorrow so get your umbrella out for
>Saturday.
>SH - The *weather* you like it or not woodworker
You're in the Portland (PNW) weather stream. We don't get NEARLY as
much rain down here in our little valley. I don't see rain in the
forecast until next Weds.
--
To change one's self is sufficient. It's the idiots who want to change
the world who are causing all the trouble --Anonymous
----------------------------------------------------------------------
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