On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 22:33:54 -0500, "Steve Andrejat"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>My wife brought home a lacewood box that was all scratched up. I took off
>the old lacquer finish and sanded it, but even before I removed the lacquer,
>the grain didn't POP. Will BLO and shellac or lacquer work on lacewood?
Lacewood is funny stuff. The angle from which you see it makes
a big difference. I made picture frames and can see grain really
popping only on two parallel sides at a time. Still nice though.
I tested some strips before finishing the frames. Plain
shellac looked as good as plain Watco or Watco covered with shellac. I
also tested whether sandpapering or scraping looked better, and
couldn't decide.
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Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
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{remove curly brackets for email}
Tomeshew <[email protected]> wrote:
: steve wrote:>My wife brought home a lacewood box that was all scratched up. I
: took off
:>the old lacquer finish and sanded it, but even before I removed the lacquer,
:>the grain didn't POP.
Some highly figured woods can have a 3D appearance if finished correctly.
Oil will penetrate into the wood and give it greater depth. A nice
topcoat of shellac will then really make it pop.
-- Andy Barss
On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 06:13:20 GMT,
[email protected] (Charles Bragg) wrote:
> Lacewood is funny stuff. The angle from which you see it makes
>a big difference. I made picture frames and can see grain really
>popping only on two parallel sides at a time. Still nice though.
>
> I tested some strips before finishing the frames. Plain
>shellac looked as good as plain Watco or Watco covered with shellac. I
>also tested whether sandpapering or scraping looked better, and
>couldn't decide.
>
Couldnt agree more, Charles. I find its the type of wood that can best
be used only in parallel situations. As far as scraping......i found
it very difficult to scrape but got good results going to 320 grit.
Tung seemed to work the best for me.
TomL