My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last week it will
not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on. I removed the motor from the
DP and powered up. It still will not rotate but starts to hum again. I rotate
the pulley manually, it begins to rotate and speed up normally and the humming
stop. I switch off the motor, before it stops completely I switch the motor on
and it speeds up normally. I did another test: I turn the switch on, as it
starts humming, than I rotate opposite direction, it speeds up and again it
stops humming. Can I assume the start capacitor is bad? If, so where can, I buy
a replacement. The Capacitor is an old one; Manufacture Name": SF??? MIKE" Type
H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC"
Thanks for your help.
As a journeyman electrician and a electronics technologist. " dead cap"
or "busted centriflucle switch" no....big.......deal .... take cap and /or
motor to any electrical parts dealer... get off the shelf.
Stu
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last week it
> will
> not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on. I removed the motor
> from the
> DP and powered up. It still will not rotate but starts to hum again. I
> rotate
> the pulley manually, it begins to rotate and speed up normally and the
> humming
> stop. I switch off the motor, before it stops completely I switch the
> motor on
> and it speeds up normally. I did another test: I turn the switch on, as it
> starts humming, than I rotate opposite direction, it speeds up and again
> it
> stops humming. Can I assume the start capacitor is bad? If, so where can,
> I buy
> a replacement. The Capacitor is an old one; Manufacture Name": SF??? MIKE"
> Type
> H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC"
>
> Thanks for your help.
On 2008-09-22, N Hurst <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Sep 22, 11:26 am, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 00:06:25 -0500, Ignoramus6193
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >On 2008-09-22, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >> My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last week it will
>> >> not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on. I removed the motor from the
>> >> DP and powered up. It still will not rotate but starts to hum again. I rotate
>> >> the pulley manually, it begins to rotate and speed up normally and the humming
>> >> stop. I switch off the motor, before it stops completely I switch the motor on
>> >> and it speeds up normally. I did another test: I turn the switch on, as it
>> >> starts humming, than I rotate opposite direction, it speeds up and again it
>> >> stops humming. Can I assume the start capacitor is bad?
>>
>> >Yes.
>>
>> Thanks for your confirmation. Before I removed the motor from the DP I suspect
>> either, the bearing or carbon brush was bad. As I rotated the pulley it rotated
>> freely. I knew immediately it was the motor's start capacitor. I wish I had
>> tested my lightly used, new 8" jointer's motor in KC before I moved. It had the
>> same symptom. I sold the jointer for a song, and the buyer insisted I gave him
>> the old motor as the new motor (I kept the new Baldor motor). I bought with the
>> incorrect RPM. Thinking back, the buyer must be thinking how stupid I was.
>>
>> >> If, so where can, I buy
>> >> a replacement. The Capacitor is an old one; Manufacture Name": SF??? MIKE" Type
>> >> H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC"
>>
>> >You need to buy a replacement start capacitor of similar capacity. A
>> >few bucks plus shipping. They are plentiful, see McMaster catalog page
>> >925, for example. Item 7245K17 should work.
>>
>> I should have thought of McMaster before I posted here. However, I would like to
>> know how do you buy from McMaster? They need company names etc, and I am
>> buying for myself? I went to page 925 in McMaster, but no part 7245K17.
>>
>> Thanks for your help, any other source with a correct capacitor?
>
> Just make something up. Or you can do what I did and put in what I
> will call my company if I ever decide to start one.
> I've bought from them a number of times and they've shipped straight
> to my house, no problems.
>
> The only thing I don't like about their setup is that they don't tell
> you shipping up front, so you have to check the invoice. It's very
> reasonable, though. They're not the kind of company that will charge
> you $10 to ship a $2, if it doesn't actually cost $10 to ship it.
I have a corporation, so I did not have to make anything up, but I
would go the above suggested route. Their shipping is very much on the
low side.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
Before you go purchasing a capacitor, if you are comfortable opening up
motors, disassemble it and check out the starting switch, it may be stuck in
the open position. The mechanism may need cleaning and lubricating so that
it operates smoothly. It should be closed when stopped, and when power is
applied the motor should start with the starting switch opening as it
approaches operating speed.
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last week it
> will
> not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on. I removed the motor
> from the
> DP and powered up. It still will not rotate but starts to hum again. I
> rotate
> the pulley manually, it begins to rotate and speed up normally and the
> humming
> stop. I switch off the motor, before it stops completely I switch the
> motor on
> and it speeds up normally. I did another test: I turn the switch on, as it
> starts humming, than I rotate opposite direction, it speeds up and again
> it
> stops humming. Can I assume the start capacitor is bad? If, so where can,
> I buy
> a replacement. The Capacitor is an old one; Manufacture Name": SF??? MIKE"
> Type
> H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC"
>
> Thanks for your help.
Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/
Left side of the page, enter "capacitor" in the search box
Third one down in the "AC Motor Start Capacitors", "110-125 VAC
Capicitors" is part number 7245K112.
The electrical characteristics are correct for use as a replacement
for your old capacitor, "Type H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC". Whether the
physical dimensions are correct is another question. If it will fit
within the "bump" on the motor, go for it.
I've ordered from McMaster-Carr many times. As I recall, the "Company
Name" field is not a required field, so if you don't want to make up a
company name, just do as I do and leave it blank. They aren't like
Grainger which does require a business name.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
"WD" wrote:
> My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last
> week it will
> not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on.
Two (2) possibilities.
1) Bad start capacitor.
2) Bad centrifugal switch.
Grainger can do a match up for a replacement capacitor.
Replace cap, if that doesn't solve problem, head to a motor repair
shop.
Replacing a switch is a total PITA.
My guess is you will spend 60%-70% of new motor cost to make repairs
with makes which makes repair a tough call.
YMMV
Lew
On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 23:23:43 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:
>Check the yellow pages for any motor repair shop in your area. You
>need to match the MFD and voltage ratings of the capacitor for
>performance reasons and the physical size for obvious reasons, so I'd
>advise taking the old cap with you when you go. Note that the voltage
>rating on the replacement can be higher than the original, but should
>not be lower.
>
>You could also do a Google search for online sources:
>
>If the link below is inoperative, do a search on (without the quotes)
>"motor start capacitor" and click on the "shopping" link.
>
>http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&as_q=start+capacitor+motor&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&num=10&lr=&as_filetype=&ft=i&as_sitesearch=&as_qdr=all&as_rights=&as_occt=any&cr=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&safe=images&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf&oi=property_suggestions&resnum=0&ct=property-revision&cd=1
>
Hi fellow Kansan, I brought this DP from KC to the Bay area in 06'. I did a
search in the Internet and could not find an exact specification as marked on
the old capacitor. Yellow page here in the SF Bay areas are practically useless
that is why I posted here looking for help. The above link still does not give
me the detail I need to buy the "exact or acceptable" capacitor. I hate to burn
up the motor since I took so much effort to moved it two thousand miles away.
Thanks
>Here's one that seems to be compatible with the electrical
>characteristics of your old capacitor, don't know about the physical
>size.
>
>http://www.drillspot.com/products/59585/Cge_61B7D220216NCGR_Motor_Start_Capacitor
>
>
>Tom Veatch
>Wichita, KS
>USA
On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 00:06:25 -0500, Ignoramus6193
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2008-09-22, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last week it will
>> not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on. I removed the motor from the
>> DP and powered up. It still will not rotate but starts to hum again. I rotate
>> the pulley manually, it begins to rotate and speed up normally and the humming
>> stop. I switch off the motor, before it stops completely I switch the motor on
>> and it speeds up normally. I did another test: I turn the switch on, as it
>> starts humming, than I rotate opposite direction, it speeds up and again it
>> stops humming. Can I assume the start capacitor is bad?
>
>Yes.
Thanks for your confirmation. Before I removed the motor from the DP I suspect
either, the bearing or carbon brush was bad. As I rotated the pulley it rotated
freely. I knew immediately it was the motor's start capacitor. I wish I had
tested my lightly used, new 8" jointer's motor in KC before I moved. It had the
same symptom. I sold the jointer for a song, and the buyer insisted I gave him
the old motor as the new motor (I kept the new Baldor motor). I bought with the
incorrect RPM. Thinking back, the buyer must be thinking how stupid I was.
>> If, so where can, I buy
>> a replacement. The Capacitor is an old one; Manufacture Name": SF??? MIKE" Type
>> H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC"
>
>You need to buy a replacement start capacitor of similar capacity. A
>few bucks plus shipping. They are plentiful, see McMaster catalog page
>925, for example. Item 7245K17 should work.
I should have thought of McMaster before I posted here. However, I would like to
know how do you buy from McMaster? They need company names etc, and I am
buying for myself? I went to page 925 in McMaster, but no part 7245K17.
Thanks for your help, any other source with a correct capacitor?
On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 23:13:05 GMT, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Two (2) possibilities.
>
>1) Bad start capacitor.
>
>2) Bad centrifugal switch.
>
>Grainger can do a match up for a replacement capacitor.
>
>Replace cap, if that doesn't solve problem, head to a motor repair
>shop.
>
>Replacing a switch is a total PITA.
>
>My guess is you will spend 60%-70% of new motor cost to make repairs
>with makes which makes repair a tough call.
>
>YMMV
>
>Lew
Thanks Lew, we have already established it is the start capacitor that is bad. I
will attempt to buy it from McMaster-Carr. Thanks again
>
On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 04:19:35 GMT, "Doug S" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Take it from an electric motor repairman - disconnect the capacitor and
>short the two wires together. If the capacitor is bad, the motor will start
>(it may start slowly, but it will start). If the motor still won't start,
>the problem is with the starting switch inside the motor.
Did exactly what you suggested. Yes, it start. I knew it was the capacitor, cuz
the switch was solid and sound. Thanks.
>
>If the capacitor is bad, you can replace it with anything near the same mfd
>value. A general ballpark for a 115 volt motor is 400 mfd per horsepower, so
>a 1/4 hp motor would be 100 mfd. For a 1/2 hp motor the value would be 200
>mfd. If you get too far away from the original value, you will lose starting
>torque in the motor, but for a drill press, that's not usually significant.
The motor is 1HP (original Delta), Type H 216 - 259 MFD 115 VAC.
From McMaster (Carr page 925) :
PN# 7245K114 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 340-552 Rating, 1-7/16" Case Diameter,
110-125 VAC
PN# 7245K112 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 216-389 Rating, 1-7/16" Case Diameter,
110-125 VAC
Look like PN# 7245K112 closest to my original capacity, what say you?
Thanks again.
>
>"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 23:23:43 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:
>>
>>>Check the yellow pages for any motor repair shop in your area. You
>>>need to match the MFD and voltage ratings of the capacitor for
>>>performance reasons and the physical size for obvious reasons, so I'd
>>>advise taking the old cap with you when you go. Note that the voltage
>>>rating on the replacement can be higher than the original, but should
>>>not be lower.
>>>
>>>You could also do a Google search for online sources:
>>>
>>>If the link below is inoperative, do a search on (without the quotes)
>>>"motor start capacitor" and click on the "shopping" link.
>>>
>>>http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&as_q=start+capacitor+motor&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&num=10&lr=&as_filetype=&ft=i&as_sitesearch=&as_qdr=all&as_rights=&as_occt=any&cr=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&safe=images&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf&oi=property_suggestions&resnum=0&ct=property-revision&cd=1
>>>
>>
>> Hi fellow Kansan, I brought this DP from KC to the Bay area in 06'. I did
>> a
>> search in the Internet and could not find an exact specification as marked
>> on
>> the old capacitor. Yellow page here in the SF Bay areas are practically
>> useless
>> that is why I posted here looking for help. The above link still does not
>> give
>> me the detail I need to buy the "exact or acceptable" capacitor. I hate to
>> burn
>> up the motor since I took so much effort to moved it two thousand miles
>> away.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>>>Here's one that seems to be compatible with the electrical
>>>characteristics of your old capacitor, don't know about the physical
>>>size.
>>>
>>>http://www.drillspot.com/products/59585/Cge_61B7D220216NCGR_Motor_Start_Capacitor
>>>
>>>
>>>Tom Veatch
>>>Wichita, KS
>>>USA
>
On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:20:18 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:
Yes, I double click the PN and it show the capacitor spec. I believe that's the
one I should buy.
I did not go to the trouble of disassemble the motor as suggest by some
woodworks here to find if the switch is the problem. Anyway the switch is
mounted externally. I just tested the capacitor by shorting it as suggested by
Doug. Thank you and everyone.
>If you click on (maybe double-click) the part number in the catalog
>listing, the data for that part number will appear in the pane on the
>left side of the browser screen. In that data will be a drop down box
>that allows selection of a specific capacity range. As I recall, one
>of the selections is the exact capacity you originally reported. When
>you select it, the capacitor part number will change to the one for
>that capacity.
>
>Tom Veatch
>Wichita, KS
>USA
On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 18:25:11 GMT, "Doug S" <[email protected]> wrote:
>You should use as close to the original value as possible for the best
>starting torque. Must be your motor is 3450 rpm. My original reply about
>motor capacitors was based on a 1725 rpm motor. For a 3450 rpm motor, the
>capacitors are usually around 200 mfd per horsepower, so that would fit with
>what you have. Like I said before, you don't have to be exact on the mfd
>value. Even brand new start capacitors usually have a 10 percent tolerance.
>If you put one in that has a large difference in mfd value, stick a piece of
>masking tape on the new capacitor and write the original mfd value on it in
>case you have to replace it again at some point.
I ordered the capacitor from McMaster-Carr this morning: PN# 7245K112 AC
Motor-Start Capacitor 216-259 Rating, 1-7/16" Case Diameter, 110-125 VAC.
It's exactly the same spec. but 1/16" larger in Diameter and the capacitor
casing is slightly larger anyway.
Thanks Doug, I really appreciate it.
>
>"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 04:19:35 GMT, "Doug S" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Take it from an electric motor repairman - disconnect the capacitor and
>>>short the two wires together. If the capacitor is bad, the motor will
>>>start
>>>(it may start slowly, but it will start). If the motor still won't start,
>>>the problem is with the starting switch inside the motor.
>>
>> Did exactly what you suggested. Yes, it start. I knew it was the
>> capacitor, cuz
>> the switch was solid and sound. Thanks.
>>>
>>>If the capacitor is bad, you can replace it with anything near the same
>>>mfd
>>>value. A general ballpark for a 115 volt motor is 400 mfd per horsepower,
>>>so
>>>a 1/4 hp motor would be 100 mfd. For a 1/2 hp motor the value would be 200
>>>mfd. If you get too far away from the original value, you will lose
>>>starting
>>>torque in the motor, but for a drill press, that's not usually
>>>significant.
>>
>> The motor is 1HP (original Delta), Type H 216 - 259 MFD 115 VAC.
>> From McMaster (Carr page 925) :
>>
>> PN# 7245K114 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 340-552 Rating, 1-7/16" Case
>> Diameter,
>> 110-125 VAC
>> PN# 7245K112 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 216-389 Rating, 1-7/16" Case
>> Diameter,
>> 110-125 VAC
>>
>> Look like PN# 7245K112 closest to my original capacity, what say you?
>>
>> Thanks again.
>>
>>
>>>
>>>"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 23:23:43 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Check the yellow pages for any motor repair shop in your area. You
>>>>>need to match the MFD and voltage ratings of the capacitor for
>>>>>performance reasons and the physical size for obvious reasons, so I'd
>>>>>advise taking the old cap with you when you go. Note that the voltage
>>>>>rating on the replacement can be higher than the original, but should
>>>>>not be lower.
>>>>>
>>>>>You could also do a Google search for online sources:
>>>>>
>>>>>If the link below is inoperative, do a search on (without the quotes)
>>>>>"motor start capacitor" and click on the "shopping" link.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&as_q=start+capacitor+motor&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&num=10&lr=&as_filetype=&ft=i&as_sitesearch=&as_qdr=all&as_rights=&as_occt=any&cr=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&safe=images&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf&oi=property_suggestions&resnum=0&ct=property-revision&cd=1
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi fellow Kansan, I brought this DP from KC to the Bay area in 06'. I
>>>> did
>>>> a
>>>> search in the Internet and could not find an exact specification as
>>>> marked
>>>> on
>>>> the old capacitor. Yellow page here in the SF Bay areas are practically
>>>> useless
>>>> that is why I posted here looking for help. The above link still does
>>>> not
>>>> give
>>>> me the detail I need to buy the "exact or acceptable" capacitor. I hate
>>>> to
>>>> burn
>>>> up the motor since I took so much effort to moved it two thousand miles
>>>> away.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks
>>>>
>>>>>Here's one that seems to be compatible with the electrical
>>>>>characteristics of your old capacitor, don't know about the physical
>>>>>size.
>>>>>
>>>>>http://www.drillspot.com/products/59585/Cge_61B7D220216NCGR_Motor_Start_Capacitor
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Tom Veatch
>>>>>Wichita, KS
>>>>>USA
>>>
>
On 2008-09-23, Tom Veatch <Tom> wrote:
> On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 07:56:18 -0500, Frank Boettcher
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>More often than not it is the centrifigual switch.
>
> I've not witnessed a large majority of all motor failures of this
> type, so I'm not qualified to dispute that statement. But I can say
> that I have experienced two motor failures that presented the reported
> symptoms. In both cases, the failure was due to a leaking and failed
> capacitor. The switch in both cases was defect free. But, perhaps my
> experience is atypical.
I had the same experience.
To test for centrifugal switch, disconnect starting capacitor and measure
voltage on capacitor leads during startup. (briefly, so as to not
smoke the motor). No voltage means bad centrifugal switch.
--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/
"EXT" wrote:
> Before you go purchasing a capacitor, if you are comfortable opening
> up motors, disassemble it and check out the starting switch, it may
> be stuck in the open position.
When you open up a motor, you are almost guaranteed to "brinell" the
ball bearings getting the motor open which is why most motor shops
replace the bearings when they open a motor.
Unless you have an arbor press, and the knowledge how to reassemble a
motor so you don't "brinell" the new bearings during assembly, opening
up a motor is to be avoided by the amatuer.
Lew
You should use as close to the original value as possible for the best
starting torque. Must be your motor is 3450 rpm. My original reply about
motor capacitors was based on a 1725 rpm motor. For a 3450 rpm motor, the
capacitors are usually around 200 mfd per horsepower, so that would fit with
what you have. Like I said before, you don't have to be exact on the mfd
value. Even brand new start capacitors usually have a 10 percent tolerance.
If you put one in that has a large difference in mfd value, stick a piece of
masking tape on the new capacitor and write the original mfd value on it in
case you have to replace it again at some point.
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 04:19:35 GMT, "Doug S" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Take it from an electric motor repairman - disconnect the capacitor and
>>short the two wires together. If the capacitor is bad, the motor will
>>start
>>(it may start slowly, but it will start). If the motor still won't start,
>>the problem is with the starting switch inside the motor.
>
> Did exactly what you suggested. Yes, it start. I knew it was the
> capacitor, cuz
> the switch was solid and sound. Thanks.
>>
>>If the capacitor is bad, you can replace it with anything near the same
>>mfd
>>value. A general ballpark for a 115 volt motor is 400 mfd per horsepower,
>>so
>>a 1/4 hp motor would be 100 mfd. For a 1/2 hp motor the value would be 200
>>mfd. If you get too far away from the original value, you will lose
>>starting
>>torque in the motor, but for a drill press, that's not usually
>>significant.
>
> The motor is 1HP (original Delta), Type H 216 - 259 MFD 115 VAC.
> From McMaster (Carr page 925) :
>
> PN# 7245K114 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 340-552 Rating, 1-7/16" Case
> Diameter,
> 110-125 VAC
> PN# 7245K112 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 216-389 Rating, 1-7/16" Case
> Diameter,
> 110-125 VAC
>
> Look like PN# 7245K112 closest to my original capacity, what say you?
>
> Thanks again.
>
>
>>
>>"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 23:23:43 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:
>>>
>>>>Check the yellow pages for any motor repair shop in your area. You
>>>>need to match the MFD and voltage ratings of the capacitor for
>>>>performance reasons and the physical size for obvious reasons, so I'd
>>>>advise taking the old cap with you when you go. Note that the voltage
>>>>rating on the replacement can be higher than the original, but should
>>>>not be lower.
>>>>
>>>>You could also do a Google search for online sources:
>>>>
>>>>If the link below is inoperative, do a search on (without the quotes)
>>>>"motor start capacitor" and click on the "shopping" link.
>>>>
>>>>http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&as_q=start+capacitor+motor&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&num=10&lr=&as_filetype=&ft=i&as_sitesearch=&as_qdr=all&as_rights=&as_occt=any&cr=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&safe=images&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf&oi=property_suggestions&resnum=0&ct=property-revision&cd=1
>>>>
>>>
>>> Hi fellow Kansan, I brought this DP from KC to the Bay area in 06'. I
>>> did
>>> a
>>> search in the Internet and could not find an exact specification as
>>> marked
>>> on
>>> the old capacitor. Yellow page here in the SF Bay areas are practically
>>> useless
>>> that is why I posted here looking for help. The above link still does
>>> not
>>> give
>>> me the detail I need to buy the "exact or acceptable" capacitor. I hate
>>> to
>>> burn
>>> up the motor since I took so much effort to moved it two thousand miles
>>> away.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>>>Here's one that seems to be compatible with the electrical
>>>>characteristics of your old capacitor, don't know about the physical
>>>>size.
>>>>
>>>>http://www.drillspot.com/products/59585/Cge_61B7D220216NCGR_Motor_Start_Capacitor
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Tom Veatch
>>>>Wichita, KS
>>>>USA
>>
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 07:56:18 -0500, Frank Boettcher
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>More often than not it is the centrifigual switch.
I've not witnessed a large majority of all motor failures of this
type, so I'm not qualified to dispute that statement. But I can say
that I have experienced two motor failures that presented the reported
symptoms. In both cases, the failure was due to a leaking and failed
capacitor. The switch in both cases was defect free. But, perhaps my
experience is atypical.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Sep 22, 11:26=A0am, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 00:06:25 -0500, Ignoramus6193
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >On 2008-09-22, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >> My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last week =
it will
> >> not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on. I removed the moto=
r from the
> >> DP and powered up. =A0It still will not rotate but starts to hum again=
. I rotate
> >> the pulley manually, it begins to rotate and speed up normally and the=
humming
> >> stop. I switch off the motor, before it stops completely I switch the =
motor on
> >> and it speeds up normally. I did another test: I turn the switch on, a=
s it
> >> starts humming, than I rotate opposite direction, it speeds up and aga=
in it
> >> stops humming. Can I assume the start capacitor is bad?
>
> >Yes.
>
> Thanks for your confirmation. Before I removed the motor from the DP I su=
spect
> either, the bearing or carbon brush was bad. As I rotated the pulley it r=
otated
> freely. I knew immediately it was the motor's start capacitor. I wish I h=
ad
> tested my lightly used, new 8" jointer's motor in KC before I moved. It h=
ad the
> same symptom. I sold the jointer for a song, and the buyer insisted I gav=
e him
> the old motor as the new motor (I kept the new Baldor motor). I bought wi=
th the
> incorrect RPM. Thinking back, the buyer must be thinking how stupid I was=
.
>
> >> If, so where can, I buy
> >> a replacement. The Capacitor is an old one; Manufacture Name": SF??? M=
IKE" Type
> >> H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC"
>
> >You need to buy a replacement start capacitor of similar capacity. A
> >few bucks plus shipping. They are plentiful, see McMaster catalog page
> >925, for example. Item 7245K17 should work.
>
> I should have thought of McMaster before I posted here. However, I would =
like to
> know how do you buy from McMaster? They need company names etc, and I am
> buying for myself? I went to page 925 in McMaster, but no part 7245K17.
>
> Thanks for your help, any other source with a correct capacitor?
Just make something up. Or you can do what I did and put in what I
will call my company if I ever decide to start one.
I've bought from them a number of times and they've shipped straight
to my house, no problems.
The only thing I don't like about their setup is that they don't tell
you shipping up front, so you have to check the invoice. It's very
reasonable, though. They're not the kind of company that will charge
you $10 to ship a $2, if it doesn't actually cost $10 to ship it.
-Nathan
On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 18:50:39 -0700, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 23:13:05 GMT, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Two (2) possibilities.
>>
>>1) Bad start capacitor.
>>
>>2) Bad centrifugal switch.
>>
>>Grainger can do a match up for a replacement capacitor.
>>
>>Replace cap, if that doesn't solve problem, head to a motor repair
>>shop.
>>
>>Replacing a switch is a total PITA.
>>
>>My guess is you will spend 60%-70% of new motor cost to make repairs
>>with makes which makes repair a tough call.
>>
>>YMMV
>>
>>Lew
>
>Thanks Lew, we have already established it is the start capacitor that is bad. I
>will attempt to buy it from McMaster-Carr. Thanks again
>>
And how did you determine this?
More often than not it is the centrifigual switch. May have dust in
the contacts. Supposed to be a rubber boot that makes it dust proof,
but, depending on the origin of the motor, maybe bad.
Does what you describe. Does not let the start circuit pull in.
Contacts are supposed to close when the RPM's run down, but dust
prohibits. When you spin it your are doing the same thing as the
start circuit does, that is, starting the motor.
Frank
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:08:00 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:
>On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 07:56:18 -0500, Frank Boettcher
><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>More often than not it is the centrifigual switch.
>
>I've not witnessed a large majority of all motor failures of this
>type, so I'm not qualified to dispute that statement. But I can say
>that I have experienced two motor failures that presented the reported
>symptoms. In both cases, the failure was due to a leaking and failed
>capacitor. The switch in both cases was defect free. But, perhaps my
>experience is atypical.
>
>Tom Veatch
>Wichita, KS
>USA
My experience may be slanted towards the difficulty in getting a true
dustproof switch in a motor that is truly going to be in a very dusty
environment.
It is a problem that had more warranty action.
However, you may be right in that if a switch is well designed and
well made, gone through many cycles then failure of the cap may be
just as prevelant.
Frank
Check the yellow pages for any motor repair shop in your area. You
need to match the MFD and voltage ratings of the capacitor for
performance reasons and the physical size for obvious reasons, so I'd
advise taking the old cap with you when you go. Note that the voltage
rating on the replacement can be higher than the original, but should
not be lower.
You could also do a Google search for online sources:
If the link below is inoperative, do a search on (without the quotes)
"motor start capacitor" and click on the "shopping" link.
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&as_q=start+capacitor+motor&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&num=10&lr=&as_filetype=&ft=i&as_sitesearch=&as_qdr=all&as_rights=&as_occt=any&cr=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&safe=images&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf&oi=property_suggestions&resnum=0&ct=property-revision&cd=1
Here's one that seems to be compatible with the electrical
characteristics of your old capacitor, don't know about the physical
size.
http://www.drillspot.com/products/59585/Cge_61B7D220216NCGR_Motor_Start_Capacitor
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
On Tue, 23 Sep 2008 22:13:28 -0700, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>PN# 7245K114 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 340-552 Rating, 1-7/16" Case Diameter,
>110-125 VAC
>PN# 7245K112 AC Motor-Start Capacitor 216-389 Rating, 1-7/16" Case Diameter,
>110-125 VAC
>
>Look like PN# 7245K112 closest to my original capacity, what say you?
>
>Thanks again.
>
>
If you click on (maybe double-click) the part number in the catalog
listing, the data for that part number will appear in the pane on the
left side of the browser screen. In that data will be a drop down box
that allows selection of a specific capacity range. As I recall, one
of the selections is the exact capacity you originally reported. When
you select it, the capacitor part number will change to the one for
that capacity.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
Take it from an electric motor repairman - disconnect the capacitor and
short the two wires together. If the capacitor is bad, the motor will start
(it may start slowly, but it will start). If the motor still won't start,
the problem is with the starting switch inside the motor.
If the capacitor is bad, you can replace it with anything near the same mfd
value. A general ballpark for a 115 volt motor is 400 mfd per horsepower, so
a 1/4 hp motor would be 100 mfd. For a 1/2 hp motor the value would be 200
mfd. If you get too far away from the original value, you will lose starting
torque in the motor, but for a drill press, that's not usually significant.
"WD" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 23:23:43 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:
>
>>Check the yellow pages for any motor repair shop in your area. You
>>need to match the MFD and voltage ratings of the capacitor for
>>performance reasons and the physical size for obvious reasons, so I'd
>>advise taking the old cap with you when you go. Note that the voltage
>>rating on the replacement can be higher than the original, but should
>>not be lower.
>>
>>You could also do a Google search for online sources:
>>
>>If the link below is inoperative, do a search on (without the quotes)
>>"motor start capacitor" and click on the "shopping" link.
>>
>>http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&as_q=start+capacitor+motor&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&num=10&lr=&as_filetype=&ft=i&as_sitesearch=&as_qdr=all&as_rights=&as_occt=any&cr=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&safe=images&oe=UTF-8&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf&oi=property_suggestions&resnum=0&ct=property-revision&cd=1
>>
>
> Hi fellow Kansan, I brought this DP from KC to the Bay area in 06'. I did
> a
> search in the Internet and could not find an exact specification as marked
> on
> the old capacitor. Yellow page here in the SF Bay areas are practically
> useless
> that is why I posted here looking for help. The above link still does not
> give
> me the detail I need to buy the "exact or acceptable" capacitor. I hate to
> burn
> up the motor since I took so much effort to moved it two thousand miles
> away.
>
> Thanks
>
>>Here's one that seems to be compatible with the electrical
>>characteristics of your old capacitor, don't know about the physical
>>size.
>>
>>http://www.drillspot.com/products/59585/Cge_61B7D220216NCGR_Motor_Start_Capacitor
>>
>>
>>Tom Veatch
>>Wichita, KS
>>USA
On 2008-09-22, WD <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> My vintage 1HP Delta Drill Press was working normally until last week it will
> not rotate but hums when I turned on the switch on. I removed the motor from the
> DP and powered up. It still will not rotate but starts to hum again. I rotate
> the pulley manually, it begins to rotate and speed up normally and the humming
> stop. I switch off the motor, before it stops completely I switch the motor on
> and it speeds up normally. I did another test: I turn the switch on, as it
> starts humming, than I rotate opposite direction, it speeds up and again it
> stops humming. Can I assume the start capacitor is bad?
Yes.
> If, so where can, I buy
> a replacement. The Capacitor is an old one; Manufacture Name": SF??? MIKE" Type
> H, 210 259 MFD. 115VAC"
You need to buy a replacement start capacitor of similar capacity. A
few bucks plus shipping. They are plentiful, see McMaster catalog page
925, for example. Item 7245K17 should work.
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