"[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new (I
> love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding the
> ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I square the
> ends of the mortises?
The Woodrat looks like a mill machine with the sliding table upside down,
and some other modifications for woodworking. Pretty cool.
"[email protected]" wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my
> new (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for
> rounding the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or
> should I square the ends of the mortises?
A 10" flat bastard file and a little elbow grease knocks off the
corners of a tenon for me.
YMMV
Lew
I wrote:
> A 10" flat bastard file and a little elbow grease knocks off the
> corners of a tenon for me.
---------------------------------------------------
Tonight was a rerun of an outdoor teak love seat Norm built a few
years ago.
Lots of M/T joints forming joints that were not 90 degrees.
How did he round over the tenons?
A 4-In-Hand rather than a flat bastard file, but the elbow grease was
still there.
Lew
"Swingman" wrote:
> Your choice ... but factor into your decision the fact that your
> joint strength will basically come from the face to face surface
> glue area on the sides of your tenons and mortises, not necessarily
> from tenons perfectly rounded to fit the rounded mortise ends.
Precisely.
As to the relative strength of each, from a 1,000 feet, a flying red
horse can't tell the difference.
Lew
"Steve Turner" wrote:
>What's that rule? The walls of the mortise shouldn't be any thinner
>than the thickness of the tenon? For example, a M&T joint in 3/4"
>stock shouldn't have a tenon any thicker than 1/4"; Zat sound right?
A guide from my days doing machine design.
Allow the tenon to be 50% of the stock thickness which means the
cheeks of the mortise will each be 25% of the stock thickness.
Based on the above, for a piece of 3/4" stock, the tenon would be 3/8"
thick and each cheek will be 3/16" thick.
The cheeks and the tenon equally share the load, thus have equal total
thickness.
Works for me.
YMMV
Lew
Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix),
only to mess it up with a rasp.
http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
Makes more esthetic, but not necessarily practical sense, to square up
the mortice.
Notwithstanding, it is a hell of lot harder to square a deep inside
cut than to round over an outside one.
***************************************************************************=
******
On Dec 12, 4:00=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. =A0What's the preferred method for rounding
> the ends of the tenons? =A0I've got about a dozen to do. =A0Or should I
> square the ends of the mortises?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:58:44 -0600, Steve Turner
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Gordon Shumway wrote:
>> On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:00:42 -0600, "[email protected]"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
>>> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
>>> the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
>>> square the ends of the mortises?
>>>
>>> TIA
>>>
>>> Larry
>>
>> Which way would be easiest for you?
>>
>> The only time I think it makes a difference is if the tenon end will
>> be exposed or even extend beyond the other face. In that case I would
>> square the mortise.
>
>In most cases the major face of a tenon is making long grain contact with a
>corresponding long grain mating surface in the mortise (and we all know that
>long grain mating surfaces make the strongest glue joints), whereas the narrow
>face of the tenon is usually mating with end grain in the mortise. Whether it
>really matters depends on the particular joint, but rounding the tenons does
>steal away a bit of the long grain to long grain contact, thus yielding a less
>than "perfect" joint. Personally, I always square up my mortises and tenons.
Hey, how do you spell the "raspberry" sound? :-)
Gordon Shumway
Our Constitution needs to be used less as a shield
for the guilty and more as a sword for the victim.
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 15:23:33 -0600, the infamous -MIKE-
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>routerman wrote:
>> Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix),
>> only to mess it up with a rasp.
>
>I'm sorry, are these not going to be covered in glue and hidden for
>eternity?
So, it's OK for GM to use untempered Chiwanese steel for head bolts on
your new pickemup truck's engine? They'll be covered in oil and
hidden under the rocker covers for...days?
Now go wash those impure thoughts out of your mind, young man.
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
Interesting, I would have thought they would make rounded tenons. I
know that is how the Leigh FMT works.
If you will square the slotted mortises you can make a cool tool that
I learned about from Darrell Peart. Use the chisel from a square
chisel mortiser as a hand tool to square up the ends. I think Darrell
is having Leigh Valley or Lei Neilson or someone like that produce
them commercially. I have a few ideas myself of improvememts by adding
an extension that fits in the slot to line it up and an adjustment so
you can hold it a specified distance from the rounded end. I am
watching ebay for a super deal on square chisels. I've misswd two good
deals because ai was too busy to watch the auction closely.
On Dec 12, 4:00=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. =A0What's the preferred method for rounding
> the ends of the tenons? =A0I've got about a dozen to do. =A0Or should I
> square the ends of the mortises?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
Chris Friesen wrote:
> On 12/12/2009 06:00 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
>> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
>> the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
>> square the ends of the mortises?
>
> This paper from the "Dept. of Forest Industrial Engineering" in Turkey
> shows square-ended mortise/tenon joints to be about 15% stronger on
> average than round ended ones.
>
> http://journals.tubitak.gov.tr/agriculture/issues/tar-05-29-6/tar-29-6-8-0412-16.pdf
The last test by "Fine Woodworking" shows 3/8", square cornered,
traditional M&T joints to be only roughly 3.5% stronger than round
cornered, 3/8" loose tenons.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/fwnpdf/011203036.pdf
Somebody is obviously full of it ... ;)
Either test notwithstanding, IME, it is nothing to be concerned with.
AAMOF, the 3/8", rounded corner, loose tenon joint is almost twice as
strong as the ubiquitous 1/4", square cornered, traditional M&T joint.
> Likely not going to be the deciding factor in the design, but if
> you're borderline on strength you might want to go for the square
> ends.
Not to nitpick, but in that case I personally would first consider a
thicker mortise and tenon if possible.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Dec 14, 9:01=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > Come join Swingman and I down that slippery sloap. =A0LOL
>
> Sloap: =A0A soap like material that is used on a slope to make it slipper=
y.
> ;~)
Lol!! Good thing I wasn't drinking coffee just now.
On Dec 14, 8:55=A0am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:e4e6d18a-74df-4354-978e-388ff841468d@m26g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
> On Dec 12, 7:00 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> > (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
> > the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
> > square the ends of the mortises?
>
> > TIA
>
> > Larry
>
> Easy, =A0Use a router in a table and a round over bit. =A0Oh wait... I us=
e
> floating tenons. =A0 Never mind.
>
> There you go, floating tennons. =A0Round over bit =A0for a tennon that is=
part
> of the end of a board, hard to do the entire length, the sholder will be =
the
> limiting factor.
>
> Since you are already using floating tennons you =A0should go ahead and b=
uy
> your Festool Domino now. =A0I have had mine about 2.5 years now and was n=
ot
> totally sure how much I would use it. =A0Counting the tennons I have purc=
hased
> and used so far I have cut nearely 2,000 mortises with the Domino. =A0Tha=
t is
> an average of about 16 mortises every week. =A0You will find yourself usi=
ng
> floating tennons more and more.
>
> Come join Swingman and I down that slippery sloap. =A0LOL
Tempting. Very tempting. I'm actually considering building a
horizontal mortiser with Z axis control.
Larry Jaques wrote:
> P.S: I see the word "chord" in the referenced text there. You must
> have been thinking ahead to this conversation when you last used it.
I'm a musician by nature, what can I say ... one of those who sees
triads in the birds sitting on various electrical lines.
It's a curse ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 08:01:51 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>
>> Come join Swingman and I down that slippery sloap. LOL
>
>
>Sloap: A soap like material that is used on a slope to make it slippery.
>;~)
S/B "Swingman and me", too. When you say the people individually, it
becomes clear. "Come join Swingman down that slippery slope." and
"Come join me down that slippery slope."
Hmm, inviting guys to play with the sloap with you? No comment.
<knowing grinne>
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
Gordon Shumway wrote:
>
> Hey, how do you spell the "raspberry" sound? :-)
Somewhere in a dark corner of my mind I seem to remember a published
test where rounded mortise and tenons actually fared better than squared.
What will really frost any anal about their M&T "fit" is seeing x-rays
of some very sloppy old M&T joints in antique furniture, and from some
of the more famous woodworkers.
Scare the hell out of you ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
Larry Jaques wrote:
> Remember David Marks playing with that $3500 multirouter thang? Cool
> toy, could be built for 10 cents on the dollar. David sells it for
> $2695 now http://www.djmarks.com/multirouter.asp
Here's mine ... scroll down to "Mortises in curved work, "Method 1"":
http://www.e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm
One of the most productive tools in a productive shop ... it's paid for
itself a few times over in the time it would have taken me to build one
for "10 cents on the dollar", and undoubtably will a few times more.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Fess up! Where'd you see the x-rays of those, Swingy? We wanna see,
> too!
Interesting to see. Swingman showed me a few weeks ago. Almost shocking as
to the lack of uniformity inside those joints.
On 12/12/2009 06:00 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
> the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
> square the ends of the mortises?
This paper from the "Dept. of Forest Industrial Engineering" in Turkey
shows square-ended mortise/tenon joints to be about 15% stronger on
average than round ended ones.
http://journals.tubitak.gov.tr/agriculture/issues/tar-05-29-6/tar-29-6-8-0412-16.pdf
Likely not going to be the deciding factor in the design, but if you're
borderline on strength you might want to go for the square ends.
Chris
Steve Turner wrote:
> Swingman wrote:
>> Chris Friesen wrote:
>> > Likely not going to be the deciding factor in the design, but if
>> > you're borderline on strength you might want to go for the square
>> > ends.
>>
>> Not to nitpick, but in that case I personally would first consider a
>> thicker mortise and tenon if possible.
>
> Likewise on the nitpick, but before you increase the thickness of the
> tenon first consider the wall thickness of the mortised piece. The
> tenon isn't the only part of the joint that can fail.
"if possible" ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On 12/14/2009 10:19 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
> What's that rule? The walls of the mortise shouldn't be any thinner than the
> thickness of the tenon? For example, a M&T joint in 3/4" stock shouldn't have
> a tenon any thicker than 1/4"; Zat sound right?
For machine cut mortises, the walls of the mortise combined shouldn't be
thinner than the thickness of the tenon. This equalizes the amount of
wood in each component. For 3/4" stock, the tenon should be 3/8".
For hand-cut mortises, you'll often see the 1/3" rule, which results in
1/4" tenons. There are two reasons given for this: 1) hand cutting is
harder on the piece being mortised, so this gives a bit more wall
strength, and 2) it's quicker to cut a 1/4" mortise since you're
removing only half the material.
And note that it's the thickness of the piece being mortised that is the
main criteria here...there's no real downside of having a fat tenon on
the piece being tenoned as long as there is still some shoulder left.
So if you have a table apron joining with a thicker leg, you can use a
tenon thicker than half the thickness of the apron.
Chris
[email protected] wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
> the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
> square the ends of the mortises?
Your choice ... but factor into your decision the fact that your joint
strength will basically come from the face to face surface glue area on
the sides of your tenons and mortises, not necessarily from tenons
perfectly rounded to fit the rounded mortise ends.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)
On Dec 12, 7:00=A0pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. =A0What's the preferred method for rounding
> the ends of the tenons? =A0I've got about a dozen to do. =A0Or should I
> square the ends of the mortises?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
Easy, Use a router in a table and a round over bit. Oh wait... I use
floating tenons. Never mind.
[email protected] wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
> the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
> square the ends of the mortises?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
Everybody has their preference. On my current project (a simple desk
table -- pictures coming in a couple weeks), I tried the rounded tenon
approach on a couple of the joints. I decided that for me, squaring the
mortise with chisel was faster and more precise than trying to round the
tenons. So, about 1 1/2 tenons were rounded, the rest had the mortises
squared.
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 14:55:26 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Swingman" wrote:
>
>> Your choice ... but factor into your decision the fact that your
>> joint strength will basically come from the face to face surface
>> glue area on the sides of your tenons and mortises, not necessarily
>> from tenons perfectly rounded to fit the rounded mortise ends.
>
>Precisely.
>
>As to the relative strength of each, from a 1,000 feet, a flying red
>horse can't tell the difference.
P'raps not, Lew, but wouldn't you really rather have the squared
tenons if you were seated on the wagon behind said flying horse?
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:25:26 -0600, the infamous Swingman
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Gordon Shumway wrote:
>
>>
>> Hey, how do you spell the "raspberry" sound? :-)
>
>Somewhere in a dark corner of my mind I seem to remember a published
>test where rounded mortise and tenons actually fared better than squared.
>
>What will really frost any anal about their M&T "fit" is seeing x-rays
>of some very sloppy old M&T joints in antique furniture, and from some
>of the more famous woodworkers.
>
>Scare the hell out of you ...
Fess up! Where'd you see the x-rays of those, Swingy? We wanna see,
too!
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
routerman wrote:
> Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix),
> only to mess it up with a rasp.
I'm sorry, are these not going to be covered in glue and hidden for
eternity?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
routerman wrote:
> Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix),
> only to mess it up with a rasp.
> http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
The tenon on the left appears round to me. YMMV :-D
If a router is used with a template that produces round-end tenons that
exactly fit a round-end mortise, where is the lack of perfection?
> Makes more esthetic, but not necessarily practical sense, to square up
> the mortice.
How and why so?
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Gordon Shumway wrote:
> On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:00:42 -0600, "[email protected]"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
>> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
>> the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
>> square the ends of the mortises?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Larry
>
> Which way would be easiest for you?
>
> The only time I think it makes a difference is if the tenon end will
> be exposed or even extend beyond the other face. In that case I would
> square the mortise.
In most cases the major face of a tenon is making long grain contact with a
corresponding long grain mating surface in the mortise (and we all know that
long grain mating surfaces make the strongest glue joints), whereas the narrow
face of the tenon is usually mating with end grain in the mortise. Whether it
really matters depends on the particular joint, but rounding the tenons does
steal away a bit of the long grain to long grain contact, thus yielding a less
than "perfect" joint. Personally, I always square up my mortises and tenons.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Swingman wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my
>> new (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for
>> rounding the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or
>> should I square the ends of the mortises?
>
> Your choice ... but factor into your decision the fact that your joint
> strength will basically come from the face to face surface glue area on
> the sides of your tenons and mortises, not necessarily from tenons
> perfectly rounded to fit the rounded mortise ends.
Hey! I promise I hadn't seen your post before I sent mine off. I just said
basically the same thing using entirely different words. :-)
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Swingman wrote:
> Gordon Shumway wrote:
>
>>
>> Hey, how do you spell the "raspberry" sound? :-)
>
> Somewhere in a dark corner of my mind I seem to remember a published
> test where rounded mortise and tenons actually fared better than squared.
Seems unlikely that would be true, but I guess stranger things have happened.
I would think it even less likely to hold true in the case where both faces of
the tenon approach the same dimension, the worst case being an exact square
where rounding the tenon yields a regular dowel joint. A square M&T joint is
most certainly stronger than a dowel joint, but then it's a bit of an unfair
comparison because a dowel joint is susceptible to twisting forces.
> What will really frost any anal about their M&T "fit" is seeing x-rays
> of some very sloppy old M&T joints in antique furniture, and from some
> of the more famous woodworkers.
>
> Scare the hell out of you ...
Yeah, but a mortise and tenon is a great joint to begin with, so even a sloppy
one is reasonably strong. Still no excuse for crappy workmanship though! :-)
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Swingman wrote:
> Chris Friesen wrote:
> > Likely not going to be the deciding factor in the design, but if
> > you're borderline on strength you might want to go for the square
> > ends.
>
> Not to nitpick, but in that case I personally would first consider a
> thicker mortise and tenon if possible.
Likewise on the nitpick, but before you increase the thickness of the tenon
first consider the wall thickness of the mortised piece. The tenon isn't the
only part of the joint that can fail.
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 11:55:25 -0800 (PST), the infamous routerman
> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>> Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix),
>> only to mess it up with a rasp.
>> http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
>> Makes more esthetic, but not necessarily practical sense, to square up
>> the mortice.
>
> Yeah, doesn't anyone use chisels any more?
<raises hand>
--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Swingman wrote:
> Steve Turner wrote:
>> Swingman wrote:
>>> Chris Friesen wrote:
>>> > Likely not going to be the deciding factor in the design, but if
>>> > you're borderline on strength you might want to go for the square
>>> > ends.
>>>
>>> Not to nitpick, but in that case I personally would first consider a
>>> thicker mortise and tenon if possible.
>>
>> Likewise on the nitpick, but before you increase the thickness of the
>> tenon first consider the wall thickness of the mortised piece. The
>> tenon isn't the only part of the joint that can fail.
>
> "if possible" ...
I thought about writing my response so as not to get that reply, but I was too
lazy. :-)
What's that rule? The walls of the mortise shouldn't be any thinner than the
thickness of the tenon? For example, a M&T joint in 3/4" stock shouldn't have
a tenon any thicker than 1/4"; Zat sound right?
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
routerman wrote:
> Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix),
> only to mess it up with a rasp.
> http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
> Makes more esthetic, but not necessarily practical sense, to square up
> the mortice.
> Notwithstanding, it is a hell of lot harder to square a deep inside
> cut than to round over an outside one.
>
*********************************************************************************
>
I guess I don't get that. I found rounding over to be more difficult --
making sure that I didn't accidentally apply the rasp to the shoulder,
leaving a notch that would be visible. In addition, getting the shape right
seems to be hit or miss.
>
> On Dec 12, 4:00Â pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
>> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. Â What's the preferred method for rounding
>> the ends of the tenons? Â I've got about a dozen to do. Â Or should I
>> square the ends of the mortises?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Larry
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
On Sun, 13 Dec 2009 11:55:25 -0800 (PST), the infamous routerman
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Seems a little crazy to finally produce the perfect tenon (see pix),
>only to mess it up with a rasp.
>http://patwarner.com/images/index_tenon.jpg
>Makes more esthetic, but not necessarily practical sense, to square up
>the mortice.
Yeah, doesn't anyone use chisels any more? It's also an RCH stronger
with it squared up. 'Course, I bought a Shop Fox Mortiser for that
purpose, the Normite version of a v-groove chisel.
>Notwithstanding, it is a hell of lot harder to square a deep inside
>cut than to round over an outside one.
True, but...
--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss-Poor Performance
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 18:59:08 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>"Larry Jaques" wrote:
>
>> P'raps not, Lew, but wouldn't you really rather have the squared
>> tenons if you were seated on the wagon behind said flying horse?
>
>Putty those joints with epoxy and don't sweat the small stuff or pet
>the sweaty stuff.
Aye be gar! Spoken like a true non-land-lubber, it was.
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
"GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:e4e6d18a-74df-4354-978e-388ff841468d@m26g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 12, 7:00 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
> (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
> the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
> square the ends of the mortises?
>
> TIA
>
> Larry
Easy, Use a router in a table and a round over bit. Oh wait... I use
floating tenons. Never mind.
There you go, floating tennons. Round over bit for a tennon that is part
of the end of a board, hard to do the entire length, the sholder will be the
limiting factor.
Since you are already using floating tennons you should go ahead and buy
your Festool Domino now. I have had mine about 2.5 years now and was not
totally sure how much I would use it. Counting the tennons I have purchased
and used so far I have cut nearely 2,000 mortises with the Domino. That is
an average of about 16 mortises every week. You will find yourself using
floating tennons more and more.
Come join Swingman and I down that slippery sloap. LOL
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 06:47:20 -0800 (PST), the infamous Brian Grella
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>On Dec 14, 8:55 am, "Leon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "GarageWoodworks" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:e4e6d18a-74df-4354-978e-388ff841468d@m26g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
>> On Dec 12, 7:00 pm, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> > I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
>> > (I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
>> > the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
>> > square the ends of the mortises?
>>
>> > TIA
>>
>> > Larry
>>
>> Easy, Use a router in a table and a round over bit. Oh wait... I use
>> floating tenons. Never mind.
>>
>> There you go, floating tennons. Round over bit for a tennon that is part
>> of the end of a board, hard to do the entire length, the sholder will be the
>> limiting factor.
>>
>> Since you are already using floating tennons you should go ahead and buy
>> your Festool Domino now. I have had mine about 2.5 years now and was not
>> totally sure how much I would use it. Counting the tennons I have purchased
>> and used so far I have cut nearely 2,000 mortises with the Domino. That is
>> an average of about 16 mortises every week. You will find yourself using
>> floating tennons more and more.
>>
>> Come join Swingman and I down that slippery sloap. LOL
>
>Tempting. Very tempting. I'm actually considering building a
>horizontal mortiser with Z axis control.
Remember David Marks playing with that $3500 multirouter thang? Cool
toy, could be built for 10 cents on the dollar. David sells it for
$2695 now http://www.djmarks.com/multirouter.asp
Speaking of David, I never saw this particular video:
http://fwd4.me/8Mi jigs for curvilinear wooddorking.
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------
On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:49:59 -0600, the infamous Swingman
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>> P.S: I see the word "chord" in the referenced text there. You must
>> have been thinking ahead to this conversation when you last used it.
>
>I'm a musician by nature, what can I say ... one of those who sees
>triads in the birds sitting on various electrical lines.
>
>It's a curse ...
I don't think electrical line birdies resemble the Chinese Mafia at
all.
--
Indifference to evidence: Climate alarmists have become brilliantly
adept at changing their terms to suit their convenience. So it's
"global warming" when there's a heat wave, but it's "climate change"
when there's a cold snap. The earth has registered no discernable
warming in the past 10 years: Very well then, they say, natural
variability must be the cause. But as for the warming that did occur
in the 1980s and 1990s, that plainly was evidence of man-made warming.
Am I missing something here? --Brett Stephens, WSJ Opinion 12/09/09
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:00:42 -0600, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
>(I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
>the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
>square the ends of the mortises?
>
>TIA
>
>Larry
Which way would be easiest for you?
The only time I think it makes a difference is if the tenon end will
be exposed or even extend beyond the other face. In that case I would
square the mortise.
YMMV.
Gordon Shumway
Our Constitution needs to be used less as a shield
for the guilty and more as a sword for the victim.
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:00:42 -0600, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've cut all my mortises for the kitchen cart I'm crafting using my new
>(I love this gadget) Woodrat. What's the preferred method for rounding
>the ends of the tenons? I've got about a dozen to do. Or should I
>square the ends of the mortises?
>
>TIA
>
>Larry
A steel file should round the tenons. There is a part next to the
cheek that can be removed with a small sharp chisel. Generally a
mortise is more difficult to make adjustments than a tenon.
On Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:36:39 -0600, the infamous Swingman
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>
>> Remember David Marks playing with that $3500 multirouter thang? Cool
>> toy, could be built for 10 cents on the dollar. David sells it for
>> $2695 now http://www.djmarks.com/multirouter.asp
>
>Here's mine ... scroll down to "Mortises in curved work, "Method 1"":
>
>http://www.e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm
DAYAM, dude. Do you put fully -half- of your profits back into tools
for the shop? You go first class all the way. <drool>
>One of the most productive tools in a productive shop ... it's paid for
>itself a few times over in the time it would have taken me to build one
>for "10 cents on the dollar", and undoubtably will a few times more.
I reckon so, but for us po folk...
P.S: I see the word "chord" in the referenced text there. You must
have been thinking ahead to this conversation when you last used it.
;)
--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------